rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

What a badazz you are...
dang, I loved the amps upside down...now THAT opens up a lot of possibilities for getting more trunk room. Trunk space is my primary concern...next is the ability to really have some bass. Although I find myself turning it down a lot more as I get older.

rich20730

Okay, you guys motivated me to clean mine up. I put in a false floor today because the amps looked terrible sitting out in the middle of the trunk. It really was much easier than I thought it would be.

Here are some pics from the build:

The blue stuff is underlayment that I had lying around from when I did my floors. It worked really well because it was easy to bend and shape around the curves. After cutting the underlayment, I traced it onto some cardboard and then onto some 1/4" MDF.

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

WOW... Very impressive! +1000 in improved eye candy! Trunk is clean as hell now! ...DAYM!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Wow, that is very nice...maybe I should do something similar...and all you guys are NOT giving up your spares, right?!?!

niebur3

Looks really good rich!!!!


I did ! Spare tire sitting nicely in the garage!

rich20730

Thanks guys! I appreciate the kind words. Spare tire is still in there.

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

I am with you Jerry... I think I may go this route also. Trading the weight and no biggie if the spare is needed. I will just go get it or have someone bring it to me I never "TRAVEL" in my TL anyways, I rent a beater! So I am never that far or outta reach to do so. But...at the same time. I only have 1 amp mounting to the back since my AC Matrix with be mounted/tucked away up front as remember you recommended...correct me if I am wrong. So it will only be 1 device to mount somewhere. But the amp is just about 3/4 the size of my arm...LOL!

UA6Momo

Looks really good. Any pointer you could throw my way to getting it done?

rich20730

Sure! I mostly just made it up as I went along, but this is how I did it:

Materials I used:
- (2) 4'x2' pieces of 1/4" MDF from Home Depot - $6.99 ea. (You could use 1/2" if you wanted it to be a little sturdier)
- Some leftover 3/4" MDF scraps from my baffle build
- Can of spray adhesive - $6.99
- Black fabric from local fabric store - $6.99/yard
- 2 small hinges - $3
- Glue, screws, etc.

Don't ask me why everything was $6.99.

The most difficult part was tracing the outline of the edge of the trunk and it wasn't very difficult at all. Just find something that is flexible that you can press up against the side of the trunk and cut with an exacto knife or draw on it with a sharpie and cut with scissors. I used underlayment because I had some sitting in my garage and that's the first thing I saw. After I cut the underlayment I traced it onto some cardboard and trimmed a little here and there to make sure it fit. Then I traced it onto the mdf and cut it with the dremel. I'm sure you could use a jigsaw or whatever you used to cut your baffle if you don't have a dremel. I was able to cut both outside pieces out of one 4'x2' piece of MDF. I made sure that the straight portion of each outside piece was just wide enough so that the 2' middle piece would fit without cutting.

Then I cut the middle piece so it was the same length as the other two pieces and cut it in half so i could attach the hinges.

The 3/4" MDF pieces on the bottom are 3 inches high (high enough to clear the amps, but not too high to eat up extra trunk space) I then attached those pieces about a half inch or so beyond the edge so the middle board could rest on top of them. I attached the first few with screws but found it was easier to just glue them. The smaller spacers up top are shorter since the trunk kind of slopes upward and one of the side spacers is also shorter since it rests on the navigation dvd drive.

After that, I just attached the fabric with staples and spray glue and that was it.

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

good shyt! ^


...U know, Don from SDS never responded with a returned email re: deadening since I emailed him days ago Not good already c/s

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I think he might be away right now. I swear he said something like that not but a few days ago in a thread on DIYMA. I'd try him again and if not, I'll e-mail him or send him a PM for you on DIYMA and tell him to contact you.

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

Cool, that nice of ya. Because as u can see on my PROGRESS thread, I am pretty much done with all I can conjure up at this moment with the exception of the audio. And I just went to the storage yesterday and pulled it all out and its sitting in my trunk now with my MDF sitting it my living room against the wall I really need to get going and deaden my trunk to start the project...MY DAYS ARE ONLY SO COUNTED... Approx 2.5-3 weeks at MOST!

One more thing... do u know from your past order, How much SDS Tiles I will need to hush up the trunk area?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Here's my first order:

26 CLD Tiles @ 2.45 = $63.70
1 54"X41" sheet MLV @ 29.62 = 29.62
2 sheets 1/8" CCF @ 14.95 = 29.90
3 Velcro Strips, adh. 2 sides, 2-pack @ 3.25 = 9.75
1 8 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement @ 8.50 = 8.50

Sub Total: $141.47
Shipping: 28.01
Total: $169.48


I then ordered more 10 CLD tiles to deaden my door panels. So 36 CLD tiles total and basically right at $200 for everything. That's deadening the entire door (inside and out), plastic door panels, top and bottom sides of rear deck, trunk lid, various places in trunk. If you're just doing the rear deck I'd say about 6-7 should be plenty, but they're so cheap...why not order more! lol.


I was feeling extremely lazy and didn't want to get the velcro, adhesive, etc at Lowes/Home Depot or any shop so I just got it from him. Now that stuff is just if you're doing the MLV/CCF, not the CLD tiles. You could save $20 or so just by getting your own spray adhesive and heavy-duty velcro I would assume.

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

I am ONLY DOING THE TRUNK AREA. I have my doors on lock with the CASCADE complete door kit + the door speaker kit from JERRY (just the same as he shows installed on his build thread on DIYMA.)

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Lol sorry. I knew that. No joke, I think I'm helping about 10 different people on here right now with their setups so I get confused from time to time.

For just the trunk area, I'd pick up 20. I find it's good to have a little left over so when you put stuff back together and listen and a pesky rattle comes through, you can make it go away and not have to wait on another order. I still have 4 CLD tiles just waiting for that day I hear something. I HATE rattles. They put me in a bad mood

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

Rattles are the NORM round here...But yeah, I don't like em either. I like solid sound coming from a car with no extra effects.

Another ? ... When doing a IB, sealing off any pressured "AIR" leaking areas is key, Correct? What exactly is used (material wise) to seal corners or cracks etc of these troubled areas and any specic area to pay attention to? For example, The IB panel. I knwo its not going to lay flat and seal tight with the metal curvature and the MDF. So how do you close those gaps? And where else in the bare metal trunk to I concider before laying down SDS Tiles and installing the OEM carpet panels when finished?

...Hope that all makes sense I hope my DUMB questions help other since we are learning together.

rich20730

If you're not already set on buying the CLD tiles from SDS, and especially if you want some deadener quickly, you could buy a bulk pack of Dynamat Extreme (36 sq ft) from Amazon for $136.99. It's actually quite a bit cheaper per square foot than the SDS tiles. Sign up for a 1-month free trial of amazon prime and you'll get free two-day shipping or next-day shipping for $3.99. It'll be more than you'll ever need, but having some extra can come in handy (see below).

As for the IB install:

The main problem areas will be in the bottom right and left corners of the baffle. In order to get mine to fit in through the trunk side, I had to leave the edges straight. This left some pretty gaping holes on those bottom corners. I fixed this problem by cutting a couple triangular pieces of MDF and screwing them onto the baffle from the other side.

After I had already finished my baffle, I looked back at Jerry's install and it appears that he was able to shape the baffle so it covered the bottom corners much better. It looks like he may have taken the braces off and put the baffle in from the cabin side in order to do this. Might be worth asking.

Now as for the leaks, one of the reasons I suggested buying the bulk pack is that you can use the extra Dynamat to seal up all your leaks. Some may say that this is a waste of CLD, but for me it was totally worth it. It was a piece of cake, took barely any time at all, and my trunk is pretty much air tight. Other options I've heard for sealing are expanding foam, weatherstripping, fiberglass insulation, t-shirts, old socks... Dynamat just seemed like the cleanest, easiest, most straightforward way to do it for me.

Here's another look at mine. The MDF on the outside of the braces are the triangles I was talking about:


I also sealed it from the back side:



The Dynamat comes in handy sealing the 1,000 holes in the underside of the rear deck:

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

Very nice and informative tip & info. Much appreciated my man U pretty much cleared up some "Do and I don't know WTF to do's" for me ...lol

Also, yes... Jerry did install his from the cabin as well as the other IB installers. Which takes care of the "TRIANGLE" open on both gaps on both r/l gaps of the braces. FYI food for thought.

rich20730

Did a false wall today:





I cut several holes in the board, but the material still vibrates like crazy when I turn it up. I need to spend some time listening with it in and with it out to see how much, if any, affect it has on the sound.

UA6Momo

Very nice. I'm tempted to ask you for templates (with compensation to you of course )

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

Hmmm...just seems to be so enclosed now. But job is freekin KLEEN dude! Nice wk!

Now, I have a ? that has been some what a conversation pc on my progress thread as of late. BATTERY is the issue. I am due for a new battery soon and since I will be adding a my IB system soon I decided to go with a OPTIMA (Red Top). I went with a RT since since its recommended if installing a system of 1000+w use a YELLOW. My system in not that high on the wattage and plus, I have read bad reviews and experiences with the YT. I for one have owned 3 RT with never a failed moment but this is the first time I am doing a real audio system in any of my rides. Any comments/experiences/feedback.

And yes, I am aware for $40-50 cheaper I could have gone with a DIE HARD "Gold" or (forgot the maker) "PLATINUM" is the series that are very good batteries located at the local COSCO, SAMS, SEARS and local Auto Parts stores/dealer...But optima looks so much better when the hood is popped open... lol. Looks has nothing to do with the inq tho.

rich20730

PM me your address and I'll mail them to you. Don't worry about paying me. They're pretty light and shouldn't cost much to ship. Maybe you can just pass them on if someone else needs them

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^Wow dude...that's a really nice offer.

I hate cars

Oh wow, you should have gone with the Platinum. I've run over 10 Redtops over the years. Half of them went bad in the first year and they suck if you want to run the system with the engine off. The one I had in my TL went almost a year before it got hard to start and I had at most 5 minutes of runtime on the system before it wouldn't start. With the same sized Platinum I've gone almost 30 minutes with the engine off and it starts right up no problem.

I would literally buy any $60-$80 battery over an Optima, they're that bad. They were good at one time before they changed ownership and they're living off of that old reputation. The one I bought for the GN in '95 lasted 7 years and never did go bad, I gave it to my sister.

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

maybe I will just CANCEL my order today...That is not a problem. Its on back order anyways. But this is why I asked. I want something that works and works with TL's since all cars are not the same regardless of what ppl believe. I have heard all I need to hear from TL owners and complaining how OPTIMAS suck! I ran with OPTIMAS in all my race inspired or built cars and never any issues. Then again, this was yrs ago as u mentioned. Seems something changed along the way regarding quality of the OPTIMA batteries....as for that PLATINUM, what make ?

I hate cars

Sears Diehard Platinum. It's $206, 4yr free replacement, 100month pro-rated, probably the last battery you'll ever have to buy. It's an AGM battery, a rebadged Odyssey for about $100 cheaper under the Diehard name.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Or you can pick up the Interstate Megatron Plus for about $110. Solid specs on it for the price

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^Wow, that's great to know. I might go that route next time around.

rich20730

Trunk Monkey, if you bothered to read his question you would know that's not an appropriate choice for him, even if it would save him a few bucks. I'd recommend the Die Hard
Bumble Bee:

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

the pimpslaps are flying rampant on az today...

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

UPDATE: Put together INSTALL KIT ~ 25ft 4gauge wire, remote turn on wire, fuse & fuse holder on its way. THANKS JERRY @ HDMA ...again

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

this friggin install better happen!

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

...and speaker wires Movin along

tell me about it homie

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, I DO look on the bright side, if you didn't exist...I WOULD be the worst most fickle changing mind all the time acurazine member! You make me look normal!

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

lol...Awwwww so sweet. STFO!

JayVee

iTrader: (21)

*STFU* oops...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I was like stfOPPPP?

lazyboykhoa

you get what you pay for, just remember that. i kept everything in my car stock bc its already a good sound system. the only thing i did was added a sub, which was a 12" JL audio with JL ported box. i personally think that it only sounds good when the volume was at its max. when i had the volume midway all i can hear is BOOM BOOM BOOM so i would have to manually go in and lower the settings for my sub so i can hear the words clearly. keep in mind that if you dont change out the head unit then the sound quality can only go so far regardless of what you change. i would recommend you at least getting a knob to turn up or down so you dont have to keep going in the head unit and adjusting it manually everytime. my next set up will prob be in a sealed box maybe 1 or 2 10" and make sure you dynomat your license plate bc of the rattle

niebur3

^^This is completely false. The HU in the TL's deliver a very flat signal if the signal is taken before the factory amplifier. You won't hear much if any difference between this factory HU and an aftermarket one.