Question about my trunk for a sub
No...it makes it a shitty box. What makes a box tuned in the 40's good for music?
Just a thought, it is labeled a "high output" box. To me that means SPL first, SQ second.
I've always thought of the W7 as primarily an SQ sub that will get fairly loud. I'm sad to be leaving the JL family and it's doubtful I'll ever spend that much on a sub again.
I've always thought of the W7 as primarily an SQ sub that will get fairly loud. I'm sad to be leaving the JL family and it's doubtful I'll ever spend that much on a sub again.
This is the box I built. I just wish I would have taken the time to measure the height...I got a little excited and just started building haha. It doesn't go all the way up to the seats b/c it hits the rear deck....though I think I might have something under my carpet with the spare b/c it has a slight slant to it. Might have to build another or do a little fabricating, prolly the latter.
Net volume: 3cuft
Tuning: 30Hz
Port Area: 45(15"Hx3"W)
Dimensions:16.5H"X20D"x28W"
5cu.ft though....
. That's a little over board don't ya think? I mean the recommendations are 1.75cu.ft give or take a few....but not 3.25cu.ft. lol. What gives?
I think he means that a box tuned to 40hz for daily won't do anything but be boomy and sound...meh. Your SQ will likely be degraded also. That's more of an SPL/comp. tune than a quality daily tune that will sound good and have solid SQ while still having plenty of SPL and hitting the lows.
Never heard the w7 sealed....how does it change from ported? I know the obvious answers but in your opinion...?
Net volume: 3cuft
Tuning: 30Hz
Port Area: 45(15"Hx3"W)
Dimensions:16.5H"X20D"x28W"
5cu.ft though....
. That's a little over board don't ya think? I mean the recommendations are 1.75cu.ft give or take a few....but not 3.25cu.ft. lol. What gives?I think he means that a box tuned to 40hz for daily won't do anything but be boomy and sound...meh. Your SQ will likely be degraded also. That's more of an SPL/comp. tune than a quality daily tune that will sound good and have solid SQ while still having plenty of SPL and hitting the lows.
Never heard the w7 sealed....how does it change from ported? I know the obvious answers but in your opinion...?
Lol. I've never been so happy with a sub as I am now with the W6 in IB form. But right now what I'm looking for is something I won't want to change for many years. I need a little more output. Installing the second 12 would probably do it but I don't want to be in the same boat a year from now. I bought the W6s back when I had a ton of money to blow. I wasn't saying they are overpriced, just that I can't justify the original purchase price I paid back around '04 anymore. But $330 shipped to my door for a pair of 15s is awesome. I almost want to buy two more.
I just love the IB setup because it goes incredibly low but sounds natural, not boomy or muddy. Plus I get 90% of my trunk back and the power requirements go way down.
They should be in hopefully in the next week or so. I'm going to be subless until them since my W6s are sold.
I got an rsx for a weekend car and sort of considering IB now for the TL. Need to shave weight and help the electrical out. Might use 2 15" jbl gti's or 3 of the 10's
http://www.jbl.com/EN-US/Products/Pa...=W10GTI%20MKII
Leaning toward 3 since it'll give me a 1 ohm load.
http://www.jbl.com/EN-US/Products/Pa...=W10GTI%20MKII
Leaning toward 3 since it'll give me a 1 ohm load.
What you are saying is like saying a Ferrari Enzo is a shitty car because it would be a chore to drive it every day and has really only one purpose and that is on the track. Is the Enzo a shitty car?
Have you looked at how the H.O. box is put together? It is about as far from what I would consider a shitty box as they come.
I get you don't like how it sounds and that is fine, I really don't either, but it is not a shitty box.
IMO they are just more accurate, especially in the very low end, vs. other subs. You can discern the resonance from a upright bass and a big kettle drum where on other subs it is just movement at that frequency.
To me it is really the ultimate sq sub that gets mistaken for an SPL sub because it just happens to have incredible output. But to me it sounds better when it is more controlled.
I like them when they are crossed over pretty low, 55Hz-ish (give or take for the application).
IMO they are just more accurate, especially in the very low end, vs. other subs. You can discern the resonance from a upright bass and a big kettle drum where on other subs it is just movement at that frequency.
To me it is really the ultimate sq sub that gets mistaken for an SPL sub because it just happens to have incredible output. But to me it sounds better when it is more controlled.
IMO they are just more accurate, especially in the very low end, vs. other subs. You can discern the resonance from a upright bass and a big kettle drum where on other subs it is just movement at that frequency.
To me it is really the ultimate sq sub that gets mistaken for an SPL sub because it just happens to have incredible output. But to me it sounds better when it is more controlled.
55hz is low? That's high as hell!! That'd be a strickly SPL box...maybe we're on different pages here about ported boxes.
I agree with you on the w7 getting mistaken for an spl sub. I think the w6 is more inclined for spl and you can get 2 to have more cone area for the price of one w7. I still think JL is extremely overpriced but that's neither here nor there
55hz is low? That's high as hell!! That'd be a strickly SPL box...maybe we're on different pages here about ported boxes.
I agree with you on the w7 getting mistaken for an spl sub. I think the w6 is more inclined for spl and you can get 2 to have more cone area for the price of one w7. I still think JL is extremely overpriced but that's neither here nor there
I agree with you on the w7 getting mistaken for an spl sub. I think the w6 is more inclined for spl and you can get 2 to have more cone area for the price of one w7. I still think JL is extremely overpriced but that's neither here nor there
Uh huh. $700 oil changes every couple months, $6k brake pads every 6, god knows what tires would cost, and heaven forbid you need to buy groceries for more than 1 meal for 1 person at a time. That is TOTALLY my idea of a car that I would like to drive every day 

Yes, you most likely are. Perhaps others will have some ideas on how not to, but I have no idea how to leave it the way that it is.
I pull about 1440 (to the amp) to a sub and 250 (to the amp) for some components and the voltage will drop a little bit only when they are excessively loud - meaning over 1100w to the sub, or about 1200W draw. With the lights and seat heaters on, the voltage will drop a few turns lower at about 1000W to the sub. At normal listening levels, and even quite a ways beyond, the stock stuff is enough for my setup... all that I did was the big 3 with zero.
Write them and ask how efficient the amp is at 1 ohm so that you can plan accordingly if you need to upgrade.
I pull about 1440 (to the amp) to a sub and 250 (to the amp) for some components and the voltage will drop a little bit only when they are excessively loud - meaning over 1100w to the sub, or about 1200W draw. With the lights and seat heaters on, the voltage will drop a few turns lower at about 1000W to the sub. At normal listening levels, and even quite a ways beyond, the stock stuff is enough for my setup... all that I did was the big 3 with zero.
Write them and ask how efficient the amp is at 1 ohm so that you can plan accordingly if you need to upgrade.
Yes, you most likely are. Perhaps others will have some ideas on how not to, but I have no idea how to leave it the way that it is.
I pull about 1440 (to the amp) to a sub and 250 (to the amp) for some components and the voltage will drop a little bit only when they are excessively loud - meaning over 1100w to the sub, or about 1200W draw. With the lights and seat heaters on, the voltage will drop a few turns lower at about 1000W to the sub. At normal listening levels, and even quite a ways beyond, the stock stuff is enough for my setup... all that I did was the big 3 with zero.
Write them and ask how efficient the amp is at 1 ohm so that you can plan accordingly if you need to upgrade.
I pull about 1440 (to the amp) to a sub and 250 (to the amp) for some components and the voltage will drop a little bit only when they are excessively loud - meaning over 1100w to the sub, or about 1200W draw. With the lights and seat heaters on, the voltage will drop a few turns lower at about 1000W to the sub. At normal listening levels, and even quite a ways beyond, the stock stuff is enough for my setup... all that I did was the big 3 with zero.
Write them and ask how efficient the amp is at 1 ohm so that you can plan accordingly if you need to upgrade.
It will fit for sure. My buddy has 2 12w7 in the vw bug. Let me tell you his trunk was so tiny i told his there is no way he will get them to fit.
his installer is my good buddy got it in there somehow. My that system hit HARD!!!!!!
his installer is my good buddy got it in there somehow. My that system hit HARD!!!!!!
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