princelybug's New System
#1
princelybug's New System
Here's my setup:
Up Front: Polk Audio db6501 components
Center Channel: Polk Audio db351
Rear: Polk Audio db651 coaxials
Amps: Alpine PDX 4.150 (4-channel)
Alpine PDX 1.600 (1-channel)
Sub: JL Audio 10W6v2-D4
Sub-Enclosure: uncald4 Custom Sub-Enclosure
In-line fuse holder:
D/S Polk Audio tweeter (1):
D/S Polk Audio tweeter (2):
D/S Polk Audio tweeter (3):
P/S Pok Audio tweeter (1):
P/S Polk Audio tweeter (2):
Amp-Mount setup (1):
Amp-Mount setup (2):
Sub/Enclosure:
Full Trunk View:
First, I apologize for the sub-par pic quality, as always.
My ultimate goal was to maximize trunk space. As you can see, I still have almost all of my trunk available for storage, and I even have my pass-through accessible. I couldn't think of any other way to get what I got, and at the same time have more trunk space than I do now.
A word of thanks to msala524 for sub-enclosure mounting advice, to Travis (uncald4) for being patient by answering all of my questions and making a great sub-enclosure.
But a special word of thanks to my dear friend Mike (King of Pain), who's numerous setups you've all seen on here, for taking the time to help me with this install. I couldn't have done it without you, brother!
The system bumps real nice, and I can finally hear my music over my AEM CAI, ATLP J-Pipe, ATLP Race-Pipe, and GReddy Evo II cat-back.
Let me know what you think!
Up Front: Polk Audio db6501 components
Center Channel: Polk Audio db351
Rear: Polk Audio db651 coaxials
Amps: Alpine PDX 4.150 (4-channel)
Alpine PDX 1.600 (1-channel)
Sub: JL Audio 10W6v2-D4
Sub-Enclosure: uncald4 Custom Sub-Enclosure
In-line fuse holder:
D/S Polk Audio tweeter (1):
D/S Polk Audio tweeter (2):
D/S Polk Audio tweeter (3):
P/S Pok Audio tweeter (1):
P/S Polk Audio tweeter (2):
Amp-Mount setup (1):
Amp-Mount setup (2):
Sub/Enclosure:
Full Trunk View:
First, I apologize for the sub-par pic quality, as always.
My ultimate goal was to maximize trunk space. As you can see, I still have almost all of my trunk available for storage, and I even have my pass-through accessible. I couldn't think of any other way to get what I got, and at the same time have more trunk space than I do now.
A word of thanks to msala524 for sub-enclosure mounting advice, to Travis (uncald4) for being patient by answering all of my questions and making a great sub-enclosure.
But a special word of thanks to my dear friend Mike (King of Pain), who's numerous setups you've all seen on here, for taking the time to help me with this install. I couldn't have done it without you, brother!
The system bumps real nice, and I can finally hear my music over my AEM CAI, ATLP J-Pipe, ATLP Race-Pipe, and GReddy Evo II cat-back.
Let me know what you think!
#4
Is your E30 gonna be ready for next week?
For all parts, including wiring, screws, fuses, etc., I got everything for around $1,650, without labor/miscellaneous other costs. But I did a LOT of driving around to find the best deals, and spent a lot of time on research. So add to that number the cost of several hundred miles of driving, and for the time spent on research, whatever it's worth for you!
#8
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
Thanks. I actually only have the 2 tweeters that came with the components up front. I just wanted to show separate pictures of those on the d/s and p/s.
Is your E30 gonna be ready for next week?
For all parts, including wiring, screws, fuses, etc., I got everything for around $1,650, without labor/miscellaneous other costs. But I did a LOT of driving around to find the best deals, and spent a lot of time on research. So add to that number the cost of several hundred miles of driving, and for the time spent on research, whatever it's worth for you!
Is your E30 gonna be ready for next week?
For all parts, including wiring, screws, fuses, etc., I got everything for around $1,650, without labor/miscellaneous other costs. But I did a LOT of driving around to find the best deals, and spent a lot of time on research. So add to that number the cost of several hundred miles of driving, and for the time spent on research, whatever it's worth for you!
Did you disable your factory woofer? It would help a tone if you unhook it, and uninstall it. The factory sub uses the rear deck as a baffle, which works great, but it rattles all of the seat belts restraints on there. Also, if you open up that hole, it will help your sub out too.
#9
Team Owner
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
Posts: 36,545
Received 6,470 Likes
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5,162 Posts
Princely...beautiful set up. I recognized ucald4's sub. I bet it sounds fantastic.
2009 Kansas City Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/midwest-312/kansas-city-2009-spring-all-acura-meet-may-17th-12pm-%40-jay-wolfe-acura-714994/
2009 Kansas City Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/midwest-312/kansas-city-2009-spring-all-acura-meet-may-17th-12pm-%40-jay-wolfe-acura-714994/
#10
Burning Brakes
Thanks Scott,
I'm glad to help out a brother. I think we met your goals. Maximize your trunk space and add some sonic punch to your audio. It's great that you're still able to use your trunk tray and have access to your spare.
Those PDX amps look great in your trunk
I'm particularly proud of the way the tweeters came out.
Here's some pics of the evolution of the tweeters
I'm glad to help out a brother. I think we met your goals. Maximize your trunk space and add some sonic punch to your audio. It's great that you're still able to use your trunk tray and have access to your spare.
Those PDX amps look great in your trunk
I'm particularly proud of the way the tweeters came out.
Here's some pics of the evolution of the tweeters
#12
Bone stock tl-s
iTrader: (1)
Thanks Scott,
I'm glad to help out a brother. I think we met your goals. Maximize your trunk space and add some sonic punch to your audio. It's great that you're still able to use your trunk tray and have access to your spare.
Those PDX amps look great in your trunk
I'm particularly proud of the way the tweeters came out.
Here's some pics of the evolution of the tweeters
I'm glad to help out a brother. I think we met your goals. Maximize your trunk space and add some sonic punch to your audio. It's great that you're still able to use your trunk tray and have access to your spare.
Those PDX amps look great in your trunk
I'm particularly proud of the way the tweeters came out.
Here's some pics of the evolution of the tweeters
#16
Probably NOT. I'm so bummed, I've been waiting on a damn head gasket for over a month. We'll see though.
Did you disable your factory woofer? It would help a tone if you unhook it, and uninstall it. The factory sub uses the rear deck as a baffle, which works great, but it rattles all of the seat belts restraints on there. Also, if you open up that hole, it will help your sub out too.
Did you disable your factory woofer? It would help a tone if you unhook it, and uninstall it. The factory sub uses the rear deck as a baffle, which works great, but it rattles all of the seat belts restraints on there. Also, if you open up that hole, it will help your sub out too.
Princely...beautiful set up. I recognized ucald4's sub. I bet it sounds fantastic.
2009 Kansas City Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714994
2009 Kansas City Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714994
#19
Unregistered User
iTrader: (5)
i know i should search more but my eyes hurt from reading threads upon threads only to get lost. i fully understand how to use a loc for a sub amp considering the wiring will go straight from the amp in the trunk to the subs in the trunk. my concern is how exactly do you go from the loc back to all of the door speakers and tweeters? do you wire directly to the amp (in the trunk) back through the car to all of the highs? or is there some simple adaptation that i'm missing?? i've had this problem throughout the years with having to go from the headunit to the amp (usually somewhere far) and then back towards the headunit and through the factory openings for the highs. someone please elaborate for me!
#20
i know i should search more but my eyes hurt from reading threads upon threads only to get lost. i fully understand how to use a loc for a sub amp considering the wiring will go straight from the amp in the trunk to the subs in the trunk. my concern is how exactly do you go from the loc back to all of the door speakers and tweeters? do you wire directly to the amp (in the trunk) back through the car to all of the highs? or is there some simple adaptation that i'm missing?? i've had this problem throughout the years with having to go from the headunit to the amp (usually somewhere far) and then back towards the headunit and through the factory openings for the highs. someone please elaborate for me!
#22
Unregistered User
iTrader: (5)
My thing is, I can go straight to a highs amp from the 360 loc and then route back throughout the entire car to all of the speakers, OR, use the navi headunit's power and possibly add amplified power? (this is where I'm stuck).
Btw princelybug, your set up is very clean. Does it sound muffled with the snowboard opening closed?
Unfortunately, I won't have much of a trunk at all after I construct this monster of a sub box I've been graphing.
#25
I actually would have ideally taken pics of the entire process, but we just wanted to get this thing DONE, lol.
I'm actually good at it but I'm just wondering if there is a trick that I've been missing over the years.
My thing is, I can go straight to a highs amp from the 360 loc and then route back throughout the entire car to all of the speakers, OR, use the navi headunit's power and possibly add amplified power? (this is where I'm stuck).
Btw princelybug, your set up is very clean. Does it sound muffled with the snowboard opening closed?
Unfortunately, I won't have much of a trunk at all after I construct this monster of a sub box I've been graphing.
My thing is, I can go straight to a highs amp from the 360 loc and then route back throughout the entire car to all of the speakers, OR, use the navi headunit's power and possibly add amplified power? (this is where I'm stuck).
Btw princelybug, your set up is very clean. Does it sound muffled with the snowboard opening closed?
Unfortunately, I won't have much of a trunk at all after I construct this monster of a sub box I've been graphing.
#26
Driven to Perfection
that is NICE!!! Looks pretty much like I want to do to mine...
a few questions though - so you left the center channel amplified by the stock amp? Do you use the simulated 5.1 to listen? If so, is the center channel loud / clean enough off the stock gear?
what kind of music do you listen to on that system? How would you describe the sound of the Polk db gear? What made you choose the polk over what ever other options you considered?
a few questions though - so you left the center channel amplified by the stock amp? Do you use the simulated 5.1 to listen? If so, is the center channel loud / clean enough off the stock gear?
what kind of music do you listen to on that system? How would you describe the sound of the Polk db gear? What made you choose the polk over what ever other options you considered?
#27
i know i should search more but my eyes hurt from reading threads upon threads only to get lost. i fully understand how to use a loc for a sub amp considering the wiring will go straight from the amp in the trunk to the subs in the trunk. my concern is how exactly do you go from the loc back to all of the door speakers and tweeters? do you wire directly to the amp (in the trunk) back through the car to all of the highs? or is there some simple adaptation that i'm missing?? i've had this problem throughout the years with having to go from the headunit to the amp (usually somewhere far) and then back towards the headunit and through the factory openings for the highs. someone please elaborate for me!
#29
that is NICE!!! Looks pretty much like I want to do to mine...
a few questions though - so you left the center channel amplified by the stock amp? Do you use the simulated 5.1 to listen? If so, is the center channel loud / clean enough off the stock gear?
what kind of music do you listen to on that system? How would you describe the sound of the Polk db gear? What made you choose the polk over what ever other options you considered?
a few questions though - so you left the center channel amplified by the stock amp? Do you use the simulated 5.1 to listen? If so, is the center channel loud / clean enough off the stock gear?
what kind of music do you listen to on that system? How would you describe the sound of the Polk db gear? What made you choose the polk over what ever other options you considered?
But, as to the reason I chose the Polks, is first, because of price. They were a good "bang for the buck" in terms of cost versus performance. Second, the speaker size/magnet size were actually more similar than others to the OEM speaker size (this probably contributes to them not being able to handle the lower frequencies as well as some other higher end components), so no major modification was necessary to install them. Some of the higher end components are bigger, and you run into certain issues (window interference/the amount they'll stick out of the door panel).
Overall, as I've mentioned, I'm pleased with my setup.
#31
Unregistered User
iTrader: (5)
Me either.
So, the factory wiring to the door/deck speakers (from the headunit) was basically unplugged. The signal came directly from the amp (probably in the trunk) routed back to each speaker?
Seems tedious. I've never amplified highs, besides using like an aftermarket headunit having more wattage per channel. I would just shove a pair of tweeters next to the stock 4x8 or whatever was there, tie it into that same pos/neg signal, and call it a day.
Wasn't the clearest or cleanest sounding thing, but it kept up with the monstrous bass which was done with no loose ends.
I think my solution would be to mount an amp close to the headunit and take the leads going to all the high speakers from the headunit. That way, I only have to route the amp's wiring from the loc. Seems simple now that I processed the thought.
So, the factory wiring to the door/deck speakers (from the headunit) was basically unplugged. The signal came directly from the amp (probably in the trunk) routed back to each speaker?
Seems tedious. I've never amplified highs, besides using like an aftermarket headunit having more wattage per channel. I would just shove a pair of tweeters next to the stock 4x8 or whatever was there, tie it into that same pos/neg signal, and call it a day.
Wasn't the clearest or cleanest sounding thing, but it kept up with the monstrous bass which was done with no loose ends.
I think my solution would be to mount an amp close to the headunit and take the leads going to all the high speakers from the headunit. That way, I only have to route the amp's wiring from the loc. Seems simple now that I processed the thought.
#33
Instructor
i know i should search more but my eyes hurt from reading threads upon threads only to get lost. i fully understand how to use a loc for a sub amp considering the wiring will go straight from the amp in the trunk to the subs in the trunk. my concern is how exactly do you go from the loc back to all of the door speakers and tweeters? do you wire directly to the amp (in the trunk) back through the car to all of the highs? or is there some simple adaptation that i'm missing?? i've had this problem throughout the years with having to go from the headunit to the amp (usually somewhere far) and then back towards the headunit and through the factory openings for the highs. someone please elaborate for me!