Here's my setup:

Up Front: Polk Audio db6501 components
Center Channel: Polk Audio db351
Rear: Polk Audio db651 coaxials
Amps: Alpine PDX 4.150 (4-channel)
Alpine PDX 1.600 (1-channel)
Sub: JL Audio 10W6v2-D4
Sub-Enclosure: uncald4 Custom Sub-Enclosure

In-line fuse holder:



D/S Polk Audio tweeter (1):



D/S Polk Audio tweeter (2):



D/S Polk Audio tweeter (3):



P/S Pok Audio tweeter (1):



P/S Polk Audio tweeter (2):



Amp-Mount setup (1):



Amp-Mount setup (2):



Sub/Enclosure:



Full Trunk View:



First, I apologize for the sub-par pic quality, as always.

My ultimate goal was to maximize trunk space. As you can see, I still have almost all of my trunk available for storage, and I even have my pass-through accessible. I couldn't think of any other way to get what I got, and at the same time have more trunk space than I do now.

A word of thanks to msala524 for sub-enclosure mounting advice, to Travis (uncald4) for being patient by answering all of my questions and making a great sub-enclosure.

But a special word of thanks to my dear friend Mike (King of Pain), who's numerous setups you've all seen on here, for taking the time to help me with this install. I couldn't have done it without you, brother!

The system bumps real nice, and I can finally hear my music over my AEM CAI, ATLP J-Pipe, ATLP Race-Pipe, and GReddy Evo II cat-back.

Let me know what you think!

 

Nice setup! Only thing I'm confused about is the tweeters. Do you have 4 tweeters up front? There is a set of D/S, and a set of P/S.

I just got my sub enclosure made for my e30, two 8" ported. =)

 

Nice and clean! How much if you don't mind me asking? I may want to upgrade my system with a new sub, speakers, and some amps. Don't know about tweeters though.

 

Thanks. I actually only have the 2 tweeters that came with the components up front. I just wanted to show separate pictures of those on the d/s and p/s.

Is your E30 gonna be ready for next week?

For all parts, including wiring, screws, fuses, etc., I got everything for around $1,650, without labor/miscellaneous other costs. But I did a LOT of driving around to find the best deals, and spent a lot of time on research. So add to that number the cost of several hundred miles of driving, and for the time spent on research, whatever it's worth for you!

 

nice setup...top notch work!

 

Very nice! Those are some sexy amps you got there

 

Thanks!

Thanks!

 

Probably NOT. I'm so bummed, I've been waiting on a damn head gasket for over a month. We'll see though.

Did you disable your factory woofer? It would help a tone if you unhook it, and uninstall it. The factory sub uses the rear deck as a baffle, which works great, but it rattles all of the seat belts restraints on there. Also, if you open up that hole, it will help your sub out too.

 

Princely...beautiful set up. I recognized ucald4's sub. I bet it sounds fantastic.




2009 Kansas City Acura Meet-May 17th

https://acurazine.com/forums/midwest-312/kansas-city-2009-spring-all-acura-meet-may-17th-12pm-%40-jay-wolfe-acura-714994/

 

Thanks Scott,

I'm glad to help out a brother. I think we met your goals. Maximize your trunk space and add some sonic punch to your audio. It's great that you're still able to use your trunk tray and have access to your spare.

Those PDX amps look great in your trunk

I'm particularly proud of the way the tweeters came out.

Here's some pics of the evolution of the tweeters

 

sweet set up Scott, very clean. i bet it bumps. what did you use to process the sound from the stock stereo? loc's?

 

nice work on the tweeters KOP. clean. i cant believe i havent upgraded my sounds yet. i have all new equipment collecting dust in my closet. you guys are inspiring me now. lazy time is over!

 

LOCs for now. I had a set of Navone LOCs sitting around.

We can upgrade it later to a 3sixty if he wants.

 

looks clean!
audio is last for me though.

 

Very nice setup, I like how the truck can be used as if nothing was even there.

 

So you're not gonna go? I'm going for sure this Saturday. Regarding the sub, yes, I took the factory sub completely out, and there's a hole underneath the stock sub grill. Also, I now ride with the pass-through open, just as the pics show.

Thanks! Yes, it does.

Thanks. Yup, Navone LOC's.

 

Thanks.

 

Get to it! In time for the cruise.

 

i know i should search more but my eyes hurt from reading threads upon threads only to get lost. i fully understand how to use a loc for a sub amp considering the wiring will go straight from the amp in the trunk to the subs in the trunk. my concern is how exactly do you go from the loc back to all of the door speakers and tweeters? do you wire directly to the amp (in the trunk) back through the car to all of the highs? or is there some simple adaptation that i'm missing?? i've had this problem throughout the years with having to go from the headunit to the amp (usually somewhere far) and then back towards the headunit and through the factory openings for the highs. someone please elaborate for me!

 

Rob, sorry, wiring is definitely NOT my thing. Maybe someone else will chime in?

 

man you making me wanna take pictures and show off my system too.

 

I'm actually good at it but I'm just wondering if there is a trick that I've been missing over the years.

My thing is, I can go straight to a highs amp from the 360 loc and then route back throughout the entire car to all of the speakers, OR, use the navi headunit's power and possibly add amplified power? (this is where I'm stuck).

Btw princelybug, your set up is very clean. Does it sound muffled with the snowboard opening closed?
Unfortunately, I won't have much of a trunk at all after I construct this monster of a sub box I've been graphing.

 

i'm almost positive there is a thread for just that.

 

sweetness!

 

I actually would have ideally taken pics of the entire process, but we just wanted to get this thing DONE, lol.

Thanks. Actually, it doesn't sound muffled at all. The only thing that the opening impedes is the sound from the sub in the trunk. Even if I have it closed, the place where stock sub would usually sit is open, so I'm good either way. Removing the stock sub is HIGHLY recommended if you're going to have subs in the trunk.

 

that is NICE!!! Looks pretty much like I want to do to mine...

a few questions though - so you left the center channel amplified by the stock amp? Do you use the simulated 5.1 to listen? If so, is the center channel loud / clean enough off the stock gear?

what kind of music do you listen to on that system? How would you describe the sound of the Polk db gear? What made you choose the polk over what ever other options you considered?

 

I wired my system head unit--> 3sixty.-->amp---> door/deck speakers. Not sure how else you would do it.

 

Love it! Very clean. That's the type of install I'm hoping for when I ship my enclosures all over the world.

 

Thanks, Matt. I did leave the center channel to be amplified by the stock amp. I didn't use anything to listen/tune it. I do listen to DVD-A's commonly. I've found that the center channel is definitely underpowered in comparison to the aftermarket components, but I leave it turned up all the way to compensate as much as I can. The Polks do best with higher end frequencies. You can't play anything above mid-bass on the components. They can't handle it as well as some higher end components. Also, the tweeters that come with the components are very tinny. So, I had to turn the gains down a bit to adjust that.

But, as to the reason I chose the Polks, is first, because of price. They were a good "bang for the buck" in terms of cost versus performance. Second, the speaker size/magnet size were actually more similar than others to the OEM speaker size (this probably contributes to them not being able to handle the lower frequencies as well as some other higher end components), so no major modification was necessary to install them. Some of the higher end components are bigger, and you run into certain issues (window interference/the amount they'll stick out of the door panel).

Overall, as I've mentioned, I'm pleased with my setup.

 

you can get all the signal wires from the amp instead of the deck. just a fyi

 

Me either.

So, the factory wiring to the door/deck speakers (from the headunit) was basically unplugged. The signal came directly from the amp (probably in the trunk) routed back to each speaker?

Seems tedious. I've never amplified highs, besides using like an aftermarket headunit having more wattage per channel. I would just shove a pair of tweeters next to the stock 4x8 or whatever was there, tie it into that same pos/neg signal, and call it a day.
Wasn't the clearest or cleanest sounding thing, but it kept up with the monstrous bass which was done with no loose ends.

I think my solution would be to mount an amp close to the headunit and take the leads going to all the high speakers from the headunit. That way, I only have to route the amp's wiring from the loc. Seems simple now that I processed the thought.

 

Looks great!

 

There's a thread around here which will show you how to use existing wiring in the car to pull your audio back to the front. I don't know where it is off hand but it's there and would make wiring simpler if you didn't want to pull new wire for everything.

 

Very Clean install... Love the PDX Amps

 

Thanks, bro!

 

Hey princely what did you mount that board to that the amps are mounted to?

 

The board is mounted to the back seat frame. We took the back seats out, and bolted the board onto the metal frame behind the back seat.

 

Thanks....I like the setup i think i will be doing a similar thing....I just bought the uncald box from someone in bp it wasnt you was it?

 

Nope. I plan on keeping mine!

 

COPYCAT! haha, looks amazing though. Props!