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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 11:48 AM
  #1  
lembowski's Avatar
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Powered Sub suggestions

I read the thread of the Infinity Basslink, but no one ever stated if it sounded good in the TL. I am just looking for alittle extra sound, not a whole lot. Does anyone have any suggestions on a Powered Subwoofer? (Bazooka, Infinity, Kenwood, Alpine) Pro's or con's on any of these would help. Also when you installed one does the HD have pre-outs for the rca's and is there somewhere to hook a remote wire on the back of the Navi system? How did you guys run the wires?

Thanks in advance, just bought my 2004 TL a-spec on Monday and lovin it!!

Also I have the Satin Silver Metallic color has anyone seen this color with the mirrored style tinting? How did it look?
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 03:37 PM
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I considered this solution myself, but decided against it for the following reasons.

1 - These units work best in hatchbacks, trucks, and SUV's that don't have a seperate trunk.

2 - The price is almost as expensive as a seperate sub/amp setup.

3 - The installation is just as difficult as a sub/amp setup.

4 - I don't think the bass output would come close to a sub/amp setup.

As you can probably guess, I opted for a sub/amp combo package.

You can read about my install here:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127880

I tapped into the factory sub wires for the input to my amp. My MTX has a speaker level input with auto turn-on.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 03:57 PM
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1. true, but i've been in cars with the kappa sub and it sounds really good----if you are looking for the "bass shaking the car next to you" kind of thing then it's not going to happen. But it does thump even in a trunk

2. I don't know depends on your sub set up, but i'd say 170 shipped on ebay for a 200 RMS 10 inch sub isn't bad at all with infinity quality.

3. It's a little more simple considering the amp is built into the sub already and less time consuming

4. See number 1

Basically it's personal preference, i think i'll prob go with a basslink because i don't care for overpowering bass, just more than our stock 8 inch puts out. From what i've read on here from other members, people have still had to turn down the basslink because it overpowers the factory speakers sometimes, so sounds like it'll do the trick
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 04:02 PM
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Whatever you choose, it will be better than the stock sub. I've had transistor radios with more bass and less rattle. Let me know how the Basslink works out. PS - Keep in mind that there are 2 different models.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 04:27 PM
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I had titanium tint on my car and it messed with my navigation signal. Having a metalic tint can mess up the signal. I had to get the tint taken off and redue it with a non metallic tint.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Spider0079
I had titanium tint on my car and it messed with my navigation signal. Having a metalic tint can mess up the signal. I had to get the tint taken off and redue it with a non metallic tint.
What the hell does that have to do with adding a sub?
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 04:37 PM
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lembowski's Avatar
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I see that there is a Baslink and a Basslink X. I am assuming that the basslink X is better right?

jjh1234 was it easy to tap into the wiring for the oem sub? Does this let it turn off power like a remote wire? So does doing this replace running rca's and remote up to head unit? So basically saying that all I would have to do is run power, ground and speaker wire from rear sub?

Thanks guys.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 05:20 PM
  #8  
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Bazooka is offering a model w/ a 200 watt amp now,I'm looking into this but may end up getting amp/sub combo cause the install seems to be just as hard for both..........Plus the powered units are better if you lease your car
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by jjh1234
What the hell does that have to do with adding a sub?


HAHA i was reading that and thinking the same thing...talk about out of left field
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #10  
lembowski's Avatar
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Originally Posted by jjh1234
What the hell does that have to do with adding a sub?
He was refering to the second part of my question
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:34 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by lembowski
I see that there is a Baslink and a Basslink X. I am assuming that the basslink X is better right?

jjh1234 was it easy to tap into the wiring for the oem sub? Does this let it turn off power like a remote wire? So does doing this replace running rca's and remote up to head unit? So basically saying that all I would have to do is run power, ground and speaker wire from rear sub?

Thanks guys.
No they are the same thing. The X is clear. Also you do NOT need any adapters to hook it up. All you need to do is disconnect the stock 8" sub and tap into those wires and extend them to the basslink. It will accept line level inputs. Hope that helps. If you need a remote wire the closest one would be on the back of the navi dvd rom unit if you have it. For power you should be ok with a 10 gauge amp kit.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:38 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by lembowski
I see that there is a Baslink and a Basslink X. I am assuming that the basslink X is better right?

jjh1234 was it easy to tap into the wiring for the oem sub? Does this let it turn off power like a remote wire? So does doing this replace running rca's and remote up to head unit? So basically saying that all I would have to do is run power, ground and speaker wire from rear sub?

Thanks guys.

Correct, you don't need any RCA's if your amp has a speaker level input. Tapping into the oem sub wiring was the easy part. Running the power from the battery was a little more challenging. I elected to poke a hole in the grommet for the factory harness at the firewall. I had to remove the bottom of the back seat as well. The bottom of the back seat was a little tricky because there in one hidden bolt on the passengers side between the bottom of the back seat and the back of the back seat. I was able to tuck the wire under all the trim for the door sills.

All you need to do is tap into the oem sub wires, run a positive cable to the battery, find a good ground in the trunk and presto!
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 09:00 PM
  #13  
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From: MD
Originally Posted by jjh1234
Correct, you don't need any RCA's if your amp has a speaker level input. Tapping into the oem sub wiring was the easy part. Running the power from the battery was a little more challenging. I elected to poke a hole in the grommet for the factory harness at the firewall. I had to remove the bottom of the back seat as well. The bottom of the back seat was a little tricky because there in one hidden bolt on the passengers side between the bottom of the back seat and the back of the back seat. I was able to tuck the wire under all the trim for the door sills.

All you need to do is tap into the oem sub wires, run a positive cable to the battery, find a good ground in the trunk and presto!
There is a hole in the firewall smack dap in the middle already drilled out from the factory. Just incase you do any more installation.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 09:18 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by tfe691
There is a hole in the firewall smack dap in the middle already drilled out from the factory. Just incase you do any more installation.
I heard there was one, but I could not find it. I was also told that if I had an AT, there would be an unused hole for the clutch. Guess I did not look hard enough.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 01:56 PM
  #15  
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Note that for the metallic tinting, the GPS antenna is located on/in the parcel shelf behind and to the left of the subwoofer. It is not on the roof.
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