enzyme

Began the idea of 8" drop-in sub, now dismissed the thought. I have this amp that I was going to replace the stock with (because its fairly low profile and could probably fit in the same spot).

Now my questions are:

a) If I rid of the stock 8", how big / powerful of a sub can I run with this amp? Can it still be more than enough for a 10 or 12"?

(or possibly keep the stock 8" on that new amp, and add another mono for the new sub? )


b) Am told to match up RMS specs. I'm not sure I know what that mean exactly. What spec should I look for in the sub?



Amp Specs: Cerwin Vega Stealth 800.5

General Features:

• 5-Channel Full Range STEALTH Series Class D Car Amplifier
• RMS Power Rating:
  • 4 ohms: 100 watts x 4 chan. + 200 watts x 1 chan.
  • 2 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan. + 300 watts x 1 chan.
• Full range international rectifier chipset
• Pulse Width Modulated MOSFET power supply
• Wired remote bass level control included
• LED power (green) and protect (red) indicators
• Variable Bass Boost (0 to +12 dB bass boost at 50 Hz)
• Soft start turn-on
• 5/4/3 channel operation
• 3-way protection circuitry (thermal, overload, and speaker short protection)
• Heavy duty aluminum alloy heat-sink for extreme heat dissipation
• Nickel-plated RCA level inputs
• Nickel-plated screw terminals
• Variable low-pass filter (50-250 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
• 4 gauge power and ground wiring is required for installation. Contact us for information regarding a discount on select amplifier kits from our website when purchased together with this amplifier.
• Dimensions: 7"W x 10-9/10"D x 1-8/10"H

Speedy3

I'm interested in how this turns out.

Christopher Dasconio

You want to get a sub that will be 75-150% of your RMS.

So if it is a 4 ohm sub you want to get a 150-275w sub.

This is a not a very powerful amp you have, but it should do.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

^ I don't completely agree with that. When I researched, most items said to have the amp rms greater than the sub rms. It said to think of the amp like an atm. Better to have more cash in the bank so that when you withdraw you don't overdraw. 150% seems like a lot. I would do 75-100 % for the sub compared to the amp

Christopher Dasconio

You are correct. I mixed them up, I will edit it for correctness.

Christopher Dasconio

It wont let me edit it for some reason, so yes amp 75-150% of sub

SocomM4

iTrader: (2)

Matching.
My amp is a kicker cx1200.1, 1200w@2ohm
. 600w@4ohm

So I'm running a CompVX DVC2ohm at a 4 ohm load.
That gives me the ability to match wattage of the sub (750wRms) by dialing up the gain a bit. Also, it makes it easy to add a second sub, just get another DVC2ohm, and wire them to a final impedance of 2ohms to get the max from my amp. Again, dialing up the gain to match the requirements of the subs. In a Spl 2.45 cu ft box tuned at 36hz.

More amp than you need, is easier to deal with than not enough amp.

enzyme

So according to what you guys have said, I think I am better off just replacing the stock amp with the one I have to power the stock speakers and sub. From my readings, the stock amp really sucks. That alone should yield some improvements no? Then I can just add box+sub on a mono amp later.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

this is perfect for you

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...review-946500/

looking back i might have just done to save me all the install time i put into my system haha.

Christopher Dasconio

If youre thinking of doing that, then get a Jesse Amp and add a sub after, your system will sound awesome.