Opinions... 2-W6s in miracle box vs 2 15" IDQ Free air
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Opinions... 2-W6s in miracle box vs 2 15" IDQ Free air
I'm interested in saving weight and getting my trunk space back. Thinking very seriously about ditching the 2- 12"W6s in the bandpass for two 15" IDQs freeair.
I'm tired of having to take the subs out to track the car due to the weight and I want the trunk space back. I've heard the IDQs in a free air configuration properly setup and they're awesome. I doubt they will go as loud but they sound great. They take up very little trunk space and the only weight is the weight of the drivers, no box. I figure I'll lose close to 100lbs since the IDQs are considerably lighter.
I don't want to make the wrong decision, I'm very happy with the sound I have now and the performance of the system is great especially considering it requires very little power to get loud. But lately the lack of a trunk and the weight have been getting to me more and more. Also, since it's no parked outside all the time I'm always worried about theft. With the IDQs I could hide them so when the trunk is open it would look like you're looking at the back of the rear seat.
Here's the only downside and I doubt anyone can help me on here. I don't know how much sound quality if any is lost with the rear seat up. The one I listened to was Neel's at Acurafest and it was with the seats folded down the whole time. This is the number one issue that's holding me up.
The second large issue is the bandpass solved the deck and trunk rattling issues. I don't know if I want to go back to that again.
I'm tired of having to take the subs out to track the car due to the weight and I want the trunk space back. I've heard the IDQs in a free air configuration properly setup and they're awesome. I doubt they will go as loud but they sound great. They take up very little trunk space and the only weight is the weight of the drivers, no box. I figure I'll lose close to 100lbs since the IDQs are considerably lighter.
I don't want to make the wrong decision, I'm very happy with the sound I have now and the performance of the system is great especially considering it requires very little power to get loud. But lately the lack of a trunk and the weight have been getting to me more and more. Also, since it's no parked outside all the time I'm always worried about theft. With the IDQs I could hide them so when the trunk is open it would look like you're looking at the back of the rear seat.
Here's the only downside and I doubt anyone can help me on here. I don't know how much sound quality if any is lost with the rear seat up. The one I listened to was Neel's at Acurafest and it was with the seats folded down the whole time. This is the number one issue that's holding me up.
The second large issue is the bandpass solved the deck and trunk rattling issues. I don't know if I want to go back to that again.
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I've never taken on much of anything in car audio. Sealing everything off will be a challenge for me. One thing that will happen for sure is I will make a removable sub board so if I choose to swap subs it will be as easy as swapping a board. I'm sure there's a proper name for this...
I really like the bandpass setup and have no plans of getting rid of the enclosure. I just can't stand having no trunk, I installed the subs the same day I bought the car in Dec of '05.
#6
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I'm planning on making a false wall in the trunk right behind the subs. That way if you open the trunk it will look like a stock full sized trunk. I would only lose about 7" of trunk space and I should have amazing sound quality. I'm tired of worrying if my system is still going to be there in the morning.
#7
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
That would be ok but I don't like taking the system out especially with the large bandpass box. I absolutely love the sound quality and the efficiency of this system but I need the trunk space. I could always take the subs out when I go on trips but I would rather have the bass especially on trips. My other option would be to run just one W6 in a bandpass which would be more than loud enough. Running them in an IB setup will require two of them to get as loud as one in the bandpass setup.
I'm planning on making a false wall in the trunk right behind the subs. That way if you open the trunk it will look like a stock full sized trunk. I would only lose about 7" of trunk space and I should have amazing sound quality. I'm tired of worrying if my system is still going to be there in the morning.
I'm planning on making a false wall in the trunk right behind the subs. That way if you open the trunk it will look like a stock full sized trunk. I would only lose about 7" of trunk space and I should have amazing sound quality. I'm tired of worrying if my system is still going to be there in the morning.
as far as trunk space, i can still open the spare tire well cover FULLY, aka the box does not rest past that hinge at all, and even then i also have a little storage on the side of it, cause of it being a little narrower, which is a perfect spot for my little emergency bag (aka jumper cables etc.,etc.)
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#8
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I've run the same subs in a sealed, ported, and now bandpass. The sealed was the smallest and it fit right up to the seats but I still want that portion of the trunk back. The bandpass is just so efficient that it requires very little power but it takes up more room.
My goal is a stock looking trunk with no visible amps, wires, or subs. The only downside is I'm going to lose output. I have the gains cut back so far right now that I'm sure I can make up for it but I'm going to be pushing the subs and electrical system harder.
I'll probably pull the bandpass out on Thursday and make a real quick IB setup and use expanding foam just to have the subs for the next couple weeks. Then pull it out some time in January when I already have the rear shelf out for the shocks. I'm sure it will sound terrible in the weeks before I can go back and fiberglass and seal all of the leaks but it should be better than no subs.
My goal is a stock looking trunk with no visible amps, wires, or subs. The only downside is I'm going to lose output. I have the gains cut back so far right now that I'm sure I can make up for it but I'm going to be pushing the subs and electrical system harder.
I'll probably pull the bandpass out on Thursday and make a real quick IB setup and use expanding foam just to have the subs for the next couple weeks. Then pull it out some time in January when I already have the rear shelf out for the shocks. I'm sure it will sound terrible in the weeks before I can go back and fiberglass and seal all of the leaks but it should be better than no subs.
#9
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
I've run the same subs in a sealed, ported, and now bandpass. The sealed was the smallest and it fit right up to the seats but I still want that portion of the trunk back. The bandpass is just so efficient that it requires very little power but it takes up more room.
My goal is a stock looking trunk with no visible amps, wires, or subs. The only downside is I'm going to lose output. I have the gains cut back so far right now that I'm sure I can make up for it but I'm going to be pushing the subs and electrical system harder.
I'll probably pull the bandpass out on Thursday and make a real quick IB setup and use expanding foam just to have the subs for the next couple weeks. Then pull it out some time in January when I already have the rear shelf out for the shocks. I'm sure it will sound terrible in the weeks before I can go back and fiberglass and seal all of the leaks but it should be better than no subs.
My goal is a stock looking trunk with no visible amps, wires, or subs. The only downside is I'm going to lose output. I have the gains cut back so far right now that I'm sure I can make up for it but I'm going to be pushing the subs and electrical system harder.
I'll probably pull the bandpass out on Thursday and make a real quick IB setup and use expanding foam just to have the subs for the next couple weeks. Then pull it out some time in January when I already have the rear shelf out for the shocks. I'm sure it will sound terrible in the weeks before I can go back and fiberglass and seal all of the leaks but it should be better than no subs.
but yeah the stock appering part i think is going to be the issue, not too hard, but you got to make sure everything fits up in there though
#10
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Hopefully it works. I'm a little out of my comfort zone on car audio. I'm learning quick but my wood working skills are terrible and all I can do now is search on the internet for what not to do but the rest is trial and error.
#13
Team Owner
Thread Starter
The TL will never be quick in a straight line so I made it corner. The double wishbone suspension and geometry of the TL is amazing for a mass produced street car. For instance, on the GN I relocated the front suspension mounting points, completely changed the geometry and used aftermarket upper and lower control arms, ball joints, modded frame location points, spindles, etc along with springs, shocks, and swaybars to get it to handle like a modern car. I won't even mention how much money is in the suspension alone. The TL only requires a set of springs, shocks, and swaybars to handle with the big boys. There are not issues with the basic setup. I've learned that I can't leave anything alone. The TL was supposed to be a bone stock reliable daily driver. I think if I had bought a Geo Metro instead of the TL it would still be just as modded. If you told me when I bought the TL that I would have done this many mods and taken it to the track I would have laughed.
Last edited by I hate cars; 12-19-2010 at 12:50 PM.
#14
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
I don't have a dedicated track vehicle, that's not as fun IMO. A quick street car that also does well on the track is very fun. The GN was my daily driver up until I got the TL. That is what I'm the most proud of, it's pretty quick and it looks nearly stock, sounds nearly stock, and drives like a stock one. I won't take it to a road course because the brakes are undersized, the live axle likes to hop over bumps, the body twists too much on good tire, and it just doesn't do that well. It's not as bad as it looks around the corners but the TL blows it away through anything but perfectly smooth corners. I'm at the point with that car that if I make it corner better I'm going to take away from it's straight line performance and since it will never corner that well, I had to choose straight line.
The TL will never be quick in a straight line so I made it corner. The double wishbone suspension and geometry of the TL is amazing for a mass produced street car. For instance, on the GN I relocated the front suspension mounting points, completely changed the geometry and used aftermarket upper and lower control arms, ball joints, modded frame location points, spindles, etc along with springs, shocks, and swaybars to get it to handle like a modern car. I won't even mention how much money is in the suspension alone. The TL only requires a set of springs, shocks, and swaybars to handle with the big boys. There are not issues with the basic setup. I've learned that I can't leave anything alone. The TL was supposed to be a bone stock reliable daily driver. I think if I had bought a Geo Metro instead of the TL it would still be just as modded. If you told me when I bought the TL that I would have done this many mods and taken it to the track I would have laughed.
The TL will never be quick in a straight line so I made it corner. The double wishbone suspension and geometry of the TL is amazing for a mass produced street car. For instance, on the GN I relocated the front suspension mounting points, completely changed the geometry and used aftermarket upper and lower control arms, ball joints, modded frame location points, spindles, etc along with springs, shocks, and swaybars to get it to handle like a modern car. I won't even mention how much money is in the suspension alone. The TL only requires a set of springs, shocks, and swaybars to handle with the big boys. There are not issues with the basic setup. I've learned that I can't leave anything alone. The TL was supposed to be a bone stock reliable daily driver. I think if I had bought a Geo Metro instead of the TL it would still be just as modded. If you told me when I bought the TL that I would have done this many mods and taken it to the track I would have laughed.
but yes the TL does handle awesome with a few upgrades, but as said not the fastest in a straight line (but you can more then make up for that in the corners though)
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