triax37

iTrader: (1)

First, you need to start Dashcam when the car is in reverse. Only when the car is in reverse will the camera receive power, and the Android ROM will be able to sense there is an image to display. If it doesn't sense anything for 5(?) seconds, it will give up.

Second, I've attached an image of the "USB-ROM" setting that shows what's connected to the USB hub. You'll notice that the camera is not showing - I don't know why this is the case, but it works fine. I'm including the image to show that the Nexus knows certain items are installed at the hub - hopefully if you see something similar, it means that the connections are all powered and it's just a matter of getting the Dashcam app to work correctly. Note: I'm using an older ROM, so this could look different than yours. But go to "Settings" and then "USB Host" and you'll get an idea:



For the poster a few above - this is how I've plugged the Nexus 7 into it's own power port at the bottom right of the dash console, and the hub is powered by the power source in the glove box.

vnphatbuddha

This is how it looks in power management of timur's latest kernel. It's detected in usb host as unknown manufacture

And this is what happened when dashcam app is opened with car in reverse gear

I even actually solder the leads of the camera power plug into the reverse light wires so its definitely not a connection problem. My nexus 7 is the 2nd gen 2013, not that it will matter right?

bellassaiw10

Has anyone had issues with their usb hub and connection to a laptop? Nexus recognizes the hub and my phone if I plug it in but doesn't pick up my Mac !? Not sure what it could be replaced he cables and still doesn't work

triax37

iTrader: (1)

Shoot - that sucks it's not working, when it seems like you've done everything right. I hesitate to even suggest this - have you considered the EasyCap route instead of the FebOn? I know you probably paid some money for the FebOn, but it sounds like the newer ROMs support the EasyCap STK1160 chipset as seen in this video (click on the youtube link to read the details in his comments):

vnphatbuddha

Funny that you mentioned about the easycap with STK1160 chipset. I actually spent a great amount of time yesterday searching for one and found one at my local electronics store. Just put it to the test this morning with no result. Same thing as the febon, no video feed. Everything is wired and hooked up correctly with the right hardware so what's wrong...dam FML haha. Btw do you have any GPS signal problem with your tab? I use Sygic and HERE offline navigation app, both can't pick up GPS signal at all

triax37

iTrader: (1)

Wow! Really confused why this isn't working for you. GPS signal works great on my Nexus 7 - actually just tested 2+ hours yesterday and is still working fine. Maybe I won't test fate by updating my ROM for newer features, since my current installation is stable...

dmacroch

THANKS Triax27 for this write up and all the detailed info! Been a big help. I have a quick question for you or anyone else who may know.

Is the stock NON navi bezel any larger than the Navi bezel? As in, is there more area by default that could fit a larger tablet - Ipad mini, etc. into the Non Navi bezel? (without cutting it up)

Thanks again!

triax37

iTrader: (1)

Hey - sorry for the delayed response. The non-Navi bezel is the same size as the Navi bezel. The non-Navi bezel has more space behind where the Navi buttons are, but that space doesn't really help on the installation. The area where extra space would be helpful is where the A/C buttons are, and both the Navi and non-Navi TLs have the same dimensions here.

For anyone that wants to do this mod but is afraid of the software portion, send me a PM. I have a backup tablet that I'm ready to sell (original one is working great, 2 years in!).

dmacroch

Thanks! I actually did the same as you and have a Non-Navi housing/bezel coming soon. I got my navi display out and think until you do that you can't really grasp what room you have to work with.

My first goal was to do anything I can to get an actual 8" tablet in there, but of course with the extra width from the housing/case of the tablets, that is not doable.

I'm down to either trying an Ipad Mini 2 (200mm wide) or 8" 4x3 tablet (galaxy s2 = 198.6mm wide) as those look like the only two of that nature that will fit. However, just found out that Ipad Mini 2 does not have GPS receiver and don't want to use cell data or get an external GPS receiver.

Those might fit in there but then I'd need to modify the bezel in order for the extra room at the bottom. (added height in landscape orientation)

Ipad mini would have been easiest set up audio wise as I have an older Isimple gateway.

Another thought and not sure if you or anyone gave this any thought or an attempt -- has anyone tried to use an 8" tablet, but take it all out of the case and put it in the same OEM 8" opening? I'm not an expert on that and would only give it a shot if someone gave me a free tablet to play with.

Each possibility offers up some fun challenges.

If all that doesn't work, will go with the tried and true 7".

Thanks again.

FatBoiGotSwag

Amazing build thread, its like a one stop shop for all the info you need for this project.


Thank You!!!

jateelover

Hey, that's me! Just know that the correct easy cap is difficult to come by. I can dig up the link to the one I found if you need it. Mine works perfectly.

asarkar01

Hey, Awesome post. Very informative. This kind of gave me the courage to try this out.

I had a quick/dumb question though: How did everyone connect the Nexus 7 with the DAC? was it just a 3.5 mm extension or was it via the usb hub?

I have zero knowledge/experience regarding these sound equipments but want to try this out on my 06 TL, especially after my Navigation system broke down. Just want to make sure I go down the right path where I can get the best sound quality possible.

Sorry if I reactivated this old thread. Thanks again!

asarkar01

Also, Which iSimple would everyone recommend for this setup? I see there is a bunch out there like the ISHD 531, ISHD 571(not much of a choice), and ISHD 631. I think the ISHD 631 comes with the following bells and whistles:
Full control for iPhone: Wirelessly (Bluetooth) or Wired (using customer’s Apple USB cable)
Basic control for Android: Wirelessly (Bluetooth)
USB Thumb-drive support: upto 32GB and upto 8,000 MP3 files
2.1 Amp USB connection for charging of smartphones, tablets, and media players
Android audio streaming and wireless track control through Bluetooth connection
Built-in Bluetooth for hands-free calling (HFP) and audio streaming (A2DP)
Song text (metadata) on factory radio
Auxiliary audio input (3.5mm or RCA)

But I feel a lot of it is redundant with my Nexus 7 tablet onboard. And I do need a seperate Bluetooth for my phone as my HFL is dead too. As you can see, I have pretty much no knowledge about iSimple and am learning now. I am thinking ISHD 531 should be good but what do you guys think?

Thanks!

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

^^ fix your Hfl for 45 bucks by searching for a thread on Godin technologies. Can't help you with the other questions

triax37

iTrader: (1)

You're on the right path - keep going! As for the DAC, most people do USB into the DAC, and then plug a 3.5mm from the DAC into the iSimple. You can do the 3.5mm from the Nexus directly to the iSimple - there is a simple DAC built into the Nexus (which is what allows you to plug in headphones). However, adding the external DAC improves the quality of the signal, as the Nexus sends a higher quality digital signal to the external DAC (Fiio, etc.), which has superior processing capabilities compared to what's built into the Nexus DAC. Hopefully that wasn't too confusing!!!

As for the iSimple, there are lots of options, but you're right that many are duplicative if you're installing a Nexus 7 in the first place. So I would suggest the simplest (and least expensive) option, and then using the leftover money for the Fiio DAC.

My system is two years old - still works great! Seems a little slow to load multiple functions (music, maps, etc.) at times, so keeping an eye on that...

asarkar01

Thanks for the detailed response triax37!

I will be connecting the Nexus with the DAC and then into the iSimple for better sound quality. I am going for the FiiO K1. It doesnt have a battery attached to it but seems to be a pretty good DAC and Amp for the price ($40) - comparable to the E17 or E18. Is there any drawback of not using the standard DAC/Amp from FiiO like the E17 or E18. They seem to just have the extra battery which we dont really need in this case.

Another quick question: I was planning to use a transmitter/receiver for the video feed of the Esky backup camera instead of hardwiring it. I am not sure which method is more works better. Any thoughts on this guys?

Good to know that triax37's system is still working and doesnt have any issues.

triax37

iTrader: (1)

The Fiio K1 looks like a great choice. I actually prefer the ones without the battery, and now use the Fiio e10k. As for the transmitter, I haven't tried those, but please do post your results so that others can ideally skip the hardwired connection. I would actually consider switching too, as I'm interested in the parking distance sensors which are starting to hit the market such as Fensens.

77donovan77

iTrader: (2)

Anyone in the South Bay area of southern Ca with the complete Nexus 7 installed? I would like to see the full functionality (real time) of this setup before I spend money on a out dated not working Navi unit. I rather spend the money on this install instead......

Thanks

UA7X

Great source of information! And it's especially nice when you see a thread with working pictures :-)

I have a 2008 TL with navi, which has the 3.5mm aux factory input and the upper display shows
​A/C controls, so I feel like my car is a pretty ideal candidate for the install.

My setup will have the 2013 model Nexus 7, so I won't be able to move the usb port. Because of this, I understand I will have to cut into the AC buttons to run the cable. My first question: would a 90 degree angled micro-usb be a better fit or would that actually require more cutting of the AC buttons?

​​​​​​Next question: is there room to run a 3.5mm cable directly from the Nexus to the center console aux input? (I'm Assuming the same basic cutting into the AC buttons as what is necessary on the usb port side)

Thanks for all the help, and for forgiving me for restoring an old thread!

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

^ right angle will not Work. I was installing mine yesterday and the interference between the micro port and the ac controls was giving me lots of issues (and I was using a straight one). I cut off the rubber on the cord and the micro USB metal clips broke and now I have to wait two days for more cables. Buy extras.

For your audio question you want to run a USB hub in your center console along with a DAC. USB extension from OTG cable at tablet and run the USB to your hub and DAC in center console. Super easy for audio if you already have an aux jack

UA7X

Thanks for the quick reply! Sorry to hear about your cable issues. At least the cables are the cheapest components to replace. One thing we should be especially careful with is the micro USB port on the Nexus 7, seems they're notorious for the port becoming loose and causing the 5-pin connections to detach (which then causes charging and connection issues). So try to avoid bending the port with the cable plugged in.

I had a feeling the right angle wouldn't work, I haven't taken anything apart yet since I still need to order a couple things but I imagined the port is probably lined up with the edge of the AC buttons (which is why cutting would be necessary to provide a path for the cable).

The DAC is also an amplifier for the signal correct? So getting a usb hub with a 3.5mm jack (for example: SHARKK 3 Port USB Charger Hub w/ Audio) would probably work but it just wouldn't provide any improvement in sound quality?

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

well the OTG cables are 10 bucks each so they aren't that cheap haha. the male part fits loosely into the female part so i used some aluminum foil like others have done and slipped that into the flat side where it grounds. much more sturdy and a better connection.

for the right angle one, i took it apart and it seems to be soldered much more robustly so last night i bent it straight and am going to try to use that for my connector. you basically need to bend the connector wires over itself to be able to fit it in between the AC buttons even with grinding away portions.

DAC stands for digital-to-analog converter and it also amplifies it in some respects (bass, etc). different DACs have different benefits. i haven't heard of anyone using a hub instead of a DAC, but if i were you i'd use a DAC since it's so common and you can buy a cheaper one if you want. however it does look like the one you linked would work.

t took me about one month of testing different hardware items to find the "ideal" setup since the tablet install is very very picky on which components work and how well they work. i did another month of setting up the tablet software and now it's been about 2 days getting it installed in the car.

UA7X

Would something like an "up-angled" or 180 degree usb adapter work better? Or does the edge of the tablet sit flush with the edge of the A/C buttons? If you have your setup already out could you take a picture of how the tablet sits nexts to the AC buttons and how the cable needs to get routed? I'd appreciate it if it's not too much trouble!

​​​​​​

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

you're very limited to what cable you can use because you need an OTG cable that is thick to allow more power to the tablet otherwise you'll drain the tablet if you use it. the OTG is the most important cable and there are only a few that work well enough for the install power-wise, but force you to make the following modifications. if you can find me a thick, up angled connector OTG cable, please let me know haha. no matter which cable you use you have to trim off all the rubber housing around the connector

these are not my pictures, they are from https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...-heavy-945128/ but it's the same thing i'm going through. i have everything else ready to go except for this portion. i cut up most of my bezel but still need to actually hollow out the buttons shown below

UA7X

All the necessary cables etc are ordered and on the way, should have everything I need to begin the install in a few days. Maybe I'll have decent luck fitting it all together.

I ordered the Sharkk usb hub (that I linked to previously) and it came in the mail today. The 3.5mm port connects to the factory Aux input and the sound quality I think is good enough for my standards and expectations. I have a USB microSD card plugged into the Sharkk, and it seems to transfer and play my music without a problem. I haven't tested it with movies or videos since I don't have any on my HDD, but if anyone is interested or curious just let me know and I'll test that out.

UA7X

Does the OTG-Y cable need to be connected directly to the Nexus port? Or is it possible to use an extension cable between the Nexus and the OTG-y cable? IE:

Nexus
\--> USB extension
\--> OTG y-split
Charger <--/ \--> USB hub

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

^^ you can use an extension. Just try to limit how long your cord length is fro the charger. Most of us are trying to use three feet or less.

i just finished fitting my cord and I had to dremel a lot like the pics showed. I used a 90 degree connector, cut off all the rubber, bent it out straight, and then bent it over itself 180 degrees. My goal is to finish everything today. I'm still trying to figure out which wire is the reverse light in the center console so I can solder in my relay for the easycap for the reverse camera app

UA7X

Hope the install finished up nicely!
I haven't put much thought into my backup camera yet. Which camera are you using and what is the connection method? (Bluetooth, WiFi, USB, or some other specific video interface device etc)

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

install going well, today i need to mold the tablet into the bezel and then i can button everything up. reverse camera is fully working after find the correct wire by the fuse box for the reverse light for the relay.

i used this camera (https://www.amazon.com/Esky-EC170-08-Waterproof-Vision-170-Viewing/dp/B005Q65JHM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481492175&sr=8-2&keywords=esky+camera) and designed my own bracket to be bolted into the oem bezel where the oem camera goes. super robust and bolts right in, i 3D printed it.

i gave the camera power with the reverse wire in the trunk and grounded in the right rear wheel well. then i ran the video rca cord below the rear seats, under carpet, and up through the center console. i soldered a relay into a 6' usb cord so that the easycap device only gets power when in reverse (easy cap device allows camera to communicate with tablet). this allows the rear camera signal to pop up and disappear quickly and keep the easycap off until in reverse. most people don't use the relay which is an easier install, but i believe the relay method is the way people should do it.

you need this specific easycap, takes about 3 weeks to arrive: EasyCap 1 Channel Usb 2.0 Video DVD TV VHS Audio Adapter Capture for Win7 64bit | eBay
i use the easycap viewer app (2 bucks) and everything is working smoothly. little bit of a scrambled signal when i put it into reverse, but it quickly clears up.

here's a quick video i put together, i'll do more as my install wraps up and hopefully audio gets better

UA7X

^
Those EasyCAP devices really are hit & miss aren't they! The one I received is a "UTV007" model, which I'm pretty sure is a different chipset than the STK1160. This one does not seem to work with any of the dashcam apps that others are using, or with the vcam2 app on Timur's kernel v4.0. The only one app I've found to work is the paid app that you recommended, the "EasyCAP Viewer". The app works very well now after a lot of tinkering with the settings. Only thing is the app launches on Wake and stutters, then closes due to the lack of video feed and goes into "watchdoging" mode, so I agree with you - installing a relay after the Easycap is a better way to go.


​​​​​​Have you had to troubleshoot any excessive battery drain issues? I'm using a 2013 Nexus Android 6.0.1 MOB30X with Timur's kernel v4.0-final, FI mode and firm sleep are on, WiFi Bluetooth and location are off, the "always scanning for location improvement" settings for WiFi and Bluetooth are both off in the Android system settings. Yet I'm still losing 4-5% per 6 hours, 8-10% in 12hrs, ~20% in 24hrs.

Does your setup only drain ~4% per 24hrs like Timur says it should? Or have you had issues like that too?

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

those EasyCap devices are very particular...you have to get the right one! i'm probably going to buy another one of the one that's working right now just so i have it for the future in case my current one breaks. it's only like 6 bucks haha.

i could not get vcam2 to work so i just use easycap viewer, it works perfect for me and i didn't have to mess with the settings very much so it's good enough for me. i don't have any of the issues you mentioned, but i did prior to i installed the relay. i firmly believe the relay is the way to go for best functionality!

i have about 4% drain like it should over 24 hours. have you checked your RTC alarms? you need to check off as many as you can. what does your % awake show when you have a 24 hour drain? i believe it should be less than 1% awake.

P.S. here is my DIY write up i recently did: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...camera-953237/

UA7X

I unchecked the android.gms one that Timur recommended but had no difference, so I tried thebother end of the spectrum and just unchecked ALL of the RTC alarms lol, still no change. Last test result shows:

5hr 27min suspended
99.91% asleep, 0.09% awake.
4% change (98% - 94%)

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

hmm yea that seems super weird then, not sure why it's like that. do you run tasker? if you do you could set up a task to turn off gps, bluetooth, and wifi when power state goes away

UA7X

I don't have Tasker or any macro apps running yet, I figured it would be better to get the proper cable and system software set up properly before getting into running any additional custom scripts. I have WiFi, GPS/location, and Bluetooth all turned off via android system settings. I'm starting to think maybe it's a hardware issue instead of being software related. I bought the tablet used for 35 bucks because the charge port was all jacked up and it wouldn't charge anymore. I tightened up the port and re-flowed the pins to get it working, but those pins are so tiny and obnoxiously close together that maybe the pins are shorting on the board and causing it to drain somehow or something else of that nature (<-- don't I have a talent for sounding both clever and clueless at the same time? lol). I ordered a replacement charge port in case that's the problem. I'll keep tweaking the software in the meantime and I'll post if I find the cause.

Clifbarz

do you have a link to the isimple you used? also what kind of cable is used to connect the isimple to the OEM radio? (USB /aux)

I really wanna retain my steering wheel controls!!


Thanks!