When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
5 amp Automotive Micro Fuses
(Purchased at local Honda dealer. The parts guy said no-one has purchased these in a long time).
Optional but Highly Recommended:
A used Center Console and HVAC/Radio display for your vehicle. Both can be found on eBay for around $60 each. I made some big mistakes with my stuff. Thankfully, I still had the ones that came with my car to try again.
Other materials:
Speaker wire (for extending stock wires) purchased at local Walmart for ~ $10.
(I used 16 gauge wire, but I would use 18 gauge if I had to do it over again.)
Heat shrink tube (purchased at a local Home Depot). You will need lots of these.
Tools Used (The Less Obvious Stuff)
Safety Glasses
Particle Filter Mask (You don't want the stuff you cut off floating into your lungs.)
Dremel Multi-Tool (So helpful. If you don't have one, buy one.)
Wire Stripper (Self-Adjusting)
Exacto Knife
Soldering Iron
Solder
Software Purchased (I’ll assume you already rooted your tablet): Timur’s USB Kernel https://timur.mobi/timurs-kernel-n7-2013/
This is a kernel for the Stock ROM. It enables simultaneous fast charge with, USB OTG, DAC, and Deep Sleep which makes the tablet shut off when it loses external power. Unless you have a better idea, I suggest you spend the money on it. It’s worked quite well for me.
Tasker https://play.google.com/store/apps/d....taskerm&hl=en Highly recommended. Automates functions on your android device. I tether my tablet to my 4G phone to get internet access on the tablet. I plan to setup Tasker on my phone to automatically enable WiFi Tethering when it detects that the Bluetooth antennae has connected to my Acura’s HandsFreeLink. That way the tablet will get internet access from the phone whenever I start the car, and I won’t have to touch the phone to make it happen.
Sometimes the Google Play Services software will run regardless of tablet sleep status. This will drain the tablet battery fast. Tasker can be made to freeze this app when the tablet stops charging, and unfreeze it when power is restored.
Notes
1: I'll start by saying that Murphy's Law applies to this project, so be ready for it to take longer than you expected.
2: You will need to extend the existing wires using the speaker wire.
Solder the wires!
Don't try crimping the wires, or you'll be sorry. I tried it and several of the crimped connections came undone when I was struggling to stuff the head unit and display back in the dash. Yes, the thought of soldering over 40 wires (twice) is daunting, but you can do it.
3. Be careful with your Dremel; one moment of carelessness can leave you slicing into things you don't want to cut. I again recommend you purchase used parts to experiment on.
Picture Time
The stock HVAC/Radio display will be moved to where the cubbies are. The cubbies will be removed.
A flat surface is needed for the display to sit flush against the center console frame.
Test fit.
Lengthening the wires
2 feet of wire will be more than enough to reach the new HVAC/Radio display location. You're better off with wires that are slightly longer than necessary, than too short. Just remember there isn't much room in your dash so don't make them too long.
Soldering
The foil you see is used to keep me melting the green harness, if I accidentally brush the soldering iron against it.
Heat Shrink tube.
Many hours later....test run. You'll notice that the bottom corners are cut off of the printed circuit board. I needed to do this to accommodate the air ducts that run down the center console for the back seat vents. Be careful to not damage the wire traces on the PCB.
Electrical tape wrapped around everything, because I'm paranoid.
A piece of Acrylic from Home Depot used to take up the space between the HVAC/Radio Display and the center console frame.
Painting the acrylic black. The surrounding areas are masked off with tape.
Securing the PCB to the Console Frame
Shoe lace tied around the stock screws.
Fitting the Tablet
This is the part that gave me the most difficulty during this project. The USB port on the 2nd generation Nexus 7 cannot be removed from the board. To make the USB cable fit, I had to hollow out both the Mode and A/C buttons on the passenger side controls. It took a lot of trial and error to get it right. Sometimes I would get it to fit, but the USB cable would cause the climate control buttons to stick.
There was also the issue of fitment of the tablet itself. There's little wiggle room in there, and sometimes the tablet itself would press against the sides of the climate control buttons causing them to stick.
Another problem was that sometimes when I pressed the buttons, they would knock loose the USB cable from the tablet.
Eventually it all worked out, but it took a lot of cutting, and tweaking to get everything to fit flush and functional.
Hollowing out the HVAC buttons.
There is now plenty of room for the USB OTG cable.
You'll need this to make everything stay attached in the car. I had to cut the sides way down to accommodate the tablet and the USB OTG cable.
I also took a minute to cut an access port for the power and volume buttons, should I ever need to reach them. The large hole in the back is for if I need to route the USB OTG cable.
The vacuum caps are to keep the bolts from scratching the back of my tablet.
DC to DC power supply with micro USB connector I soldered on the output side, and an inline fuse connector I soldered to the input side.
I soldered the input of the DC-DC power adapter to the cigarette lighter line. I used some speaker wire to extend the length of the connection so the DC-DC adapter can sit at the top of the dash, near the center channel speaker.
I grounded everything here.
Toiling at crazy hours.
I had to lengthen these wires too.
I opted to include a toggle switch so the tablet can charge while the vehicle is off. I mounted the switch to the center console, left of the transmission lever. I wired it to the driver seat slide fuse, since that fuse is constantly powered.
Switch end of the wire.
Fuse box end of the wire, with fuse tap soldered on.
5 amp fuse for the switch, and the stock 20 amp fuse for the driver's seat.
On this switch it was power in the middle, ground at the top, and accessory at the bottom. I blew fuses figuring this one out.
Audio
The long USB extension cable runs through the center console to this USB hub. I powered the hub by cutting off its power brick and soldering the wires to the DC-DC power converter.
I put the FiiO E10k under the armrest lid, and the hub in the center console compartment.
Test run using DSub for Android. Pictured is a FiiO E17. Use an E10k instead since it will activate on its own when energized.
"opted to include a toggle switch so the tablet can charge while the vehicle is off. I mounted the switch to the center console, left of the transmission lever. I wired it to the driver seat slide fuse, since that fuse is constantly powered."
Hi, I got the power wire connect the fuse as you suggested but I can't figure out where to connect the other 2 wires from the switch. Did you splice into to usb wire comcoming from tablet that plugs into the power Socket? Thanks
"opted to include a toggle switch so the tablet can charge while the vehicle is off. I mounted the switch to the center console, left of the transmission lever. I wired it to the driver seat slide fuse, since that fuse is constantly powered."
Hi, I got the power wire connect the fuse as you suggested but I can't figure out where to connect the other 2 wires from the switch. Thanks
My switch has an LED on it, which is why it has 3 pins instead of just two. Only one of those pins is used to power your electronics. My switch is like this:
Power in the middle (Connects to fuse box)
Ground at the top (Connects to vehicle ground)
Accessory at the bottom (Connects to your electronics)
Originally Posted by Stanislav Zhelezny
Did you splice into to usb wire coming from tablet that plugs into the power Socket?
Sorry, the 15 minute limit passed and I can't edit the previous post.
I spliced into the 12v line that feeds the socket.
I connected the accessory pin from the switch to the wire that provides power to the cigarette lighter/power socket.
hi JTMiles
so I am next in the process of Nexus install and relocating display which I am doing similar to your style I.e. display and circuit board went into the cubby area.
Per your our last post, I assume - For the socket, did you cut the cigarette socket line and used it for the DC-DC adaptor and then powered the cigarette socket with the accessory wire from the switch? So socket is powered from the switch? And where did you install the socket since cubby is gone?
Per your our last post, I assume - For the socket, did you cut the cigarette socket line and used it for the DC-DC adaptor and then powered the cigarette socket with the accessory wire from the switch?
Originally Posted by aameetsha
So socket is powered from the switch?
Yes, to both. The socket is powered when the switch is on or when the key ignition is on.
Originally Posted by aameetsha
And where did you install the socket since cubby is gone?
The socket is still back there, it's just hidden behind the display. If you can find a USB charger that will plug into the socket to power the tablet, that would be simpler than running all those wires for a big charger like I did, but at the time I couldn't find one that would deliver the power I needed without burning out.
Yes, to both. The socket is powered when the switch is on or when the key ignition is on.
The socket is still back there, it's just hidden behind the display. If you can find a USB charger that will plug into the socket to power the tablet, that would be simpler than running all those wires for a big charger like I did, but at the time I couldn't find one that would deliver the power I needed without burning out.
so I ran two separate fuses - one over constant fuse and other over switch fuse ( IGN spare and Power seat) both go to a relay after which the constant current line passes through a switch and finally both lines meet again at a cigarette socket connected to the tablet. It’s working very well
now - my biggest headache - post are on peter6 nexus install. Basically my Audio won’t transfer from Nexus speaker to DAC. Currently developer option - select USB CONNECTIVITY IS SET AS AUDIO SOURCE. DAC is detected as a USB device on FI mode.
Which Timur Kernel allows to play music from apps over USB instead of AUX and thereby allow transfer to DAC? It seems no one ever had an issue. Not sure what am I missing or didn’t install a app or a kernel
Which Timur Kernel allows to play music from apps over USB instead of AUX and thereby allow transfer to DAC? It seems no one ever had an issue. Not sure what am I missing or didn’t install a app or a kernel
This never happened to me, even when I was using his kernel for Android 4.
I'm using Timur's kernel for Android 6 now. It can be found here: Timur's Reddit
This never happened to me, even when I was using his kernel for Android 4.
I'm using Timur's kernel for Android 6 now. It can be found here: Timur's Reddit
I am using Android 6 kernel now. Audio issues are resolved and installation has been completed. For whatever reason I am unable to attach my pics to the forum..
everything worked day 1 including Easy cap which I must mention that it was my 3rd time purchase after 2 blew up. But since day 2- I got these issues going on
1. easy cap is not recognized in PEM. I am using free app called FPViewer and it shows device disconnected. So it is not connecting even though my Easycap has a green light when in reverse ( I have a relay). It was working on night and next morning not getting connected. I think it’s something with PEM. That night my battery drained and had to start with power button
2. tablet goes to long deep sleep- shows suspend but when power is turned on - it does not go through AWAKE. It starts instantaneously with last screen as if it never went to deep sleep.. but PEM did go to sleep. Some reason awake never works
3. I am loosing 20% per 24 hours with WiFi turned off. So I went to check RTC alarms. When clicked, it pulls the 1st line txt that here is a list but nothing shows up. PEM then gives an error that is it not responding and I have to force close. For power I am using a relay and two power lines. Ignition key triggers the relay with power from ignition fuse. Relay Connects power from a constant power switch. When relay is off, same power flows through alternate relay circuit and via switch goes to the same cigarette adaptor. I am suspecting cranking issues may be a problem and I may have to add a .5 microF capacitor in front of the cigarette adaptor
any suggestions for Easycap bs. Or alternative options
please ignore #1 from earlier post, Easycap was tapped up near accelerator and usb had come off loose. Interestingly it was engaged enough to connect power but not enough to recognize as a usb device connection and start transferring data.
05-06-2016, 01:42 AM
