I'm really stumped about this.
This is what happens:
Put key in, turn to position I (accessory) radio begins to power on and music plays beautifully.
As soon as I put the key into position II (when all the dash gauges come on) there is this static noise much like 60hz hum. Putting the key back to position I will not solve the noise until I open the door (powers off windows and such). Anyone know what is at work here? What does opening doors with key in position I do? What components exactly are turning off? This noise is also mostly noticable in the right side exclusively, especially the tweeter. The centre channel speaker also makes the noise even thought it is not receiving a signal but I unplugged it anyway.
I've tried grounding RCAs and 2 different used amps. Unplugging the RCAs from the head unit makes the noise present regardless of key being in I or II. This is really weird. Anyone with information is appreciated.

 

Seems to be a ground loop issue from another source.
If anyone knows the area I could start looking at under the fuse boxes to narrow down the accessories that stay powered for 10 mins after ignition off, I could start looking there.
In the meantime, I bought a PAC SNI-1 groud loop filter and it has quieted down by enough not to be heard over music at low volume. It was picking up alternator whine when placed with the other wires however. I had to move it up and to the left in a small area near the ignition.

 

I started having a similar problem after having my A/C compressor replaced. Service center original assumed it was a "ground issue," but after an hour of searching they couldn't find anything they had done to cause it. Buzz/whistle when engine is running, but it stops a few seconds after I turn to ACC mode.
I investigated the PAC SNI-1 GLI, but it won't work from my stock radio/amp. Hoping to find local audio shop that might be able to hack one for me or have better knowledge as to where the ground wiring may have been compromised.. With 171K miles I'm not worried about voiding the warranty! I'll let you know if I make any discoveries.

 

The ground loop isolator doesn't really help by much to be worth the effort. Im in the process of installing a new battery negative to chassis strap.

 

did you ever figure out what your issue was and how did you solve it?

 

No, it is so low in volume i barely even hear it over the engine that i learned to live with it lol. I would only hear it with the car off and windows up. But easily fixed by opening the door.
There must be bad ground I'm sure somewhere in the car. It could also be the HU picking up the noise from the ECU directly below.

 

definitely sounds like a bad ground

 

damn sorry to hear that man. i asked because i've been chasing a static/hiss in my setup for over a year now. it overpowers "quiet" songs but it can't be heard when driving because it gets masked by other sounds. i have the oem head unit going to an aftermarket amp, frront speakers, and a trunk sub. i've tried noise filters, multiple head units, ground isolators, different ground points (all sanded down to metal), all new wiring, and new speakers but still can't fix it. i even took it to a few shops and talked to some very respected audio people on here and they couuldn't help me. my next step is to take it to a very respected but expensive shop to check it out but they charge like 150/hr.

was thinking about going double din but sounds like that may not fix it either. do you have a double din on a navi setup, or is yours non navi?

 

My setup was non navi. I'm extremely sensitive to noise myself and have spent too much time myself that I literally went deaf to it haha. Other people won't notice it until I mention it. A shop was willing to look at it and only charge me if he found the problem but wanted the car for most of the day and I didn't have time for that. I guess it's a matter of tracing grounds. I have a new battery to chassis and engine to chassis (which were dried green grass looking) and not the slightest difference but the car definitely feels like all other electronics are working better. Now I can't remember if this noise was present prior to me changing the head unit. If it wasn't, it's got to be the wiring, or hu picking up noise. The noise seems to come when the amp power on signal is sent. It will even be quiet with the key on if there is no audio source playing (no power to amp ON) and completely noise free in ACC mode and door opened (shuts off power to windows etc.)
Is your setup permanent or can you switch back to OEM?
And is you noise always present? Regardless of key position?

 

seems like non navi people have a much easier time putting in a double din.

yea i've added upgrade ground cables to the transmission mount area and the side mount area, as well as parts of the big three including a new battery to chassis upgrade.

my setup is permanent, everything is soldered in and i sold my oem stuff. it's not bad enough to where i would go back to oem, plus it sounds great overall but i can tell when the volume is low the hiss is there. people wouldn't hear it if i didn't point it out. i'm just a perfectionist so it always bugs me haha.

the noise is always present regardless of key position. i'm seriously dumbfounded on what it could be. i briefly hooked up my oem speakers to the aftermarket amp and it had the same hiss that was not there before my setup so it's probably something to do with the amp or it's main ground. i bought my JL amp used, but i tried a brand new one (same model) and it had the same hiss so maybe i should try another brand of amp to see if that's it. usually JL works great with TL setups.

i'm looking at a double din partly because of that issue, but mainly because i use a standalone garmin on my dash that would look a lot cleaner if it was integrated into a double din item.

 

I'm assuming you are auto? I don't know if MT has the ground at the transmission, I'll have to give it a look.
I thought the only difference between navi and non-navi was the resistor splicing to keep the audio? Or did you have to do something special with the cd reader in the trunk?
Something you may want to try. Carefully (can't stress this enough as the speaker grill can get scratched) unplug the front tweeters one at a time. A very thin piece can pull it out. I find most of the hiss is coming from the passenger tweeter. So now I have that factor to make everything more confusing lol. Can't be a bad speaker issue since it only happens in key position II.

 

i'm MT, there's a ground there but i misspoke it's not the transmission mount but somewhere close to it in that area.

every double din install i've seen is the non navi version. there's just a different harness for the navi setup and you have to keep both screens in there. just seems more complicated but i recently talked with another member and he said his wasn't too bad of an install. i haven't read up on the resistor thing very much so i'll have to look into that. the only stock amp items i'm using is the for the rear speakers and my sub output, but i could easily change my sub output to the new double din if i go that route.

i can't pull out the tweeters because everything is hardwired...the wire into the tweeter came from image dynamics that way, and i have it soldered on the other end. it comes out of both tweeters. the reason you may think it's coming from a tweeter is because the tweeters are meant to provide high frequency sound waves....so since a hiss is high frequency it will be more pronounced from the tweeter when in reality it's coming from a signal upstream. my hiss come from both sides equally so i doubt mine is a tweeter. if yours is specific, i would hunt down that tweeter and see if some wires are pinched or something.

 

Thanks for clarifying. All the grounds in the engine are corroded so I'm changing them out one by one.

 

Have you checked the negative cable on the battery?
.
.

 

First thing I changed, it was also green.

 

OP did you ever figure out your issue and get a solution?

 

Your fuckton of grounds in the driver's side kickpanel may be suspect there... hums/static/buzz are typically grounding issues

 

haha i may have a solution to mine and it doesn't anything to do with that "busy" ground by my fuse box lol. some local audio acura owners troubleshooted with my system and they said i need to link the new amp ground with the oem head unit ground in dash behind the storage compartments.

just curious to see what happened with OP's solution

 

Curious to see what yours ends up being

 

me too lol sucks i gotta tear apart the center console again but i might have to reset my tablet anyways