yes absolutely

 

I have a pair ready for installation (lights on the car were in bad condition when I bought it). How is the seal quality on them? Has anyone picked up any moisture inside them?

 

Hi all ! I installed these headlights and really love it. But somehow it’s shaking little bit on passenger side which is i don’t really care much. After 4 months, now it’s getting worst and light points down on the right side and 👀 so damn retarded . I contacted the seller and they said will exchange if they received the headlight first. Lmao 😂 this is my daily drive and “ no way Jose “ I drive without headlights. So I told them “ will place a new set headlights then I’ll return the defected one “ , “ yes please do “ they said. Conclusion for whoever has the same problem like I did , please contact them ASAP.

 

None

 

So that means they must have resistors inside them. Is there a way to disable/remove resistors?

I'm running on stock lights with LEDs with modified turn signal relay, and if I make up my mind about those lights, I would like to run them without any power wasting heaters.

 

Try clipping the resistors...at your own peril of course

However if that causes them to go south just tie them back in and they should work fine.
*Edit...I see now via the pic below the resisters are attached via harness so you've got nothing to lose.

I used to be concerned of "wasting power" via resistors but it honestly doesn't matter.

 

I think that you and the others who now have had issues with shaking beams may have over adjusted them when aiming.

I now see their stating to not do this

 

define over adjust? lol
probably means to not aim the lights too high?

 

Not too high and not too low. If you go over then the screw falls out from the nut in projector (if that is the setup) and projector can just flop around.

Normally I would expect the lights to have some kind of stopper preventing from over adjusting.

 

On aftermarket lights probably not.

 

Hi all, I own a 08 base TL and I purchased these lights. I am VERY interested in having the LED accents lights to function as DRL (or just be on all the time when the car is on). From what I understand the LED accents will be only on when the parking lights are on or the headlights are on (I don't want to drive around with my headlight stock in the parking light position) Anyone know what wires on the headlight control the LED accents lights? Hopefully, they are wired independently...

 

Probe it by putting 12 Volts to each pair of wires to find out!

 

I thought about have the LED accents on as DRL's as well, but then realized just how good the lights look when they are off........
the black housing accents, along with the chrome, and on NBP is a nice combo.

Be careful though, you don't want to mess these up

 

I like the way you say probe....

 

I'll do some experimenting tonight and let you guys know what I find

 

^Please do! Interesting idea.


Also if you could take before and after pics of cutoff.? Idk if anyone has done that yet! I have my housings blacked out and the ZKW swap for the lens. Just interested to see the cutoff comparison. I really like the lights, major update on the front end!

 

So I figured out the source to my light output shaking. The projector housing actually came loose. So I threw some epoxy in there and hopefully it'll be solid now. Hope nobody else has this issue!

 

I found some pics of my stock lights and the new ones, enjoy.

Stock:



New:

 

Wow!

 

Hey Hamburglar,

Did the Epoxy work? Where did you throw the epoxy specifically? I'm wondering if it would be a good preventative measure for new installs going forward....

 

Hey surprisingly yes. And I'm on some bumpy PA roads with potholes all over. Probably what caused this in the first place. So about 10 days after the epoxy it's still holding up perfectly with no shakes. I put the epoxy in the crack where the arrow is pointing, and to make it extra secure I stuck 30 cents (quarter and a nickel) in the epoxy and a picture hanger on the opposite side lol. Funny to look at but definitely makes it secure. Was just looking for any metal object around 10mm thick.

 

oh wait...

 

Haha yep your post is what made me take a look in there actually

 

Hi All,

So I tackled this install yesterday and I wanted to follow up on 3 items that were mentioned in this thread. The 3 items are using the white LED strip as DRL, the actual DRL bulbs not working in the new headlights, and issues with shaky projector housings!

1) Using the LED strip as DRL

So I really wanted the white LED strip to be on during the day without having to switch my light stock knob from the parking light position to the headlights ON position. There are 3 wires going into the new headlight housing that used to be connected to the turn signal bulb in the old headlight. The wires are black, red, and green. The black is ground, the red is a positive pulsing signal that is connected to the turn signal amber LEDs in the new headlight, the green wire is a positive that provides a constant 12v to the white LED strip (when the full headlights are on or the parking lights are on). I cut the green wire going into the headlights and connected it directly to a fuse in the fuse box under the hood that had constant 12v when the car was on. I used the fan relay fuse, the same one jdmvette used in the above post to keep his fogs on all the time. The result is when I turn on my car the white LEDs are always on (during the day and night). I am pleased with the results. (I know I need a car wash haha)





2) Actual DRL bulbs not working when new headlight installed (design flaw!)

A couple of people have mentioned this issue. I connected everything and when I tested it out everything worked fine but the DRL error was on my dash and the DRL bulbs didn't work. The issue for me was the extender wire piece they include for the 07-08 has a pretty cheap harness and pins. It looks like it's connected but it's NOT! You have to really push until it clicks (I had to use pliers). Then to make it worse, once it's connected the pins on the extender piece side pop out the back of the harness and they don't make contact. Also, because these are wired in series both sides have to be connected for them to work. I was able to test this by taking the pins out of the harness and plugging them directly. When I put the pins back in the harness I really had to push the pins down once the harness was connected to the car for them to make contact.


TEST, I REPEAT. JUST A TEST

Push together until teal harness clicks over the tab on the other harness,

2) Headlight projector housing coming lose (design flaw)

As a couple have mentioned the headlights can sometimes shake when going over bumps after using them for some time. That is indeed the projector housing coming lose. They are designed more cheaply on the aftermarket headlight and I had a bit of wiggle room on mine and can see how it could lead to a problem. The epoxy and wedge fix mentioned in the above post is what I will try if I have the issue. I'm curious to see if it will develop. But I wanted to share as a heads up to all.


All is all I am EXTREMELY pleased with the design and function of the new lights!

 

Nicely done!







Now wash your car and take some better pics!

 

nice job, RxWorld

 

So how are these holding up guys? any issues? do you still love them or miss the old look?

 

Mine are holding up great! So much so that I sold my stock pair locally for a pretty penny.
The design and build quality is great.
I don't have DRLs in mine currently as I like the way the lights look off, with their dark background on my NBP.
But I enjoy turning on the parking lights and only driving around with the led strips on. I just need to do the independent fog light switch so that I can run the fogs at that time too, it really looks aggressive as it is now though!

 

so on the drl’s what harness did you use to run leds

 

07/08 owners, how the bleepity bleep did you replace the fixtures? I cannot access those ballast platform bolts on the driver side without removing the air intake.

 

I removed the front bumped and the battery, then there's like 4 or 5 bots under and around the each headlight.

 

Yours must have had the bolts removed prior. Each fixture has a peice of sheet metal which shares screws with the ballast, and has two 10 mm bolts anchoring into the body. To access them on the passenger side, I had to partially drop the washer fluid reservoir. To access the drivers, I don't see any way of doing it without partially disassembling the air intake.

 

Update - During installation, I damaged the 9005 harness connecting to one of the DRL bulbs. Now, neither DRL powers up. Do the 2007/8 models run their DRLs by powering the two halogen bulbs in series? I should be able to solder a replacement harness into the wiring easy if that would fix it.

 

If you want schematics, they are in this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...nstall-960677/

The short answer is yes, they are run in series. Like you wrote, get universal 9005 connector from somewhere and just solder it in.

 

So I decided to pull the trigger on both CBB and those headlights. Why not? Guess the only difference is that I got them from "AKKON" from Amazon.








I wired them so "DRL" part stays always ON if car is running (wired to DRL circuit and side marker circuit, both through diode to prevent back-feeding). Old DRL bulb (one on the inside) is wired to side marker wire so it comes up with headlights. On the inside I've used one of cheap 10W LEDs from Amazon with 5ohm resistor in line to dim it down a bit. I like the whole headlight to light up like in first photo, but I don't want to blind oncoming traffic. I thing I will add another 5 ohm in line to get it even more down.

Turn signals come with load resistors (that black box that is seen on the other guys' photos). Very easy to remove as I modified the turn signal relay and have no need for them.

I would say that my only two complains are that DRLs could be a little bit brighter (like modern BMW or even Nissans), and that I have a feeling that they shine less on the sides of the car. Like OEM lights had more angle. Oh and high beams are kinda noisy.

I wrapped them with 3m clear film and I'm hoping they will last a long time. With CBB I can't see the brightness difference vs CBI on OEM lights, but it's been only two night trips so far.

 

welcome to the club

 

One thing I noted awhile back was if you have your parking lights on with these headlights.....after a few seconds (about 10 or so) they will automatically turn off - only if car isn't on and key is not in ignition mode.

A nice feature built in, as with OEM headlights the parking lights would remain on and you would hear that chime when door was opened to remind you to switch them off.

 

^or hit the lock button on keyfob twice, to shut them all down....

 

What Slpr04UA6 said, but if it doesn’t turn off then you can go through the settings and you can adjust how long before the lights turn themselves off too

 

that was a feature with OEM headlights as well, I'm pretty sure the parking light one is different because of these headlights.