I have a dilemma. I originally installed a JL 250/1 amp and a JL 8W3v2 in the stock location. I hadn't listened to it unti yesterday and after hearing it I decided I didn't like the way the JL sounded in the original free air spot so I decided that I would move it to the trunk and put it in a sealed box. I took the car apart...again, took out the sub, put the factory sub back in, put the JL in the box - wired parallel mind you, bolted the box in the trunk and put the car back together. I figured I was done but it seems like I am never done with this damn thing. My GF came over and we were gonna go run a couple errands so I stopped @ the gas station and when I turned the car off the sub made a hideous WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO noise until I put the car into acc mode and it stopped. Right then my first thought was, SHIT, so I went in the trunk and turned off the signal sensing mode so the sub would be "off". I tried turning the signal sense mode back on later on with the car off and it did the same thing, same noise like it had constant base going into it. So as of now its "off". It did not do this when I had it in the factory spot. Here is my setup - I have power wire going to battery under all the trim and through the factory grommet. My ground is the factory bolt ground in the trunk just behind the rear seat. I did not tap or splice the factory sub wires instead I did as the JL manual said and tapped the left and right rear speakers and used the JL audio Hi-low L/R RCA interconnects so they could be converted into RCAs for the amp. I have no remote line setup as this amp says it has the signal sensing capability. What could be causing this sub to make this god-awful noise when the car is COMPLETElY turned OFF?
Please help before I just rip this damn sub out of my car again

 

Sounds like there may be some interference between the speaker wire splices and the power wire. If I were you, I would hook up to stock sub wires. Not to mention, without doing that you cant control the sub from the head unit. In essence you've turned your 5.1 into a 5.0

 

Ok, but If I do go that route, which will suck bc I will have to take the car apart yet again, do I still have make a left and right speaker connection with the RCAs? Or do I simply hack off the connector for the sub, splice on power and ground wires and run that to the amp? Or do I need to connect the RCA interconnects - which has four wires with both positives L/R tapped into the power line and both grounds L/R tapped into the ground wire of the subwooder connector cable? So confusing...

 

your messing the + and - , somewhere. Unhook one of yours Rca , then you can tell which one it is

 

I had this EXACT same problem when I installed my first sub in the TL. Everything was great until I turned the car off, then the sub would go nuts until I turned the key back on. Here's the short story of what's causing the problem:

When the amp is in 'signal sense' mode, it doesn't turn off when the car turns off. It waits for 5 minutes or so of no signal and then turns off. (I'm assuming you've got the stock sub still pugged in, because that's what I did) So basically, when you turn the car off, no signal is being passed to the stock sub amp. However, any movement of the stock sub (and this can be minute) will create a signal in the speaker level input wire to the aftermarket sub. The stock sub is basically working in reverse as a microphone at this point.

So with the stock sub acting as a microphone (it's amp is off when the car is off) and the aftermarket sub still powered up (acting like it should, as a speaker), you've created a low-frequency feedback loop just like holding a PA microphone too close to the speaker (everyone knows the annoying squeal of feedback). I'm guessing the sound starts out at a low volume and then gets progressively louder over a second or two of elapsed time. This is the result of the feedback loop amplifying itself.

So, all that to say.... unplug the wire from the stock sub and everything will be ok. OR run a remote turn-on wire from the navigation DVD player in the trunk to turn your aftermarket amp on / off with and that'll fix it too.

EDIT: Re-reading the OP, I noticed you're using the rear-speakers for your signal. DON'T do this. Use the sub wire for your signal. The rear speakers are not getting the correct frequencies for your sub. Also, in 5.1 mode, the sub won't be doing it's part. So in summary, switch to the stock sub for your signal, and either unplug the wire from the stock sub, or run a remote-turn on lead from the navi.

 

Ok updates on what I have done. I bit the bullet and took apart my rear for the umpteenth time. I pulled the JL outta the box and took out the stock sub again, hacked off the oem sub connecter, peeled the tape back and spliced on 18G speaker wire to extend to the amp for L/R. I threw the JL back into the OEM spot, dynamatted some of the rear deck and put heavyduty velcro underneath any gaps in the sub as I could only get one screw to bolt it in and I couldnt fit a drill in the back to make new holes. After running the 18G speaker wire to the trunk I had to splice on the JL interconnects to connect to the amp. The sub is still wired parallel running to the amp. Now I do have one small problem which may just be how I have the amp configured but I'd like some feedback as to it's source. I still have it in signal sense mode, input sensitivity is set horizontal like - its on high pass filter and 24db. Settings on the navi screen are just 2- ticks aboves "Off" but for some reason when I put the audio up to 14 or so or if the base in the song is heavy the sub will distort. I've also noticed some distortion or hiss even when the volume is low. Is this due to some wiring issue or Does signal sense mode just suck? Does anyone know which wire in the navi in the trunk I would tap for remote?
As of right now I'm okay with it but the thought of it distorting when I wanna crank it up high scares me Any more info is appreciated

 

i would not tap the navi for remote there is a fuse in the fuse box in the drivers floor area that number 32 i think but i could check if you want. and it sounds to me you should use the LOC and turnn on lead i had a similar prob with basslink using the auto sence

 

Ahh, really? I figured it was a wiring issue as I only crimped my connections and I didnt like the fact I needed to splice both L/R +/- (4wires) to a pair of 18G speaker wire. I just bought a navone NE 7(I think thats it) yesterday so Ill rewire AGAIN when it comes in As for now Im gonna try and run the remote to 32, I did a search and thats what others have tapped into for the fuse box. I dont even bother putting all the bolts back in the rear seat anymore. Reason one being noone ever really sits back there and reason 2 being I'll probably be taking the back seat and rear deck out again for something I screwed up or just to see if I can beat my record Why is everything so damn hard with this car? I could take apart my old wrangler with just a philips head.

 

fokker, whats the rear seat removal count up to? I bet we are close, unless you are up to 20 times. I hate the rear pillars those airbag push pins/buttons are my enemy. They cost 40ish bux.

Anyhow, I was looking to buy a 8W3v2-D4, put it in the stock location running off the stock amp. I was looking at some of my notes and I have it written that the depth under the sub is 3 inches. But the subs mounting depth is 4.25 inches. Did your extend into the hole under it, did you cut something up? Or are my measurements way off (I hope).

I kinda sealed it with dynamat, but no doubt its not perfect. Why did you not like the free air? Are you looking for alot of bass? I just want cleaner bass. Do you think my plan is flawed?

FYI I ran some Cat-5 to the back when I installed my NAV2TV.. I figured I could use it for something like a remote wire if it ever came up... The cigarette power source is switched with the power. I'm just getting started, so I have alot more reading to do.

 

Ahhh, the count is definitely around 10 or so, I can take the entire rear apart in about 10mins now Well Im not sure about the D4 but I have the D2 and I forget if stock sub was 4 Ohms or 2 but anywho the mounting depths of the sub are probably idenitcal. As for mine after I dropped the JL in the bottom of the magnet sticks out underneath(where the hole is when you remove the rear trunk upper carpet trim) about 1/4-1/2" it fits in quite nice actually. My only problem was that the damn bracket holes dont line up except for one and with the rear glas in the way I saw no way of drilling new holes so I velcroed the 'mo in there and put one screw in real tight.

I must be honest, it sounds good even in free air - clean, which is what I wanted as well but when its cranked up it fires off the rear tray and you can hear the rattle from it pushing the tray up. When I put it in the box I could just feel how much more bass this little thing should be putting out. It sounded nice too. But I digress, It took up trunk space and made removal of the rear trunk trim even harder as the spare tire cover went from weighing 5lbs to like 20lbs( I bolted both amp and sub/box) on the factory wood. I didnt do any stealth install for the amp as I like the security of having my spare tire so (from looking at trunk to inside the car) the amp sits in the upper left corner so it takes up minimal space. I took the biggest drill bit I had and drilled holes through the carpet/wood and ran all my wires under the carpet then up thru to the amp. Looks very clean. I was going to go sans amp at first as well but honestly if you think about it, it wll not put out much, if any more bass, than your stock did bc they both are getting the same amount of power from the factory amp. If I were you Id just get an amp off ebay (I got my 250/1) for $100 and its way more power than the thing needs. When all is said and done it really does sound nice.

The only thing that sucks now Is I have a new 8" sealed box just sitting in the garage.

 

OH and yes those rear A-pillars are the bane of my existance...

 

dude hold on first.....how did u connect the sub line to the hi/low? i did it with one line in preferably the right and one line out with a y connector at the end going into the amp because it has 2 channels.... if u spliced the line into 2 and then into the hi/low...u just dropped the load on the wrong end.... the load is supposed to drop at the sub end of things once the sound is reproduced... another scenario is the remote cable. change it or have another source turn on the amp either manually or have it turn on with the ignition wires....the wire from the stock amp is 9v it doesnt do justice and the unload from it may give some kind of pulsating feedback.

 

From my sub line I took 18G speaker wire and splice it on to the +/- of the original subwire and ran it down so it could reach my amp. The RCA interconnects have 2 male ends, one for left and right channels and on the back it had 4 wires to connect. Respectively the solid gray and white were + and gray/glack and white/black were - so I twisted those wires (solids together, stripes together) and crimped them onto the + and - of the extended sub wire and plugged it into the amp. Does everyone have their sub wired in parallel or in series? I got my LOC yesterday so I plan on fixing my sub connection today along with drilling a whole in the chassis for its own ground and running a remote to the fusebox or the ignition if I feel like removing all the damn trim again.

On a positive note, I swapped out my 04 front grille mesh for the 07 yesterday The honeycomb pattern looks so much better IMO.

 

The RCA interconnects have 2 male ends, one for left and right channels and on the back it had 4 wires to connect. Respectively the solid gray and white were + and gray/glack and white/black were - so I twisted those wires (solids together, stripes together) and crimped them onto the + and - of the extended sub wire and plugged it into the amp.


dude thats where u went wrong.....ur only supposed to connect one channel not connect them together u pick either grey or white.....not both......then u split the rca connection...ur sub gets connected parallel or series depending on the sub and sound u want coming out.

 

u use one RCA cable that goes to the amp from the hi/low then u connect a Y adapter (one female to 2 male) at the end and then plug it into the amp....u may have burned the hi/low if ur getting crazy noises....after u connect it the right way and it doesnt make noise then theres no damage..... this is for ur sub it applies to allllll subs http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp