I appreciate your help, by viewing the threads on this forum I have been able to gain the information I need to do a proper installation myself. Not only are you helping me, but all of the other people looking to do the same. Thanks.

 

this is one nice set up!!

 

Nice setup, like the car pc

 

Is it possible to wire a 12V remote turn on lead for my three aftermarket amps from the stock amp setup? If so which wire should I tap into? I notice there is a remote turn on (red/yellow) going from the HU to the amp on the black 20 pin connector, and another 12V lead (white) running off the grey 14 pin connector. Which one should I use?

 

thats looks noiiiiceeee

wanna do mine?

 

I am going to run three amplifiers, so can you splice three wires from the one fuse line? Or would you need three separate lines?

Where do you plug that unit into? Just any open slot? I am guessing it gives you a 12 volt signal?

 

You can use the one wire for the 3 amps.

I think some one mentioned that you can use slot #29

 

1. If I tap into slot number 29, what size fuse will I need to protect my amplifiers, and the rest of my car's electronics?

a. Alpine amp - 75 amp fuse
b. Alpine amp - 20 amp fuse
c. Pioneer amp - 25 amp fuse

2. I have three amplifiers, will I need a relay to run off this 12V line from the fuse box, or can I just simply split the single line three ways?

3. How do you know slot 29 is safe to use? Is it in the service manual somewhere?

 

The wire you are running is a very low amperage, <5 amps. That wire will vever see the load of the amp itself. It is only a trigger (relay coil pull in) type signal.

Before upgrading my system, I tapped off the cigarette lighter wire and it triggered 2 amps in the trunk

 

I have hooked up my system using a remote turn on unit that uses the speaker level inputs to convert to a 12 volt line. I have that line running to a relay which distributes it to my three amplifiers.

I am noticing that my amp for my subwoofer cuts out when there is a heavy demand for bass notes. The Alpine amp is brand new, and I doubt there is any problems with it. The main leads are wired perfectly, so I am wondering if I need a more direct source for my 12 volt lead, such as the fuse box or the the 12 V wire on the back of the head unit.

I am thinking of using this unit ATC Fuse Box Circuit. Do I need a fuse to have it function? I would like to have a fuse to protect my fuse box in case of a short circuit.

Which one plugs into the fuse box the atc or mini atm?

 

Hmm, never heard of using a line out converter for something like that. I would be more comfy using a full 12V from an ACC line since you will most likely always have the head unit on when the key is on. I'd be worried that the line out signal is too variable and may dip below the latching voltage of your converter.

 

Would an ACC line from the fuse box suffice?

 

Fulani, I looked at the fuse box, and slot 29 is occupied with a 7.5 amp fuse and the diagram labeled it IG VBSOL

 

Yes indeed. All you want is 12V when the key is on at this point.

My setup uses th eamp trigger from the aftermarket head unit but you want to not tear into the dash, right?

Yes, an ACC line will be perfect.

 

I just finished a full scale install of all my speakers, power, etc. I am so tired. I think I would break something if I dug into the head unit. I already ran a line to the fuse box, I am just not sure of what fuse slot to use. They said 29 is good, but I checked it and it is occupied wiith a 7.5 amp fuse and the diagram labeled it IG VBSOL. I am spinning wheels at this point.

 

Remember that the current draw for the trigger is very low amp, most likey less than .5 amps. Try tapping into the fuse that says BACK UP. I forget which number that is. It's 7.5 A. You aren't going to blow the fuse with the minimal load you are adding

 

I would preferably like to tap into a slot that is already open. I am wary of sharing lines with other stock electric devices. I may just bite the bullet and tear into the dash. Do you know of a good link that details the head unit removal? I know it is the yellow wire with the red stripe that I need, but from which connector plug?

 

What I did initially was tap into the cigarette lighter circuit.

Fuse 31 is an open fuse slot, hot with key on. There should be nothing tied to it.

 

I notice that there isn't a fuse in slot 31, but it is labeled IG OP2 on the fuse cover. Do you know what that stands for? Any manuals that can reference that?

 

It is wired to nothing on the load side, therefore, a spare socket.You can use it freely

 

Do you know what size amp I should use? 5, 7.5, 10?

 

Use a 5 amp though a 2 would be better

 

I tried the radio, and ACC fuse, but they are constant! I tapped into slot #20. It is labeled IG washer, a switched fuse. I looked it up in the 2004 electrical manual KOP sent me, and it said it controlled the mirrors, windshield washer, and rear view dimmer. I hope it is the same for 2008. It has a 7.5 amp fuse, so I hope this will suffice. So far the system works good with no amp shut downs. I will have a good test tomorrow when I go for a long ride.

 

I'm glad you found a solution. I doubt you'll have any problems. Having a stable 12V trigger signal is what you needed to hold those internal amp relays latched in.

How does it sound? Are you happy with your upgrade? I went the other way and love the new sound. I was listening to The Beatles Love DVD-A last night. Holy Shit! I thought i was in my home theater room. To me, it is a night and day difference but extreme as an install.

 

Clean work as usual !!!!

Bad ass TL !!

Vmt

 

Wow that looks good bro. I love the simplicity of your installs. Good work.

 

KOP, did you install a capacitor, or a different battery to run all of that power? Do you have any power issues? I installed an MRP-F600 4 channel amp (100Wx4), along with a small 100 watt mono amp for the subwoofer, and the voltage is dropping on both of em due to the strain on the battery.

 

How do you know that the voltage is dropping on the amps?

 

I'm running close to 2000w and have no power drain problems, no capacitors or other gear...our cars should be able to handle 500w with no issues at all.

 

No Cap. I purchased a Optima Yellow Top more than a year ago. Everything runs great. Lights are bright, bass is strong, no start up issues..............

............ I hope I didn't jinx myself.

 

did you have navi before?

 

No Navi,

Here's a link to my other audio mods.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181849

One of the good things about this CarPC is that I can upgrade my navi software. Iguidance is coming out with a new version.

Here's a link to my GPS software

http://www.inavcorp.com/index.php

 

wow you are choking that sub in that small box

 

Sorry for a noob question but how is the rattle, if there is any at all?

If there was rattle what did you do to stop it?

 

holy thread bump batman

 

What i love the most is that dam Comp in your car. Thats sick, it would work great with my Smart Phone Mobile Hotspot... You should make a thread about how u did this and if you have one already send me the link