My Third Audio Install....My last
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
My Third Audio Install....My last
OK,
I think most people remember this install from awhile back.
Well after my six channel JL audio amp blew a channel I decided to upgrade my amps to Alpine PDX amps. I did this install.
I was never really happy with it. It did not seem to flow very well. It was simple but not exactly what I was looking for.
I decided about 3 weeks ago to rip everything out and start over. I was aiming for something more integrated and still gave me access to my spare.
Here is the basic frame work of the new install. This fits into the existing floor of the trunk. The amp rack sits on this and once all the wires are disconnect from the amps it can be removed from the trunk if needed. Once the floor was made it was just a matter of adding the beauty boards on top.
I originally had all the crossovers in the trunk. I moved the fronts to behind the glove compartment and rears to behind the OEM molded carpet next to the XM unit. I have the center channel connected to the stock amp.
The back of the trunk holds the sub in the middle. The power, ground, remote wire and LED distribution block are on the left side. The right side holds my carPC with a giant 120mm LED fan for cooling. The original sub enclosure was changed for something angled slightly up and out of the trunk. The PC, Distro block and amps are under some plexiglass.
While I had the computer out of the car I decided to do some upgrade to it as well. I added WiFi. I connect to my home network and can access local traffic and weather before I leave the house. Actually, I have complete internet access.
I still have a couple things left to do.
Add more dynamat to the doors.
Add wooden mounting rings to the door speakers
Adjust the tweeters for better imaging.
More pics later.
I think most people remember this install from awhile back.
Well after my six channel JL audio amp blew a channel I decided to upgrade my amps to Alpine PDX amps. I did this install.
I was never really happy with it. It did not seem to flow very well. It was simple but not exactly what I was looking for.
I decided about 3 weeks ago to rip everything out and start over. I was aiming for something more integrated and still gave me access to my spare.
Here is the basic frame work of the new install. This fits into the existing floor of the trunk. The amp rack sits on this and once all the wires are disconnect from the amps it can be removed from the trunk if needed. Once the floor was made it was just a matter of adding the beauty boards on top.
I originally had all the crossovers in the trunk. I moved the fronts to behind the glove compartment and rears to behind the OEM molded carpet next to the XM unit. I have the center channel connected to the stock amp.
The back of the trunk holds the sub in the middle. The power, ground, remote wire and LED distribution block are on the left side. The right side holds my carPC with a giant 120mm LED fan for cooling. The original sub enclosure was changed for something angled slightly up and out of the trunk. The PC, Distro block and amps are under some plexiglass.
While I had the computer out of the car I decided to do some upgrade to it as well. I added WiFi. I connect to my home network and can access local traffic and weather before I leave the house. Actually, I have complete internet access.
I still have a couple things left to do.
Add more dynamat to the doors.
Add wooden mounting rings to the door speakers
Adjust the tweeters for better imaging.
More pics later.
#3
Honda Noob
wow!!! i want the second install. it looks like it needs in someone's HT system.
whatever you have left from that install that you want to get rid of...i'll take off your hands right now.
whatever you have left from that install that you want to get rid of...i'll take off your hands right now.
#5
Looks real nice How does it sound? Is there plexi covering the amps or are they exposed to the trunk/elements? If I get a chance, I want to hit one of the so cal meets this spring/summer to check out your work...
#7
all work and no play
I really like the look of the second incarnation of your system, but the third flows better with the trunk....if you changed the color of the trunk side panels to match the tan that would have looked badass IMO both are sick tho!
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the comments guys.
There is plexi covering the amps, distro block and PC. It sounds good to me chicoOG but I never seem to be satisfied and I am always looking for more things to do to it.
Sorry Nitropwd, the old stuff is trash
jptl04, I cant wait to see you creation. You do some excellent work too.
MWalsh9152, I could always make a different set of beauty boards for it since I already have the templates. One for everyday use and one set for show.
Wait a minute. I thought I was done with this stiff and now you got me thinking again MWalsh9152. Thanks for the idea, time to start cutting again.
There is plexi covering the amps, distro block and PC. It sounds good to me chicoOG but I never seem to be satisfied and I am always looking for more things to do to it.
Sorry Nitropwd, the old stuff is trash
jptl04, I cant wait to see you creation. You do some excellent work too.
MWalsh9152, I could always make a different set of beauty boards for it since I already have the templates. One for everyday use and one set for show.
Wait a minute. I thought I was done with this stiff and now you got me thinking again MWalsh9152. Thanks for the idea, time to start cutting again.
#10
Moderator
Just have to add my compliments as well. My days of big custom stereos are over, but I can still appreciate a solid install, and that's definitely what you have. Well done.
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jayekub
Great looking install. Does the amp rack and sub just sit in the slot there, or is it bolted into the trunk
in some way?
in some way?
#21
Cruisin'
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Cool. I've been working on finding a reasonable way to secure my setup in the trunk. I
drilled a couple holes and put in expansion (well) nuts. As for something that's
easy to undo--I saw some bolts with large plastic handles attached to them last time I was
at the hardware store. They're very similar to the plastic things that hold our trunk lining in. I've been thinking those would be a good way to make things easily removeable.
drilled a couple holes and put in expansion (well) nuts. As for something that's
easy to undo--I saw some bolts with large plastic handles attached to them last time I was
at the hardware store. They're very similar to the plastic things that hold our trunk lining in. I've been thinking those would be a good way to make things easily removeable.
#22
2008 NBP TL
I have a few questions for all of you installer pros out there. I plan on installing an Alpine MRP-F600 amplifier. Before you answer be advised that I am on a budget, and I cannot afford the Cleansweep or 360...yet.
1. The Alpine amp's manual recommends 4 gauge power wire. I plan on installing two amps, and running a 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the distribution block. My second amp is going to get an 8 gauge (recommended) wire from the block, but what should I run off the block to my Alpine? Will it matter? Should I run 4 gauge from the battery and the distribution block? If I use 8 gauge from the block, will it hinder performance?
2. Since this is such a new nifty amp, should I use the speaker line inputs on the amp instead of the LOC? Will it be better?
3. If I do use the speaker line inputs in the amplifier, would I still need to hook up a remote turn on line? I was hoping that the amp would sense the speaker level power and convert it to 12V. Wishful, but I doubt this scenario.
Thanks guys, I love this site.
1. The Alpine amp's manual recommends 4 gauge power wire. I plan on installing two amps, and running a 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the distribution block. My second amp is going to get an 8 gauge (recommended) wire from the block, but what should I run off the block to my Alpine? Will it matter? Should I run 4 gauge from the battery and the distribution block? If I use 8 gauge from the block, will it hinder performance?
2. Since this is such a new nifty amp, should I use the speaker line inputs on the amp instead of the LOC? Will it be better?
3. If I do use the speaker line inputs in the amplifier, would I still need to hook up a remote turn on line? I was hoping that the amp would sense the speaker level power and convert it to 12V. Wishful, but I doubt this scenario.
Thanks guys, I love this site.
#23
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by tech14
I have a few questions for all of you installer pros out there. I plan on installing an Alpine MRP-F600 amplifier. Before you answer be advised that I am on a budget, and I cannot afford the Cleansweep or 360...yet.
1. The Alpine amp's manual recommends 4 gauge power wire. I plan on installing two amps, and running a 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the distribution block. My second amp is going to get an 8 gauge (recommended) wire from the block, but what should I run off the block to my Alpine? Will it matter? Should I run 4 gauge from the battery and the distribution block? If I use 8 gauge from the block, will it hinder performance?
2. Since this is such a new nifty amp, should I use the speaker line inputs on the amp instead of the LOC? Will it be better?
3. If I do use the speaker line inputs in the amplifier, would I still need to hook up a remote turn on line? I was hoping that the amp would sense the speaker level power and convert it to 12V. Wishful, but I doubt this scenario.
Thanks guys, I love this site.
1. The Alpine amp's manual recommends 4 gauge power wire. I plan on installing two amps, and running a 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the distribution block. My second amp is going to get an 8 gauge (recommended) wire from the block, but what should I run off the block to my Alpine? Will it matter? Should I run 4 gauge from the battery and the distribution block? If I use 8 gauge from the block, will it hinder performance?
2. Since this is such a new nifty amp, should I use the speaker line inputs on the amp instead of the LOC? Will it be better?
3. If I do use the speaker line inputs in the amplifier, would I still need to hook up a remote turn on line? I was hoping that the amp would sense the speaker level power and convert it to 12V. Wishful, but I doubt this scenario.
Thanks guys, I love this site.
1. Good amp selection. You can't go wrong with Alpine. Run what is recommended. From the block run 4 to your alpine and 8 to your other amp. Your alpine is drawing more juice so it needs a bigger power wire.
2. Hard to say which is better. In theory less devices in the signal path the better. I have a Navone LOC I no longer need since I replaced my OEM HU with an aftermarket Pioneer. If you need it PM me. Cleansweep or 360 not needed.
3. Tap into the fuse box for the remote turn-on. I forgot which fuse, maybe somebody can chime in. You can also add a switch in this line to turn the amps off whenever needed (valet switch). I have mine next to the mirror adjustment/ VSA buttons.
#26
King of Pain- You are running Aftermarket HU?!! Please post pics!!!!
And to answer Tech14's Question Number 3 - Tap into fuse 29, It is unused and turns on when key is set to ACC or Run.
And to answer Tech14's Question Number 3 - Tap into fuse 29, It is unused and turns on when key is set to ACC or Run.
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Fulani has a TL
King of Pain- You are running Aftermarket HU?!! Please post pics!!!!
And to answer Tech14's Question Number 3 - Tap into fuse 29, It is unused and turns on when key is set to ACC or Run.
And to answer Tech14's Question Number 3 - Tap into fuse 29, It is unused and turns on when key is set to ACC or Run.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181849
#31
SC TL to RS4 to 911
I forgot to say I love how you set your Double Din, I ordered the trim panel to follow you then I decided to go with another option! As a person that likes custom installs, I hope you can tell me how you feel about my setup once I get the finished pic's up!
#34
2008 NBP TL
Originally Posted by King of Pain
Very good questions.
3. Tap into the fuse box for the remote turn-on. I forgot which fuse, maybe somebody can chime in. You can also add a switch in this line to turn the amps off whenever needed (valet switch). I have mine next to the mirror adjustment/ VSA buttons.
3. Tap into the fuse box for the remote turn-on. I forgot which fuse, maybe somebody can chime in. You can also add a switch in this line to turn the amps off whenever needed (valet switch). I have mine next to the mirror adjustment/ VSA buttons.
#35
2008 NBP TL
At what point does a car stereo system require a capacitor so the battery and alternator don't get fried? Is it determined by the total amount of RMS wattage your amplifiers are putting out? I am looking at 600 watts for mine when it is installed.
#36
200,000 mile club
Join Date: Jul 2007
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King, don't you love how your thread is resurrected? I remember seeing this a while back and noticing not to many people commented on this fine install. I love it all and would really love to hear it.
#37
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mmade22
King, don't you love how your thread is resurrected? I remember seeing this a while back and noticing not to many people commented on this fine install. I love it all and would really love to hear it.
tech14:
I'm no expert but I'v been using an Optima Yellow Top battery for over a year now with no cap. I have the 2 amps plus the CarPC in the trunk, no power issues so far. Car starts up just fine and no light dimming when I crank the tunes.
Get one of these to tap into the fuse box,
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/atcfua.html
I use a switch similar to this as a valet switch:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
#38
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Acuraluvr
shit. amazing man. how many hours?