MAJOR concerns while installing sub
#1
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MAJOR concerns while installing sub
last night while installing a sub in a 6 hour old 2005 TL, the immobilization locked the vehicle out. this occured while using a lead tester to find an acceptable accosory wire for the remote switch. if you are planning to install a sub in this car, you need to be aware that the computer can sense ANY tampering done to the wiring and if you touch a wire that sets off the immobilization, you will be making a trip via flatbed to your local dealer..... i have searched thru a few of the threads here AFTER the problem occured and found that several owners have had similar occurences and also some other symptoms, but all related to installing the remote wire. i highly suggest you do some research or have it installed by a shop that will pay for any damages incurred by the work. the dealer was cool about it, they took the car, paid for the flatbed, issued a loaner, and are doing the work for free under warranty only because the warranty does not specifically state that aftermarket stereo tampering is not authorized, however they gave me a strict warning that if this VIN showed up for the same or similar problem, it would not be free next time. if there is ANYONE out there who can 100% guarantee that they know for a FACT what is a good wire to use for the remote, please share. oh, and by the way, the work that is required is a new program for the computer and reprogrammed keys. so that would probably cost alot.... avoid it by getting the info first. i once considered myself to be a proficient installer, however the technology going into today's cars is just getting to be too much. good luck!
#2
Instructor
If you were just looking for a wire that's hot when the car is on, you could have grabbed it from the fuse box. If you wanted the radio remote on, you could have grabbed it from the amp in the front passenger foot well. I remember seeing at least one thread here that listed all of the wires by color going into and out of the amp. I'm glad the dealer is taking care of you though.
#3
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Lunchbox, as a guy who has been in the 12V install vield for almost 2 decades, I gotta tell you, I don't think they are telling you the whole story. Testing these wires with a voltmeter is NOT going to cause that. Using a test light on a CAN bus could, or poosible on the security wire - the TL HU does have a "Security " wire on the back.
It is ILLEGAL to void a warranty for adding aftermarket stereo equipment. ILLEGAL. Federal law.
If the TL works like the TSX, then the wire you want is in pin A1 of the back of the HU, and is Yellow/Green. According to the wiring diagram it sends 12V to the FM amp when the HU is ON, or when the FM is on (Digital Voltmeter testing required, just like the mechanic would do). The TSX FM amp is on all the time, and that OP in the TSX also runs the OE amp turn on, and can take an aftermarket amp turn on with no ill effects.
There is also a C11 pin Red/Yel that turns on an amp. I suspect that it works the same way, and should be tested the same way. It's in B7 in the amplifier... I don't know where that is, but you might.
The A4 Red White is listed as a security input. I suspect that cutting this wire triggers the code and might trigger the alarm.
I understand that this was no fun, but I suspect that this shop was NOT using a voltmeter properly. I am NOt giving you any guarantee, I am just telling you what the 2004 Acura wiring diagram says.
It is ILLEGAL to void a warranty for adding aftermarket stereo equipment. ILLEGAL. Federal law.
If the TL works like the TSX, then the wire you want is in pin A1 of the back of the HU, and is Yellow/Green. According to the wiring diagram it sends 12V to the FM amp when the HU is ON, or when the FM is on (Digital Voltmeter testing required, just like the mechanic would do). The TSX FM amp is on all the time, and that OP in the TSX also runs the OE amp turn on, and can take an aftermarket amp turn on with no ill effects.
There is also a C11 pin Red/Yel that turns on an amp. I suspect that it works the same way, and should be tested the same way. It's in B7 in the amplifier... I don't know where that is, but you might.
The A4 Red White is listed as a security input. I suspect that cutting this wire triggers the code and might trigger the alarm.
I understand that this was no fun, but I suspect that this shop was NOT using a voltmeter properly. I am NOt giving you any guarantee, I am just telling you what the 2004 Acura wiring diagram says.
#4
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thanks
hey guys i appreciate all your help. unfortuately the guy who i was doign the install for was so scared by taking his car to the dealer that now he doesnt want to put a stereo in it anymore...but at least we got some good info for the future if i ever have to do another TL or if anyone else is thinking about doing the install, they too can learn the easy way before taking it to the dealer ...... as far as why i didnt just hook it up to the remote lead from the stereo as normal, he has the navigation system in his TL, and i know that thing is pretty expensive and by looking at the way it is mounted in the dash, i thought it would just be easier for me to find a secondary accesory lead. i found a good lead, the stereo worked fine, but apparently it was a lead that had something to do with security, cus after i had the whole system installed, thats when the car would not start anymore. i dont know, all i know is that my first install in a TL was not a very good experience.....
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