Please Help,

I have searched and searched but can not seem to find an answer. I was upgrading my speakers and tested each one as I installed to make sure they worked. I started with the dash, both tweeters and the center, they all worked. After I began to install the door speakers something must have happened because not I do not have front left or right speakers or tweeters. The center up front works along with the back L/R and Sub.....I checked all fuses under the hood and the drivers kick panel.

Any Ideas??? Is there any other location for the amp fuses? or maybe a relay? I refuse to put my car back together until I get these speakers working so Please Help....

 

Sometimes the speaker on my driver side door doesn't work and all I do is grab black connector on the door and wiggle it around until I hear music come from the speaker..i dont know what's it called but when you open the door you see it...lol hope that helps

 

All speakers worked until I started replacing the them. It is both door speakers and both tweeters in the dash that are no longer working.

-On a side note, the OE tweeters and center are 4ohm and I replaced them with 2ohm Reference series. Spoke with Crutchfield and they assured me that because the factory amp put out 2ohms to the rest of the speakers in the vehicle that it would be stale at 2ohms to sun the tweeters and the center. I did test these 3 before I replaced any other speakers and they did work.

-Also, there was a crossover of sort on the tweeters, I cut the wire to shorten the slack and installed in backwards at first, though it still produced sound, i removed it and reinstalled it the correct way. After this the dash was done and working until I moved to the doors and this is when things went wrong.

 

So I Disconnected the amp and checked it out visually and it appears to be ok. when I plugged it back in the right speaker crackled a bit so I turned the radio to the front speakers and there was some sound for a second or 2. I then shook the foor and it was in and out. I assumed something was loose so I pulled the speaker out to inspect. All looked good. I then grabbed the old speaker and tapped it into the right outputs from the amp to see if I had a bad connection between the amp and the speaker somewhere. I got nothing. I then checked the read ch. to see verify my method and it worked on the rear out put.


This is weird. What would cause me to not have anything coming from the amp?

 

Tested my little speaker off of the input black/white harness that feeds the amp the signal and I get music when I tested the black and the grey wire(front right)

Does this mean my amp is shot?

 

That's not how it works. Just b/c something is 2ohm stable doesn't make it 1ohm stable. That's why all these people jumped on the little RF amp bandwagon and are blowing their shit up right now. Just doesn't work like that

 

So you tested the pre-amp signal correct? That rules out the HU or some connection from HU to amp. It's either the amp, or a bad connection somewhere. What amp are you running? Pics of settings would help too..just to make sure you have everything right.

 

There is a crossover missing in the mix....

If you connect two speakers 2 ohm stable each in parallel you get 1 ohm...

Midspeaker/tweeter need to have a crossover so the music goes to the certain speaker. ie. a 200 hz soundwave should go to the midspeaker in the door panel; and a 1,000 hz soundwave should go to the tweeter. Numbers are all a guess, but should help you understand slightly.....

 

I'm using the factory amp with upgraded speakers.

I was told that the front(door /tweeter) use one ch and the are split through a block in the dash somewhere.

So the factory door speakers are 2ohm and the tweeters are 4 ohm

I replaced them with a 2ohm door and a 2ohm tweeter.

If I blow the amp my using 2ohm dash speakers who would the back and the 2ohm center still work?

And when I pulled the amp and plugged it back in, I got audio to the doors for a brief second then, It was just a bit of in and out static as I shook the door, then nothing.

 

How did you wire it? For the comp set, it should go from the stock amp to the crossover and from the crossover it splits between the mid and tweeter.

If you just removed the stock tweeter and inserted an aftermarket one without the crossover, you blew the new tweeters and you basically have a short causing the mids not to work either since they run off of the same channel.

Try disconnecting the tweeters and see if the mids play.

FWIW, the stock amp sends signal to a junction behind the glove box. From there it's split betwen the tweeter and mid. There is no crossover in the stock system except for a cap built into the stock tweeter to keep the low frequencies out. The stock mids are recieve the same signal as the tweeters, no lowpass on them. If you throw an aftermarket tweeter into the system as is with no aftermarket cap or crossover you will blow it.

 

The tweeters were Infiniti 1" they had a black pack with them I wired in.

I'm gonna try to disconnect them to see what happens.

That's wierd. I thought I've seen people on here replacing just tweeters and the center.

I'll let you know what happens when I remove the tweeters.

Thanks.

 

You can remove the tweeters, but there is nothing to keep them from playing full range. I'm not quite sure what purpose the box behind the glove box serves, but you most likely blew them if you didn't put a cap on there.

Did you just buy separates or a complete component set?? If you purchased separates, caps can be had at PartsExpress for cheap, but you need to know how they work to make sure you're getting the correct crossover/cutoff.

 

Separate.

Tweeters were infinity 1031T.

They came with an inline filter...

(In-line Filters: Each in-line filter features a 2.5 kHz high-pass filter for the tweeter.)

Would this serve the same as the cap you speak of?

 

imo...bad idea to swap tweeters with different ohm ratings. If you look at the math ohms are calculated by the following equation: Ω=V/A. This shows that swapping the tweeters with different ohm ratings without changing the crossover or just completely taking the crossover out will more than likely blow the tweeters due to either the voltage or amperes being too high for the new tweeters to handle.

I would recommend putting all stock speakers/items (not just one) back in and take out the "new" speakers. This will test whether it is the amp/amp connection or the speakers.

While researching a little bit on this issue I found this thread on another website:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ny-issues.html

 

I disconnected the tweeters to see if the door speakers would work and nothing.

I tried to connect one side back to the old tweeter(What was left of the wire) and still nothing out of either.

I am going to go and test the tweeters to see if they are working.

 

Tweeters get signal from the input line to the amp from the radio. So they do not appear to be blown.