When i hook up the LOC to the Stock Sub Wires do i split the wires so there still hooked up to the stock sub and the LOC?

 

remove stock sub.

 

ok so there will be a hole where my stock sub use to be? or can i just leave it there so it doesnt look empty

 

Does it really matter how it looks?

 

I think Justin meant "Disconnect" stock sub. It can remain in place. Thats how I have mine.

 

the hole is covered up from the top and bottom so no will will ever see a hole there. If you are going with an after-market sub then it's going in the trunk right? If it is, removing the stock sub will allow more bass to enter the cabin. Also opening up the pass through in the back seat will help.

 

You don't need a LOC. Just wire the stock wires into some RCAs and put them into your amp. I have mine this way on both TLs.

...or use high level inputs if you amp will take them.

On RCA cables, the the positive is in the center and the negative is the outside ring.

 

Be careful! Only plug in amplified inputs into amplifiers with a HIGH or LINE level input! If you amplifer does not have high level inputs it could damage it or the system may not even work!

 

Umm no....that is a poor and potentially dangerous (to your equipment) method to use.

 

I imagine that you guys have taken a volt meter to the 3G TL stock sub channel and measured the wattage and voltage of the signal? I have. Mine were variable at about 2.5 volts and rarely ever goes over 20 watts, even at full tilt. Any decent quality amp will take a signal in that range through. I have both of my TLs wired this way, but maybe a turd for an amp would have issues.

The only thing that most LOC offers you is a transistor to limit the wattage, and lose a bunch of the signal below 100hz. There are good LOCs out there, but they are expensive.

 

Using a DMM wont give you exact/correct measurments for and audio (AC) signal. To properly do it you need a good oscilloscope (with a constant level input, for example sine wave @ 100Hz). The problem with using a DMM is that the audio signal is not at a constant voltage. I think in the TL repair manual it says the output is around 9Vp-p.

LOC's provide a high resistance (>20K ohms) input (among many other things) for factory amps that will bring the p-p (peak to peak) voltage down to a manageable level.

 

So assuming your amp can accept 9v inputs, I can just splice RCA's to the amplified outputs and be ok? So, for example, I want to amp the front stage, I can take the output after the amp, put RCA's on it and send those back to my amp in the trunk? I'm assuming the fronts will be less than 2.5 volts?

 

The amps that I have will normalize a signal outside of that range (within reason). I am currently using Fosgate Power T1500.1bdcp and Audison LRx. It will treat is like 8V, or whatever the max is. I have both of mine like this and the gains are VERY low because of it. I have used Zapco, Old RF 800a2, 500/1 and an older Zed on this same wiring with no issues.

For the front stage, I use the pre-amp signal wired into some RCAs. It is around .9v (900mv) p-p. My amps will work around 200/400mv to 8v, so this is fine for me. One of the JLs that I use has a low/high V input switch, but on the others, the gains are very high.

You need to check your amps, but most decent ones that I know of will handle both of these situations.

The next time that I go by the Juco, they have some oscilloscopes that can be used by the public. I will try and remember to stop by and measure that stock post-amp sub signal.