Hey, I'm PM'ing a few people so I'll make this a generalized statement, but I'm looking to attempt to install my amplifier, speakers, and deadener. I used to know how to do this in high school but I've been out for of the game for 6-7 years so I forgot. The deadener and speakers are pretty self explanatory, the amp is confusing me. Here's my situation, questions, etc....

I've got a 2004 TL (not sure if it matters), and I currently have a Alpine PDX 1.1000 installed. I'm adding my Massive Audio RK6 components and PDX 4.100 (bridged) amp and I'm unsure of what I need and how to install the amp. I've been searching to find diagrams, etc...but I figure it might be vehicle dependent and since you all have installed your own and know the TL, why not ask! I've called a few shops and to install the amp and just leave it in the trunk will cost me about $70. That includes RCA's (already have anyways), wires, distro block (if needed?), etc. I've also been quoted about $30 to run new wiring to the components (also, if needed if the stock wire isn't sufficient). If that's a good deal, then just let me know and I'll do that and not ask for the help. I'd like to try if I can do it for much cheaper as it would save a college kid some money!

I have, for this install:
- RCA cable
- (2) 3ft 8 ga. wires (Kicker)
- (2) 3ft 4 ga. wires (Kicker)
- 6ft 1/0 ga. wire (Kicker)
- Ground Loop Isolater (not sure I need this though)
- Scosche PDM482 (fused Distro Block with 2 30A fuses. Accepts 1 4ga. and goes to 2 8ga. wires. Not sure if this distro sucks or I need one without fused, etc..buddy had it and he didn't need it so I figured I might)
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Sooo...my question is what's needed to install another amp onto my system, what connects to what, etc. Here's what I've gathered so far but not sure if it's correct:




-Going what this and what I think I know lol, I need a distro block, RCA's, and a ground block?

1. Power wire that goes into amp now needs to be taken out and goes into distro block. Then power wire comes out into 2 and each goes into "power" for each amp.

2. My ground wire is already too short for my liking so this "ground block" might be my best bet. My current ground wire barely reaches past the back seat so I'll take the ground wire that goes into amp now out, into ground block. Ground wire comes out of that into 2 ground wires that will go into "ground" for each amp. This should help me to make my new ground wires long enough, and reduce possible noise.

ARE GROUND DISTO BLOCKS AND POWER DISTRO BLOCKS THE SAME? IS A DISTRO BLOCK THE SAME NO MATTER WHAT....?

3. RCA's...not sure here. I've got a pair of RCA's and it shows they comes out from the head unit and into one amp, which they do already. But I need to take another pair of RCA's and run them from my PDX 1.1000 (RCA's already run to this amp) into my new PDX 4.100?

4. Speaker wire--> Can i just reuse the speaker wire that already exists for the factory components? I can just cut the wires that go to the midbass and use those on my new midbass. Same with tweets.

I'm assuming I'll have to run a new wire from the new x-over in the door to the trunk where the PDX 4.100 will be. Is there a factory x-over I need to disconnect or that I can wire into? A little unsure about the wiring also.




So these a few questions I have so far. I'm going to try and tackle this project (install, deadening, etc) this weekend so I'm trying to get it all ready and make sure I don't fuk something up. If you could just quote within my post/questions then that'd help me to keep track of what you're talking about. I REALLY appreciate it!! You have no idea. Very excited to get back into car audio and hopefully can learn a few things while from you all. I know it's honestly not that hard and I may be confusing myself but if I can get some help then I can tackle it myself and save money. Thanks

 

F my life. I hate being confused.

What I'm super confused about is what I do "speaker wire wise" from taking the old components and amp out of the equation and installing the new components and new amp. I'll still be using the stock amp on the rears and center I guess. I've already got the LOC in there, an amp is installed, etc. Ugh...help

 

Forget a distro block for the ground. Save some money. Scratch the paint, drill a hole and use a nut and bolt for ground.

Run new speaker wire from the amp to the doors.

 

What size speaker wire?? Hopefully I dont have to pull the rear seat to get wire from the rear to the front doors.

So...what do I do with the RCA's? Remote wire? And do I just remove the old mids and tweets or am I supposed to do something at the that factory amp?

I understand that wire goes from amp to x-over, from x-over to mids and tweets. But like you have to splice into the sub wires and do an LOC to make RCA's to sub amp..do I have to do another LOC for this amp or what?

 

I will assume that you have a working amp in the trunk already? I assume that you ran the power wire down the drivers side?

Use the RCAs that you have running your old subs for the 1000.1. Don't touch this unless you want to remove a LOC and hardwire them directly to the sub wires.

Get a new set of RCAs for the components. Get a twisted pair.

Take the power wire out of your current amp and put it into the distro. Then, 2 wires from the distro to the different amps. I would do at least 4ga for the 1000 and 8ga for the 400.1 (4 would be better, but 8 is enough). Ground each amp separately - 4ga for each. Take the current remote wire from your current amp and just hook another wire up (you can connect in inside the amp terminal) to go the new amp.

Take your RCAs and cut off the ends on one side. Wire them to the post-amp wires or LF and RF - you can find wire colors and stuff on this site. I soldered mine with some shrink tube, but connectors would work. Run this RCA from the stock amp to the trunk down the passenger side of the car.

Leave the factor amp - you need it for the center and rears... especially if you have navi.

Run 4 lengths of wire also down the passenger side of the car. Feed the drivers side through the dashboard from the passenger side - make sure that they are long enough. Don't run sound wires next to that power wire.

Wire the crossovers in the trunk with plenty of length of all 4 sets of wire.

Don't mount the amps on the back seat or deck lid or they will keep sound from getting into your cabin. Use the sides or floor.

If you need parts, just go to Wal-Mart and buy a Scooche dual 4 guage amp kit. They are cheap, but copper, and they have distro blocks, connectors and then you would have plenty of wire. Copper is copper.

Tips:
When you take the stock speakers out, just leave the old connectors there. If you ever sell the car, it will be easy to put the stock speakers back in. Put your stock speakers in some ziploc bags and stash them in a closet. Take the stock sub out too.

You will need to punch a hole in the molex plug in the door to get wires for your 6.5s. Be careful.

You can fish wires down from the tweeter hole and find then under the dash - this is easier than trying to hit the hole from underneath (phrasing?).

Leave your crossovers out in the open for a while until you are sure that you like the settings.

If you are going to deaden your trunk, then take out the counterweight in the lid and put 4 screws in the license plate. Take out all of the panels (will need to remove the back seat) and start peeling and sticking. Be careful not to cover up and important bolt holes.

14 ga is fine for speaker wire. You can get a spool of it at Home Depot or Lowes.

Have fun.

 

I'll be tackling installing my RK6's tomorrow morning too...looking forward to hearing how they sound. I will run new speaker wire from the amp to the speakers too...Good call.

It's funny, I was trying to figure out how to help you out, but it seems like you have the right idea already.

 

If you all use a metal bit in a rotary tool, it will eat right through the door metal to get that massive magnet in there. A wood bit will get hot and break.

 

I think I love you right now haha. I've got a few more questions in your post above, if you've got time! Again...thank you soo much.

Nice! I didn't know you ended up getting some. It'll be interesting to hear how our opinions/reviews compare and contrast. What amp are you driving them with? These babies like power. Did you get a speaker baffle for mounting them also? And what about deadener

 

I gotta figure out how to do this damn PDX 4.100 in "bridged" mode too. Oh well, that'll have to wait until last. I searched for it and seemed to get a few different answers on what setting to put on the "input channel". Here's my amp for reference in case anyone just happens to know.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uIL0qMy...PDX-4-100.html

 

If your RCAs are stinger or kicker then they should be fine. Twisted pair are just easier to wire up, but any of them will work. The center of the RCA plug is the positive, so test it out (DMM) to make sure that you wire them up right.

The counterweight is just right out in the open in the trunk lid. 2 bolts and it is off.

Having the 4 lengths of wire is for when you go active, not now. Now you could just run 2 lengths and then keep the crossovers under the dash, but you would be screwed and would need to run new wire if you ever score a cheap DSP.

When you take the rear carpet out, you will see some places where the factory has about a million gold plated wires grounded to a bolt. Just follow their lead, but you will need a bigger bolt than what they used. If you get a kit, or have some old stuff, they usually come with ring connectors that you can put under a bolt. If you have a dremmel, then put a stone on it and grind down to bare metal - it is easy... and none of your amps are super high powered. I don't know if those PDX are noisy or not, but you might get some engine whine if you don't ground everything very well.

The massive xovers look like they have some switches on them... so they look adjustable. I dunno for sure, but you should at least have a minus-something tweeter setting if not even some settings for the midbass.

Make sure that your really clean up the metal shavings after you roto-zip the metal on the doors. I stuff a towel down in there before I start to catch a lot of them. Wrap a mummy-hand with some tape and get in there really good. Any shaving that you don't get will end up on your speaker magnet.

Taking the seat out is in the 3G garage. You can find it under the coil spring lowering threads because you need to take it out to get to the rear towers. The C pillar trim and air bag plugs can be hard - they need to go into the same side that they came out of.

Pay attention to the clips and plastic thingys. If you break a bunch, they are really cheap at the Acura dealer. Remember that you can drive a car around with a back seat for a few days.

Take the rear sub out - that 8" hole is a nice place to get some sound into the car. Be sure and put the upper trunk lid liner back in - I left mine out thinking that it would let some more boom into the car, but I heard a lot of trunk noises like raindrops, etc.

Plan on this taking at least one full day (sunup to sundown) for your first time.

I usually don't mount my amps until I am done tuning if the controls are hard to get to. I dont know how the PDX work, though.

 

When you put the rear seat back in, don't tighten down any bolts until you have all of them started. It is a tight operation where millimeters matter, so make sure that you can maneuver the seat a little bit.

 

Is it required or do I have to take the rear seat out to run wires down the side? I might wait to take the rear seat out and pull the sub until next weekend. I don't want to get overwhelmed and be without a car during the work week.

 

You can take the seat bottom out to run wires - it is super easy.

You DO need to take the back off to get the trunk liners out to deaden the trunk.

You can drive a car without door panels, trunk liners and back seats... just don't take the engine out or anything.

 

Haha k thanks

 

Well the install is almost done! Had to help my dad put up a portion of the fence so that took almost all my saturday. Should have it done by tonight. Putting on tiles on doors and trunk/lid, cutting and fitting the MLV and CCF, and running all new wires is no joke, hard and time consuming shit!


With that said, I have 3 questions and hopefully someone can help so I can finish up tonight.


1. I've ran the RCA's but haven't spliced the end that goes into the RF and LF factory speaker wire b/c I'm not sure how to tell which part of the RCA is positive and which is negative. I've searched online and I get "center is (+) and ring part is (-)" AND "center is (-) and ring part is (+)", so I'm not sure which to believe or how to check.

Once I figure that out, just to be sure, I wire one plug's (+) to my RF (+) and the same plugs (-) to my RF (-)...and same thing on with the other plug with the LF (+) and (-) CORRECT? That's how I tapped into the sub wires using my LOC so hopefully the red wiring labels at the bottom are the ones I need to be using.
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This gives the speaker wire colors to and from the factory amp

@ the Stereo Amplifier in the passenger kick panel in the 20 pin Black & White connector

RF+ Black
RF- Gray
LF+ Green
LF- Blue
C+ Brown
C- Greeen w/White
RR+ Orange
RR- Red
LR+ White
LR- Yellow
SW+ Red w/Blue
SW- White w/Green

Remote Turn-on -> Red w/Yellow
Amp Mute -> Yellow w/Green


In addition ....

@ the Stereo Amplifier in the passenger kick panel with the 14 pin gray connector contains the speaker outputs if you want to utilize the factory wiring.

RF+ Blue
RF- Red
LF+ Light Green
LF- Purple
C+ Green w/White
C- Blue w/Yellow
RR+ Red w/Blue
RR- Yellow
LR+ Brown w/White
LR- Red w/Yellow
SW+ Yellow w/Black
SW- Light Green w/Red

Ground -> Black
+12V -> White
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2. The factory alarm system isn't working now, granted I have the whole drivers side door panel disconnected but not sure if that's the culprit. My passenger side is back on and shuts/opens, etc fine. Everything electrically works fine in the car but the alarm system wont work and the power locks (from the remote) will not work. I'm assuming this is because nothing is connected on my drivers door panel, but just thought I'd check. I assumed that...but even the trunk open button will NOT open the trunk. Hopefully I didn't **** something up


3. Let me first say that I don't think it's this confusing with any other amps, so I'm not sure why Alpine made it this way. I'm unsure of how to go about bridging my PDX-4.100. There's quite a few threads online that have people with different opinions, saying Alpine says different things when they call, etc. Even the reviewer from CA&E was baffled by it! These selections are not on the new amps, so I'm guessing they realized it was weird or something. First, here's my amp:



Now...do I connect the speaker wire and put them in channels 1/2? OR 3/4?

Here's what the manual states:
a) Setting this switch to “1 + 3/ 2 + 4” will sum
the CH-1 and CH-3 input and send it to
CH-3 while the CH-2 and CH-4 inputs are
summed and sent to CH-4.
b) Set this switch to “3/4” to have the inputs of
CH-3/4 accept independent input signals.
An example of this application would be
the use of a head unit with dual pre-amp
outputs.
c) Setting this switch to “1/2” will send the signal
at the inputs of CH-1/2 to CH-3/4 of the
PDX-4.100. This eliminates the need for
“Y”-adaptors when using a head unit with
a single pair of pre-amp output.


I'm not sure where to put the speaker wire, or which switch to use. Here's a thread that has every different answer haha ( http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...x-4-100-a.html). Here's someone that said they bridged the PDX-4.150 and it's the same for the PDX-4.100 (he didn't say which switch to use though):

Inputs: use 2 "Y" RCA adapters, one each for the left and right channels, i.e. your left RCA coming from your HU will be connected to both CH1 and CH2 inputs, the right RCA coming from your HU will be connected to both CH3 and CH4 inputs.
Outputs: left channel will be the + terminal of CH1 and the - terminal of CH2, right channel will be + terminal of CH3 and the - terminal of CH4.

 

I don't know how to bridge the PDX.

The door lock switch probably needs to be installed to complete the lock circuit.

On the RCAs, the center is positive and the outside is negative on the plug. The wires could be different, so use a DMM to test the circuit and find out which is which... or you can get this kind of deal at Radio Shack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102959

 

By the way, I used a 1" MDF speaker ring with .4" recessed and a gasket between the panel and baffle....holy hell the bottom portion of the magnet is close to the window track. I sure hope it doesn't hit!!

 

Does your current sub install have a LOC? If so, put a DMM on the RCAs going into your amp. Check the voltage on 20vdc. If you have it wrong, it will have a - sign before the reading. Check it both ways and you will see what I mean. It doesn't matter what the voltage is, rather the - or +.

 

Yeah my sub is using an adjustable LOC (PAC sni-35). I think that RCA is fine...what would happen if I got them mixed up at the amp? Left into Right and vise versa...

I might just run up to the audio shop close by my house and have them use their DMM to find the (+) and (-) for me. Do the RCA's have to be plug into the amp to be tested for pos/neg on the other side of them (by the factory amp)?

 

I know my products, etc...but I get confused at shit when it comes to wiring sometimes haha.

 

I just called a reputable shop (or so I think) to ask them to test my RCA's (pos/neg) for me, but he said that I'd need another LOC due to the head unit possibly putting out more than like 4V and hurting the amp. I'm not sure if this is correct, or a ploy to get me to buy something. I'd rather just wire it straight into the RF and LF wires as that's easiest and saves $20-30 on an LOC. Just figured I'd ask before I toast my amp by not doing an LOC

 

Just to confirm, the HU put out about .9v (900mv), but I did not test the post-amp signal for voltage. The PDX manual says that it will work with from .2 to 4.0 volts, so you could use the pre-amp signal and turn up the gain. No chance that you are over 4v on the HU signal.

I use the post-amp signal with no LOC for the sub channel and every amp that I have used on it (fosgate power, audison, kicker 2500, old school fosgate, JL, etc.) have not had any issues with the voltage or wattage.

 

Awesome. Thanks JDA. So I can just wire into RF+ Blue, RF- Red, LF+ Light Green, LF- Purple and be okay. Pretty sure that's post-amp. I highly doubt the post-amp is higher than 4V at any time ya know. I'll just take it by there and tell them what you said JDA and hopefully they can just tell me the pos/neg and I'll be on my way.


Still trying to figure out the correct way for bridging this damn 4.100