EvilJoker

I currently have an Infinity Basslink sub out of my last car, that I am going to get rid of, so I can do an IB setup. The Infinity is a 10" with 200watt built in amp. I want something a little louder but not extreme. I am thinking something 300-400 watts. I tried doing a search but may be using the wrong search criteria. I want to see some pics of IB setups. Is it best to mount the MDF on the inside of car or the trunk side? And what is the best size speaker to go with in relation to the opening in the seat to the trunk?

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

Here is a good start CLICK HERE


IHC's, pohljm, eggyhustles, rich20730 and a few others have similar builds. I have a single IDMAX 12 in infinite baffle w/ a JL XD600/1 sub amp pushing it.

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the process of doing my 2nd IB setup. This time I'm going to be using two AE IB15AU subs. If you go from the trunk side you can get a little more height out of the baffle which will allow for 15" subs to be recessed mounted and yet still have enough material to keep the baffle strong. You will want to double or even triple up your sheets of MDF or Ply. Use plenty of wood glue between the sheets be very liberal with it use a piece of card board to spread the glue evenly over the entire surface. Use screws or clamps to tighten the pieces together. How well the pieces are glued together the stronger the baffle will be.
There is one downside to going IB like this which may or may not be a big deal to you but you will need to trim a fair amount off of the ends of your trunk liner pieces about 1 - 2 inches. This obviously will not be reversible. I found that a pair of tin snips worked best for this and allowed me to to take a little off at a time until I got a perfect fit it was a lot easier than using a dremel. With the baffle carpeted you would be hard pressed to know the trunk liner pieces were trimmed. If I ever sell the car I'll most likely remove the baffle and build a frame around the perimeter. With it carpeted nobody would know that it has even been modified unless they climb into the back of the trunk. lol

As far as woofer size. You should really be looking at frequency response and Qtc not the size of the ski pass hole through the back seat.

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

By the way, congrats on wanting to replace the basslink. Wise move. I had one for about 3 days. I don't know how it gets such positive reviews. Sounds horrible in the TL.

EvilJoker

It's actually my third basslink... I had one in my 92 Z28, one in my 91 Z28, and one in my CRV. I was always impressed with what came out of it for what they cost. They just dont hit super hard due to the protection servo on it.

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

I really wanted to like it. Inexpensive, easy to connect to the factory system with the built in amp, small it fits perfectly behind the drivers side wheel well. It just sounded horrible to me, a one note wonder. An IB setup with a cheap 15" sub and 300 watts will crush that basslink in sq and output.

I hate cars

Qts isn't that important. Keep it below .7. I prefer .3-.4 for that quick tight sound. It's going to be pushed up when in a trunk plus if you carry stuff in the trunk the Qtc will be pushed up even more. If you start with a .7 Qts you'll quickly end up in boomy slow bass territory.

If you get one with a low Fs which you should, say low 20s or lower the Qts doesn't matter much. Get as much cone area as possible.

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

Just to add to what IHC said. And he's the one that got me looking into IB. I've modeled more subs than I care to count.
When looking at Qtc, output per watt and flatest response. The AE15's and SPB15's come out on top. I'll be running two 15's not because I want to be heard 3 blocks away but because a pair of them gets the Qtc closest to .7 The added benefit is that I don't have to push them as hard to get the same output as one. 99% of the time I don't have anything in the trunk so I'm not worried about Qtc going up.
The Sundown E15 and RE SEx 15 are two other 15" subs that model really well in our cars. Again to keep Qtc around 7. they need to run in pairs. If you want to go with 12's you'll ideally want to use 3 of them.

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

You've used both Qtc and Qts here which as we know are two different things.
.707 Qtc is generally considered the ideal sweet spot between tight / dry bass and being too peaky or boomy. and is very important in how the bass will sound. But every person has their own preference.

EvilJoker

I've been looking at these 2 speakers...

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_5751P2D...12.html?tp=111

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2067C12...-07CVR122.html

I hate cars

Lower Qtc will mean a better damped subwoofer for the tight hard hitting bass but with a low Fs you get outstanding low end as well. When it gets too high the subs aren't well damped and you get cone ringing and the slow and boomy bass. This ringing will give additional output at the same power but it just doesn't sound good.

The pair of AEs model in the mid .5qtc range in the TL when you factor in the true trunk volume and the leakiness of the trunk. Some consider .5 critically damped and the best for SQ. Low Qtc will actually have more output in the very low sub bass.

One of the best sounding IB setups I've heard in a TL was a pair of old IDQ15s with a .23 Qts. My 12W6 where Qts=Qtc which put it around .46 or whatever the W6 is rated at sounded extremely good. In fact I'm going to change it up soon with a pair of 13W7s. You can shape the sound of the sub with eq and IB is already very efficient so even if you have to boost some areas power requirements are still really low. I'm honestly not sure if you can eq out the cone ringing from too high of a Qtc.

For the OP, why not a pair of 15s. Those 12s you linked to have low xmax and if you're gong to run a single 12 you're going to want something with a lot of throw. A 12W7 would work with plenty output and very nice sound quality.

EvilJoker

I dont want super loud bass, just something a little louder than the stock sub... And I have no idea what qtc or qts is

I hate cars

There are reasons for going with large and/or multiple subs other than SPL. Gregerst touched on some of them. You control the output with the volume knob or amp gain. Go with large subs to take advantage of their benefits and listen to them as loud or as quiet as you want.

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

When I model the AE's in bassbox pro and winisd I get closer to .7 than .5 I'm using 13.5 cu ft volume. The TL's trunk is 12.5 I'm adding another cu ft for leakiness.
On another note I got the subs mounted in the car last night. Amp gain is about 1/3 bass boost off and x-over around 100. I've only had the chance to listen to them for a very short time but Wow I'm impressed. Bass is VERY clean, tight and no distortion. I mainly listen to rock/metal music. Fired up Three days grace chalk outline and it put big smile on my face. Bass sounded so good and blended right in with my mids. I don't know why you'd ever want to change to different subs unless your bored with them? I think I'll be hanging on to these for a long time. But I'm already contemplation changing up my front stage maybe go with 8's in the doors. Not sure how much modifying I'd need to do though. I already had to cut them a little to fit the MM6501's.
If I hadn't read your posts about IB and AE subs I would probably have never gone this route so thanks for that.

pohljm

still waiting to see an AE15 in the black market................

I hate cars

Bikinpunk on DIYMA is about to get rid of his for some new 12W6s.

EvilJoker

good point... I guess I will look at some 15s

dji1809

do you guys know if ae15's are still for sale or not? i was told they were discontinued for automotive about a year or so ago.

niebur3

^^^Actually I was just looking at their website and they have a new ib15au (although the QTS of .7 for the 4ohm version could be just a tad high....it is higher then the older versions). Looks like the 12" and 10" version is not even out yet. You may want to call and ask/check on build times. I know when Ihatecars bought his, the wait time was about 4-5 months. And, I don't see any available in their online store.

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

They started selling them again. Just send an email or call for pricing and availability. The email link is on the homepage. http://www.aespeakers.com/

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

I have the IB15AU's the wait time for me was about 2 1/2 weeks. This was back in November. Supposedly they were going to keep all parts in stock so they could build to order quicker.

I hate cars

The home versions of the IB15 have the .7Qts. Auto is .41.

As far as I know some of the names were changed for clarity's sake but the subs remain the same.

IB15AU is the IB15a, automotive version, different name with a .41 Qts.

IB15HT is the IB15 home version with the .7Qts for home theater. Available in 4 ohm or 8 ohm.


SBP15 is the improved version of the IB15AU or IB15a.

The IB15AU has a low .41 Qts but a high Vas and I think this is why I've felt the need to open my trunk up to the outside world with the pair. The Vas pushes the Qtc up too far. The SBP15 has the same .41 Qts with a slightly lower Vas, probably not enough to make a difference but if I were buying another I might try it.

I waited 5 months for mine but it was worth it. I've seen several cases lately where wait time was only a couple weeks so maybe they've gotten their stuff together.

McCollins23

I've researched IB setups after being pointed in the direction. I have a couple of questions and didn't want to start a new thread. I'll preface my questions first by saying that I have never been an "audiophile" or ever had any aftermarket subs/amps in my cars. I would like a little more bass while listening to "rock" music, and would like to keep this setup "OTD" under $3-400. Is anybody making/selling templates for people? Would this all be worthless if I'm not planning on upgrading any other speakers/amps in my car?

Thanks for any help you guys can give me, and sorry for the hi-jack OP.

Also would like to say that I was planning on doing a ported 8w3 that I'm buying from a friend and a 250/1 amp. I really would like to keep this cost low so I can share the "wealth" with the rest of the mods I have planned this season.

pohljm

my sub and baffle was less than 75 dollars. amp is up to you to keep in budget. no need to purchase a template its like 4 measurements. people should be giving them away if they have them available. need money for sound deadening and sealing too.

I hate cars

What a good IB setup will give you is a very flat response that will play every type of music very well and reach lower than most sealed setups with a lot less power used. I highly recommend the IB15au. It's $199 and does so much so well and 250w will really get one going. These subs are better than many that are double and triple the price. They have a very low moving mass, as low as most 10s and incredibly low inductance. You end up with a very snappy and quick response but incredible low end too. I run a pair (I bought them when they were only $333 shipped to my door for the pair) so excursion is very low. They also weigh only 17lbs.

There's the SBP15 made by the same company for a little more money. It's a very small improvement in performance but it might be worth it to some. Both of these 15s will play as high as you want, literally over 4khz so if you're one of those that like to cross the subs a little higher these will never disappoint. Both have 19mm xmax and 25mm xmech with 825cm^2 of cone area so displacement is pretty good.

Some other ones I've really liked are the JLW6 and W7, just as much if not more than the IB15s but they cost more. The JLs have something I really like, but I can't quite describe it. The 13W6 is a great sub for IB. The 13W7 has almost as much cone area as a 15" and 32mm one way linear excursion and over 4" of peak to peak travel. It can take the place of 2-4 "regular" 12" subs and sound great doing it. The cost is up there but sometimes they pop up used plus just one should have all the output you will need so you might consider that a savings.

On a budget with 250w available, the IB15au is a very good choice, you will be very happy with the sound quality and due to their efficiency they will get loud with little power. The Pyle15 is incredibly cheap, around $40 and everyone seems to like them. I don't know how they would do on 250w though, maybe someone else can help out there.

Also, from my experience, any sub that sounds good in a sealed box will more than likely sound just as good or better IB.

I hate cars

Agreed. A sub and baffle for $75 is amazing and I hear it sounds really good. For those prices I would be tempted to buy 6 of them and put them in a manifold to the cabin for some retardedly loud and low bass.