BukvaMan

Awaiting my IDMAX.V3 12" D2 going to power it with an alpine Pdx.1.600

My amp has only an option of 15hz and 30 hz subsonic switch. Its an IB setup and thinking to go all 600 watts on it.

what are my options ?? lowering power and go 15 or should i not be worried as the sub can take 1000 watts in a sealed enclosure.

I will obviously go by eye and ear as well, but since we are talking subsonic for protection I need some help here

thanx

I hate cars

The 1000w rating is the thermal rating. You'll hit the mechanical limit long before the thermal limit in IB. Thats a good thing. I wouldn't worry about trying to feed it as much power as possible. Once it hits full excursion it can't get any louder whether it's 1000w sealed or 400w in IB the SPL will be the same. I'm on my phone but i'll elaborate tomorrow.

rich20730

It's very unlikely that you'll ever bottom your IDmax on regular music, even without a subsonic filter. 45mm Xmech is a lot. That's almost 2 inches of excursion. If you plan to play test tones or bass cd's then you might want to set it at 30hz just to be safe, but for everything else 15hz should be fine.

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

All you experts...

Should I get the ID MAX 12 in 2ohm or 4ohm. Any Pro's or Con's on either? I ordered the 4ohm already, but I may run two 12's in the future (infinite baffle of course) but want to get my audio build started with one 12 for now.

Have not purchased a sub amp yet, but considering these two (Massive Audio N3 or RF R750-1D). Would like to install this amp uner front seats if possible.

rich20730

The Dual 4 ohm will be a little more flexible. If you get a second D4 you can run the pair at either 1ohm or 4ohms. With two D2's you'd most likely run them at 2ohms since 8ohms probably wouldn't be enough power, unless your amp is one that puts out the same amount of power across multiple impedences.

I'd be hesitant to buy either of those amps. I bought a Rockford Fosgate Prime R500-1 and it was terrible. I couldn't run it for more than about 30 minutes without it overheating and shutting down. Sonic even let me return it after the exchange period had expired because they had so many problems and complaints with that amp. I have a feeling the whole Prime line sucks.

I don't know much about the Massive amp, but I have heard that they have a history of overrating their amps.

If you want an amp that will fit under the seats you should check out the PPI 1000.1 Here's a DIYMA link to someone who's selling both the 900.4 and the 1000.1 on ebay: http://diymobileaudio.com/forum/ebay...-1000-1-a.html

BukvaMan

I ordered mine in DVC 2 ohms. So wired in series will give me an 4 ohm load. Since my alpine PDX puts out 600 watts rms at either 2 or 4 ohm load. I opted for the 4 ohm for better sound quality, damping and its much easier on the amp. Less heat.. If i get two in the future which i doubt i will i could still wire them down to 2ohm load which would be fine.

The main reason i went with the IDMAX was the infinite baffle and output of one that will be plenty for me and less weight also.

eggyhustles

Ruler flat response

rich20730

?

eggyhustles

Was skimming through the topic

Flat response always sounded boring, imo.

Don't know why so many chase it.

rich20730

That depends heavily on context. A flat response in the context of this thread is a good thing. Aiming for the flattest response possible based on the combination of the subwoofer and enclosure/lack of enclosure will likely give you the best results. A final EQ curve that is flat between 20hz and 60hz will sound good to most people. Differences in listening preferences will vary mostly in the relative level of 20hz-60hz in comparison to the rest of the frequency spectrum. That can easily be adjusted by using the remote gain knob on the sub amp.

I hate cars

Agreed. Flat in the subwoofer section is usually good. It's better than the usual hump at 50hz that makes the sub sound slow and sloppy. Most people have to add a lot of eq and power to make it flat. The closer you get to flat before eq, the better.

I hate cars

I thought I would mention that I now belong to the "popped my center channel grill out of the dash on a 25hz note" club lol. I was having a little fun, playing some ridiculously low dubstep and cranking on the subs more than I ever have, making me a little nervous. The dash where it meets the windshield was flexing a lot and eventually the center channel grill popped out and hit the center console. Never seen that before lol. It did only have one clip holding it in but still, kind of neat. I don't plan to do that anymore. Don't want to hurt the subs I waited 5 months for, my ears, or the dash that seems to crack pretty regularly. One guy hit over 140db, 144 I think with these subs IB at a pretty low frequency. Mine obviously weren't that loud but the output is pretty awesome. My trunk lid is pretty quiet even at these levels but the factory spoiler was flexing the trunk lid barely. There are very small spider web cracks in the paint around the mounting points. Another reason not to do this often.

sunny201

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I figured it'd be better to bump this than start a new one. I'm looking into creating an IB setup. I've never had experience with this before. I'm currently running 2 12" Rockford T1s in a 4.3ft^3 enclosure tuned to 34hz. I love the loudness of this but I can't stand the weight anymore. I've been running this setup for almost a year, and similar setups for quite a few years. I'd like to actually start enjoying the performance of my car without all this weight holding me back. I'd say it's easily 250lbs.

So I started doing some research on lightweight enclosures with the use of fiberglass when I read a thread on IB setups. It seems so easy that I feel like I'm missing something, or a lot of things. So I came on AZ and read all the IB setups I found. I feel like 2 15s would be great. I just don't know which subs to go with. Can anyone recommend something that won't take months to get (like the AE IB15s). I don't mind waiting a month. Thanks

I hate cars

It seems most people are getting the IB15 in under a month these days. I also like the JL W6 and W7, they sound very nice. Many people are happy with the cheap Pyle 15 and IDQs have been used for a long time IB. In my opinion if it sounds good in a sealed box its fine for IB.

The good thing about the IB15 is they weigh 17lbs, now called the AU15 or something like that. There's also the SBP15 that has more motor strength but weighs about 25lbs I think.

sunny201

I read where you were saying the w6 was something you loved, but I thought I saw somewhere that you said the W7 wasn't great? I'll shoot AE an email and see what they say for delivery timing. Thanks for the help as always!

pohljm

I am running only a single 15. the "value" Pyle. You younger guys I would recommend dual 15's. just sayin! I am totally happy with the single, but my kids are graduating college and I believe your demands/expectations would be better suited with the dual.

The Pyle allows you to spend $80.00 on drivers for the dual, and will sound exceptional. Then you have some room later when your bored and you want extraordinary! Then you can go with the AE's.

Fezteh

Hi, so I have a ported 12 W 6 v 3 and was wondering if I should face it directly towards the back of the seat just like an infinite baffle, will this work or should I Aim it in a different direction

I hate cars

You'll have to try it to find out. Usually you get more lower bass by facing it toward the rear. I liked the snappiness of facing my W6s forward but I lost a lot of the low bass. I found that by sealing the trunk from the cabin with the box facing forward I gained a lot but not all of the bass back. It definitely sounded more natural facing forward but your results may vary.

More importantly, what is the box tuned to?

Fezteh

okay thanks so you would recommend leaving the stock sub in place as a part of sealing the cab from the trunk?