I guess I am stuck with stock speakers
#1
I guess I am stuck with stock speakers
Installed 1011t tweeter properly and finally. (The first after market audio component on my brand new TL. Everything else is stock.)
Now I am getting constant hissing, static noise from new tweeters even if the HU is off. After some research on this board, I learned that this is due to the fact that the stock amp is constantly on for HFL purpose.
Initially I thought I have bad connection after installing aftermarket tweeters. So I put stock tweeter back in and carefully listened to it. Then yes, the hissing noise is still there but a lot quieter than 1011t. I also could hear it from center channel speaker.
So it's clear than the stock amp is constantly on making this noise all the time which I did not notice until recently.
Anyway, with stock tweeters, I really can't hear the static noise if I am in normal driving position even with engine off. I could barely hear it if I move my ears very close to speakers.
But with 1011t, I can hear it without moving my ears to them. I can even hear it when the engine is running and driving at low speed on good pavement. (It's not loud, you just need to pay some attention to it to hear it)
I am going to try 1011t few more days to see if I can live with that static noise but I am pretty sure that I will have to go back to stock tweeters.
Do you guys all who have after market speakers don't have this problem? If you do, how can you live with it?
Somebody told me that I have a super hearing. But I don't know. I am over 40 years old and as you get older your hearing gets worse if I am correct.
Will covering up some part of 1011t's grill surface with some tape, so having less sound output area would help?
Now I am getting constant hissing, static noise from new tweeters even if the HU is off. After some research on this board, I learned that this is due to the fact that the stock amp is constantly on for HFL purpose.
Initially I thought I have bad connection after installing aftermarket tweeters. So I put stock tweeter back in and carefully listened to it. Then yes, the hissing noise is still there but a lot quieter than 1011t. I also could hear it from center channel speaker.
So it's clear than the stock amp is constantly on making this noise all the time which I did not notice until recently.
Anyway, with stock tweeters, I really can't hear the static noise if I am in normal driving position even with engine off. I could barely hear it if I move my ears very close to speakers.
But with 1011t, I can hear it without moving my ears to them. I can even hear it when the engine is running and driving at low speed on good pavement. (It's not loud, you just need to pay some attention to it to hear it)
I am going to try 1011t few more days to see if I can live with that static noise but I am pretty sure that I will have to go back to stock tweeters.
Do you guys all who have after market speakers don't have this problem? If you do, how can you live with it?
Somebody told me that I have a super hearing. But I don't know. I am over 40 years old and as you get older your hearing gets worse if I am correct.
Will covering up some part of 1011t's grill surface with some tape, so having less sound output area would help?
#2
A lot of guys have aftermarket stuff without the hissing. I have replaced absolutely everything and still have fully functioning HFL.
Covering the grill with tape kind of defeats the purpose of having the tweets in the first place. I've seen some other thread regarding hissing issues and how they were resolved, do a search and see what you find.
Good luck
Covering the grill with tape kind of defeats the purpose of having the tweets in the first place. I've seen some other thread regarding hissing issues and how they were resolved, do a search and see what you find.
Good luck
#3
A lot of guys have aftermarket stuff without the hissing. I have replaced absolutely everything and still have fully functioning HFL.
Covering the grill with tape kind of defeats the purpose of having the tweets in the first place. I've seen some other thread regarding hissing issues and how they were resolved, do a search and see what you find.
Good luck
Covering the grill with tape kind of defeats the purpose of having the tweets in the first place. I've seen some other thread regarding hissing issues and how they were resolved, do a search and see what you find.
Good luck
Try your key at I position with HU off, move your ear close to center channel and see if you can hear hiss from it. I think we all have it.
#5
Please see if I setup these speakers right.
I don't know what is crossover. For 1011t, I thought crossover is glued to the speaker.
There are 4 metal taps for wiring on this speaker as you see from above pic. Two As and Two Bs.
I thought you connect wires to B to use glued crossover and use A to by pass glued crossover.
Am I wrong or right? Does 1011t comes with separate crossover/capacity???
The above picture us not mine but it's exactly how I did. I connected wires to tab B and hooked the other end of wires to existing connector. So there is nothing between speaker and existing connector.
Am I missing something? I bought these speakers as used from ebay and these two speakers are all I got.
I don't know what is crossover. For 1011t, I thought crossover is glued to the speaker.
There are 4 metal taps for wiring on this speaker as you see from above pic. Two As and Two Bs.
I thought you connect wires to B to use glued crossover and use A to by pass glued crossover.
Am I wrong or right? Does 1011t comes with separate crossover/capacity???
The above picture us not mine but it's exactly how I did. I connected wires to tab B and hooked the other end of wires to existing connector. So there is nothing between speaker and existing connector.
Am I missing something? I bought these speakers as used from ebay and these two speakers are all I got.
#6
Please see if I setup these speakers right.
I don't know what is crossover. For 1011t, I thought crossover is glued to the speaker.
There are 4 metal taps for wiring on this speaker as you see from above pic. Two As and Two Bs.
I thought you connect wires to B to use glued crossover and use A to by pass glued crossover.
Am I wrong or right? Does 1011t comes with separate crossover/capacity???
The above picture us not mine but it's exactly how I did. I connected wires to tab B and hooked the other end of wires to existing connector. So there is nothing between speaker and existing connector.
Am I missing something? I bought these speakers as used from ebay and these two speakers are all I got.
I don't know what is crossover. For 1011t, I thought crossover is glued to the speaker.
There are 4 metal taps for wiring on this speaker as you see from above pic. Two As and Two Bs.
I thought you connect wires to B to use glued crossover and use A to by pass glued crossover.
Am I wrong or right? Does 1011t comes with separate crossover/capacity???
The above picture us not mine but it's exactly how I did. I connected wires to tab B and hooked the other end of wires to existing connector. So there is nothing between speaker and existing connector.
Am I missing something? I bought these speakers as used from ebay and these two speakers are all I got.
#7
Yep, you are missing the crossover/capacitors. You were probably getting a lot more midrange than you wanted out of those tweeters. Hopefully they didn't suffer any damage.
Now for your next project, you have to hunt for some inline crossovers at your local stereo stores.
Rad Shack probably still carries some electrolytic capacitors for crossover networks. Cheap way to do the job.
Now for your next project, you have to hunt for some inline crossovers at your local stereo stores.
Rad Shack probably still carries some electrolytic capacitors for crossover networks. Cheap way to do the job.
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#8
Yep, you are missing the crossover/capacitors. You were probably getting a lot more midrange than you wanted out of those tweeters. Hopefully they didn't suffer any damage.
Now for your next project, you have to hunt for some inline crossovers at your local stereo stores.
Rad Shack probably still carries some electrolytic capacitors for crossover networks. Cheap way to do the job.
Now for your next project, you have to hunt for some inline crossovers at your local stereo stores.
Rad Shack probably still carries some electrolytic capacitors for crossover networks. Cheap way to do the job.
I really thank you for going through all the trouble to take that picture. I really appreciate it.
I was almost gave up on using aftermarket speakers but I guess I will try one more time.
BTW, What does that crossover do? What kind of crossover or capacitor should I get?
Also, is there a enough room to put those crossovers and wires under the tweeter? It seemed like a pretty tight space down there.
#9
Some info on crossovers for you. You will need a highpass crossover/capacitor which lets "high" frequencies through to your tweeter.
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=52
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=1
One of these will work to block out some of the lower frequencies. Audiophiles don't look.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102480
Just make sure you seal any exposed capacitor terminals once you solder you wires to it. Use heatshrink or some good 3M Super 33+ electrical tape.
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=52
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=1
One of these will work to block out some of the lower frequencies. Audiophiles don't look.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102480
Just make sure you seal any exposed capacitor terminals once you solder you wires to it. Use heatshrink or some good 3M Super 33+ electrical tape.
#10
Some info on crossovers for you. You will need a highpass crossover/capacitor which lets "high" frequencies through to your tweeter.
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=52
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=1
One of these will work to block out some of the lower frequencies. Audiophiles don't look.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102480
Just make sure you seal any exposed capacitor terminals once you solder you wires to it. Use heatshrink or some good 3M Super 33+ electrical tape.
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=52
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=1
One of these will work to block out some of the lower frequencies. Audiophiles don't look.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102480
Just make sure you seal any exposed capacitor terminals once you solder you wires to it. Use heatshrink or some good 3M Super 33+ electrical tape.
Another question. What if I just use 1021t ? it's 2ohm instead of 4 ohm as 1011t and stock tweeter.
What's going to happen if I use 1021t? Will it be OK?
#11
Team Owner
I may have a solution for you. Check your PM.
#12
You can hook up the 1021t but you still need the crossovers. They might sound a little louder (brighter) than the 1011t's. The factory amp might run a little warmer if you play your music at high volume for long periods of time but I think it will be able to handle 2 ohm tweeters as they would be wired in parallel with your door speakers.
Someone else with the 1021t's might be able to answer that for you for sure. I'm still a rookie member with only around 150 posts under my belt.
#13
Team Owner
You'd only need one capacitor per tweeter and you wire it through the positive wire only.
You can hook up the 1021t but you still need the crossovers. They might sound a little louder (brighter) than the 1011t's. The factory amp might run a little warmer if you play your music at high volume for long periods of time but I think it will be able to handle 2 ohm tweeters as they would be wired in parallel with your door speakers.
Someone else with the 1021t's might be able to answer that for you for sure. I'm still a rookie member with only around 150 posts under my belt.
You can hook up the 1021t but you still need the crossovers. They might sound a little louder (brighter) than the 1011t's. The factory amp might run a little warmer if you play your music at high volume for long periods of time but I think it will be able to handle 2 ohm tweeters as they would be wired in parallel with your door speakers.
Someone else with the 1021t's might be able to answer that for you for sure. I'm still a rookie member with only around 150 posts under my belt.
I'm surprised the 1011s haven't blown yet running a full range signal through them. The one time I did that it took about a second for them to blow.
#14
You'd only need one capacitor per tweeter and you wire it through the positive wire only.
You can hook up the 1021t but you still need the crossovers. They might sound a little louder (brighter) than the 1011t's. The factory amp might run a little warmer if you play your music at high volume for long periods of time but I think it will be able to handle 2 ohm tweeters as they would be wired in parallel with your door speakers.
Someone else with the 1021t's might be able to answer that for you for sure. I'm still a rookie member with only around 150 posts under my belt.
You can hook up the 1021t but you still need the crossovers. They might sound a little louder (brighter) than the 1011t's. The factory amp might run a little warmer if you play your music at high volume for long periods of time but I think it will be able to handle 2 ohm tweeters as they would be wired in parallel with your door speakers.
Someone else with the 1021t's might be able to answer that for you for sure. I'm still a rookie member with only around 150 posts under my belt.
#15
I've run the 1021s and they're just a little "less bright" as the 1011s but really close. The typical Infinity brightness is the reason I switched brands. Not too bad with the stock amp but when cranked with an aftermarket it's bad.
I'm surprised the 1011s haven't blown yet running a full range signal through them. The one time I did that it took about a second for them to blow.
I'm surprised the 1011s haven't blown yet running a full range signal through them. The one time I did that it took about a second for them to blow.
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