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I just finished replacing all my capacitors using all original values (following Post #32) and all I can say is WOW! No more buzzing coming from the speakiz and I can crank up Jimi Hendrix to concert hall pitch (volume) just like I used to do with this car. Even Howard Stern's belches and farts sound alive again!
All parts supplied by Wayne Electronics, Pompton Plains, NJ - $28
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Fall 2012 - audio shop poked, prodded, probed and tested, but came up with no verdict for the buzzing.
December 2012 - I replaced the amp with an A01 (04-06) unit. The buzz eventually returned.
February 2016 - I rebuilt the amp with new caps as described in this thread. The buzz returned late 2017.
This month - I replaced the amp again with an A11 (07-08) unit. The buzz returned this week.
Following this up: About a month ago, at the suggestion of an engineer friend who spend the better part of the last year chasing down EMI in a design, I added clamp-on ferrite beads to each wire harness entering the amp. Before doing that, the buzz was a daily occurrence. Since adding the ferrite beads, the buzzing hasn't returned even once. I'm still skeptical, but that's where things stand.
I think I'm approaching my wits' end with this amp.
Fall 2012 - audio shop poked, prodded, probed and tested, but came up with no verdict for the buzzing.
December 2012 - I replaced the amp with an A01 (04-06) unit. The buzz eventually returned.
February 2016 - I rebuilt the amp with new caps as described in this thread. The buzz returned late 2017.
This month - I replaced the amp again with an A11 (07-08) unit. The buzz returned this week.
In all cases: The slightest tap on the amp--sometimes just touching the wire harness clamped to it--starts or stops the buzz.
Did you figure this out? I replace all the caps in January 2018 which seemed to have fixed things...and now 23 months later it started doing the same thing again. I've checked the soldering and it doesn't appear that anything is loose. I'm frustrated.
Before attempting this DIY, I pulled my old amp and opened it up (pics attached). Nothing looks blown, burned, bulging; however, I have the low volume issue (no buzzing) and the amp gets really hot to touch.
Did anyone experience a HOT amp and replacing the caps resolve it? Also, has anyone who did this DIY still have their amp functioning still?
I want to hopefully get answers as I may consider getting a used one off eBay.
Before attempting this DIY, I pulled my old amp and opened it up (pics attached). Nothing looks blown, burned, bulging; however, I have the low volume issue (no buzzing) and the amp gets really hot to touch.
Did anyone experience a HOT amp and replacing the caps resolve it? Also, has anyone who did this DIY still have their amp functioning still?
I want to hopefully get answers as I may consider getting a used one off eBay.
Originally Posted by kev711
his caps aren't bulging caps like these have a short life span and even shorter with heated environments
Sorry, but I don’t agree with you. I have seen quite a few failed capacitors and these have failed.
I rebuilt three amps in the past year. One had buzzing when temps were below 40, one had extremely low volume, and one...had no issues, I had the parts and was doing preventive maintenance. None of the three amps had any visibly damaged/failed components. All three amps worked like a champ after the repairs were completed.
Appreciate it guys... Really do. At first, I didn't think they were bulging as I've seen failed caps. The caps are probably in the early stages of failure hence why there may be differing thoughts.
I'll go ahead and replace them and see if it resolves the low volume issue. I ended up having to travel for work, so it will be a little while. I'll post updates when I get to it.
I rebuilt three amps in the past year. One had buzzing when temps were below 40, one had extremely low volume, and one...had no issues, I had the parts and was doing preventive maintenance. None of the three amps had any visibly damaged/failed components. All three amps worked like a champ after the repairs were completed.
This is the correct answer. While you have it apart, just do them all. It's less than $20 in parts and should be 20-60 minutes of your time depending on your skills. I did all my rebuilds while on conference calls. It doesn't require much thought/focus, so I was able to pay attention to the calls while doing the repair work.
I should add that you can get the capacitors you need on Digikey (in the US) as well, and the shipping would probably be cheaper and faster than Futurlec. Plus you can get nice, Nichicon top-shelf audio caps and they're still like $5 total.
If you order from Digikey, pay attention to the price breakdowns. It's actually cheaper, at the time of this posting, to buy 25 1uF caps than it is to buy 18 of them.
Thank you so much for this. My amp completely failed. Head unit doesn't produce any sound most of the time. I bought a junk yard replacement and the system works again but with anywhere from a 30 sec to 5 min delay before I get volume. No buzzing. I am considering doing the cap replacement/repair on the original. has anyone know if just doing the 1u and 10u caps will fix it or does it require all cap replacements to make it work. Thanks for any insights especially if you did the repair on a system with no sound.
It looks like some of these are no longer available/obsolete. Would a kind sir be able to re-link to comparable ones? I tried to do this on mouser, and it looks like their similar ones are only good to 85 degrees Celsius, where Digikey had more options available. I'm a noob at this but I feel like I slept at a Holiday Inn last night and have the confidence to try it thanks to you all. Just want to make sure I get the right parts!!!
Just came by to say thanks to chefboyardee and ebs007! I think I referenced both your information the most. I bought a $20 dollar solder kit and a capacitor kit from eBay for around $15 bucks. It had all the caps I needed except for one which was the 100uf 50v. Wasn’t a big deal as I bought that off eBay as well. I was so used to the low level volume as I bought the car used. Thought it was normal until someone told me it wasn’t. So I found my way here to this forum! It was either spend 40 bucks and diy or around 90 bucks for a used amp that could go bad. Choice wasn’t difficult for me. I’m a noob at soldering and to these kind of projects. Took me around 5-6 hours to get the job done and.. it’s working great! Around volume 8 (after the fix) was the equivalent to my volume 40 (before the fix). Sounds great now and is loud! Hopefully it will last a long time! Tested the caps with a digital multimeter to make sure they were good before I popped them in. Anyways, cheers to a successful project and not having to turn down the AC or close the window because I can’t hear my music! Thanks for all the information guys!
It looks like some of these are no longer available/obsolete. Would a kind sir be able to re-link to comparable ones? I tried to do this on mouser, and it looks like their similar ones are only good to 85 degrees Celsius, where Digikey had more options available. I'm a noob at this but I feel like I slept at a Holiday Inn last night and have the confidence to try it thanks to you all. Just want to make sure I get the right parts!!!
and I would link the other but for some reason it’s super long and so just search 100uf 50v capacitor on eBay. I used the rubycon one it was like 10 for 6-7 bucks.
anyway good luck and take your time to do it right! (Hopefully I did!)
DigiKey appears to have some that match the ##uf and 50V ratings - is it as simple as finding the right uf and V? I will do that and try to create an updated post for future users.
DigiKey appears to have some that match the ##uf and 50V ratings - is it as simple as finding the right uf and V? I will do that and try to create an updated post for future users.
02-27-2019, 07:29 PM
