McSlice

Hey all

I will be replacing my door speakers and installing a 10 inch sub in the trunk in the near future. I figure while everything is apart it would be a good idea to apply Dynamat/Second Skin to the door panels and rear deck.

Could anyone give me an estimate on how many square feet to order for this application? I guess if I order too much I could apply some material to the trunk too...

Based on my reading in this forum while everything is apart to run the power and speaker wires, I should remove both the rear speakers and factory sub too.

Does this sound right?

Thanks,
Steve

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

i ordered 20sq. ft of second skin and 1 sheet of overkill.

i was able to cover the rear deck, front 2 doors, and i still have some left over for other various areas (whichever rattles may arise).

i used the overkill sheet to lay on top of the second skin in the front doors.

i was going to order 40sq feet but couldn't justify the cost. luckilly, 20 seems to be enough for the areas i wanted to cover. HTH.

McSlice

Perfect!

Thats just the answer I was hoping for. I didn't want to buy 36-40 sq ft if I didn't have to. Thanks for the quick assist.

Much appreciated.

Steve

PS While we're on the subject, are you happy with the results?

I hate cars

Some of it depends on how serious you are. We might spend $4,000 on speakers and $2,000 on amps to get an ultra low distortion setup and incredibly detailed music only to have it partially ruined with road noise. In this case it's worth it to deaden the whole car. I did vibration mat covering 100% of the doors and trunk lid. Foam in the deck. Vibration mat covering 50% of the floor and Luxury Liner Pro (sound blocker) on the floor board. The car is much quieter inside and you get some of the detail back that you lost before to road noise. Plus it's just nicer having a quiet car when the radio is not on.

If you're more concerned with stopping rattles, follow the advice above.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

yeah the second skin is quality stuff. easy to work with, but make sure you get the rubber roller to smooth it on. i found one on eBay for $15...a must have item.



as far as the results, i don't really know...i haven't finished my audio install so i haven't been able to test everything out yet. but i'm sure it'll work as advertised...people seem to love this stuff.

people say you need more second skin to really cover every square inch of your car, but i didn't have to...nor did i want to. i'm happy with the amount i got. plus i don't have an earth shattering system in my car. just a single 12 w/ front components and a few amps.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

6-8 sqft. per door
10-20 sqft. for the rear deck, depending on how serious your sub will be
40 sqft for the trunk lid, rear quarter panels, and trunk
2 sqft for the backside of the license plate

Second Skin or nothing.

Shark - I'll hit you up tonight via PM

McSlice

Sharksbreath - Thanks for the replies, I'll be sure to get the installation equipment you have recommended.

IHC - I don't have a huge budget and will initially be installing equipment that was in my old Honda Accord. I'm trying to do things efficiently so this is why I figured I would install deadener on the doors and rear deck while everything is apart to remove the factory sub and install components in the front. I'm really excited for my 3sixty.2 to arrive and this is the first DSP I've installed. It will be processing for Focal 165A1's in the front. I know these aren't the best but hopefully I can dial them in nicely with the 3sixty when I get it and make them a little less harsh/shrill then they have been in my previous car. I'll be running more wiring than I need and plan to eventually upgrade the front components and go active so I'll initially mount my passive crossovers in the trunk and run separate wire for the tweeters and door speakers. The majority of my TL stereo knowledge has been based on advice you've posted to other members, so I have to thank you for that!

DeathMetal - Awesome. Thanks for the details, it really helps me plan out this install.

Take care guys, talk to you soon.

illadelph

How long does Second skin shipping take? I was going to order 20 sq ft of the damp pro but i wanted to do tackle the project on saturday and im in NY

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Not a chance, it ships from AZ.

xxx_busa

A door & trunk kit, some ensolite, some CCF & MLV and you be set.

http://www.cascadeaudio.com/car_nois...r_door_kit.htm

http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/su...D00005CC%2D54F

illadelph

Yeah hear that, got it 2-day aired for $40. . . I think $109 for a door pro kit to my door. Oh well at least my set-up should sound 10x better after the ENTIRE door is sealed.

illadelph

I would easily go 20 sq feet. . . I bought the second skin door pro kit and close to 1/2 dynamatt extreme and im still unsure if even thats enough. . . Those that have done did you dampen the inside of the plastic door as well?

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Uhhhh, what do you mean? You're supposed to remove the white plastic cover from the door and skin the steel...unless you're talking about the backside of the door panel? I did a layer of SS OKP on that

illadelph

Yeah i meant the actual door panel, not the steel. I deaden the whole door but was wondering about the actual inside of door panel.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

If you're talking about the door panel, it's really up to you. I applied OKP to the door panel, in retrospect I should have applied it to the door itself, and two layers at that.

Also, while you're in there, it's a good idea to fabricate a wooden baffle for the speaker and caulk it up to seal it nicely. Agin,m this is detailed in my OVERHAUL thread in the PICS section.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I'll have my doors off soon to throw the ID CXS mids in there. I'll take pics of the door with the panel off for future reference. One of these days...I want to make a huge sticky thread with all the noob info for all new comers. All about our stock system, different options for retaining the factory head units, etc. Deadening options. Other forums links, etc etc. I'd LOVE if something like that was on here when I first showed up

illadelph

I deaden both whole doors with Second Skin Pro and used a little bit of dynamatt xtreme i had left. I think I did a pretty good job, mid bass really comes alive when the doors deaden. On certain bass notes, I heard my door panel have a little bit of vibe in them. I don't know how much thicker I could go on the actual metal door bc the clips on the bottom of the door already don't want to stay in because the door has thickened up. I wouldn't really know where to start with trying to matt the inside of the door panel, where everything is plastic.

I hate cars

I did almost the exact same thing. A little Dynamat, the rest Second Skin. I get just a little door panel resonance but now that my midbass only covers 80-350hz a lot of the resonances that I couldn't get rid of are gone.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Trim out around the outer perimeter, this will eliminate the tight interference points.

RBeachTL

You guys are using way too much of this stuff.

Go to:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld

The short story:It's really true and you can test it by just knocking on the panels with your knuckles. When the panels stop ringing, you're done.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

God damn do I LOATHE that site. The ORIGINAL SDS was a test between Dynamat Extreme, SS Damp Pro, and some other products. Somewhere along the line, the dude said, "HEY, I CAN MAKE MONEY ON THIS!" ...and you know what? More power to him for it.

I'm sorry, but SDS absolutely insane theory of shaking a thin steel sheet before and after and calling it empirical testing gospel is about as short-sighted as it gets. I don't see anything mapping out how vibrations are reduced when both magnitude and frequency are changed, which is what we're REALLY after. Moreover, this "test" does not account for varying geometry that dissipates wave energy (aka sound) over multiple contours and exit points, AND (I could go on and on)

But how about this, I'll go with some real world experience: when I applied SS to 3/4 of my liscence plate, it didn't shake vis a vie SDS "test", but the sub kicked the shit out of it. 3 FULL layers later and it doesn't move.

Real world data >>>> empirical testing, ALL DAY.

I hate cars

FWIW, my doors are 100% covered, the door panels are as covered as I can get them. The trunk lid is 100% covered but the floor and roof are 50% covered with with Damplifier and 100% covered with Luxury Liner Pro.

RBeachTL

Dan,

You have to have to look at sound deadening in a systematic (holistic) manner. It's all about adding mass. To me, the basic premise of the site is that a mass barrier is what it takes to keep acoustic vibrations out of the cabin. Thus the SDS emphasis on MLV. As you point out the CLD is just to reduce panel resonances and make a dent in the vibrations that the MLV has to deaden.

As for your license plate; your sub wasn't making it vibrate like a drum top but was making it move as a single rigid body. This rigid body was then making noise as it hit the trunk lid. By adding more mass you were requiring more energy to make the rigid body move. In an attached panel scenario,like a door panel or roof panel, the panel is not going to move as a rigid body and hit anything (at least until you open it). The only thing that you need to do is keep the panel from resonating like a drum top and this is what the mass and foil of the CLD does. But MLV is still necessary to keep the vibrations out of the cabin.

illadelph

Im kind of confused on that, what do you mean exactly? Are you talking on the inside of the plastic door panel?