How difficult to get 8's in the doors?

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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 01:29 PM
  #1  
edzyy's Avatar
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From: Around the way.
How difficult to get 8's in the doors?

Going to be doing an install for a friend once I get back to NY

We're looking at putting an 8 in the door & a 3" wide bander in the pillars.

Can we get an 8 in the door with minimal cutting? Looking at the Beyma 8G40, Faital 8FE200, Or the B&C 8NDL51.
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 02:46 PM
  #2  
edzyy's Avatar
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From: Around the way.
So no one here has put 8's in the doors?
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 03:18 PM
  #3  
xxx_busa's Avatar
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From: Irvine
Easy enough, IHC has 9's
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 10:07 PM
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I hate cars's Avatar
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From: Bakersfield
Credit goes to Kirk for giving me the motivation and how to. You know me from DIYMA.

To fit the Dyn 182 which as we know is called a 10" but has 235cm^2 cone area making it a 9" in cone area. It's only 3" deep with the magnet inside of the 4" vc making the profile a little closer to a typical neo motor midbass than a traditional one.

It was almost as simple as cutting the hole bigger. The sheet metal isn't flat so I used a 1.5" thick mdf ring and screwed it to the opening, bringing the sheet metal pretty much flat and making a good mounting surface.

Cutting the hole that large resulted into it combining with the smaller hole above it. I used cheap sheet metal brackets to create a mounting surface for the speaker in that area where there was no metal. I'm sure thin pressboard or something similar would work just as well.

I flush mounted the drivers to the door with only damping mat between the driver and door metal, no mdf spacer. Because of this I had to space the window track out about 3/8" by inserting washers between it and the door frame. No change in window up/down performance. Without the spacers, the window would still go fully down but it would bump on the magnet once it was about 3" from fully down.

I flush mounted the drivers because I wanted to keep the door panels stock. All I had to modify was trimming the backside a bit along the seams that were a little too close to the speaker. Otherwise the panels are stock with some grinding on the backside.

It was a very easy job and at the same output the 9s rattled the doors less than the 6.5s. Obviously they have the potential to rattle the doors considerably more.

Things I would change if I had the time/money/know how: I would bring the driver closer to the grill on the door card. I would angle them to be a little more on axis but that's only because I like to run them up to 800hz sometimes. I would have put them in the kicks.

I hate compromises but I have not found a way to come remotely close to getting rid of vibrations in the doors. I should have done kicks vented to the outside world so they would only have to be large enough to house the drivers and moved the 3.5s to the upper door/sail panels.

There are pictures on here of mine with the door panels off. I can't search from my phone though.

I know this was kind of vague, let me know if I can help. Are you doing a pro-audio style midbass?

Never mind, just saw you speaker options. I always enjoy reading your pro audio oriented selections. Going to look at those drivers now.

Last edited by I hate cars; Jun 25, 2015 at 10:15 PM.
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