How difficult to get 8's in the doors?
#1
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How difficult to get 8's in the doors?
Going to be doing an install for a friend once I get back to NY
We're looking at putting an 8 in the door & a 3" wide bander in the pillars.
Can we get an 8 in the door with minimal cutting? Looking at the Beyma 8G40, Faital 8FE200, Or the B&C 8NDL51.
We're looking at putting an 8 in the door & a 3" wide bander in the pillars.
Can we get an 8 in the door with minimal cutting? Looking at the Beyma 8G40, Faital 8FE200, Or the B&C 8NDL51.
#4
Team Owner
Credit goes to Kirk for giving me the motivation and how to. You know me from DIYMA.
To fit the Dyn 182 which as we know is called a 10" but has 235cm^2 cone area making it a 9" in cone area. It's only 3" deep with the magnet inside of the 4" vc making the profile a little closer to a typical neo motor midbass than a traditional one.
It was almost as simple as cutting the hole bigger. The sheet metal isn't flat so I used a 1.5" thick mdf ring and screwed it to the opening, bringing the sheet metal pretty much flat and making a good mounting surface.
Cutting the hole that large resulted into it combining with the smaller hole above it. I used cheap sheet metal brackets to create a mounting surface for the speaker in that area where there was no metal. I'm sure thin pressboard or something similar would work just as well.
I flush mounted the drivers to the door with only damping mat between the driver and door metal, no mdf spacer. Because of this I had to space the window track out about 3/8" by inserting washers between it and the door frame. No change in window up/down performance. Without the spacers, the window would still go fully down but it would bump on the magnet once it was about 3" from fully down.
I flush mounted the drivers because I wanted to keep the door panels stock. All I had to modify was trimming the backside a bit along the seams that were a little too close to the speaker. Otherwise the panels are stock with some grinding on the backside.
It was a very easy job and at the same output the 9s rattled the doors less than the 6.5s. Obviously they have the potential to rattle the doors considerably more.
Things I would change if I had the time/money/know how: I would bring the driver closer to the grill on the door card. I would angle them to be a little more on axis but that's only because I like to run them up to 800hz sometimes. I would have put them in the kicks.
I hate compromises but I have not found a way to come remotely close to getting rid of vibrations in the doors. I should have done kicks vented to the outside world so they would only have to be large enough to house the drivers and moved the 3.5s to the upper door/sail panels.
There are pictures on here of mine with the door panels off. I can't search from my phone though.
I know this was kind of vague, let me know if I can help. Are you doing a pro-audio style midbass?
Never mind, just saw you speaker options. I always enjoy reading your pro audio oriented selections. Going to look at those drivers now.
To fit the Dyn 182 which as we know is called a 10" but has 235cm^2 cone area making it a 9" in cone area. It's only 3" deep with the magnet inside of the 4" vc making the profile a little closer to a typical neo motor midbass than a traditional one.
It was almost as simple as cutting the hole bigger. The sheet metal isn't flat so I used a 1.5" thick mdf ring and screwed it to the opening, bringing the sheet metal pretty much flat and making a good mounting surface.
Cutting the hole that large resulted into it combining with the smaller hole above it. I used cheap sheet metal brackets to create a mounting surface for the speaker in that area where there was no metal. I'm sure thin pressboard or something similar would work just as well.
I flush mounted the drivers to the door with only damping mat between the driver and door metal, no mdf spacer. Because of this I had to space the window track out about 3/8" by inserting washers between it and the door frame. No change in window up/down performance. Without the spacers, the window would still go fully down but it would bump on the magnet once it was about 3" from fully down.
I flush mounted the drivers because I wanted to keep the door panels stock. All I had to modify was trimming the backside a bit along the seams that were a little too close to the speaker. Otherwise the panels are stock with some grinding on the backside.
It was a very easy job and at the same output the 9s rattled the doors less than the 6.5s. Obviously they have the potential to rattle the doors considerably more.
Things I would change if I had the time/money/know how: I would bring the driver closer to the grill on the door card. I would angle them to be a little more on axis but that's only because I like to run them up to 800hz sometimes. I would have put them in the kicks.
I hate compromises but I have not found a way to come remotely close to getting rid of vibrations in the doors. I should have done kicks vented to the outside world so they would only have to be large enough to house the drivers and moved the 3.5s to the upper door/sail panels.
There are pictures on here of mine with the door panels off. I can't search from my phone though.
I know this was kind of vague, let me know if I can help. Are you doing a pro-audio style midbass?
Never mind, just saw you speaker options. I always enjoy reading your pro audio oriented selections. Going to look at those drivers now.
Last edited by I hate cars; 06-25-2015 at 10:15 PM.
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