Hertz sub
Hertz sub
Hey I just purchased a Hertz HK250d 10" sub and wow nice speaker. Trouble is I cannot find any specs on it online and still waiting a response from Hertz. Anybody have some idea of what enclosure this would work best in? It goes very kow with ease in a ported box tuned to 46Hz. With my previous sub I had to boost 40Hz by 8db. With this one its set flat and sounds good. Going for sound quality.
Ihc, yeah I believe you but this sub seems to put out the lower frequencies very well. It is actually the higher ones, 60-70 Hz where it dips a bit. So does that mean this sub is better suited in a sealed box?
That's weird but all that matters is how it sounds in real life. I'll model it just for my own curiosity. If you're not having to boost much anywhere you're good. How is it facing?
Its in a ported box facing the back. I stuffed the port with a towel to reduce the 40-50hz which has worked but i hve to turn the gain up nearly 3/4 now. Sounds alright though. Its an hx250d not hk like the guy ibought from told me.
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_hx250d.pdf
So let me get this straight...your box is tuned to 46hz!

One-note wonder comes to mind. Seal it up in about 1cube or slightly bigger if you can. Or build a box tuned in low 30's or high 20's. I can model it in WinISD when I get home
So let me get this straight...your box is tuned to 46hz!


One-note wonder comes to mind. Seal it up in about 1cube or slightly bigger if you can. Or build a box tuned in low 30's or high 20's. I can model it in WinISD when I get home
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Stuffing the port means you're basically running a sealed box. If you could tune it lower, you'll enjoy the efficiency of the ported box in the range that you need it. With the tuning frequency, it's no surprise that stuffing the towel in it lowered those frequencies. It will probably amaze you how much better it will sound once it's tuned lower.
Wait what? Can you draw this or do something in Paint? lol. I can tell you what you need to do if you give me the dimensions of the box.
Judging by this pic, this is what you have. I can't see the port inside, but it looks like the mdf might just go straight back and stop a few inches before it reaches the back of the box...which makes sense. A short port, especially one like that, would make it tuned VERY high. You'd need to extend it off a certain distance left to make the tune lower. I'll see what I can come up with but I'm not quite sure how you'd do that without taking the box apart...
The easiest way I can think of to lower tuning frequency is to keep the same length but reduce port volume. Can you stuff something like a 1.5" thick piece of wood on the bottom of the port that runs the length of the port? This would lower tuning frequency but by how much I have no idea. Should be significant. Eventually you will run into port noise but it might be ok.

The red words above the port say "I need these distances". The long line means I need the distance from the front of the box until the length of the port piece of MDF ends near the rear of the box
If my calculations are correct lol..
That port should be 1.25" in width and go 11" deep.
Good idea Matt. I've modeled it and by doing what you said he could knock the tuning down to 30hz
That port should be 1.25" in width and go 11" deep.
Good idea Matt. I've modeled it and by doing what you said he could knock the tuning down to 30hz
Last edited by Trunk Monkey; Feb 18, 2012 at 05:27 PM.
Thanks for everyone's help. i think I was able to determine through winisd that 33hz would be the optimum tuning frequency for this sub in the box that it's in. To get there I would need to reduce the port size by .25" in width and increase port length by 6" Could this be done by making an L shape extension to the existing port?
According to the gain plot, it would be flat down until 31hz... isn't that good?
According to the gain plot, it would be flat down until 31hz... isn't that good?
Last edited by stevemk07; Feb 18, 2012 at 08:50 PM.
Yes that's good. But I just realized that that port doesn't extend the box length OR height. You could probably get away with buying a sealed box and buying an aero port and just going that route. Would be cheap and likely easier.
Thanks for everyone's help. i think I was able to determine through winisd that 33hz would be the optimum tuning frequency for this sub in the box that it's in. To get there I would need to reduce the port size by .25" in width and increase port length by 6" Could this be done by making an L shape extension to the existing port?
According to the gain plot, it would be flat down until 31hz... isn't that good?
According to the gain plot, it would be flat down until 31hz... isn't that good?
IHC is correct. Instead of extending the port length, which is pretty much impossible now that it's already built, you can just reduce the ports diameter. If the port was like an ordinary port which ran the height of the box I could tell you exactly how much to reduce te diameter...but that's a weird box.
As far as your amps gain..what do you mean by "signal"? I'm assuming you have an adjustable LOC yes? The amp gain isnt a volume knob, it's to match the voltage you need to have a distortion free experience. Are you wired into an LOC back near the sub or what??
As far as your amps gain..what do you mean by "signal"? I'm assuming you have an adjustable LOC yes? The amp gain isnt a volume knob, it's to match the voltage you need to have a distortion free experience. Are you wired into an LOC back near the sub or what??
No loc. Just the amps high level input. It seems i can turn the amp gain to the mac without losing effect of the gain and is distortion free maintaining dynamic range. I have it set at approx 1.5v or 7% right now and HU set at -1. Using sound stream on android phone to ear in crossover and level. 20hz to 200hz sine sweep sounds smooth. Also backed off the boost at 40hz to 0
Keep in mind, with such a high tuning frequency, you will be going below the tuning of the port causing the sub to unload and excursion will be the same as if it's freeair.
With it the way it is, it's not a bad idea to use a subsonic filter from 40hz and down or just keep the port plugged up until you tune it lower.
With it the way it is, it's not a bad idea to use a subsonic filter from 40hz and down or just keep the port plugged up until you tune it lower.
If you want a sealed box, the one you have should be great with the port plugged good. Larger boxes have many benefits including less power required, better SQ, and a flatter frequency response. The sub will go lower yet sound "quick" and "snappy".
Yes it does sound good. I still think it needs a boost in the 60hz range but it definitely goes deep with precision and yes speed.
Tell me I'm not crazy?
One other thing. I started out with the stock sub still connected but got sick of the rattle then disconnected it. Rattle went away but so did the volume of the aftermarket sub. Again, I'm not an expert but without the stock sub connected I do not believe the high level inputs would receive the same amount of current due to high impedance values?
Last edited by stevemk07; Feb 19, 2012 at 10:40 PM.
http://pdfcast.org/pdf/hx-250-d
Specs for my sub.
See the recommended sealed box sizes? 9 and 14 liters or 0.32 and 0.49 cubic feet.
my box is 35.4 liters. Based on those recommendations what would be best to get the flattest curve and maintain control of the woofer... 20 liters? Suppose I could just stuff the box I have as well...
Specs for my sub.
See the recommended sealed box sizes? 9 and 14 liters or 0.32 and 0.49 cubic feet.
my box is 35.4 liters. Based on those recommendations what would be best to get the flattest curve and maintain control of the woofer... 20 liters? Suppose I could just stuff the box I have as well...
http://pdfcast.org/pdf/hx-250-d
Specs for my sub.
See the recommended sealed box sizes? 9 and 14 liters or 0.32 and 0.49 cubic feet.
my box is 35.4 liters. Based on those recommendations what would be best to get the flattest curve and maintain control of the woofer... 20 liters? Suppose I could just stuff the box I have as well...
Specs for my sub.
See the recommended sealed box sizes? 9 and 14 liters or 0.32 and 0.49 cubic feet.
my box is 35.4 liters. Based on those recommendations what would be best to get the flattest curve and maintain control of the woofer... 20 liters? Suppose I could just stuff the box I have as well...
The flattest response is going to be in the box you have it in now with it sealed. The motor controls the cone, so no worries there. Without the airspring to decrease efficiency, it's going to require less power for the same SPL down low. You will get the same SPL, just at a lower power level. It will also take less power to push it to it's mechanical limits so I wouldn't try and run the maximum rated power to it.

