Hi all,

I'm in the process of replacing my speakers and amp. I've got everything wire up but I can't get my amp to turn on.

Here are pics of my power wiring:

Connection at the battery:



Fuse Holder: (yes, I did have a 150A fuse in here when I tried turning on the amp!)



Power wire from battery to fuse holder isn't too long:



Add a circuit at the fuse box. I've got this plugged into #29 and the wire running to the amp turn on. Also, it's a 5amp fuse.



My ground connection. I sanded off the paint and drive a bolt through the body panel:



The connections on the amp:





Correct me if I'm wrong, but with everything wired as it is the amp should turn on when I put the key in the 'on' position. When I do this, I get nothing at the amp.

Can someone help me with this?

Thanks

 

Do you have a DMM? If so, you need to check your main power voltage at the amp, and also check it at the remote wire to make sure you're getting 12v for both. That would be where I start...

 

You can grab a piece of wire and connect the + of the amp to the remote... If it turns on remote it bad, if the fuse pops the + is bad (no 100 amp fuse up front?), if it sparks and the fuse pops the + and - are reversed)...

If none of that works you should give your amps to me

Or you could get a multi meter and poke around to check the power. Check the fuses on the amp too.

 

I checked the power at the remote with my multi meter and there's no power there. I tried what you suggested and jumped the amp + to the remote and the amp is now on. I played around with it and it's damned loud! My ears are ringing a bit right now.

Sorry, your suggestion worked. If it hadn't I was fully planning on sending you my "faulty" amp.

I've got to find a reliable remote on feed. Is there any harm in leaving it hooked up the way it is for now until I do?

Reading old threads it was said that #29 fuse location was a good one to use. My car is an '05 so maybe it's been changed? Those were old threads that I was reading. Any suggestions on where to tap for remote on power? I'm pretty sure I could get it from the power outlet in the center console but I'd rather not take that apart if I can help it.

Thanks for the info so far guys.

 

if you leave it hooked up the way it is now the amp will continously draw power and drain your battery. Have you checked for power right at the fuse box with your multimeter?

 

Use fuse#32. See post #4 in this thread.

 

Got it figured out. I went poking around the fuse box with my multimeter. Turns out the add-a-circuit only works one way in the fuse slot. I (gasp!) read the instructions, of course after taking the first one back to advance auto parts, and discovered this. I overcame the orientation issue, however, by putting 2 fuses in the add-a-circuit. This is how it's supposed to work anyway, if you tap a fuse slot that is already used.

So now it's working properly. I haven't got any engine whine, but I do have some hiss I need to work on. I'll play with the gains and see if I can dial it out, or at least minimize it to an acceptable level.

Of course then I've got to put my car all back together. It's going to be a bitch trying to find a place to mount this surfboard of an amp. The thing is 25.5 inches long. Any suggestions? I'm thinking maybe a false floor. We'll see.

Thanks again for all the help guys. I love this forum! So much great info.

 

why not mount it on a piece of plywood and lay the plywood vertically against the back seat and screw in the ply into the seat. Saves space and also keeps the AMP off the floor.

 

That's a definite possibility. It would be best to do that prior to reinstalling the rear seat as the amp and all it's wiring is pretty cumbersome. Plus, I could bolt the board up through the steel angle supports.

My only concern would be the pass-thru. I don't really care about the pass-thru access, but I'd like to keep access to the emergency trunk release. That's the only way to get into the trunk in the event that the electrical release malfunctions.

Thanks for the input.