I am in the middle, literally of upgrading my audio in my '08. I have all the panels off and old speakers out. I have swapped out the rear speakers, door and center. That is as far as I have gotten.

Problem 1: The door speaker wires that go from body to door are connected via a lager multi-pin connecter at the door! There is no way I can see to get new wires in there without drilling and there really is no room to do it. What I am trying to find is where is the best place to intercept the speaker wires and just use that portion of the factory wiring. I will need to splice into that wiring to run the signal from the crossover box.

Second: I cannot decide whether it is better to grab the audio signal before or after the amp. I am thinking to get it after the amp and use line levelers to reduce the signal and output to RCA for easy run to the new amps.

Which connector at the amp is output?


I am thinking of doing what KingofPain di with the tweeters and just cutout the plastic and insert the new tweeter in there. I can see no easy way to re-use the factory tweeter holder.


Any help will greatly be appreciated. I'd love to get this buttoned up this weekend.

 

Can't really help you on the speaker wire because on my setup I running the JL wires but as for the tweeters I re-used the factory holder.... once I get my finished setup you can't even tell by looking that I have the Focal k2p's in the front, kf's in the rear and a focal center. Also my install is so big that I am not running the factory amp but I "think" its after the amp.... are you running a LC7??

 

LC7? Sorry.. not sure what is

 

^It's a Six channel line output converter with auxiliary input from mobile audio. My opinion its one of the best if you don't go with an aftermarket Head Unit. Like I said "opinion"

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I will do some research on it.

 

I followed jptl04's install for doing the doors. Seemed to work pretty good. Here's a link to his awesome install.

https://acurazine.com/forums/technology-16/verizon-phone-folks-141629/


When I had an OEM HU I used a Navone LOC between the stock amp and the aftermarket amp.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, I finished the job.. well, the initial install is done, just have to clean up the wiring a bit.

Here's some pix:

I mounted the amp on a hinged board. Here is is open
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00299.jpg

Here is it closed up:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00300.jpg

I mounted the front tweets by cutting out the factory grill:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00301.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00304.jpg

I mounted the rear tweets on the deck:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00308.jpg

 

Oh man that's awesome! GREAT JOB!!!

Ok, now please don't forget how you did the wiring, I'm going to try to pick up a 4 channel amp soon so we can do mine...hehe...

I just ordered my box from Uclad4 today and will install that part next week, so it will be done. All we will need to do is mount my new amp and do the speakers.

 

Thanks! Are you planning on doing a similar set up with all speakers? I have an extra center speaker since 2 came in the package. I kept the paperwork and color code chart, so connecting to the post-amp wires will be pretty easy.

I have bene trying to figure out a fix for the sub moub mount in mine. I do have a rattle when the sub hits hard. I am not sure if the sub is rattling in it's mount or if the rear deck cover is rattling against it. It's going to require a seat removal and disassemble to figure it out.

I was thinking that possibly I could "roll" that lip back up to give me something to screw to or I'll need some sheet metal work done (ouch!).

Just let me know when you are ready to do it..

 

I am in the process of a stereo installation myself. I am noticing that my 6.5" speaker's magnet it pretty close to the sheet metal. If the magnet touches the metal while playing will that cause problems? Do you guys have any ideas as to how to keep this from happening, without cutting the hole larger? What kind of adapters did you use to install 6.5" speakers in the front doors?

 

What did you use for your 12V turn on?

 

The 6.5's came with plastic adapters that lifted the speakers up by about 1/8" or so. the speakers weren't touching the sheet metal below.

Since I had the console apart, I snagged the 12v trigger from the aux power wire going the cigarette lighters plug in the console. It is a switched signal.

 

How many amps did you power with that? Were you able to splice off the cig lighter and still have it be functional?

 

I am running 2 amps off of that signal and the power outlet is stll functional.

 

Ok, sorry to bump a 6 month old thread but I have to ask.
Tech, you have asked in multiple threads ( I'm researching as well ) about the remote turn on for the amps. You originally wanted to tap the factory remote turn on wire from the 20 pin connector at the stock amp. To me this seems like a logical place to tap into.

You were told that it is a low voltage wire (9 volts I believe someone said) and it wouldn't work without a remote power adapter (low volt remote turn-on) such as this....

http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pie1vt.html

So I'm wondering, why can't we use the red w/yellow factory wire. It's sufficient to turn on the factory amp, why won't it work for an aftermarket amp also? Doesn't the remote turn on require very little power?


Now, Stew was able to tap into the cig lighter in the center console for his rem wire. How is this different?

Could we tap into the factory XM harness that is already in the trunk, and use it for our rem wire?

I'd appreciate any help clarifying this for me. Thanks

 

chusteveb, Trew, KOP, Toasters. CSW, anybody??????? ^^^^^^^

 

I just tagged am ACCY wire in the Driver's kick and ran it to the trunk...no fuss no muss...and I know it works...

-Jason

 

So did you do this, or just stab the wire underneath one of the fuses in the panel?

 

very very kleen mr. siq. that was a great idea!!!!!

 

Actually, thats not my car, it's tech14's. I was wondering if it could be done differently (see post 15) but it seems almost everyone is doing the add a fuse method.

 

SiQ... I'm not too sure about the XM harness. Is it switched from the radio power? If so, then I'd recommend using it as a trigger. I would highly recommend you not tapping power directly from it though. Instead, get an LVT and connect it to 12v at acc fuse 29 or 31 in the fuse panel. The "add a circuit" is the absolute best way to go.

I used the 9v remote wire from the amp as my trigger, but it appears that wire is not switched from the HU. My amps are always on when the car is running. I'm too lazy to fix it, so it'll have to wait till summer.

 

Trew, by LVT do you mean low volt turn on?
Do I still need that even if I connect my remote turn on wire from the amp to the fuse panel with an add a fuse?

 

Dude, no offense, GJ on the install but you really need to clean it up.

 

Low Voltage Trigger. No you won't need an LVT if you tap straight from the fuse box. I suggested it because you mentioned tapping into the XM harness in the trunk. I wouldn't recommend you pull power directly from the device.

If you go straight to the fuse box, you'll be good

If you need any help you can PM me. I didn't see this until today.

 

Thanks Trew, after the problem I encountered today I wont be using the XM harness. My XM button doesn't do anything. Now I can't listen to my ipod.

 

My

The OEM amp turn on works fine. I use it on every Honda/Acura and have not had a single issue.

On some Honda/Acura, and many other cars, the amp turn-on stays lit for a reason. In this instance it stays lit because both your HFL and your NAVI/climate control voice commands use the audio system. Even if your radio is off those other systems need the audio system active. Thus the OEM amp turn-on stays live (yellow/red wire).

My truck is the same way. The OEM amp stays on if the radio is off. It even stays on 10 minutes after the truck is shut off and locked. This is to accommodate OnStar and it's functions.

 

^ Yea I found that out the hard way...

I wish there were a way to turn off the amps when the radio is off. I'm trying to avoid having to install an amp switch. Dash board real estate is not very accomodating for extra switches/buttons.

 

I had a customer with a 2007 Civic Si. I did a full system. About 8 grand worth. He brought his car up here from SoCal to have this stuff done. Everything went great and he understood why the audio system needed to be powered on even when the radio was off. After a month he drove all the way back up here to have me put a switch in line with the amp turn on. It drove him nuts that the amps stayed on while the car was on.

I don't understand what the big deal is. There are many components on your car that are powered on even when not in use. If it seriously bugs you then use a signal sensing turn on.