Help requested for audio upgrade
#1
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Help requested for audio upgrade
I am in the middle, literally of upgrading my audio in my '08. I have all the panels off and old speakers out. I have swapped out the rear speakers, door and center. That is as far as I have gotten.
Problem 1: The door speaker wires that go from body to door are connected via a lager multi-pin connecter at the door! There is no way I can see to get new wires in there without drilling and there really is no room to do it. What I am trying to find is where is the best place to intercept the speaker wires and just use that portion of the factory wiring. I will need to splice into that wiring to run the signal from the crossover box.
Second: I cannot decide whether it is better to grab the audio signal before or after the amp. I am thinking to get it after the amp and use line levelers to reduce the signal and output to RCA for easy run to the new amps.
Which connector at the amp is output?
I am thinking of doing what KingofPain di with the tweeters and just cutout the plastic and insert the new tweeter in there. I can see no easy way to re-use the factory tweeter holder.
Any help will greatly be appreciated. I'd love to get this buttoned up this weekend.
Problem 1: The door speaker wires that go from body to door are connected via a lager multi-pin connecter at the door! There is no way I can see to get new wires in there without drilling and there really is no room to do it. What I am trying to find is where is the best place to intercept the speaker wires and just use that portion of the factory wiring. I will need to splice into that wiring to run the signal from the crossover box.
Second: I cannot decide whether it is better to grab the audio signal before or after the amp. I am thinking to get it after the amp and use line levelers to reduce the signal and output to RCA for easy run to the new amps.
Which connector at the amp is output?
I am thinking of doing what KingofPain di with the tweeters and just cutout the plastic and insert the new tweeter in there. I can see no easy way to re-use the factory tweeter holder.
Any help will greatly be appreciated. I'd love to get this buttoned up this weekend.
#2
SC TL to RS4 to 911
Can't really help you on the speaker wire because on my setup I running the JL wires but as for the tweeters I re-used the factory holder.... once I get my finished setup you can't even tell by looking that I have the Focal k2p's in the front, kf's in the rear and a focal center. Also my install is so big that I am not running the factory amp but I "think" its after the amp.... are you running a LC7??
#4
SC TL to RS4 to 911
^It's a Six channel line output converter with auxiliary input from mobile audio. My opinion its one of the best if you don't go with an aftermarket Head Unit. Like I said "opinion"
#6
Burning Brakes
I followed jptl04's install for doing the doors. Seemed to work pretty good. Here's a link to his awesome install.
https://acurazine.com/forums/technology-16/verizon-phone-folks-141629/
When I had an OEM HU I used a Navone LOC between the stock amp and the aftermarket amp.
https://acurazine.com/forums/technology-16/verizon-phone-folks-141629/
When I had an OEM HU I used a Navone LOC between the stock amp and the aftermarket amp.
#7
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the help guys, I finished the job.. well, the initial install is done, just have to clean up the wiring a bit.
Here's some pix:
I mounted the amp on a hinged board. Here is is open
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00299.jpg
Here is it closed up:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00300.jpg
I mounted the front tweets by cutting out the factory grill:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00301.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00304.jpg
I mounted the rear tweets on the deck:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00308.jpg
Here's some pix:
I mounted the amp on a hinged board. Here is is open
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00299.jpg
Here is it closed up:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00300.jpg
I mounted the front tweets by cutting out the factory grill:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00301.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00304.jpg
I mounted the rear tweets on the deck:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...w/DSC00308.jpg
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#8
I used to own a
iTrader: (4)
Oh man that's awesome! GREAT JOB!!!
Ok, now please don't forget how you did the wiring, I'm going to try to pick up a 4 channel amp soon so we can do mine...hehe...
I just ordered my box from Uclad4 today and will install that part next week, so it will be done. All we will need to do is mount my new amp and do the speakers.
Ok, now please don't forget how you did the wiring, I'm going to try to pick up a 4 channel amp soon so we can do mine...hehe...
I just ordered my box from Uclad4 today and will install that part next week, so it will be done. All we will need to do is mount my new amp and do the speakers.
#9
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Thanks! Are you planning on doing a similar set up with all speakers? I have an extra center speaker since 2 came in the package. I kept the paperwork and color code chart, so connecting to the post-amp wires will be pretty easy.
I have bene trying to figure out a fix for the sub moub mount in mine. I do have a rattle when the sub hits hard. I am not sure if the sub is rattling in it's mount or if the rear deck cover is rattling against it. It's going to require a seat removal and disassemble to figure it out.
I was thinking that possibly I could "roll" that lip back up to give me something to screw to or I'll need some sheet metal work done (ouch!).
Just let me know when you are ready to do it..
I have bene trying to figure out a fix for the sub moub mount in mine. I do have a rattle when the sub hits hard. I am not sure if the sub is rattling in it's mount or if the rear deck cover is rattling against it. It's going to require a seat removal and disassemble to figure it out.
I was thinking that possibly I could "roll" that lip back up to give me something to screw to or I'll need some sheet metal work done (ouch!).
Just let me know when you are ready to do it..
#10
2008 NBP TL
I am in the process of a stereo installation myself. I am noticing that my 6.5" speaker's magnet it pretty close to the sheet metal. If the magnet touches the metal while playing will that cause problems? Do you guys have any ideas as to how to keep this from happening, without cutting the hole larger? What kind of adapters did you use to install 6.5" speakers in the front doors?
#12
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
The 6.5's came with plastic adapters that lifted the speakers up by about 1/8" or so. the speakers weren't touching the sheet metal below.
Since I had the console apart, I snagged the 12v trigger from the aux power wire going the cigarette lighters plug in the console. It is a switched signal.
Since I had the console apart, I snagged the 12v trigger from the aux power wire going the cigarette lighters plug in the console. It is a switched signal.
#14
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by tech14
How many amps did you power with that? Were you able to splice off the cig lighter and still have it be functional?
#15
Safety Car
I'm confused
Ok, sorry to bump a 6 month old thread but I have to ask.
Tech, you have asked in multiple threads ( I'm researching as well ) about the remote turn on for the amps. You originally wanted to tap the factory remote turn on wire from the 20 pin connector at the stock amp. To me this seems like a logical place to tap into.
You were told that it is a low voltage wire (9 volts I believe someone said) and it wouldn't work without a remote power adapter (low volt remote turn-on) such as this....
http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pie1vt.html
So I'm wondering, why can't we use the red w/yellow factory wire. It's sufficient to turn on the factory amp, why won't it work for an aftermarket amp also? Doesn't the remote turn on require very little power?
Now, Stew was able to tap into the cig lighter in the center console for his rem wire. How is this different?
Could we tap into the factory XM harness that is already in the trunk, and use it for our rem wire?
I'd appreciate any help clarifying this for me. Thanks
Tech, you have asked in multiple threads ( I'm researching as well ) about the remote turn on for the amps. You originally wanted to tap the factory remote turn on wire from the 20 pin connector at the stock amp. To me this seems like a logical place to tap into.
You were told that it is a low voltage wire (9 volts I believe someone said) and it wouldn't work without a remote power adapter (low volt remote turn-on) such as this....
http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pie1vt.html
So I'm wondering, why can't we use the red w/yellow factory wire. It's sufficient to turn on the factory amp, why won't it work for an aftermarket amp also? Doesn't the remote turn on require very little power?
Now, Stew was able to tap into the cig lighter in the center console for his rem wire. How is this different?
Could we tap into the factory XM harness that is already in the trunk, and use it for our rem wire?
I'd appreciate any help clarifying this for me. Thanks
#18
Safety Car
So did you do this, or just stab the wire underneath one of the fuses in the panel?
I tapped the fuse box with an "add a circuit" plug. It is designed for ATM mini fuses. I tapped slot number 31. It is empty, and is a switched fuse. I used a 7.5 amp for my turn on lead.
Picture of Fusebox
ATM Add a Fuse Wiretap
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/miatmfua.html
Picture of Fusebox
ATM Add a Fuse Wiretap
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/miatmfua.html
#21
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
SiQ... I'm not too sure about the XM harness. Is it switched from the radio power? If so, then I'd recommend using it as a trigger. I would highly recommend you not tapping power directly from it though. Instead, get an LVT and connect it to 12v at acc fuse 29 or 31 in the fuse panel. The "add a circuit" is the absolute best way to go.
I used the 9v remote wire from the amp as my trigger, but it appears that wire is not switched from the HU. My amps are always on when the car is running. I'm too lazy to fix it, so it'll have to wait till summer.
I used the 9v remote wire from the amp as my trigger, but it appears that wire is not switched from the HU. My amps are always on when the car is running. I'm too lazy to fix it, so it'll have to wait till summer.
#24
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
If you go straight to the fuse box, you'll be good
If you need any help you can PM me. I didn't see this until today.
Last edited by Trew; 01-21-2009 at 10:11 PM.
#26
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
My
The OEM amp turn on works fine. I use it on every Honda/Acura and have not had a single issue.
On some Honda/Acura, and many other cars, the amp turn-on stays lit for a reason. In this instance it stays lit because both your HFL and your NAVI/climate control voice commands use the audio system. Even if your radio is off those other systems need the audio system active. Thus the OEM amp turn-on stays live (yellow/red wire).
My truck is the same way. The OEM amp stays on if the radio is off. It even stays on 10 minutes after the truck is shut off and locked. This is to accommodate OnStar and it's functions.
The OEM amp turn on works fine. I use it on every Honda/Acura and have not had a single issue.
On some Honda/Acura, and many other cars, the amp turn-on stays lit for a reason. In this instance it stays lit because both your HFL and your NAVI/climate control voice commands use the audio system. Even if your radio is off those other systems need the audio system active. Thus the OEM amp turn-on stays live (yellow/red wire).
My truck is the same way. The OEM amp stays on if the radio is off. It even stays on 10 minutes after the truck is shut off and locked. This is to accommodate OnStar and it's functions.
#28
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
I don't understand what the big deal is. There are many components on your car that are powered on even when not in use. If it seriously bugs you then use a signal sensing turn on.
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