Help me pick some seakers
Budget:
component set: 250
amp: tbd after components selected
I am tryng to get the best sound possible in my car without sending too much more.
The only brands available to hear anywhere near me are not worth mentioning except Alpine. I will be ordering online.
I love many genres of music so a quality speaker with good bass response and believable/pleasant highs would ROCK.
Here are some possibilties thus far:
JBL P660 - Great reviews with 45 - 23k Hz response. 2 ohm, and 94 db
Polk db6501 - 40 - 23k, 4 ohm, 92db
Comments on these choices or any other suggestion are your duty now. And thanks.
component set: 250
amp: tbd after components selected
I am tryng to get the best sound possible in my car without sending too much more.
The only brands available to hear anywhere near me are not worth mentioning except Alpine. I will be ordering online.
I love many genres of music so a quality speaker with good bass response and believable/pleasant highs would ROCK.
Here are some possibilties thus far:
JBL P660 - Great reviews with 45 - 23k Hz response. 2 ohm, and 94 db
Polk db6501 - 40 - 23k, 4 ohm, 92db
Comments on these choices or any other suggestion are your duty now. And thanks.
I may be wrong but I thought there were a few people around here who took the signal pre-amp with amps that apparently did not specifically accept balanced signals and they sounded fine? I guess it would be good to clear that up.
In the old days, I don't remember people talking about balanced or non balanced. I've never searched back but I just don't remember this being discussed much until maybe the past year.
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I have never had an aftermarket HU or line driver in my car, and I am of the opinion that you will struggle with the balanced DIFFERENTIAL signal if you don't account for it.
Get a JL 300/2, or 300/4 for a 150x2 experience with your comps. JL amps are available, good amps and works with the signal. I just grabbed a zapco ref 350.2 locally for $150, so look around - there are good used amps out there. ...just test 'em before you buy 'em.
ID CXS are very nice speakers. I thought that the tweets were a bit soft, but I also had Focal Utopias in my other car. The midbass is strong. The crossover is good enough that you don't need to buy a processor. For the money, there are few better choices.
Get a JL 300/2, or 300/4 for a 150x2 experience with your comps. JL amps are available, good amps and works with the signal. I just grabbed a zapco ref 350.2 locally for $150, so look around - there are good used amps out there. ...just test 'em before you buy 'em.
ID CXS are very nice speakers. I thought that the tweets were a bit soft, but I also had Focal Utopias in my other car. The midbass is strong. The crossover is good enough that you don't need to buy a processor. For the money, there are few better choices.
I have a bitone.1 and some decent speakers in my TL. When I move them to my next car, I will be using the crossovers that came with my set and not the processor. It is cool and all, but the juice is not worth the squeeze for me anymore... besides the better sets come with pretty good crossovers. Personally, I would spend the processor money on better components.
I'll take that Bit.1 off your hands 
I'm figuring out that I'd like to have and/or start with a processor that has AutoEQ in it. I know the MS-8 does, but it looks to be a pain in the ass for most users. It's cool being able to do everything in the 3sixty.2, but I just don't know enough yet AND I don't have a quality RTA to be using the 1/3octave EQ to its full potential.

I'm figuring out that I'd like to have and/or start with a processor that has AutoEQ in it. I know the MS-8 does, but it looks to be a pain in the ass for most users. It's cool being able to do everything in the 3sixty.2, but I just don't know enough yet AND I don't have a quality RTA to be using the 1/3octave EQ to its full potential.
What the factory amp does sucks. The crossovers that come with your aftermarket set will be a million times better and are made for your speakers. The head unit puts out a pretty good signal (for the front channels) that is full range and very flat - use that, not the amp'd signal. I have a bitone in one of my cars and I use the processors in the Zapco amps in the other... but next time, I would just use the crossovers in the set and call it a day.
One thing I'm learning is that the automatic volume based "loudness" curve must be built into the HU and not the amp. Along with the MS8 it helps to kill dynamics. As the volume is increased, bass and treble are decreased. Lately I've been setting mine so that 15 on the volume is the max I need to use and I get much more bass at the higher volumes.
I also agree that for me a processor is just not worth it anymore. Maybe a little cheap EQ for small adjustments but I think I liked my system just as much on the crossovers that came with my Dyns.
I also agree that for me a processor is just not worth it anymore. Maybe a little cheap EQ for small adjustments but I think I liked my system just as much on the crossovers that came with my Dyns.
I would replace the stock ELS HU with a high quality double DIN before I would process, if I was doing it again. I think (just supposition here, nothing substantial) that this would be a better SQ improvement.
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