Head unit output too low.
08-02-2012, 04:49 PM
#82
Team Owner
Now you're just trying to string this thing along, acting like a child.
I've been proven wrong many times in car audio right here on this board but it will never be from you two. I'm only replying because this thread has long since been dead so it's not hurting anyone, it's not destroying other, more useful threads.
I've been proven wrong many times in car audio right here on this board but it will never be from you two. I'm only replying because this thread has long since been dead so it's not hurting anyone, it's not destroying other, more useful threads.
08-02-2012, 04:52 PM
#83
Post #71 was not correcting "little typo's"....that's a wall of blatant misconception
The fact is that everyone wants to know THE TRUTH. If you don't know, don't say anything! If you don't agree with someone then prove your point in a way other than repeatedly saying "you're dumb and you're wrong", "gibberish", etc.
The fact is that everyone wants to know THE TRUTH. If you don't know, don't say anything! If you don't agree with someone then prove your point in a way other than repeatedly saying "you're dumb and you're wrong", "gibberish", etc.
Thanks for proving my point.
Someone got caught in lies....
08-02-2012, 05:32 PM
#85
Anyway I got what I needed from this forum so on to more important things for me. Not saying I have left as you idiots will certainly try to point out but the information is out there, including ridiculous arguments you tried to present. I am happy with my system. You select few guys will still be trying to fix your systems in your collective incompetence until you die probably.
Gotta suck knowing you burdened your perfectly good TL with all that useless weight. All you had to do was eliminate your phase issues.
Gotta suck knowing you burdened your perfectly good TL with all that useless weight. All you had to do was eliminate your phase issues.
08-02-2012, 05:47 PM
#86
Team Owner
Anyway I got what I needed from this forum so on to more important things for me. Not saying I have left as you idiots will certainly try to point out but the information is out there, including ridiculous arguments you tried to present. I am happy with my system. You select few guys will still be trying to fix your systems in your collective incompetence until you die probably.
Gotta suck knowing you burdened your perfectly good TL with all that useless weight. All you had to do was eliminate your phase issues.
Gotta suck knowing you burdened your perfectly good TL with all that useless weight. All you had to do was eliminate your phase issues.
Now that one of the trolls are gone, I have to mention I'm having my car washed for the first time in a month. They just ran it through for the second time lol. Usually that only happens with trucks lol.
08-02-2012, 06:46 PM
#87
So you aren't sure if that was an opinion or.....
...you're a few nuggets short of a happy meal aren't you?
That was rhetorical btw
. Look it up if your head's gonna splode
lol. You have a sub, 1 piece of deadener and your beloved Armor-all
...you're a few nuggets short of a happy meal aren't you?
That was rhetorical btw
. Look it up if your head's gonna splodelol. You have a sub, 1 piece of deadener and your beloved Armor-all
08-06-2012, 07:44 PM
#88
Drifting
actually one thing IHC said was right.. Speakers in parallel actually do "see" more power. But you have to realize that power is just a calculation based on voltage and resistance or current and resistance. The driving capability of my amp did not change when I re-wired my speakers. Instead, the resistance of the speaker changed. And that caused an increase of current that flows through my speakers. So, this increase in current over the set of voice coils had an effect of more power. That is why amplifer specs normally have a range of values based on the load, which is the impedance of the speaker. So it's actually a misconception that the speaker requires more power as if that is a bad thing. 2 reasons. Because the amp will only provide so much power on the backside. You can overdrive and amp and get it hot and it may blow, but you can't make a speaker take more power than what the amp is willing to give.. So if you say the speaker requires more power that is wrong. Its wrong because it now has less resistance and it responds to the current more readily.
Another reason to forget about inductance is because it is based on the amount of current that goes through the speaker and the number of coil windings. The number of coil windings is not changing. And when you build a system, inductance is not a factor because it is calculated into the performance specs of the speaker. I think the main use of inductance is more likely not for some sort of filter.. but rather, you drive the woofer. If polarity changes on the speaker wires, then the woofer will move out or retract. And thus, you now have the basis of what causes the sound to hit your ear drum. That is, air vibrations set off by the coil where inductance is the motor that drives the woofer.
If you look up the "thumb rule", it will explain how the polarity of inductance is related to the direction of current flow.
For more info on whatelse can cause sound waves...
read this:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/muffler1.htm
Another reason to forget about inductance is because it is based on the amount of current that goes through the speaker and the number of coil windings. The number of coil windings is not changing. And when you build a system, inductance is not a factor because it is calculated into the performance specs of the speaker. I think the main use of inductance is more likely not for some sort of filter.. but rather, you drive the woofer. If polarity changes on the speaker wires, then the woofer will move out or retract. And thus, you now have the basis of what causes the sound to hit your ear drum. That is, air vibrations set off by the coil where inductance is the motor that drives the woofer.
If you look up the "thumb rule", it will explain how the polarity of inductance is related to the direction of current flow.
For more info on whatelse can cause sound waves...
read this:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/muffler1.htm
Last edited by Chad05TL; 08-06-2012 at 07:48 PM.
08-06-2012, 08:04 PM
#89
Team Owner
You call yourself and electrical engineer? That looks like it was written by a 5yr old cobbled together from internet sites.
I had a reply for each mistake you made (your whole post) but I doubt anyone pays attention to your posts anymore so screw it.
The coil IS an inductor. You sorta missed that little point.
I had a reply for each mistake you made (your whole post) but I doubt anyone pays attention to your posts anymore so screw it.
The coil IS an inductor. You sorta missed that little point.
08-11-2012, 08:23 PM
#90
Drifting
You should read the emails my boss sends me. garbled half the time. crazy
Anyway, to Steve's comment about a tuned factory system, well, as it turns out, he is right. Let me explain. If you didn't know always, I am running off the factory amp. And I have that amp plugged into mine that is driving the sub. Well, This afternoon, I decided to install some other 6.5's in the rear deck and use the other half of my 4-channel amp. So even though it's chessy and not the best choice, I went ahead and connected the rear speaker wires to my amp and I had no sound coming out.. I was like, what the heck? So then I realize I had the inputs on the output.. So I moved it over to B input which is on the other side of A. So, then I listened and NOTHING! I was like ok this amp is pissing me off. So I checked the subout, and it was fine. So I looked a little closer and the filter was on LPF. That's low pass. And nothing came out! .. So I flipped it to HPF and VOLA~! Music. It was then I realized the factory system is blocking all the lower frequencies from the rear speakers. Normally, you hear "something" bleed through even if its just a peep. But it was deader than a door nail. I am pretty sure I moved the cross over frequency around some before I flipped it to HPF. It's a GM-9500 if you want to look up the stats. But I was suprised to see the factory system with a crossover on the rear speakers. With that being said, it may be difficult to get very low frequencies from the rear speakers. I did not put the rear seat back in because while I was downstairs I thought I didn't like the Kenwood speakers I bought for cheap. But I may want to reconsider getting another speaker or not. I still dont know. I dont want to spend money on a nice speaker just to have it cutoff. Nevertheless, the main reason I wanted those speakers is to balance out the mid and highs.. And it does that ok. I prefer a slightly deeper sound even out of the rear's.. but I didn't have my back seat installed and the rear deck is off.. So maybe it would sound better with it all put back, but something tells me I might want to just get some other 6.5's for the rear while I have the backseat off.. I hate that back seat. side note: the sub has lower than low frequences so I'm not worried about that low.. just that midbass stuff. Even the tweeter of the kenwood didn't seem that great. oh well.. cheap speaker.. but ut sure sounded better in the panel on display. haha who knows.. maybe its the back seat not in.
Anyway, to Steve's comment about a tuned factory system, well, as it turns out, he is right. Let me explain. If you didn't know always, I am running off the factory amp. And I have that amp plugged into mine that is driving the sub. Well, This afternoon, I decided to install some other 6.5's in the rear deck and use the other half of my 4-channel amp. So even though it's chessy and not the best choice, I went ahead and connected the rear speaker wires to my amp and I had no sound coming out.. I was like, what the heck? So then I realize I had the inputs on the output.. So I moved it over to B input which is on the other side of A. So, then I listened and NOTHING! I was like ok this amp is pissing me off. So I checked the subout, and it was fine. So I looked a little closer and the filter was on LPF. That's low pass. And nothing came out! .. So I flipped it to HPF and VOLA~! Music. It was then I realized the factory system is blocking all the lower frequencies from the rear speakers. Normally, you hear "something" bleed through even if its just a peep. But it was deader than a door nail. I am pretty sure I moved the cross over frequency around some before I flipped it to HPF. It's a GM-9500 if you want to look up the stats. But I was suprised to see the factory system with a crossover on the rear speakers. With that being said, it may be difficult to get very low frequencies from the rear speakers. I did not put the rear seat back in because while I was downstairs I thought I didn't like the Kenwood speakers I bought for cheap. But I may want to reconsider getting another speaker or not. I still dont know. I dont want to spend money on a nice speaker just to have it cutoff. Nevertheless, the main reason I wanted those speakers is to balance out the mid and highs.. And it does that ok. I prefer a slightly deeper sound even out of the rear's.. but I didn't have my back seat installed and the rear deck is off.. So maybe it would sound better with it all put back, but something tells me I might want to just get some other 6.5's for the rear while I have the backseat off.. I hate that back seat. side note: the sub has lower than low frequences so I'm not worried about that low.. just that midbass stuff. Even the tweeter of the kenwood didn't seem that great. oh well.. cheap speaker.. but ut sure sounded better in the panel on display. haha who knows.. maybe its the back seat not in.
08-11-2012, 11:36 PM
#93
Suzuka Master
I learned output A is on the other side of output B!
08-12-2012, 01:14 AM
#94
Drifting
08-12-2012, 01:16 AM
#95
Drifting
08-12-2012, 02:17 AM
#96
Team Owner
Just when you thought the troll could get no dumber, he does. Unbelievable there are people like this out there.
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