BukvaMan

Im thinking of doing it... Im just lugging all this weight around and i don't even listen to loud music anymore, plus i never got it to the point where i really like how it sounds. It just isn't balanced properly. I think going back to stock would improve gas milage and power and id get some money back by selling some of these nice pdx amps and so on...

then again all this hard work that i did myself if i go back to stock i might regret it..

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

What's your setup?

What don't you like?

I hate cars

Agreed.

If you have two subs, you might reduce it down to one.

If you have two or three amps, you might reduce it down to one 5 or 6 channel. There are some really good class D amps that will run an entire system and fit under a seat.

Depending on what subs you have, you can go infinite baffle and retain 95% of your trunk space and reduce power requirements at the same time.

I had two 12W6s in a bandpass box which was a total of 3 cubes, 3 amps, and an active crossover.

I replaced it with two 15s that only weigh 17lbs each in an infinite baffle setup that has under 10lbs of wood. I use two tiny class D amps that fit under the seats so no space is taken up.

There was enough weight reduction that I had to re-aim my headlights. The car has a very nice sounding system that will get loud when required and I've lost almost zero space.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

Hey IHC, I sent you a PM yesterday about this after Trunk Monkey mentioned you knew, but can you post the dimensions an amp has to be to fit under the seat? I'm considering switching to a 4 channel amp that will fit under the seat and using the front channels to power some components and bridging the rear for my 10W6. I'm guessing though that I would still need an amp that accepts balanced inputs? Any suggestions on Class D amps for this?

To tie back to this thread, my entire goal is to keep the trunk looking as stock as possible, and having the amp entirely hidden as well. I want my car to sound decent, but I don't want it to look like I have some crazy system.

I hate cars

I replied back to you. Let me know if it didn't come through and I'll resend it. I don't remember the width off the top of my head but measure the width of the frame rails and subtract an inch. Height is different between passenger and driver's seats but it's pretty much zero under the passenger seat until you relocate the airbag module and remove the shield, then you get about 2". The driver's seat will accept at least 2.25" with no mods. Length is dependant on how much you want to stick out to the rear passengers. The JL HD that I'm running can only be seen with the seats as far forward as they will go. I put the floor mats over the amps so no feet can reach them and no lights are visible in the dark.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

Weird, I never got a PM from you, and my inbox isn't full either. If you don't mind, please resend it.

Also, that's good to know that 2.25 will fit under, that shouldn't be too tough to find. One more question: since this would run the sub and the fronts, would it need to accept a balanced signal? If so, I'm guessing that would limit my options.

Any suggestions of amps that would fit the bill of fitting under the seat and still giving enough power to the 10w6 in back? I'm pretty sure that all I'm thinking about having is maybe 75 watts rms each to the fronts, I'm more concerned about getting enough to the sub, and I would like to stay around $200 or maybe $250, including used. I'd love the jl hd stuff you have, but it's pricier than what I'm looking for.