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I recently started tidying up the interior of my TL by hardwiring a radar detector and now I am taking on getting bluetooth in the cabin without AUX/power wires showing. I mocked up a diagram (below) on what my setup will be, but need some advice on wiring the BT module so that I'm not running a wire from the cig lighter in either the front or mid console(s).
My RDD was hardwired with an "add-a-circuit" and now I am wondering what would be the best way to wire this BT module? Wiring in general is not very intuitive for me, so I need things to be pretty explicit to feel confident doing the install myself.
Wire the usb charging cable for the BT module to the cigarette lighter in the front console using 2 splice connectors; one positive and one negative.
Then store the module behind there (behind front storage, under radio)
You can either wire the USB cable by stripping the insulation and finding the power and ground wires, OR you can just buy a USB car adaptor and wire that to the cigarette lighter wires and plug the BT module USB into that.
EZ mode
Last edited by guitarplayer16; Jul 27, 2018 at 01:58 AM.
Let me know how that turn out. BTW if you choosing to skip the track via the steering wheel control then you will have to hold down the +/- button until it beep, you will have to use the tune knob to skip to the next track.
Let me know how that turn out. BTW if you choosing to skip the track via the steering wheel control then you will have to hold down the +/- button until it beep, you will have to use the tune knob to skip to the next track.
Cool, thanks for the tip.
I just put it in, I'm thinking it took an entire half hour from collecting the package from the shipping box to pairing, testing, buttoning everything back up, and coming back inside to wash my hands.
In my brief test the sound comes through crystal clear and nice and loud.
In the end, for those with an XM Receiver, putting in the BT45-HON3 is so easy, and using it easier still, I don't know why anybody would consider a wired option.
In the end, for those with an XM Receiver, putting in the BT45-HON3 is so easy, and using it easier still, I don't know why anybody would consider a wired option.
did you use the mic came with the package for HFL operation? I assume that you unplug your HLF a long time ago.
The only difference between OP's solution and the bluetooth module is track display, ability to browse songs using the car, and steering wheel control.
One option is $200 CAD, the other is $60 CAD.
Just depends on everyone's use and if it's worth it to them
The only difference between OP's solution and the bluetooth module is track display, ability to browse songs using the car, and steering wheel control.
That difference is huge in my book, no bluetooth or steering wheel controls and I wouldn't bother, regardless of the price.
That difference is huge in my book, no bluetooth or steering wheel controls and I wouldn't bother, regardless of the price.
its $60 for the KH aux BTA adapter or $120 for my ACU-BT45 is a huge difference in my book as well.
I communicate a lot with oilfield client so having a back up HFL, display incoming call number, picking phone call or hang up using steering wheel control is a plus. Beside I never like the idea of touch my phone while driving.
its $60 for the KH aux BTA adapter or $120 for my ACU-BT45 is a huge difference in my book as well.
I communicate a lot with oilfield client so having a back up HFL, display incoming call number, picking phone call or hang up using steering wheel control is a plus. Beside I never like the idea of touch my phone while driving.
So, a 200+ mile road trip happened shortly after installing the BT45-HON3; a few observations:
The HFL and the BT45 seem to collide when trying to connect as soon as I start the car; whichever gets there first locks the other out.
Not realizing point #1, I was tooling down the highway listening to BT music and a call came in; the BT45 answered the call and not the HFL. If I recall correctly, there is a thread here which gives some dip switch settings to correct this issue and disable the voice interface. I checked the USA-Spec manual and it only gives one setting (that for using the included microphone).
When I manually link my phone to the HFL, the BT45, and my Garmin GPS, all three happily coexist, and when a call comes in on my HFL, it overrides the audio of the music stream.
After each song comes up, the name of the song displays on the screen for, oh, maybe 30 seconds, and then the screen changes to XM PREVIEW until the next song comes around. I'm hoping there is a switch setting to disable this functionality as well.
All in all, the issues outlined above are trivial, I really like the device.
Wire the usb charging cable for the BT module to the cigarette lighter in the front console using 2 splice connectors; one positive and one negative.
Then store the module behind there (behind front storage, under radio)
You can either wire the USB cable by stripping the insulation and finding the power and ground wires, OR you can just buy a USB car adaptor and wire that to the cigarette lighter wires and plug the BT module USB into that.
EZ mode
Thanks! Especially for actually giving a useful comment.
Originally Posted by truonghthe
please save your time and just buy the dam USA spec Honda - 45 BT already.
Cool story, guy. Next.
Originally Posted by horseshoez
In the end, for those with an XM Receiver, putting in the BT45-HON3 is so easy, and using it easier still, I don't know why anybody would consider a wired option.
I don't plan on keeping the car long.
Originally Posted by guitarplayer16
The only difference between OP's solution and the bluetooth module is track display, ability to browse songs using the car, and steering wheel control.
One option is $200 CAD, the other is $60 CAD.
Just depends on everyone's use and if it's worth it to them
Exactly. My cost is $44 USD OTD (for a non-aux '04 model).
Originally Posted by horseshoez
That difference is huge in my book, no bluetooth or steering wheel controls and I wouldn't bother, regardless of the price.
I have zero use for steering controls minus volume adjustment.
Instead of getting the aux adapter with just the 3.5mm end, get the same model but the one that has a 3.5mm and a USB female port. Then you could just plug in your Bluetooth into the USB port off the adapter and don't need to hard wire anything.
The only downside I can think of, is the USB port. On the aux adapter is always live.
Instead of getting the aux adapter with just the 3.5mm end, get the same model but the one that has a 3.5mm and a USB female port. Then you could just plug in your Bluetooth into the USB port off the adapter and don't need to hard wire anything.
The only downside I can think of, is the USB port. On the aux adapter is always live.
Hmm, that is an interesting idea. I wonder how I could neutralize the 3.5 end.
Instead of getting the aux adapter with just the 3.5mm end, get the same model but the one that has a 3.5mm and a USB female port. Then you could just plug in your Bluetooth into the USB port off the adapter and don't need to hard wire anything.
The only downside I can think of, is the USB port. On the aux adapter is always live.
That's actually a great idea! Unfortunately the USB port always getting power would mean that the bluetooth module would be on 24/7 which is a huge downside.
Hardwiring a female cigarette socket to the front storage power wires is a tiny 5 min job, especially with the interior disassembled to install the AUX module to the back of the radio
<--- plug into APPS2Car 3.5mm, plug USB charger cable into USB car charger above.
I totally overlooked one detail.
If you're planning to stash the bluetooth module away behind the front storage (eg, you'd have to disassemble your interior to access it), you'd need to be certain the bluetooth module you chose automatically powers up when it receives power from the USB charging cable
Last edited by guitarplayer16; Jul 28, 2018 at 04:56 PM.
That's actually a great idea! Unfortunately the USB port always getting power would mean that the bluetooth module would be on 24/7 which is a huge downside.
Hardwiring a female cigarette socket to the front storage power wires is a tiny 5 min job, especially with the interior disassembled to install the AUX module to the back of the radio
I totally overlooked one detail.
If you're planning to stash the bluetooth module away behind the front storage (eg, you'd have to disassemble your interior to access it), you'd need to be certain the bluetooth module you chose automatically powers up when it receives power from the USB charging cable
Ha, that is the same cig lighter USB charger port that I have. It works REALLY well and by that I mean fast. Highly recommend that for anyone wanting a better one for their car. I think what I would like to do is splice into the USB cable that powers the BTA and put it into line with the OEM cigarette lighter. Would that affect the power output of my cigarette lighter though? And how would I go about doing that in the easiest way possible? Can I t-tap the USB cable and t-tap the cig lighter power? Or what would be the best way to "Wire the usb charging cable for the BT module to the cigarette lighter in the front console using 2 splice connectors; one positive and one negative." ? I will definitely make sure the BTA will power automatically.
