TranceAddict

Massive Audio RK 6 (Components)

Sundown Saz 100.4d (4 ch Amp)

AudioControl LC8 (8 ch Line Output Converter)

Kicker 4 ch Amp Gauge (Power n Ground Wire)

+ 16 Gauge Speaker Wire Kicker

Just had these installed today . No I did not install them . Gonna get subs and mono amp ,custom enclosure very soon !


This is where the factory amp was. LC8 and SAX100.4 negated the need of a factory amp. Original amp inputs were ran to the LC8 via 18 guage Fierce Audio speaker wire. The LC8 and and SAX100.4 are connected via RCA cables in the trunk. SAX100.4 outputs are ran via Kicker 16 gauge speaker wire to the factory amp outputs with front right and center speakers bridged together. Combined power of LC8 and SAX100.4 negate the need to run wires from the amp directly to the speakers, trust me they get enough power

This is a factory amp bypass in a 2005 Acura TL without replacing the factory head unit. Parts used are a Line Output Converter (LOC): the Audio Control LC8, a 4 channel amp: the Sundown SAX100.4 (100 watts RMS @ 4 ohms per channel), Kicker 4 gauge 4 channel amp kit (comes with 50 ft. of 16 gauge Kicker speaker wire and 1 four channel RCA cable)

4 channel amp with 4 gauge Kicker install kit and 16 gauge Kicker wire ran to the factory amp output (passenger kick pannel). Excess wire for re-arrangement once second amp and subs are added

Audio Control LC8 Line Output Converter: this thing is how you get the preamp RCA outputs of an aftermarket head unit on your factory head unit, it also dramatically increases the output power so the gain on your amp is very low.

Has 8 input channels ran from factory amp input (passenger kick panel). The power is from the factory amp power wire (spliced at kick pannel and ran to trunk via driver power wire side). Channel 1 is front speakers, channel 2 is 1 center speaker, signal from channel 1 and 2 is sent from main output RCA (all channels can be connected to channel 1 for signal purposes). Channel 3 is the rear speakers. Channel 4 is the subwoofer (channel 4 on this LOC is designated for subs), output will be used for sub amp at a later install date. Obviously channel 1 and 3 are sent to the amp with channel 2's signal being sent through channel 1 (note the green light)

So far Im loving the RK6's ! These are definitley what I wanted ...loud n clear ! The one thing I noticed is the center speakers sound abit muddy when max out to 38-40 volume on some tracks . Other than that this setup kicks ass . Next up are (1) 12 SSA XCON's ,Sundown Saz 1500d V2 amp ,Custom ported enclosure

TranceAddict

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chardness

iTrader: (2)

exactly what i want to do. subscribed

eggyhustles

is the amp bridged? Those will want way more than 100w

TranceAddict

This is what he told me . Its not bridged . He ran the speakers bridged as opposed to parallel . Bridged loess the ohms of the speakers so the amp can send more wattage . That channel is at 1.5 ohms as opposed to 4 so the 2 speakers are getting enough power . Bridging speakers together lowers their individual resistance . Parallel speakers would have increased the ohms to a level the amp is unstable at . The amp is giving at least 150 watts to those 2 speakers .

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Glad you like the RK6's...I'm thinking mine will be up for sale for sale soon. I like a more laid back and smooth tweet. These are just too loud for me

Edit: Pics don't work for me...

eggyhustles

wait wait wait

How did he lower the ohm load?

The amp is suppose to be bridged so it gives you 320 x 2 @ 4 ohms. The components are a 4 ohm set. Did he ditch the crossovers?

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG

THIS IS without a doubt unimaginably WRONG. SO wrong i found myself laughing. Whoever told you this and think they know squat about electronics is completely dumb.

You wanna do some quick calculations here we go.... R1 (lets say speaker 1) is 4ohm and R2 is 4ohm also. Wired in SERIES your load is as calculated: R1 + R2 = 8ohm load. in PARALLEL: 1/(1/R1 + 1/R2) = 2ohm

Bridging an amp happens AT THE AMP output. For example Ch1 and Ch2 (front) each have a positive and negative terminal. Typically +-+-. May have to consult your amp owners manual, but to bridge the output for more power to 1 speaker the connections are done at the outside two terminals of Ch1 and Ch2 (+-+-). The impedance of the speaker, the load the amp sees, stays the same.

TranceAddict

The front right and center speaker are bridged together on one channel of the amp ...? Bridging the speakers lowers the ohms to half of thief average 4(right)+1.5(center)=5.5/2=2.75 combined ohm resistance with an RMS of them combined (100 + RMS of factory center cant be more than 50 watts) This amp delivers at least 100 watts RMS at 4 ohms but even more at 3 ohms (about 150) Everything was verified with the multimeter . Does that make sense ? Ditch the crossovers no

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

So ... what happened? lol Can someone explain this to me ... he wired the midbass speakers together to drop the resistance and then feed them to one channel ... then wired the tweeters to drop the resistance again to feed to another channel???????!?!

EDIT: Sorry - didn't read that you kept the crossovers. My understanding is that you normally bridge at the amp so that you utilize two channels for one speaker thereby doubling the rated power of what one channel would originally do on its own ... for left crossover lines you would utilize one positive of one channel and one negative of another as well as the same for the right, thereby utilizing all four channels in that manner ...

EDITx2 (fail): What djtsmith007 wrote depicts what I'm trying to portray as well

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

EDIT.....Why not just wire all the speakers together

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

^I don't know about calling out installers, but something doesn't sound right for sure lol

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

Math is wrong on all counts.

NOT EVEN CLOSE to the correct calculations...ahhhh!!! lol

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

You are right, shouldn't do that, i do apologize.

But as far as his logic and what this guy thinks he knows....

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

Oh I just meant it as a friendly comment - no worries man lol I'm no mod loll

Yeah, something's fishy according to my understanding ... if it caught the attention of three different people on here, I would say there's either a miscommunication or something wasn't installed correctly (i.e. there's a possibility)

TranceAddict

Im gonna give him a call tomorrow . Seems like he screwed up with the center and right bridged . Bummer

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

If im interpreting what he wrote correctly i think he means. Speaker 1 = 4ohm, speaker 2 = 1.5ohm. Wired in PARALLEL = 1/(1/4 + 1/1.5) = 1.0909ohm

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

Be careful because they will try to fast talk you and make you believe what he did was correct. Which it wasn't

geekybiker

The amp looks wired incorrectly. If what I'm seeing is right, he bridged channels 3 and 4 when you are supposed to bridge channels 1 and 2. I'm seeing three sets of speaker wires, 2 sets to the top, and one to the bottom.

eggyhustles

what type of people are you letting touch your car, bro? This is the second time someone has fucked up.

TranceAddict

I'll take a look at it tomorrow

TranceAddict

Ok I bridged the ch 1 and ch 2's together switched the neg's from 1 and 2 and yes it does sound louder and more bass than what I had . But it was not much of a difference in quality . I also disconnected the centers from the front right completely . Since their wasnt much of a difference ,I switched it back to where it was . I am also probably gonna get the matching RX 6's for rears .

eggyhustles

You should've noticed a big increase in output. Look it over 1 more time. Forget the rx6's, use that money toward deadening

TranceAddict

I'llll check again . He also tuned the amp low so the rear n center speakers wont blow . I disconnected the center speakers completely . Ok ,no RX 6

eggyhustles

Man, unwire all of that, and rewire everything up correctly. Then set the gain.

TranceAddict

I did and it sounds ail muddy at full volume . Yes much more power but around 36 and above it starts to sound muddy . When I turned the bass theres no bass but sounds clear at max volume . I'll keep tuning it more .

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

How the hell are you turning it up past 30! Mine is stupid loud at about 15. Thats with my pdx at about 1/2 gain. These tweeters SCREAM at low volumes before the mids even get going. Something is wrong if you can turn them up that loud bc they'd either blow or you'd go def..seriously. Easily the loudest tweets I've heard. Massive Audio is coming out with new CK's that have a new x-over to fix the tweet problem.

I hate cars

Over 32 and I get distortion... Of course it's not going to sound good at 36. You're not really supposed to run it at full volume.

Set the gains so you never have to go past 30.

This thread is kind of a mess. I agree with Eggy to rip all the wiring out and start over.

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

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