BAD DNKY

Looking to add a aftermarket 12 JL sub and want to add some more highs without having to go with the route of replacing the factory amp. I was thinking of replacing the center speaker and the tweeter with something that will sound better but can be run off the factory amp. Any suggesstions?

King of Pain

Most people have used Infinity Kappas with limited success.

jvinhj240

12"JL will over power your stock easy. You need to upgrade front speakers and tweeters.

BAD DNKY

anything that can be replaced without upgrading stock amp?

AMIC

I'm not sure what you mean by "limited success". Most of us who have put them in wanted a low-cost alternative to make the sound system a little better without doing a whole system upgrade. The installation is fairly simple and I think the Infinitys sound good and were worth the money.

It's all in what your looking for. If you want a drastic improvement, or a competition sound system then no you are not going to go with the Infinitys.

King of Pain

https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/need-help-searching-person-165383/


Read post #5

I have never heard these speakers but if your ears enjoy the sound then that's all that counts. I have auditioned infinity home speakers. They use metal dome tweeters and they tend to be too bright (almost shrill) for my ears. The tweeters I tend to like are soft dome which have a smoother high end.

I guess I'm a little more obsessed with my sound.

I hate cars

That's why after listening to mine for a while now, I turned the tweeters down on the Kappa door speakers. On some music the metal tweeters were very bright. They sound much, much better now. We'll see what happens after I install an amp...

Keep in mind the 63.7 requires no cutting or modifying of the door panel. That's part of the reason they're popular and even though they're not competition level, they're much better than stock.

I love the Infinity Reference series 2 ohm tweeters in the dash. The soft dome sounds so much better than the Kappa's metal dome. I have to wonder why the Kappas are considered better. If they make a Reference two way 2 ohm 6.5" speaker for the door, I would get it over the Kappa

Tripnbeats

BEYMA!!!!!! I had kappa perfects....they blew.....I had MB quart....they blew......the beymas are so loud u cant be in the car. I have the pro 6MI the 6MI ND are meant for the smaller holes in the doors....I got the 6mi cut the holes and made the bigger and then made a bracket for support....the rest is history.

jvinhj240

Are you running stock amps? Beyma speakers are 200watts?

Tripnbeats

u can run the stock amp... but on the front youd need to disconnect the tweeter to get the load at 4ohms. the amp i have is about 200 max per channel im not even pushing 100 max right now its so loud n clear..... i was thinking of putting a clarion mcd360 inbetween everything to tune it further but if it doesnt sound right im taking it out.

BAD DNKY

How Do You Hookup Components To The Stock Amp At 4 Ohms? How Many Watts Will The Stock Amp Put Out?

Tripnbeats

the amp was designed to put out 2 ohms per channel in the front if I remember correctly n 4 to the rear.....now if u disconnect the tweeters in the front its 4 ohm stable. Itll sound louder in the front because its not being bridged anymore but its going to output the same amount of wattage.

BAD DNKY

So i could unhook the tweeters and hook up the crossover to the wire for the door speakers, with one line running to mid and the other running to the tweeter? Would this also make it 4 ohm stable? It has been awhile since i have been in the car audio world and seemed to forget alot

Tripnbeats

thats right..... whats the crossover stable at? if its stable at 2 ohms itll bridge down to 2ohms if its stable at 4 it stays at 4

Tripnbeats

my personal input is try to hook up the mid without the crossover and see how it sounds and then try to hook it up with the crossover....if it sounds better without the cross over leave it without... but dont reconnect the tweeter 2ohms on the mid wont make it happy.

BAD DNKY

ok im alittle confused. You said dont hook up the tweeter but thats the whole reason i bought a component set because i need more highs. The crossover is stable at 4 ohms. I was going to unhook the stock tweeter and then hook up the original door speakers to the cross over. From the crossover i was going to hook up the mid (in the door) and then the tweeter (run a new wire to the original stock location and install the new tweeter leaving the original connection unhooked) Confused yet? Think this will sound ok? I got the Infinity Reference components that run at 75w rms.

Tripnbeats

ok hold on u need to take the original speaker out connect the wire from the speaker to the xover then from the xover to the 2 new speakers (tweeter woofer).....if u run the original speaker to the xover it wont work becuz its for 2ohms not 4......and something will short or wont work.

BAD DNKY

sorry that what i meant take out the door speaker and use the original wires to the x over and then have a line go to the mid and one to the tweeters. Would it sound ok though?

Tripnbeats

shouldnt be a prob

BAD DNKY

so what do i do with the wire from the stock tweeter? Tape them up and not use them right?

Tripnbeats

yea u dont need to tape it its a plug for it.

BAD DNKY

its a plug for it? You saying that you just unplug the speaker and leave it inside the hole right?

Tripnbeats

yes.

BAD DNKY

cool man thanks alot for the help. I swear im not a dumbass, forumns sometimes make it harder then having someone tell you in person what to do. Ill let you know how it turns out

joerockt

Good to know that all it takes is disconnecting the tweeters to get the fronts to 4 ohms. Does this go for the center speaker as well?

Now if someone would just make an adapter bracket for the front speakers...

Tripnbeats

adapter? dude jus take the round piece supporting the speakers..... measure it out on 3/4 mdf and have fun cutting circles lol n then screw it into the metal... the bracket the stock speakers sit in are maybe 1mm smaller than the 3/4 mdf and it fits perfect with any speakers u wanna put on top enjoy

BAD DNKY

Does anyone know what the sotck amp puts out to the door speakers once the tweeters are unhooked? I installed my components and they sound better than the stock but could be alittle louder. They are rated 75w rms and i was thnking about getting a amp to run them in the 50w-75w range at 4 ohms

Tripnbeats

Sub is at 50watt rms everything else at 25watt rms.... system is at 225watt I dont know 225 max or 225 rms....if its max then the sub is at 25 watt rms and the speakers are at 12.5 rms now since u disconnect the tweeters ur getting 25 clean watts to the front perside

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

I seriously think that just upgrading the speakers, without adding an amplifier, is a complete waste of time and money...

BAD DNKY

you think 50w 4 ohm load to each 75w rms speaker will sound better or should i try to get a 75w rms at 4 ohm amp? I found a kenwood 50wx2 (4 ohm) amp for $20. Its a older amp but for a $20 upgrade i thought it might be worth it. I was also planning on unplugging the stock sub once the new sub is in place

Tripnbeats

Rodney I agree.

Tripnbeats

ummmm depends on what the speaker rms is if its 75 then 150 max i wouldnt try to max it out but id get close trying..... trust me if ur to connect a seperate amp get this from davidnavone.com NE-7V it helps big time and well worth the money. If you have questions they answer you within an hour or so. but for the sub u only connect one channel on the input and split the RCA line out...the voltage coming out is powerful enough to suit anyones needs. I would stay with 4-8 ohms on speaker output from the amp only because anything 4ohms n below is really meant for low end bass. any amp that you think produces the sound you like is good....I prefer PPI or Rockford for highs n bass. MCinstosh is also sweet but super expensive.

BAD DNKY

so you saying to have 150w rms go to each 75w rms speaker? Or are you saying get close to 75w rms per speaker for a total of 150w?

Tripnbeats

if ur speaker is 75 rms then max is 150..... try to get close to that from each channel of ur amp even if its 50rms... 100 max from the amp its close. it'll be clear

drivincraze

For best quality, go with seperate JL amp and MB Quart Premiums....

Tripnbeats

Im sorry but I HATE JL amps Ive blown every single one of them thats Ive had from regular to slash series..... its all about personal preference..... so when u get one u like u'll know.....and mb quart speakers are ok but i blew those too....now Im running a 900watt rockford for highs n beyma piston speakers PRO 6MI http://car.beyma.com/ENGLISH/listapr...?id_familia=13 honestly nothing i have every heard can compare to these, the frequency response is insane.

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

yo tripnbeats.... how the hell you fit those monsters in the doors... you must be using a huge spacer... I had Beyma's in my Integra years back... great speakers... you just have to be real careful... and not send any low frequencies to them...

I just made the switch to Critical Mass C652... they sound perfect to me... plus a very slim design...

BAD DNKY

Is it possible to use one rca converter to two amps with rca Y spliters? I think i remember does this awhile ago and it working but its been about 5 years or so

Tripnbeats

hahahaha duuuddeee crazy fitment.....all stock looks though I took the spacer out.....cut the hole to make the magnet fit..... 3/4 mdf spacer measured out perfect....anything less or more is bad and it wont fit then i cut the plastic out from the door panel that sticks out from the grill on the inside..... no lows being sent the highs r tunned to a "T" the clarion xover i have actually makes a huge difference.....

Tripnbeats

Bad i wouldnt run one converter for 2 amps all the channels have specific volumes n frequencies it sounds a lot better if u do it separately Im using 3 of them....a lil investment but well worth it to get the right sounds