Front Door Speaker Suggestion - Based on Criteria

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Old 01-28-2013, 07:12 PM
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Front Door Speaker Suggestion - Based on Criteria

Hey Guys I was wondering if you could help with suggestions on Front Door Speakers. I'll try be specific on my budget and my needs for a future system. Thank in advance to anyone who can help!

I have a 2007 Type S and eventually want to upgrade the Front, Back speakers and also add in a sub.

The Amp i'm pretty sure (95%) I'm going to get is the JL Audio HD900/5.

For the rear I decided I'm gonna get cheap speakers in the back that I can order online (JL Audio C2s or something in that range, around $110ish online) and I know some people say to leave the rear alone but I at least want to go after market.

So for the front my price range is around $500 ish.....give or take.
Also take into account, I dont want to get too custom, so I want to use the factory tweeter location.

Based on this, in the past I have gotten the recommendation to use the Hybrid Clarus speaker (6.5" size). I did have a few question though, does this fit just fine after getting a 3/4" MDF board?

More important, the HD900/5 Amp is 100x4 Watts RMS and I looked up the Clarus spec sheet (hybrid-audio.com/downloads/specification-libraries-and-reference-guides/Clarus_Manual.pdf) and it says it takes 120 Watts RMS for the bigger speakers. is this an issue if i'm only giving it 100 watts RMS from the amp?
Im curious if any people on this forum have these particular speakers.


Also any other speakers you would recommend in that price range that would work with that amp which would give 100 watts rms to each speaker?

Thanks everyone
Old 01-28-2013, 08:15 PM
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You're fine w/ 100 wrms on the Clarus. They are a very nice speaker. I'm a big fan of the JL C5s in that price range too. They are really neutral though. Some people hear them as flat or dead, for me I love them.
Old 01-28-2013, 08:57 PM
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I would bridge them and leave the rears off. on oem amp off
Old 01-29-2013, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pohljm
I would bridge them and leave the rears off. on oem amp off
x2

Jl's site seems off

Main Channels - Bridged @ 8 Ω 200 W RMS x 2
Main Channels - Bridged @ 4 Ω 150 W RMS x 2
More power at a higher ohm?
Old 01-29-2013, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by eggyhustles
x2

Jl's site seems off



More power at a higher ohm?
interesting lol

Yeah i was thinking about leaving the rears off and I've seen the threads on here about that but I want the "rear fill" plus I have passengers in my car back seat a lot so I think i'll leave it that way. But based on that..seems like the 100 W RMS to each of the clarus' should be ok even though it says 120?
or any other speaker I choose...any other suggestions in the fronts besides the clarus or c5?
Old 01-29-2013, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ebernedo86
interesting lol

Yeah i was thinking about leaving the rears off and I've seen the threads on here about that but I want the "rear fill" plus I have passengers in my car back seat a lot so I think i'll leave it that way. But based on that..seems like the 100 W RMS to each of the clarus' should be ok even though it says 120?
or any other speaker I choose...any other suggestions in the fronts besides the clarus or c5?
The Clarus is a nice set. I have sold many of those to very happy customers. The 120 watts is what the speakers is rated for (thermally). Now, since music is dynamic and not a test tone (and you aren't always listening at the highest possible volume), you CAN send them much, much more without any problems. It doesn't mean you have to though.

I would highly recommend leaving the stock rears off the factory amp, as they work perfect for the purpose of rear fill. I would keep at little information as possible from bounding off the rear window and disrupting what the front speakers are trying to accomplish.

If you can spend a little more, I would also recommend the Dynaudio System 242 for your front components.

If you have any questions....PM me!
Old 01-29-2013, 01:08 PM
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The oem amp powering the oem rears are more than adequate for rear fill! Use that extra money and power where it counts. Do not introduce another set of tweeters behind anyone.

^^. Ooops jerry beat me to it!
Old 01-30-2013, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by eggyhustles
x2

Jl's site seems off



More power at a higher ohm?
That's accurate. The regulated power supplies do some non-intuitive things when bridging. One of their tech guys explained it to me once, but I honestly don't remember the details.

It was kind of like the Slash 300/4 used in 3 channel mode. You had to use an 8 ohm sub when bridging or else you'd only get 37.5 watts out of the front channels if you ran 4 ohm stereo + 4 ohm bridged.
Old 02-06-2013, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by niebur3
The Clarus is a nice set. I have sold many of those to very happy customers. The 120 watts is what the speakers is rated for (thermally). Now, since music is dynamic and not a test tone (and you aren't always listening at the highest possible volume), you CAN send them much, much more without any problems. It doesn't mean you have to though.

I would highly recommend leaving the stock rears off the factory amp, as they work perfect for the purpose of rear fill. I would keep at little information as possible from bounding off the rear window and disrupting what the front speakers are trying to accomplish.

If you can spend a little more, I would also recommend the Dynaudio System 242 for your front components.

If you have any questions....PM me!
Thanks Jerry..one reason why I want to get rid of the rear OEMs is because right now either one of them is blown out or has extra distortion than it used when I first got it, si figured eh two JL Audio c2s in the back (cheap online) and use those.

So in general would the 100 x2 to the clarus be sufficient if i do go this route and 100x2 to the JLs in the back??? Just curious and chasing down all paths etc
Old 02-06-2013, 02:53 PM
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100w is plenty. The power rating is just what they can take, not an indicator of the minimum they should be supplied with. I've seen actual power draw measured before and it's surprisingly low most of the time, to the tune of 10w or so for a reasonably loud volume.
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