Door Speakers on 2006 TL
#1
Door Speakers on 2006 TL
I think the ELS audio system on my 2006 TL is good, but not great. I tried every combination of audio settings but I am still not satisfied. No matter what I do, the mid range sounds a bit hollow. If I replace the door speakers with a pair of Infinity reference 6022I, and do nothing else, will it be worthwhile? Any opinion is appreciated.
#2
it will sound cleaner. those speakers are pretty efficient so they dont need much power. plus for 80-120 bucks you cant go wrong. but if you really want it to sound a lot better be ready for new amps and speakers throughout.
#3
Registered TL Lover
iTrader: (1)
I havent herd the infinitys but i DID compare specs with the polk DB and found them to be better I changed ALL my componets out with them leaving the stock amp. and combined with my RF 12 in the trunk. I have recieved lot of complements from a lot a car audio enthusists and one who WON serveral compettions stateing it sounded "better than my comp system, not louder but better"
#4
Team Owner
I replaced my doors, tweeters, and center with Infinities a long time ago and it made a nice difference. The rears are stock. Just added a JL audio 6 channel amp and I was amazed at the difference. The stock rears sounded as good as the Infinities up front and the Infinities are now very crisp and the midbass that they lacked for so long is back. I'm amazed at the abuse the stock rears have taken so far. I crossed them over fairly high at 120hz and the Infinities at 90hz but they're taking over twice the factory power without problems. At this point I would have trouble suggesting speakers or amp first.
#5
I don't mean to hijack this thread but I am going through the same thing myself right now. I have read the stock door speakers are 2 ohms while most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm. This leads to the speaker being softer when hooked up to the existing stock set-up. For those that have hooked up just aftermarket front and rears, have you noticed this at all? RJANACONDA, what Polk DBs did you use?
#6
Registered TL Lover
iTrader: (1)
Yes like most things in life, cars, computers, speakers you cant base performance on 1 of the many specs. While the resistance of a load will effect how much power gets dropped accrosed it, the sensitivity is basiacally the same as efficiancy so the higher the sensitivity the BETTER the speaker performs for what it gets. Not to mention the meterials used and frequecy responces.
My sound is just as loud if not a lil louder than stock and 100000xbetter audio quality.
polk db 651s for door and rear
polk db 351 center
polk db 1001 tweeter
My sound is just as loud if not a lil louder than stock and 100000xbetter audio quality.
polk db 651s for door and rear
polk db 351 center
polk db 1001 tweeter
#7
Originally Posted by thesheriff
I don't mean to hijack this thread but I am going through the same thing myself right now. I have read the stock door speakers are 2 ohms while most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm. This leads to the speaker being softer when hooked up to the existing stock set-up. For those that have hooked up just aftermarket front and rears, have you noticed this at all? RJANACONDA, what Polk DBs did you use?
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#8
Team Owner
Originally Posted by samirsosa
Yes, it didn't sound great in my TL when I yanked out the existing speakers. I put in Polk MoMo's. It sounded better, but it wasn't loud enough. I think the stock speakers were actually louder. Amps are a must!
#10
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Fulani has a TL
You ran stock speakers with aftermarket amp?
#11
Registered TL Lover
iTrader: (1)
well I guess bassed on the many diverce stances on this issues I think the BEST option would be to do 1 first. If you are looking for more volume, just add an aftermarket amp as suggusted first. if you are looking to improve your SQ then just do the speakers. I was satisfied with just speakers as I said so it may not be neccicary for you to upgrade everything to get the sound you desire.
#12
I am not looking for lots of volume. I am just looking for a richer sound. To me, the stock system lacks mid tones and sounds hollow. I listened to a pair of Polk 651 in a store (without amps, just straight from a radio) and they sounded very good. I am going to put them on the doors first, and then decide if I need to change anything else. Thanks for all the comments.
#14
gimme a 4G !!
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Hey guys,
I did the exact same Polk DB setup today (minus the center, wasn't in stock) as Rjanaconda... and the difference is amazing.
I played everything from A Perfect Circle to Chopin just to hear all frequencies and ranges, I freaking love my speakers..... finally!
just to clarify, Polk DB throughout the doors/rears/tweeters with stock amp, and stock sub = Mind blowing improvement
Amp upgrades are next.
I did the exact same Polk DB setup today (minus the center, wasn't in stock) as Rjanaconda... and the difference is amazing.
I played everything from A Perfect Circle to Chopin just to hear all frequencies and ranges, I freaking love my speakers..... finally!
just to clarify, Polk DB throughout the doors/rears/tweeters with stock amp, and stock sub = Mind blowing improvement
Amp upgrades are next.
#15
Dedpheonix, can you tell me how much trouble it was to replace the speakers? I heard that removing the back seats is not so easy. How was it for you? Did you use any dynamat? How about speaker harness connectors or adapters? Did you have to modify the speaker plastic baskets?
#16
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I had them professionally installed.
But yes, the back seats took them a few minutes to get off even with their tools. I didn't have to buy any extra harnesses or wiring kits so I will assume they weren't needed.
I do remember the installer mentioning the pain of getting some screw out through the slight hole in the headrests. He mentioned his hands were too big and needed the girl at the front counter to come do it.
But yes, the back seats took them a few minutes to get off even with their tools. I didn't have to buy any extra harnesses or wiring kits so I will assume they weren't needed.
I do remember the installer mentioning the pain of getting some screw out through the slight hole in the headrests. He mentioned his hands were too big and needed the girl at the front counter to come do it.
#17
Did you go to an car audio shop? I know Best Buy will install speakers, but I do not know how careful they are. The installers are mostly kids and I am afraid they will screw something up.
#19
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Originally Posted by trx123
Did you go to an car audio shop? I know Best Buy will install speakers, but I do not know how careful they are. The installers are mostly kids and I am afraid they will screw something up.
My installer was in his mid 20's and the speakers sound phenomenal, no dynamat but still no rattling or phantom vibrations at high volumes.
#20
Originally Posted by RJANACONDA
Yes like most things in life, cars, computers, speakers you cant base performance on 1 of the many specs. While the resistance of a load will effect how much power gets dropped accrosed it, the sensitivity is basiacally the same as efficiancy so the higher the sensitivity the BETTER the speaker performs for what it gets. Not to mention the meterials used and frequecy responces.
My sound is just as loud if not a lil louder than stock and 100000xbetter audio quality.
polk db 651s for door and rear
polk db 351 center
polk db 1001 tweeter
My sound is just as loud if not a lil louder than stock and 100000xbetter audio quality.
polk db 651s for door and rear
polk db 351 center
polk db 1001 tweeter
Just making sure before I place an order..
Or Deadphenix can answer this question. thanks
#21
gimme a 4G !!
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Originally Posted by Zero523
Hey when I went to order from Crutchfield. it says it does not fit an 04 TL, for the Polk db 651.. Is it a perfect fit? just a swap?
Just making sure before I place an order..
Or Deadphenix can answer this question. thanks
Just making sure before I place an order..
Or Deadphenix can answer this question. thanks
#22
Originally Posted by Dedpheonix
those Polks are currently residing happily and soundly in my TL.
you added the 651S right? with the S, theres a 651 and a 651S I don't know which to get.
Also the rear speakers are only 6 1/2" also?? did you install the same speakers in the rear?
Thanks
#25
Cruisin'
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Originally Posted by RJANACONDA
Yes like most things in life, cars, computers, speakers you cant base performance on 1 of the many specs. While the resistance of a load will effect how much power gets dropped accrosed it, the sensitivity is basiacally the same as efficiancy so the higher the sensitivity the BETTER the speaker performs for what it gets. Not to mention the meterials used and frequecy responces.
My sound is just as loud if not a lil louder than stock and 100000xbetter audio quality.
polk db 651s for door and rear
polk db 351 center
polk db 1001 tweeter
My sound is just as loud if not a lil louder than stock and 100000xbetter audio quality.
polk db 651s for door and rear
polk db 351 center
polk db 1001 tweeter
RHANACONDA - Did you consider the Polk DB691 for the rear deck? The Circuit City web site says they'll fit, but if the 651s are better (and fit well) I'll go with those. I have an '04 and have wanted to replace the speakers for some time now... it may be time to bite the bullet.
Also, will making a speaker change like this void the warranty on the stereo?
Thanks to all for your feedback!!
#26
Registered TL Lover
iTrader: (1)
Sorry I havent check this thread in a minute
TRX123- what I got did not come with a crossover so no i did not install one
ZERO523 & CDW 651S WILL fit both Rear and door. For the rear you will have to mount them using some plastic adapter brackets (they come with them) for the door just take out the factory speaker and place the polk in the plastic cup. you will notice it will not sit flush due to 3 lil plastic tabs. take a pair or pliers and just twist them off. if you order from crutchfield they will include the wire harness needed to plug in the door/rear speakers into the factory system without cutting. as far as warrenty is consered as long as you dont mess with the navi or factory head you should be straight only speakers your swapping so you should be good cuz all they do is replace the garbage speakers with more garbage speakers thats why i upgraded mine on my own. no if you say put an aftermarket amp and blow for FACTORY speaker they wont replace them. but who wants those? here is my thread with some pics that should help some of the fitment questions https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179399
JJaber06- yes the tweeter is detachable but i kept mine in place they fit fine with them in.
TRX123- what I got did not come with a crossover so no i did not install one
ZERO523 & CDW 651S WILL fit both Rear and door. For the rear you will have to mount them using some plastic adapter brackets (they come with them) for the door just take out the factory speaker and place the polk in the plastic cup. you will notice it will not sit flush due to 3 lil plastic tabs. take a pair or pliers and just twist them off. if you order from crutchfield they will include the wire harness needed to plug in the door/rear speakers into the factory system without cutting. as far as warrenty is consered as long as you dont mess with the navi or factory head you should be straight only speakers your swapping so you should be good cuz all they do is replace the garbage speakers with more garbage speakers thats why i upgraded mine on my own. no if you say put an aftermarket amp and blow for FACTORY speaker they wont replace them. but who wants those? here is my thread with some pics that should help some of the fitment questions https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179399
JJaber06- yes the tweeter is detachable but i kept mine in place they fit fine with them in.
#27
I ended up getting the Polk db 651S for the front door and the Polk db 651 for the rears for more bass, it should fit.
I dont think im going to need the tweeters. i dont like it too bright. it sounds fine the way it is . and obviously the Polks' will make the highs sound fine.
I dont think im going to need the tweeters. i dont like it too bright. it sounds fine the way it is . and obviously the Polks' will make the highs sound fine.
#29
Cruisin'
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RHANACONDA- Thank you for your suggestions and pictures on the other thread. I've ordered the same setup you have and will post an update once I receive them and get them installed. I'm really looking forward to the improved sound quality. Thanks again!!
#30
2008 NBP TL
1. Is there any kind of mounting bracket you would need to install speakers in the doors?
2. Does anybody know the depth allowable in the door panels for speakers? I have a pair of 6.5 " speakers I would like to install.
3. Is there any kind of mounting bracket you would need to install the rear speakers? Anybody have any links to the mounting products I would need to install?
2. Does anybody know the depth allowable in the door panels for speakers? I have a pair of 6.5 " speakers I would like to install.
3. Is there any kind of mounting bracket you would need to install the rear speakers? Anybody have any links to the mounting products I would need to install?
#31
I did it!
Finally I bought the 651S from Crutchfield and had them installed at Circuit City on the doors and the rear. They sound very good. Now I wonder if I should bother to install the 351 in the center? Will it make a big difference? What about the front tweeters, since the 651s have tweeters already? If anyone has a spare 351, I am intersted in buying it.
#32
Registered TL Lover
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TECH14
1 most likely yes the polk 651s will fit in the door reusing the factory cup(slightly modified) you may be ablt to do the same
2 i dunno
3 yes mounting bracet is needed I however reviced some for free with my order from crutchfield so im unsure as to exactly what you will need
1 most likely yes the polk 651s will fit in the door reusing the factory cup(slightly modified) you may be ablt to do the same
2 i dunno
3 yes mounting bracet is needed I however reviced some for free with my order from crutchfield so im unsure as to exactly what you will need
#33
Suzuka Master
I purchased all my speakers and amps from Crutchifield. The speakers all came with the plastic adapters and wiring factory adapters. I got the JL Audio VR600-CSi for the rear deck and the JL VR525-CSi''s for the doors. I did the install this weekend. Crutchfield sent detailed install sheets for these, specific to the TL, including pictures. I can scan these if anyone is interested. It's been gone over in other threads though. (PM me if you want to the PDFs)
I chose to take the signal AFTER the amp. I snipped out the speaker pairs and ran them to the line conditioner, then to the amp.
The door speakers were very easy to do. Taking the door panel off was a cinch. The part i was stuck on was figuring out how to get the signal to the door speakers. I opted for using the factory wiring. I wired into the leads going the door spkrs. The fronts signal goes to the amp, then the amp output goes to the crossovers uners the front seat, that wire goes through the console and over to the amp area and spliced into the factory speaker wires.
The rear deck speakers were a bit of a pain.... gool ole Dremel to the rescue. I have to notch the speaker edge a bit to allow the mounting screws to pass by and into the deck. I didn't dynamat the deck and may regret not doing so. As for removing the seat; I used a 1/4" drive w/6" extension for that 10mm bolt behind th headrest. REMEMBER TO ONLY LOOSEN IT, you don't have to take it out! If you take it out, it is not big deal, but makes it hard take out through that hole.
I took off the C pillar trim pieces. The Air bag covers were a tricky to put back it but found an easy solution using a #3 phillips screwdriver....
The sub was a pain also. The holes did not line up and no adapter was provided. The lip on the new sub was not wide enough to allow for bolting all the way around!
Anyway... it was worth the upgrade. It sounds great! If you guys have any questions, feel free to PM while it is fresh in my mind. I have photo of the finished product here:
click here for link
I chose to take the signal AFTER the amp. I snipped out the speaker pairs and ran them to the line conditioner, then to the amp.
The door speakers were very easy to do. Taking the door panel off was a cinch. The part i was stuck on was figuring out how to get the signal to the door speakers. I opted for using the factory wiring. I wired into the leads going the door spkrs. The fronts signal goes to the amp, then the amp output goes to the crossovers uners the front seat, that wire goes through the console and over to the amp area and spliced into the factory speaker wires.
The rear deck speakers were a bit of a pain.... gool ole Dremel to the rescue. I have to notch the speaker edge a bit to allow the mounting screws to pass by and into the deck. I didn't dynamat the deck and may regret not doing so. As for removing the seat; I used a 1/4" drive w/6" extension for that 10mm bolt behind th headrest. REMEMBER TO ONLY LOOSEN IT, you don't have to take it out! If you take it out, it is not big deal, but makes it hard take out through that hole.
I took off the C pillar trim pieces. The Air bag covers were a tricky to put back it but found an easy solution using a #3 phillips screwdriver....
The sub was a pain also. The holes did not line up and no adapter was provided. The lip on the new sub was not wide enough to allow for bolting all the way around!
Anyway... it was worth the upgrade. It sounds great! If you guys have any questions, feel free to PM while it is fresh in my mind. I have photo of the finished product here:
click here for link
#34
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Sale at Crutchfield!
FYI...
Those Polk 651s speakers are buy 1 pair - get 2nd pair at half price on Crutchfield.
Additionally, shipping is FREE. The total order for 4 x 6.5 speakers is $149.00!
Better hurry, the sale is good only through 7/08/08!
I couldn't refuse this deal. I ordered 2 pairs. Thanks everyone for their input.
- Trew
Those Polk 651s speakers are buy 1 pair - get 2nd pair at half price on Crutchfield.
Additionally, shipping is FREE. The total order for 4 x 6.5 speakers is $149.00!
Better hurry, the sale is good only through 7/08/08!
I couldn't refuse this deal. I ordered 2 pairs. Thanks everyone for their input.
- Trew
#36
2008 NBP TL
Originally Posted by Stew4HD
I purchased all my speakers and amps from Crutchifield. The speakers all came with the plastic adapters and wiring factory adapters. I got the JL Audio VR600-CSi for the rear deck and the JL VR525-CSi''s for the doors. I did the install this weekend. Crutchfield sent detailed install sheets for these, specific to the TL, including pictures. I can scan these if anyone is interested. It's been gone over in other threads though. (PM me if you want to the PDFs)
I chose to take the signal AFTER the amp. I snipped out the speaker pairs and ran them to the line conditioner, then to the amp.
The door speakers were very easy to do. Taking the door panel off was a cinch. The part i was stuck on was figuring out how to get the signal to the door speakers. I opted for using the factory wiring. I wired into the leads going the door spkrs. The fronts signal goes to the amp, then the amp output goes to the crossovers uners the front seat, that wire goes through the console and over to the amp area and spliced into the factory speaker wires.
The rear deck speakers were a bit of a pain.... gool ole Dremel to the rescue. I have to notch the speaker edge a bit to allow the mounting screws to pass by and into the deck. I didn't dynamat the deck and may regret not doing so. As for removing the seat; I used a 1/4" drive w/6" extension for that 10mm bolt behind th headrest. REMEMBER TO ONLY LOOSEN IT, you don't have to take it out! If you take it out, it is not big deal, but makes it hard take out through that hole.
I took off the C pillar trim pieces. The Air bag covers were a tricky to put back it but found an easy solution using a #3 phillips screwdriver....
The sub was a pain also. The holes did not line up and no adapter was provided. The lip on the new sub was not wide enough to allow for bolting all the way around!
Anyway... it was worth the upgrade. It sounds great! If you guys have any questions, feel free to PM while it is fresh in my mind. I have photo of the finished product here:
click here for link
I chose to take the signal AFTER the amp. I snipped out the speaker pairs and ran them to the line conditioner, then to the amp.
The door speakers were very easy to do. Taking the door panel off was a cinch. The part i was stuck on was figuring out how to get the signal to the door speakers. I opted for using the factory wiring. I wired into the leads going the door spkrs. The fronts signal goes to the amp, then the amp output goes to the crossovers uners the front seat, that wire goes through the console and over to the amp area and spliced into the factory speaker wires.
The rear deck speakers were a bit of a pain.... gool ole Dremel to the rescue. I have to notch the speaker edge a bit to allow the mounting screws to pass by and into the deck. I didn't dynamat the deck and may regret not doing so. As for removing the seat; I used a 1/4" drive w/6" extension for that 10mm bolt behind th headrest. REMEMBER TO ONLY LOOSEN IT, you don't have to take it out! If you take it out, it is not big deal, but makes it hard take out through that hole.
I took off the C pillar trim pieces. The Air bag covers were a tricky to put back it but found an easy solution using a #3 phillips screwdriver....
The sub was a pain also. The holes did not line up and no adapter was provided. The lip on the new sub was not wide enough to allow for bolting all the way around!
Anyway... it was worth the upgrade. It sounds great! If you guys have any questions, feel free to PM while it is fresh in my mind. I have photo of the finished product here:
click here for link
#37
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by tech14
Did you HAVE to take out the C Pillars to remove the rear deck? If so, do you have scans that show how to remove the C pillar?
It's pretty easy to do. You have to lift out the door seal far eenough to clear the trim piece, then carefully pry out the air bag clip just until it clicks (about an inch) and not all the way out.
Here is a link to the scan of the page:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...trimremove.jpg
#38
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Piece of Cake!
My DB651s speakers came in today. I decided to crack open the door panels and replace the door speakers. It took me less than 1 hour to replace them both completely. The first side took me about 40 minutes, because I was terrified of breaking something on my baby. This is the first time I've ever attempted changing ANYTHING on my '05 TL since I bought it!
This was the easiest speaker replacement I've ever done. I wanted to post this for those of you who were considering doing a speaker upgrade. By following the excellent DIYs found on this site, I was well armed for the task. a total of 4 phillips head screws on each door, a few pop off door clips and a quick disconnect of the door opening cable. No special tools at all. Just a phillips screwdriver, a small pick and a cutting pliers.
A bit of info about the speakers. These Polk DB651s speakers are 6.5 inches (compared to the smaller 5.25 stock door speakers) but they fit perfectly in the stock hole. This is because the stock speakers have 3 ginormous ears that make the circumference of the speaker bigger. The only thing I had to do was cut 3 little nubs off the plastic backing that the speaker drops into. These nubs were a kind of clip for the factory speakers and they stuck out about 1/4 inch from the face of the plastic housing. I don't have any pics, but I assure you, it only took me 15 seconds to cut them off so the new speaker would fit flush against the housing.
Crutchfield did a fantastic job with this sale by including connectors that fit into the stock speaker harness. No wires to cut! They also included mounting adapters that were not needed for the doors. To make it even easier, they included a step-by-step on removing the door panels. If you decide to order these speakers, they might hold up your order because they think the door speakers will not fit. Just tell them it will fit because friends of yours with the same car recommended these very speakers.
As for the sound...
Definite improvement over the stock speakers, and I've only replaced 2. If you're new to speaker replacement in your vehicle, I recommend doing the doors first so you get a feel for this kind of mod.
I will tackle the rear speakers when I get back from vacation, and run my amp wires while I have everything ripped out.
Hope this was helpful.
- Trew
This was the easiest speaker replacement I've ever done. I wanted to post this for those of you who were considering doing a speaker upgrade. By following the excellent DIYs found on this site, I was well armed for the task. a total of 4 phillips head screws on each door, a few pop off door clips and a quick disconnect of the door opening cable. No special tools at all. Just a phillips screwdriver, a small pick and a cutting pliers.
A bit of info about the speakers. These Polk DB651s speakers are 6.5 inches (compared to the smaller 5.25 stock door speakers) but they fit perfectly in the stock hole. This is because the stock speakers have 3 ginormous ears that make the circumference of the speaker bigger. The only thing I had to do was cut 3 little nubs off the plastic backing that the speaker drops into. These nubs were a kind of clip for the factory speakers and they stuck out about 1/4 inch from the face of the plastic housing. I don't have any pics, but I assure you, it only took me 15 seconds to cut them off so the new speaker would fit flush against the housing.
Crutchfield did a fantastic job with this sale by including connectors that fit into the stock speaker harness. No wires to cut! They also included mounting adapters that were not needed for the doors. To make it even easier, they included a step-by-step on removing the door panels. If you decide to order these speakers, they might hold up your order because they think the door speakers will not fit. Just tell them it will fit because friends of yours with the same car recommended these very speakers.
As for the sound...
Definite improvement over the stock speakers, and I've only replaced 2. If you're new to speaker replacement in your vehicle, I recommend doing the doors first so you get a feel for this kind of mod.
I will tackle the rear speakers when I get back from vacation, and run my amp wires while I have everything ripped out.
Hope this was helpful.
- Trew
#39
Originally Posted by I hate cars
I always disagreed with that statement until I tried it. Amps are a must! The JL audio 6 channel is really nice, more power than I could ever need, you can find it for under $400 new, and you keep all of the features. I would suggest it for anyone with a limited budget like me.
Thanks
#40
Retired!!! ON TOP!!!
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by RBP_04TL
i might sell all 4 of my Infinitys plus center ch speaker... why? cuz im plannin on upgradin 2 better ones, so keep an eye out at the BM
yo Evan... Holla at Eddie... he's looking to upgrade real soon... that's if you decide to upgrade