If I can pick up a processor that also boosts signal prior to amps, then I will probably consider getting one too. I'm sure I can sell my line driver.

IHC...it wasn't a nice thing to do, buddy...it was the right thing to do. Especially since you were giving me an amazing deal and were totally forthright about the whole thing. I wish more people in the world did business (or friendship for that matter) like you and I had no problem showing it.

Have a great one.

 

I think they pretty much all act as line drivers as well as processors. the 3sixty.2 gives 6v rms

 

Thanks, Geeky.

I talked to another shop and they are charging $275 for labor and suggested I get the Audiocontrol LC6, is this the same as the Matrix. Do I need to get the subwoofer control for this as well as he mentioned something about it.

 

The lc6 is the opposite of the matrix. It is a line out converter. It'll take your post amp speaker level outs and convert them to line level level for the amp.
Either the lc6, the matrix, or a 3sixty.2 will work. I think the matrix or 3sixty are better choices since you don't have to worry about the crossovers and EQ built into the stock amp.

He's probably just more familiar with the lc6 since most cars don't have a place to get the line level outs. We do.

 

Matrix > Lc6. If you're already spending this kind of money, why not process it for cheap. I didn't think you could find full processing for $200 but it's definitely worth it

 

Is there a huge difference with the RF 360 compared to the Matrix?

I found a used Matrix for around $90 and a 360 for about $280 and was wondering if I should spend the extra and get the 360, but like Trunk said earlier it might be overkill for my setup.

 

Even if you meant the 360.2...that's still too much. You can find them for $200-$230 shipped all day.


Matrix: Boost the voltage of your signal and send a balanced signal to your amps. That's it

Processor: Boost voltage, send a balanced signal, multiple bands of EQ, Time Alignment, user set x-over and slope settings for any speaker, level matching...maybe others I'm missing. For the extra $100...it's a big BIG change in the system. Especially if you have a fully system and/or change things often.

 

Yah. There is a big difference. $280 is too much though. I wouldn't pay more than $250 shipped. Its worth the extra 100-$150 you should be paying over a matrix imho.

PM the guy who responded to this thread
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...sixty-2-a.html

Maybe he'll make you a deal.

 

^Thanks Geeky, I put in two offers so we will see.

Alright guys last question and I'll STFU lol. The "big 3" is this recommended and have you done it? If so where can I purchase a kit?

 

It wouldn't hurt but its not really needed unless your running multiple amps that draw alot of current. Todays amps are much more efficient then they were 10 years ago. If you were to do it there really isn't a "kit" you can buy. You just need some heavy gauge wire and ring terminals. Battery(+) to alternator, Battery(-) to chassis, Battery(-) to engine.

 

I've done the big 3. Lights didn't dim before and I didn't notice a change after.

It's not necessary in my case but it's nice to have. I used 8-10 ft of 0 gauge and copper ring terminals I got from the auto parts store.

 

I think the big 3 depends on the car as much as the system. I did it on the GN, in fact I added incredible redundancy to that car so there were multiple paths in case one failed.

On the TL it doesn't seem to be necessary unless you're running an extremely power hungry system. System efficiency will play a large part. I have two JL HD amps that are very efficient and a pair of subs that require 150w each. I haven't done the big 3 and probably never will.

 

Have you seen any of these deals lately?

 

^PM Dzaazter on DIYMA as he has one for sale in a week or so for $260.

 

Geeky-I broke down and bought a new one lol. I figure it's worth it for the long run.

 

Heh. Well I hope you enjoy it. If I were considering a new one, I'd probably be looking at the ms8.

 

Yeah, just put up a WTB thread on DIYMA or search old 3sixty.2 FS threads that the guy never sold it. I put up a WTB and had 4 people the first week PM me

Not sure that's the route I would have chosen if buying new but glad you got one. What'd ya pay?

 

I actually offered $300 for it since it was brand new, however I noticed a "refurbished" sticker on one of the pics and decided to cancel the payment so I am still looking for one.

The seller said that since it had the bluetooth update it was refurbished, not sure if this is common or what but I decided that paying $300 for a refurbished one is way to much.

 

I saw one recently for $225 on DIYMA. Probably sold by now cause I can't find it.

 

I'll look at my PM's and see which people still have the 360.2 that PM'd me on DIYMA

 

If you could let me know if any are available that would be great.

I also posted a "WTB" on caraudio for one as well, but most of the sellers want $260+ for it.

 

Well, I kinda have some buyers remorse going on but it does sound better then before, but for the amount I paid I was expecting more.

One of the major disapointments is that my RF 3sixty.2, that I bought used, bluetooth chip isn't working. It will cost $130 to have it shipped and fixed by RF. I bought this used and am probably screwed since the seller has already got my payment. I am in a rut and don't know to sell as is, or spend more and get this thing fixed and installed.

Some issues are the known bass distortion, I know I need to disable the rear ANC mic and will try that this week. The other issue I am having is that I am getting no bass from my front comps, this is suprising since the amp should be giving it 150w rms to it. The crossover are mounted in the trunk so I will try to take a pic and see if anyone can guide me on how to adjust them, if needed.

Overall, the system sounds good, not great. It is currently hooked up with the LOC. The rear speakers, sub are all still there is the installed was charging extra to have it removed. The rear-pass through has a board against it so I can't let in air that way either as the bass may a way to get into the cabin.

Thanks in advance for any input on my situation lol.

 

Since the 360 was defective you ended up taking the post amp signal into the LOC right?

You need to disconnect the mic if your car has it. I think it's only in the 07-08 models.

Did you check to make sure that the amp's crossover is set up correctly? If you can turn it off you should try that since you're using the passives that came with the components.

What's the board doing over the pass thru? Where is the box mounted in the trunk? You might want to try to move it's position. I had a sealed box in another car and it was mounted on the rear side similar to uncald4's box and it worked good. Are you using the low pass setting on the amp for your sub? You might want to play with the crossover setting on that also...but fix the mic issue first.

 

If you don't mind me asking, what is the point of unplugging the MIC?

 

so it doesn't provide feedback thru the system.

 

It makes noise (through the stock sub)180 degrees out of phase with ambient noise so that they cancel each other out so you hear less road noise. Obviously it's calibrated for a weak 8" sub with less than 100w going to it. You throw a pair of 12s with 1,000w and you're going to upset the system.