Dooley

hooray ... great writeup!

Now I am greatly motivated to go ahead and do the install! If you get a bunch of pm's sometime from me.. dont be suprised

datmrman

No problem. I've been getting them lately.

If you post your questions, others may be able to help you as well.

tnmg

Alright, couple more questions. How big an opening did you cut in the license plat light cover? Did you remove the video plug, pass it through and reconnect it? Or just cut an opening the size of the plug? And how/what did you use as a grommet to help keep water out? I know what a grommet is, but where do you get them or make them?

Thanks

kennyc

I just cut a slit off the license plate light and run the wire into that slit.

I then seal it with clear silicone.

datmrman

I just drilled a hole near the corner of the license plate light cover until I could pass the camera plug through it. With the coned shaped attachment on my rotary tool, it was pretty easy. It's just trial and error. You can see from the picture below that I disconnected the camera wire.



As for the grommet, it has a 1/2" inside diameter and I bought a 4-pack from Home Depot. I trimmed it a bit and with some trial and error, I got it to wrap around the camera cable and fit snugly in the license plate light cover. Once that was set, I placed the cover back in the trunk and it looked like this.



The final touch was to add sealant around the grommet and the camera cable. That is done after you've mounted the camera and pushed the extra cable slack through the cover.

KJSmitty

Also,
Even if a little water did make it in to that area of the trunklid - no problem.

It is double walled thus the water will just flow to the bottom and out the drain holes - as designed..

I chose a very small Sony camera that had the specs/mount I wanted yet one draw back was the size of hole I had to drill in the trunk due to the wiring harness design. Bottom line, perfectly sealing the whole isn't the main concern, using a good grommet in order to keep from chaffing your camera harness is..

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

Link us up to this sony camera you use. Do you have any pictures? Its always good to have options......

KJSmitty

Here you go lembowski..








The first link is the camera page yet the photo on the H2/3 doesn't do it justice.. $169 was the price - ground shipping was extremely fast (2-3 days). More expensive than the Ebay camera but I wanted 150 degrees of view. The little housing/bezel (and being a sony CCD) had me intrigued about the purchase as well...

The second link shows the camera better, sitting amongst the rest of a kit... Just so you guys know, the entire black camera housing you see is only about a 1 inch by 1 inch by 1.25 inch block/shape. Takes a little more creativity on the TL mount yet looks and functions great. The small black rectangular box that you see under the camera on the second link is what causes you to cut a larger hole in the trunklid for install... It's about 3/4 inch by 2 inch by 3/8 inch big... You could get by without the bigger hole yet that little rectangular box on the harness would have to be on the outside of the trunk with the camera. Doable, but I chose the bigger hole route.

I'll post pictures of my finished install - they can be my first if I can figure it out... Ron has always helped with my lack-of-picture-posting capability in the past....


Let me know if anyone has any questions.

Smitty

tnmg

Ok, in the first picture, did you have to remove the black plastic piece that "frames" the two lights? I was looking at mine last night and it looks like you have to remove or cut the piece. In the second picture, your camera is right where the plastic piece comes back together. Did you cut that out to mount the camera to the trunk? Or remove the piece and mount the camera mount to the trunk and the camera somehow fit around?

I think I confused myself..

Also, one of my friends told me that all Hondas/Acuras he's ever worked on had a power terminal on the left side of the trunk (if you were standing behind the car) that could be tapped for power. He said this normally powered your tail lights, etc. I was hoping to use that to power Dom's converter. But if it is how he described, then its probably not switched (acc on) power right?

datmrman

I think the "black plastic piece" you are talking about is just the thin foam insulation to keep water out. I just used my rotary tool to drill right through that.

You will also need the rotary tool to cut out the plastic on top of the license plate as indicated in step 10 on the first page. Cut the plastic piece and then shape it to fit the camera.



I think you have confused yourself. Just reread the first post again and hopefully it will clear it up.

About the power terminal on the left side of the trunk, I am not sure if it exists in the TL. Also, if it is used to power the tail lights, that would mean you would need to have your lights on in order for Dom's module to work. Dom's module requires power to be operational (even to display the original factory navi screen). Not very optimal to use that power source IMO.

sunnyflava99

I just ordered Dom's TVandNav2Go PNP, can't wait to do the installl until I read the thread on the converter voiding the warranty. Is this true? the nav unit's pretty expensive... wouldn't want to &*%$ it up.

datmrman

If you go with the PNP and use the mini add-a-circuit method for power, I can't see how that voids the navigation warranty. You are not tapping into any factory wiring. Thats the advantage of the PnP harness.

wnplt's (the OP of the thread you're talking about) spliced into the navigation unit to provide power for Dom's unit. It is not recommended by many members as well as Dominic from TVandNav2Go.

Just my .

KJSmitty

I had a moment of "Hmmmmmm" myself..

Bottom line, any mod will likely place some degree of risk on whether or not a car manufacturer/dealer will warranty a specific item.. All you can do is perform a smart and professional install and hope all goes well. It's like the individual alluded to in that thread. If you want/enjoy having the particular mod/upgrade, you take the risk,, if not - don't..
I for one would not sit around for 4 years and wait for my warranty to expire... If my mod messes something up I will either pay now or then anyway... If an OEM part decides to fail within/earlier than 4 years - unrelated to my mod, then it's off to my dealer to have a professional discussion with hopefully an outcome with both of our interests in mind.. Unless the failure is blatantly caused by an "outside" source, a decent dealer will attempt to help you out.. It's the regional rep that can screw you....

Good luck

tnmg

Well my plan was to use Dom's unit anyhow. The warranty issue in the other thread is not a Dom unit. And I plan to use Dom's PNP. Then unplug and conceal everything when I take the car in for service. If its not in line, all they can do is speculate..

tnmg

Ahh, missed this picture. I figured you cut that plastic piece out. That pictures answers my question. I don't think the power terminal in the left side of the trunk (if its even there) only cuts on when you power the tail lights. I'll do some more looking into this.

Also, does the trunk lining come out pretty easily? I found a link somewhere for removing the seats, but nothing for telling me how to remove all the trunk liners. Only car I've ever exposed before had clips and fasteners that were VERY easy to snap.

datmrman

The lower trunk lining is not difficult to remove.

1. Remove the rear trunk trim panel by slowly and gently pulling it up. There are 4 clips that hold it in place.
2. Then remove the spare tire lid.
3. Next, unscrew the cargo net mounting screws (screws D and bolt E).
4. I had the most difficulty with the clip near the opening of the trunk (clip B). I think a small flat head screw driver just enters the small groove and pops it out.

Fortunately for me, I just needed to remove the tire lid and the right side.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

That's a completely wrong statement guys... Just becasue there's no solder involved doesn't mean there's not a "change" happening in the system.
Use of a PNP harness IS A TAP. Your TAPING VIA a harness, instead of peeling the insulation back... but the results are the same.

The lesson from this thread is...
1) Mod at your own risk to warranty
2) Make mods modular/removeable so if you have an issue they can removed without the dealer knowing they we're ever there.

"Mini Fuse -Add a circuits" are false comfort. Even DOM said it. He reccomends thier use so the device can be removed easily/cleanly and it gives the dealer less ammo.

Don't think for a minute that if the orignal poster had installed an add a circuit, the dealer would have found the PNP harness connection to blame for his Nav failure. Some dealers are just like that.

His mistake was going to the dealer with a Nav problem and NOT removing the converter.

datmrman

I agree with that.

You can cover your tracks with a harness much easier and cleaner than wire splices.

PsychFish

I did the install and noticed one issue. I have the power using the add a circuit method. The problem I have is when I lock the windows it kills power to the doms unit and thus dims the NAV screen. Is there a different circuit I could safely use?

The circuit is also used for my V1

Crook

PsychFish,
You never told us which fuse you tapped into.

KJSmitty

Tap into the cigarette lighter within the center arm rest/rear console - the one within the large rear glove box area etc.. Even though this circuit is factory "fused" I would install a 3 amp (max) inline fuse for Doms unit etc.. I installed my inline fuse in a way that allows you to access it if needed via the emergency brake cable adjustment access panel within the center glove box..

MELIT

PSYCHFISH,
YOU CAN ALSO TAP INTO FUSE 32 USEING THE ADD A CIRCUIT. I beleive you tapped into the window lock circuit and thus when locking out the window controls, it cuts the power to DOM's unit. Using a difference source such as 32 will provide you with constant power when the ignition is in the "on" position.

jfkv

I want to power both the PIE X3 and Dom's unit using an add a circuit to fuse 32. From what I am reading it sounds like I should be good to go doing this but wanted to do a quick double check before I blew something up. Can anyone confirm that this is ok to do?

Thanks!

FADE

I used Vampire taps on the positve lead to the cig lighter in the center console. Works great and no cut wires. I ran all my grounds to the trunk factory ground nut.

jfkv

You have a link for those? Do I just get them at the local auto store?

FADE

You can go to Wal Mart and get them. The real name for them is Line Tap Connects. I got some that were made by 3M.

Taps

dennisil

your a contradict this is the second post today where you said somthing like you didnt need to bla bla bla.... come on dude.. STFU.

datmrman

That comment was made more than 3 months ago. It is still a good comment in which he makes a valid suggestion.

Here is my reponse:

Comments like his are welcomed. Comments like yours are not. Unless you have something useful to say, please keep your opinions to yourself.


Theres no need to continue this further. Lets get back on topic please. Thank you.

chris32111

is there anyone in florida that can do work like this? i have everything and have had it for months i waiting for someone to install it? help

datmrman

The instructions aren't good enough for you?

It's really not that difficult. This was my first full fledge car electronic install. Just let us know if you have any questions.

kfhughes

Just did the install yesterday and wanted to post while details were fresh in my mind.

First, the explanations given here were really great. I brought my laptop into the garage and set it up next to the car, and just used it as a step-by-step guide.

Second, props to Dom's and Wendy for their support of Acurazine. I was able to make the latest group buy for the back-up unit, and Wendy gave a discount on the camera for mentioning Acurazine.

Third, I wanted to wire my system so the toggle switch on the dash would let me turn on the rear-view camera on demand. I purchased a Y-adapter audio cable at Radio Shack (female to two males or male to two males and for now spliced the camera +12 line to the +12 line for Dom's unit. This means the camera is always on but it doesn't draw a lot of current (more on that later) so I'm not too concerned. I may build a small circuit later which switches the camera on when either the toggle is set of the back-up lights are on, but it's fine for now.

Minor points about the installation:

Step 0: Disconnect the battery. This should probably go without saying (which I guess is why I didn't see it mentioned in the how-to), but I learned from experience that if you don't tell someone this, they will find a way to short something out and end up blowing a fuse somewhere. When I needed to test something, I would temporarily connect the battery again

Step 1: I think this was mentioned somewhere, but not sure. If you opt to remove the rear seat back, the two upper bolts (C) are hidden behind the vertical slit i the leather below the headrests. Also, be sure you have a ratchet extension or two for this. It ended up being such a pain trying to get them out (which I wanted to do so I could completely remove the right rear trunk liner) that we left them in.



Step 5: You probably need terminal lugs of some sort when connecting to the grounding bolt. I used one for the smaller wires (the 5 from the navi and one from the camera) and another for the larger wire on the PNP cable. These spade terminals are just big enough to fit around the bolt; something slightly larger would be better if you can find them.

Step 8: If you opt to add a switch on the driver's dash lower cover, be sure to follow the instructions and disconnect the temperature sensor connector and air hose. I didn't read this closely enough and snapped off some small plastic tabs from the connector (it seems to hold together OK, but was annoying).

Step 9: When you remove the license plate enclosure, there are three gold screws across the back top. If you remove these, the "chrome" piece which runs across the top can be removed. I found this useful so I didn't accidentally scratch it while using the Dremel.

Step 13a: For step 14, you want to have the navi on a while to make the adjustments. If you disconnected the battery, remember to have your 4-digit navi security code handy. Otherwise the screen will blank after about 30 seconds of inactivity. Same goes for your radio: you'll need to enter the 5-digit code using the radio's pre-set buttons to re-enable it (and hey, it doesn't forget what your presets were).

Step 14: As long as the key is in the accessory position and the hand brake is set, you can do the camera adjustments by yourself. With the trunk down, you can see the navi screen through the rear window (although it is a little small). A suggestion is to get something which contrasts well with your background (a bright red piece of 8.5"x11" paper or something) and move it around behind the car until you can see it appear on the navi screen. I used this to see where the "top" of the image appeared.

---------------------

In-line fuses and current draw: There was lots of talk about what amp fuses to use, but nothing with Dom's unit gave any specifications, and I wasn't sure I trusted wendy's e-bay description of 40mA. Before wiring into the car, I powered up everything using an HP/Agilent digital power supply with a built-in ammeter. The only thing not wired up was the TV-OUT (since it's a 9-pin adapter, and I didn't have any archaic PC monitors to hook it to). At +12 volts, I measured a total of about 230-240mA draw by the camera and back-up unit when the back-up signal was on (wired to +12) and about 180mA when off. The camera by itself drew a little under 50mA. Interestingly, it must have an internal voltage regulator since I got a pretty steady current draw from under +5V up to +12V. Dom's unit, on the other hand, began to draw more current as the voltage was dropped. Anyway, it looks like a 1A in-line fuse should be more than enough to ensure a short here will blow the fuse.

datmrman

Thanks for the additional tips. I've updated the first post and added a link to your tips.

LarrysAcuraTL

I just ordered a Kenwood CCD-900 back up camera, and tht is the only thing i wanted to install. on the instuctions everything looks straight forward, except that it asks to hook up a video cable from the kenwood module to the back of the Nav screen. i have an 06 Tl and i dont have any video jacks, does the back of the nav screen have that or do i have to install something to get a aux video jack?

datmrman

You will have to buy a video interface like Dom's TVandNav2Go module to be able to connect any additional video source to the factory navigation. There's lots of info about this particular module on here. Just check out the FAQ for info on the group buy thread.

BTW, I deleted your duplicate post in the other backup camera thread. No need to double post across threads. Once you get this module, you will be able to install that DVD player you wanted as well.

edit:
Actually, the first post of this thread has a link to the Group Buys and Sponsored Sales forum. You will be able to find the Dom's group buy thread there. There are actually quite a few Dom threads recently as well.

Evader

datmrman, thanks for the quick PM response. I remember seeing this thread now, just didn't look here ago because I was thinking it was just for the camera. I think i'm finally going to tackel this project in a couple weeks. I'm sure I'll find some way to screw this up lol but I guess If I get stuck I can always come on here and scream for help, haha.

I think taking the console and back seats out is really the best way to go since it gives you total access

Anyone in jersey want to tackle this with me? I have never done a project like this before so anyone with knowledge would be a great help! Maybe we could take a weekend and do both our rides. Otherwise, wish me luck... I'm going to need it!

datmrman

Like I said in my PM, just study the DIY on this forum and you will be fine. Know exactly what you are getting into and what you need to do and things will fly smoothly.

BTW, here is the continuation of this thread if you plan on installing an audio interface (even though you don't need one in the '07+) for a media player: TVandNav2Go, Mediagate MG-25P, and PIE X3 Installed

Good luck with the install. Looking forward to hearing good news.

gynuine69

datmrman,

hate to beat a dead horse, but amazing DIY on this. I know absolutely nothing about cars and installation and I feel as tho I could install this myself. I had one quick question tho about installing an audio interface along with the TVandNav2Go mod...

I currently am in the process of purchasing/installing either the Dice or Neo Pro Link product for the ipod (with text display) conversion for my 05 TL w/ nav. However, I am also interested in installing a back up camera but am unsure if it is possible. Do you or anyone else have experience with installing both the TVandNav2Go back up camera mod and either the Dice or Neo pro link? At a high-level, how would it be configured?

datmrman

Thanks gynuine69. In short, yes it is possible. iPod integration with a backup camera is possible and is fairly popular on here. Let me see if I can break it down for you.

Dom's TVandNav2Go module is a video interface (it provides the video inputs) while the DICE/Neo are audio interfaces (it provides the audio inputs). They act independently of one another. The TVandNav2Go taps into the DVD-Rom drive in the trunk while the audio interfaces connect behind the head unit in the center console.

The backup camera depends only on the TVandNav2Go module since it does not require sound. An iPod in normal audio playing mode (even with text display) will just require the audio interface. The tricky part is outputting video AND sound from an iPod video. You will have to send video to the TVandNav2Go and send the audio to the audio interface.

This has all been done before with different interfaces (Valor iLink, PIE X3, USA Spec). There is a section in the 3G TL Audio & Electronics FAQ that covers video iPods if you're interested.

I hope that helps. Good luck on your research.

gynuine69

Just the answer I was looking for.. Thanks alot for that great explanation. However, a curve ball was thrown at me when I saw your mediagate mod! haha... just when i thought I knew what I wanted to do! Ill do some research... I personally dont think I need video input, etc (although I would be fun to have).

datmrman

The TVandNav2Go provides two video inputs for you, one of which you will use for the backup camera. The other is there. It's just a matter if you want to extend cables to make it accessible post-installation. Again, good luck!