NHfastandfree

I saw a youtube video on here a while back where someone made a custom box that ported through the factory sub location. I looked around the forum for the blue print but found nothing. I was wondering if anybody has done something like this and if so what are the dimensions and specs,



Thanks guys!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Dimensions and specs rely on your speaker choice.
you simply cant grab some one else's specs.

you can copy the design somewhat, but its purely based on what speaker you have.

Check these two threads.

NHfastandfree

Thanks for the info. The reason I asked for the dimensions and specs is because I haven't bought my system yet and wanted to see what worked best in what.


Do you think the sound will be better ported through the rear armrest or though the oem stock sub location. I am trying to avoid rattles as much as possible.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

those two guys and I hate cars have the "miracle box"
it sits over the axles and not in the "trunk" per se. So in essence, it doesnt produce rattles like a conventional sealed box sitting in the corner of the trunk where all the loose metal is. Plus, the sound is ported into the cabin.

speaker choice is up to you.
I'll tell you this tho, the 2nd link, Roger used a tiny 10 inch low profile sub. he said the box is so efficient that the 10 bangs too loud and he might have to downgrade to a 8 inch.

NHfastandfree

Ahh gotcha makes sense and thats crazy a tiny 10 can do that much haha


In my other car Im running two 12in type rs in a custom ported box . Running it a 1 ohm around 800 watts realistically. Im thinking of just putting 1 w6 12inch or 1 w7 10in in the tl or maybe a w3 if I can make a good box

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good!
Keep us updated on what route you take.

I'm currently building the mini dream box. its taking a little longer than I expected but hopefully I get it done. it seems like this is the route to go. as there are no rattles and just clean and heavy bass.

NHfastandfree

NIce! when did you get started/how long are you expecting that box to take

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

My first time working with wood. I have all the tools.
You have to take your time, and can't rush anything.
measurements have to be spot on.

So while I'm messing up, its expected. I also just came back from vacation. I'm in no hurry to finish the box as the car isnt a daily driver. I'm taking my time and enjoying it along the way. It's also a great learning experience.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Also, in the first thread...I believe CSW used two 10inch Dub7s. (w7's)
Can you imagine how that sounds? omg pure secks.

eduardmc

iTrader: (1)

justnspace, if i remember correctly you had some SSA icon or xcon (not sure) if it was you how good do they sound. i believe that if i ever have to upgrade i'll go with a SSA xcon 12" in ported 2cu ported.

I read only awesome reviews about them, everyone seem more please than the FI and dc audio brands (which are also very good)

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I believe you're thinking of Eggyhustler.
he also helped you out in your specific thread.

I have no experience with SSA.

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

Here you go

http://www.supercrewsound.com/commer...Id=343&catId=4

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

ewww to generic boxes.

here are some specs.....

• Air Space = 1.20 cu ft per chamber (2.40 cu ft single chamber w/ single cutout)

what if your sub calls for more/less air?
I guess you're out of luck. and you'll have crappy sounding bass.


Boxes are dependent on subwoofers. Pick a sub, and then build the box catered towards the sub.

NHfastandfree

Ya thats why I wanted to build one myself. I've had those generic boxes before and they really sound shi**y. I was wondering what the best way to make a passthrough into the cabin from the box would be. Maybe just a cut out from the back of the box and extending that opening through into the armrest area. Obviously I would not leave a direct line from the back of the subwoofer to the outside air. Any ideas or comments?

NHfastandfree

I've never heard of those speakers before how are they compared to Jl's, Alpine's etc. ?

NHfastandfree

Haha damn if only i had the money

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Like I said, I'm a beginner as well. take a look at those links I provided.
Then use google for subwoofer calculators. you do need the subwoofer first, so if you havent bought one your first step would be selecting a sub. the calculators do all the mathematical equations for you. you need to provide the specs of the sub. after you have your design you can start building a box.
all measurements are dependent on the sub and your goals. what is it that you really want from the sub?
the threads that i linked provide a guide for you to get an idea. not to follow exactly.

Once again, if you do your homework you'll be confident in building a box. and trial and error.

they blow mainstream subs out of the water. x10.



LOL sorry for sounding rushed. I'm at work, secretly on azine, and the boss keeps popping her head in!

NHfastandfree

No worries haha and i really didn;t know those subs are that good I better purchase one of those then.

NHfastandfree

What about these two subs?

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraud...iew.shopscript

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/s...QL%252d10.html

chardness

iTrader: (2)

use re audio's ported box calculator to get the dimensions of the box you are about to build: http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

eduardmc

iTrader: (1)

get a tc sound lmr 12, ssa icon or xcon, fi bl to go loud and good SQ, or get a dc sound level 4.

nothing on the market including jl w7 can compete with them and each of those sub runs from $200-$400

Has for name brand street level prices i believe the best price and peformance ratio i have to give it to the type r. if you look around it can be had for $80 and they do sound decent in a custom 2 cube box. i got mine from graiglist for $35 including a cheap box which i didn't need.

I hate cars

Those subs will not compete with the W7 in both SQ and SPL. They may be able to out do it in one area but with the W7 you're paying the price for a great SQ sub that has a high output.

I hate cars

Bandpass ported through the armrest is the only way to go in my opinion. No bass in the trunk. No trunk rattles, no rear deck rattles, and no dynamat.

There was such a huge gain in SPL over the sealed box that I had to cut the gain on my amp by over 1/2. I can have these things up to where it's almost painful and you can barely tell they're moving. There's so much efficiency with this box.

SQ was greatly improved. I have people think I have 8s or 10s when I play rock and they reach low with authority on rap. Really the best of all worlds. I have them playing up to 90hz right now and they sound great doing it. Took a lot of load off of my midbass in the doors.

If I had it to do over again, I would do only one 12" in this box. I guarantee it would be as loud as two 12s in my old sealed box.

eduardmc

iTrader: (1)

The other way around you mean. The w7 cannot compete with any of those subs both in sq and spl. I cannot believe you are in jl hype. Is a good sub but way overated. I remember having my tc-9 from tc sound in a proper spec box and my friend with a w7 in the proper spec box both with the same amp at 1400rms. After my friend heard my sub he went straight to tc sound and order the tc-9. Sold his W7 without thinking it twice. At that time it was only $175 for a 12. If you want the best sq and spl you would not go with jl overpricing sub. They are not bad but no where near the quality non market brands.

Just like here in nyc you ask people what is the best sub out there amd one sub comes to mine KICKERS L7

I hate cars

Maybe you're the one on the JL bashing bandwagon. I've heard some of the TC subs and don't like them at all. IMO, JL is one of the few that combine good SPL with excellent SQ and low end extension.

You say they were both in the proper box but you don't mention what size and type of boxes they were in. For all I know you might be comparing one in a ported box to one in a sealed box. You don't say if the "proper" JL box was a factory designated proper box which tend to be too small.

I've listened to a lot of subs and if I felt I could get better sound and SPL out of a cheaper sub I would have sold the W6s years ago and made a few bucks. Enclosure is everything and I'm extremely happy with mine.

So far I haven't heard a cheaper sub that sounds as good and I've been running these things hard since '04 and they've been flawless.

eduardmc

iTrader: (1)

you only have to do a search and see what other people are saying. i have heard myself the w7 and i was not wow buy it, i actually like the sound of the w6 better, even though the w7 suppost to be the best of jl audio.

This subs will kill the w7 in pieces.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/i...tion/xcon.html

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=293-658

http://www.dcsoundlab.com/woofers.html

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraud...iew.shopscript

http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/prod...&Product_Id=22

http://reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_xxx


i can go on, from what you will gather they compare the jl w7 with the alpine type X must of the time, and the alpine type X is around $250. i will give you this that if i have to choose w7 or type X i think w7 would win in SQ.

JL is good, w7 sound good in a proper box but does not sound better than other sub outhere specially an RE XXX or TC sound LMR 12, Lets not talk about the SSA XCON with there 2000rms sub and SQ to be match from what i have read. JL W7 will not get you loud it was meant for SQ alone. It does have a good volume but well below other sub i mention. Like a dc audio Level 4 XL. Apart from from SPL all of them has the SQ to be beat.

That is why people spent $100 dollars on a single HDMI MONSTER CABLE, when they can just purchase one from monoprice from $5 and is equal or better quality.

I hate cars

I've heard all of those but one myself. There's a reason I've stuck with JL. Don't act like I'm one of those guys that jump on bandwagons. There's a reason I run JL subs with ID mids.

A couple of those subs will get louder than the W7 but none will sound as good while going loud. The only thing that's not opinion in here is the SPL. A W7 in the proper enclosue of course, will sound better than any mentioned. I've heard many IDMaxes and while they're a great sub, they just don't compare to the W7.

Like many people you seem to have something against JL because they're expensive. You get what you pay for. Of course there are subs that go louder at half the cost but again, it's the combo of SQ and SPL. Some people hate JL because it's what others are doing.

Maybe you've never heard one in the proper box before. Originally my W6s sounded like garbage and didn't get very loud. I had friends with bottom of the line Kickers that sounded better than mine. Then I did the bandpass setup and it's one of the best sounding subs I've ever heard.

It comes down to personal preference so I don't really pay attention to others. You have to listen to stuff yourself and give it a fair shot ie proper box and setup. I've found many opinions on the internet whether it's audio or performance stuff is biased and mostly opinion based.

eduardmc

iTrader: (1)

well in personal preference i have heard the W7 and was not in the same league has the others, i have heard the w7 in difference setup (ported and sealed, tuned different and small boxes to large cube boxes) i still would not spend $250 for it cause i have heard other less expensive sub sound MUCH better SQ and louder.

if you search online you'll see 90% of people agreeing that the w7 is alright but not the God you are making it to be (since they have listen to it and other subs aswell). I understand that to you is the best sub you ever tried, but my opinion is that anyone would be paying jl overprice sub which you can have a much better sub for half the price.

The only advice i can give is to go out and listen to a few subs and see which one you prefer.

I hate cars

That's the only way, listen to it and judge for yourself. I've heard W7s that sounded like crap but it can always be traced back to install/box.

I don't understand the defensiveness of you guys when someone likes JL. Where have I ever said the W7 was a God? It's expensive no doubt and I'm sure there are better subs out there but for what it offers I think it performs very well at it's price point.

I will never go along with the theory that you can get a better sub for half the price. You may get one that sounds better or one that goes louder but not one that does it all. And like I said, I've been pushing my W6s hard since '04 and they've performed flawlessly. I tried other subs in my other car and had a couple issues over time, none of which were related to over/under powering.

I have absolutely no loyalty to JL Audio. Way back in the old days I listened to a ton of subs and picked what I liked best. I had actually never heard of JL at the time. If I could've saved $400 I would have. To this day if I heard something that sounded better for half the price I would gladly dump the W6s and use the money to get the "better" subs for free.

About 90% of people agreeing that there are better subs for the money thing, it's the internet. People love to get on the bandwagons and there's a very real JL hate bandwagon. No big deal but it doens't take a whole lot to change people's minds. I believe you can get a sub that's 90% as good for half the money.

eduardmc

iTrader: (1)

just a question (no more jl w7 talk ) you mention bandpass on your set up. Any one you know that make custom banpass for our car. i cannot take the rattle of the trunk anymore, i have dynamat the $%^* out of it and still getting annoying rattle. i loved my eclipse with its open back and no trunk rattle.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

previously mentioned, that you would have to build yourself or go to a audio shop that specializes in building boxes.
there are two threads that give a guide on how to do it. you just have to come up with your own measurements depending on the sub used.

I hate cars

Sounds good.

Honestly, the sub's manufacturer is a good place to get the specs. Give them the size of the ski pass opening in the seat so they can get the port dimensions right and they should be able to come up with something good.

I did mine myself and I aboslutely suck with wood working. You can tell it's amateurish but it's functional and barely cost anything.

I'll never go back to anything else in the TL. Don't get me wrong, there are some interior rattles up front near the sun roof but nothing in the rear. Even with a test tone of 30hz, the roof is flexing like crazy but the trunk and interior are pretty much rattle free. If you're already dynamatted you're going to have 0 rattles.

eduardmc

iTrader: (1)

do you have any pics of your trunk with the band pass to see how much trunk space would take.

NHfastandfree

Ya that would be awesome if some pics were posted because sounds like the box i hate cars made is the one I want to make. How much MDF did you use? And what technique did you use to seal the box. I think I'll do one 10 or twelve inch subwoofer so as to not take up too mch space in the trunk. I want to still be able to access the spare tire.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure IHC's box looks similar as he took the design from the original.
And if you guys checked out the links that I provided, ya'll would have already seen this.




Original.




mini:

NHfastandfree

Thanks for the pics! That first box is pretty big hows the space for the trunk can you still access the spare?

Whats the cubic foot for the first box?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

NH, im trying to help you out...but you gotta do your own homework.everything you ask, is in that first thread.


read the thread, SILLY. OMG, its not that hard. LOL does any one ever read any more??????????????????




also, can you edit your post and delete the pictures? you dont have to quote the pictures at all for me to understand what you're talking about.

NHfastandfree

o ya and i know with the bandpass boxes the sq and spl are meet at an equal. But compared to a ported box how much of an increase did you notice with the bandpass in both sq and spl. I want to match the "loudness" of my two 12inch type r's in a ported box, for the tl.

NHfastandfree

sorry man im just in class and being lazy trying to listen to the teacher and do this at the same time. my apologies.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I dont have any experience with bandpass boxes. I'm still currently making one.
When I read CSW's thread, the box sold me. it sold IHC as well. And then Roger made one on a smaller scale.
from these 3 people, I realized that this is the "Miracle Box" so to speak.
Its super crazy efficient. what that means is, you'll use less power to match or even beat the current "loudness" of your 2 type-r's.