Hey guys how is going. well my stereo wasn't cutting it so I'm starting the install process today.
Here is the plan.

Sound deadening
dice ipod/aux adapter
video/ back up cam input to the nav screen
Image Dynamic xs65 comp for the front
Image Dynamic ctx 6 for the rears
JL audio 8"w3v2
JL audio xd 6/600 amp
cache coe 8
i simple is76 for ipod video
back up cam

factory locations for every thing and no loss of space in the trunk is the goal plan to be done by this Friday.

Will post pictures tonight when i get home (might be late)

 

Well? How's it going so far?

 

Update

Ok heres and Up date with pics have more so if there is some that that you wanted to see in particular i can post more.

Still left to complete
Front Speakers
Rear Speakers
Sub and enclosure
Some Sound Deadening

For the Pics

My Gear


My Fuel


After and Hour and a half I had the every thing out but pretty much the dash to apply sound damping


Sound Damping in


Back Up Cam IN


Nav to Tv Box In (it is mounted on the back of the support held in place with two zip ties)


in the Factory Amp location
Signal Converter/ Line Driver Taking the signal direct from the deck and boosting the out put voltage to about 4.5v. this unit can bump it up to 9 but i think that is a bit high


Crossovers mounted. and some of the wiring


Wiring is alway fun



The Amp is in and yes i have a bout 1/2 inch clearance from the trunk arm


the ipod video switch in the upper cubby. the ipod video cable will be also in here (might make some cool later but kinda need to get my car together before the fourth

I will post more pictures of the front speaker install and the sub enclosure as i do them I hope by friday night it will be complete. Questions and comment are always welcome, I have been doing stereo and alarm remote start stuff for 15 years, so i can definitely answer some questions

 

Didn't know too much about this Cache COE 8 LOC. Only found a few ebay/online shop entries on Google. Looks like this is a very handy & easy to use LOC.

I'm thinking about getting the RockFord 360.2 because it has 6 channels + the option to fine tune the system by adjusting the EQ on a computer via the Bluetooth connection.

But I'm also thinking about keeping the system simple with a good quailty LOC. Keeping the options open here.

Understood that there is a price difference between this device & the 360,

1) how's the built quality of this device?
2) Most importantly, signal quality? very clean?
3) I'm just wondering how well this device works compared to the 360. Any idea?

Thanks for taking the time to post & sharing your experience,
Cheers.

 

I work at a stereo shop and i got the cache piece for less than 100 bucks.
I have used a few of them with good results.
In my case i am using this more as a 6 channel line driver. I am taking the low 1ish volt out put from the stock deck and bummping it up to 4.5 ish but the coe8 can out put 9 volts. The Cache Coe8 is pretty much a copy of an Audio Control LC8.

I had my day off yesterday and was able to get alot done. plans for today get the fronts and rears hooked up and playing and finish the sound deadening.

At this time i am still trying to figure out the enclosure for the 8" JL sub. Debating if i can do a wood box or if i will need to go fyberglass(hope not make my car smell)

 

all that sound deadening adds to much weight to the car. Not that i dont have it myself but i guess there is always a negative side to everything . good luck with the install.

 

i think i am only adding about 60-70 lbs of sound deadening. Worth it IMO for a quieter ride and more audio headroom volume

 

Nice progress so far!

 

tonight i was able to get the front four speaker wired up and playing.

the COE8 is not a line driver as i though and i dont need it at all. i could have run the out put from the head unit direct to the amp how ever i am going to try and find a 6 channel line driver with a eq so maybe a 360.2 or some thing in the future if i sm not pleased with the sound

 

Interesting. I assume the ID amps you have have an input plug for you to connect the stock HU signal wires to it. Curious to see if you will plan to get the 360.2 to improve SQ, if needed.

Keep us posted. Thanks for the info. Helps me to form a big picture of what I'm gonna do with my sound system.

Cheers.

 

nice work so far. i'm actually in the middle of my own install as well. i'll be posting the whole deal soon enough so people can pull ideas from what i've done and critique. i'm going to steal your idea for the video switch, never thought about putting it there :-). keep up the good work and keep those pics coming.

 

Update:

coe8 is working as planned i had a summing switch on the amp turned on.... opps
the video switchs is in a great location easy to use and out of sight.

it has been a while and the mid bass is incredible.. LOVE IT.

I have not had time to finish my sub inclosure so still no word on the sub.
the sound deading helped quite it down a bit more in the car, probably improved sound but did it all at the same time.

the is76 I simple video ipod adapter has some noise trying to figure that out still should have run a common ground wire when every thing was apart. will run one when the rear comes apart to finish the sub enclosure. and some lines on the screen from some thing on the back up cam, not horrible but it shouldn't be there.

need to finish the tweeter covers... still just no time... changing jobs and got two kids...

 

those are ID cross overs i have just the one jl amp. xd600/6 sounds great and no over heating issues. however i am not running the sub at all yet, no enclosure yet..

 

Build quality is great. seems to be a copy of the audio control lc8
No Nosie from the coe8 at all in my istall or any other install that i have done
the 360 is a processor the coe8 is more of a signal summing and line driver with an aux in no sound processing capabilities. I have an rta machine at work will try and play around with it today a bit to see if i can get a good read out for you guys to see how this setup responds

 

Don't know why I didn't receive an email when you replied. Was reading this post:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/sound-system-advice-part-ii-808804/

and clicked on the link you posted and learned that, hey, you replied to my posts!

Didn't mean to ignore your replies. Thanks for all the info Carologist!

 

No worries. It took some time to finish the trunk the way I was happy with.

 

Is the system finished? Can we see updated pics?

 

The Audio Side of the system is finish. I am currently working on an Ipod Dock in the factory tape slot and possibly a holder for an ipod to control the video feed to the screen. Every thing looks factory except the sup box. Pictures below....






Just waiting for a nice day to finish the Trunk linner

 

Im not sure what im looking at? I see the piece coming down but....im not still not sure lol

 

that is the box the sub is facing up though the factory sub location. The enclosure is below and drops down behind the rear seat to get it the volume needed. I have only lost about 3 inches the the forward most part of the trunk and it increases closer to the rear deck. It is hard to see it in the picture. It was design a stealth install and if you didn't know any better you wouldn't know.

 

Nice job on the install. Is the box for the sub two sections? It looks like it splits in the middle.

Also, where you mounted your amp, do you think a McIntosh MC431 would fit in that location?

 

Any details on this box? Exact measurements, cubic ft, how many subs etc? Im interested in what you did.

 

The box is a wood fyberglass inclouser. One 10" jl w3 v2 sub with about 200watts goign to it. the box space is about 5 to 10% larger than the reccomended sealed enclosure.

The box parralles the rear deck tray and then follows the back seat to the floor (3/4" mdf) comes out from the seat about 3" or so. The sides are mdf as weel and the face that you can see in the pictures is wood and fyber glass. The box is mounted to the x bracing where the rear seat is and through the deck tray. I will have to draw a picture and then post that, this is a box that is better seen than described. FYI this box does require heavy modification of the rear deack tray to fit....

 

I am interested in replacing my factory amp with something like the XD600/6 myself. Is there anyway you could post a wiring diagram of this install. I am curious how you ran the center channel and sub signals to the 6 channel amp. I assume channel 1 is FR + FL, channel 2 is RR + RL, and channel 3 is Center and Sub? If this is the case then how are you able to adjust frequencies on the sub and center independently of each other. I may be missing something completely and hope that i am

Thanks!

 

Thanks for the info. I would defiantly like to see a picture or schematic of some sorts.

 

Channel 1 = FL
Channel 2 = FR
Ch 3 = RL
CH 4 = RR
CH 5 = Center
Ch 6 = Sub

Most people leave the center channel powered from the stock amp, most audio installs wont utilize the full potential of a center channel unless you do what CarologistFB has done or will be listening/viewing DVD's.

This can help you:
http://www.the12volt.com/Default.asp?

 

I do have the xd 600/6 but I have channels 5 and 6 bridged for the sub and no center. I believe it is running at about 70 watts x 4 and 250ish x 1 . I was thinking of running it as a three channel amp but those speakers are quite efficient and defiantly don't need to.

 

So about the crude Drawing and its way it has found its way to the web......

But this might shed a bit more light on how this fits in the car.....





I hope this helps sorry i don't have better dimensions. I don't have my original plans any more. but every sub would need some thing different and i do remember alot of it was fit then trim. I hope that helps....

 

Thanks !

 

This is IMPRESSIVE man! This is exactly what I want to achieve. Having everything installed with a stock LOOK!

I have more to think about now damn it! My biggest problem is to fit the old school Orion HCCA 12" DVC into the truck w/o sacrificing trunk space + spare tire, and, be able to use the plastic trunk liner like the way you do...

Back to the drawing board for me. Thanks for da inspiration!!

 

How in the world did you get the 600/6 to go in that location? I am in the middle of an install and can't figure out a way to get it to stay in that spot....

HELP!

 

I hope everything works out ok (carologist). Cutting the rear deck in that area is not a good thing on a unibody car. You've got the weight of the car on the shocks nearby and almost nothing in the middle to take the lateral stresses. Think about it as removing the front strut bar but worse. It doesn't seem that bad since it's not an actual "frame". I'm curious if you can feel a difference.

 

I thought about the same thing too indeed. Do you feel any difference in terms of handling Carologist?

 

The 600/6 is behind the left panel in the trunk. You might be thinking of the factory amp location , that is where i have my cache loc8. it is much thiner than the 600/6. I hope that helps.


None, however i don't drive very spirited. I have other toys for that. Look at this way. if i removed the sub enclosure i would stiffing that area again, but the box has been secured to the cross bracing and the rear deck tray itself, acting as part of the car. This though did cross my mind but i have not noted any ill effects.

 

[QUOTE=carologist;12743176]The 600/6 is behind the left panel in the trunk. You might be thinking of the factory amp location , that is where i have my cache loc8. it is much thiner than the 600/6. I hope that helps.



I am actually trying to mount the amp in same spot in the trunk that you are...i just don't see a clear angle to mount it properly is all. Where exactly did you screw the amp into. I guess if you could snap a few shots up close of the amp in that location would help me out TREMENDOUSLY!

Thanks in advance,
Blak.

 

I am at work right now but i will look threw the pics that i have and see what i can find to post for you..... I did use a heavy dudy back strap to make stand offs to mount the amp to/ with. The amp it vertical and clears the trunk arm less than an Inch.... If you have a larger amp the right side of the trunk might have more usable room to work with as the fuel filler is not there.

 

Ok these are the only pics that i have for the Mounted Amp. I hope that this will help you. If you have any questions i we try and help the best i can.


I used three pieces of back strap(heaver dudy) to mount the amp and then just one screw.


Another angle you can see one of the straps well in this pic

This is showing the clearance between the trunk arm and tha mounted amp it is about 3/8" I was shooting for about 1/2"





I hope this helps...

 

interesting mounting location.... i like it.

 

^ I wish I could have hidden my amps that way (Maybe I can), instead, mine is like this:

 

there are issues that might arise from amps mounted in confined spaces. The Amp I am running is completely tunned to not over drive any speaker in the car and is runniong a total of . and i haven't had any over heating issues threw one summer so far. there is limited space behind the panels so larger amps might not fit to well. about 430 watts. 60x4 and 250ish for the sub. But Looking at your install, I would probably just make a false wall to hid/protect your amps and such. But to each there own. Nice Setup BTW Simple and easy.