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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 09:13 AM
  #1  
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broken 😪

Hey guys i hope everyone is doing well ! I have a 03 Honda Accord (originally Automatic) which i have swapped with a 05 TL engine and Manual transmission (with same TL ECU AS WELL). When i first swapped the car i noticed that my stick wouldnt go past the 5-6 gear position into the R. At first i even tried to force it to put it onto reverse !!!!! 😪 after a little while that same day i noticed that i can actually put the car on reverse by turning it off-putting it on reverse-then turning it back on and it would all be great and dandy but the problem was still there. Then after a few days or so, i noticed that i can also go into that Reverse position while im not pressing down on the clutch 🤯 surprisingly !!!!!! I started thinking on howwww i can temporarily fix this to make it easier for me to shift into reverse without having to clutch in and out so much and sometimes even getting confused with gears while under pressure. At this point (almost 1 year later after the swap) i came to the conclusion that my reverse solenoid lockout is interfering with my clutch starter killswitch (the yellow switch on the clutch pedal). What i ended up doing was, taking the actual clutch pedal switch, unplugging it, and connecting it into a switch i have to push in and out everytime im about to go into reverse and that i can also push IN while im at highway speeds so i dont accidentally put the car on R instead of 6th gear. I AM SOOOOOO LOST HERE !!!! Yesterday i tried looking for ECU Pinouts for the R Lockout Solenoid and the clutch starter killswitch to see if theres something wired wrong on my end. I also tried switching the polarity on the Reverse Lockout Solenoid (on the actual transmission) with no luck. Can someone please advice on this????
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 12:14 PM
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Take it to a shop to get fixed?
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 12:15 PM
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You're in NY, Can you take it to Paul in New Jersey? He's good with those things.
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by gatrhumpy
Take it to a shop to get fixed?
i can easily do that, but im trying to learn what the issue is and how to fix it .
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by gatrhumpy
You're in NY, Can you take it to Paul in New Jersey? He's good with those things.
let me see if i can get some advice from the users on here, if no success, ill take it to where you recommended. Thank you soooooo much !!!!!
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 07:17 AM
  #6  
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From: New Friggin Jerzy
Originally Posted by gatrhumpy
You're in NY, Can you take it to Paul in New Jersey? He's good with those things.
Paul probably won't want it. Too much BS involved.
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
Paul probably won't want it. Too much BS involved.
I thought we had rules on the forums. I dont care how much BS is involved, if you dont have any positive comments to say, just stay off the post.
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 07:38 AM
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kids, play nice now.

Uc1, when posting an obscure question on the internet, you've got to have your big boy pants on. There ARE going to be people who post bullshit. Ignore them.
you may or may never get an answer, because this is something very obscure.
not your normal question.


now, if you really wanted to learn, pull up the schematics, even try to post the schematics here....so that we can help
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 07:55 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by justnspace
kids, play nice now.

Uc1, when posting an obscure question on the internet, you've got to have your big boy pants on. There ARE going to be people who post bullshit. Ignore them.
you may or may never get an answer, because this is something very obscure.
not your normal question.


now, if you really wanted to learn, pull up the schematics, even try to post the schematics here....so that we can help
So what you're saying is thay if i go to someones post and comment "too much bullshit" its okay from my part? Just because im a new member doesnt mean that i get treated with less respect. So if anyone doesnt have anything positive to say under my post, they can certainly save their time, im not here for that.

schematics? 🤔 pretty loat at that one.
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 07:56 AM
  #10  
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From: New York
Originally Posted by justnspace
kids, play nice now.

Uc1, when posting an obscure question on the internet, you've got to have your big boy pants on. There ARE going to be people who post bullshit. Ignore them.
you may or may never get an answer, because this is something very obscure.
not your normal question.


now, if you really wanted to learn, pull up the schematics, even try to post the schematics here....so that we can help
pretty lost***
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 08:31 AM
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DMZ called BS because car is heavily modified. Not many mechanics will want to work on it, and if they do they might charge extra. Why? Because now you need to double check all service data that you have. Parts involved might be from mixed models. Schematics, wire colors, where connectors are located, etc. - all that info might be wrong now.
I personally hate working on modified cars. Sometimes, diagnosing simple no start with aftermarket remote starter makes job that much harder. I don't mind modifying my car, because I did all the work, so I know what goes where and why.

Start by getting service manual for '05. I'm assuming all parts involved are from '05 TL, correct?
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g.../#post15344256

I'm assuming lockout solenoid is normally open type, meaning if you would to disconnect it, you could go to reverse any time, right?

If that is the case, it explains why you can go to reverse with key off. It gets powered through ignition switch, and controlled with ground by ECM. Is ECM grounding it all the time?

Which switch did you disconnect? Position or interlock?


Do you have bi-directional scan tool? Can you find on live data solenoid and switch positions that car reads?
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 08:45 AM
  #12  
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From: New York
Originally Posted by peter6
DMZ called BS because car is heavily modified. Not many mechanics will want to work on it, and if they do they might charge extra. Why? Because now you need to double check all service data that you have. Parts involved might be from mixed models. Schematics, wire colors, where connectors are located, etc. - all that info might be wrong now.
I personally hate working on modified cars. Sometimes, diagnosing simple no start with aftermarket remote starter makes job that much harder. I don't mind modifying my car, because I did all the work, so I know what goes where and why.

Start by getting service manual for '05. I'm assuming all parts involved are from '05 TL, correct?
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g.../#post15344256

I'm assuming lockout solenoid is normally open type, meaning if you would to disconnect it, you could go to reverse any time, right?

If that is the case, it explains why you can go to reverse with key off. It gets powered through ignition switch, and controlled with ground by ECM. Is ECM grounding it all the time?

Which switch did you disconnect? Position or interlock?


Do you have bi-directional scan tool? Can you find on live data solenoid and switch positions that car reads?
hey im sooo sorry im at work and cant read this entire text, but dont mind me saying that sir, you are the man ! THANK YOU !!!!
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Uc1PurpleBag
So what you're saying is thay if i go to someones post and comment "too much bullshit" its okay from my part? Just because im a new member doesnt mean that i get treated with less respect. So if anyone doesnt have anything positive to say under my post, they can certainly save their time, im not here for that.

schematics? 🤔 pretty loat at that one.
that's not what i said at all.

Peter helped with the schematics.
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 07:28 PM
  #14  
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From: New Friggin Jerzy
Originally Posted by Uc1PurpleBag
I thought we had rules on the forums. I dont care how much BS is involved, if you dont have any positive comments to say, just stay off the post.
I was being realistic because I know Paul very well and probably better than anyone else on acurazine. I wasn't being negative.
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