Bluetooth Fails
10-27-2014, 09:08 AM
#721
Baking
Hi,
I've posted much earlier that we can replace the cap.
We have had several boards come in and the cap was fine.
The problem is the type of chips used is a ball solder type chip, where
the chip rests on balls of solder. With age and flexing, this type of
joint is bound to fail.
We do oven reflows (first removing the plastic connector) with
oven reflow flux (or acid to clean solder joints). This is a critical step.
I would not do this step in a regular oven that will be used for food later.
We also use a specific temperature profile for solder reflows.
Several weak spots are also reinforced with more solder.
If you would like to give it a shot, you can send to :
Godin Technologies
795 Commerce Dr Ste 3
Venice FL 34292
Price is $45 flat rate.
Regards
Joel
941-773-3848
I've posted much earlier that we can replace the cap.
We have had several boards come in and the cap was fine.
The problem is the type of chips used is a ball solder type chip, where
the chip rests on balls of solder. With age and flexing, this type of
joint is bound to fail.
We do oven reflows (first removing the plastic connector) with
oven reflow flux (or acid to clean solder joints). This is a critical step.
I would not do this step in a regular oven that will be used for food later.
We also use a specific temperature profile for solder reflows.
Several weak spots are also reinforced with more solder.
If you would like to give it a shot, you can send to :
Godin Technologies
795 Commerce Dr Ste 3
Venice FL 34292
Price is $45 flat rate.
Regards
Joel
941-773-3848
10-30-2014, 09:56 AM
#722
Three Wheelin'
So I've pretty much read the whole thread since my 06 TL's (at 95K miles) bluetooth decides to not see my phone. Can anyone confirm what the part number is for a 06TL with parchment interior? I'd rather replace it myself and not take it to the stealers since it seems rather easy. Thanks guys.
10-30-2014, 10:32 AM
#723
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It's best to go to oemacuraparts.com and/or acuraoemparts.com and search for "telephone assy, hands free"-- it'll pull up all the HFL and bezel options along with the current part numbers.
Last edited by Will Y.; 10-30-2014 at 10:34 AM.
10-31-2014, 10:58 PM
#724
2004 Acura TL
Welp I had a good 2 year run with my HFL working properly. Tonight my HFL kept losing and pairing with my phone. I'm going to try the baking method tomorrow to see what good it will do me.
11-11-2014, 04:52 PM
#725
The HFL on my '07 TL-S finally crapped out. Before it finally died I had been having ongoing problems for a while with the voice commands as well as people complaining about me having a noisy connection, even when I was parked and away from the road. Could the HFL going bad have done that as well, or do I need to get a new microphone too?
11-11-2014, 10:28 PM
#726
i did this and it worked for about a week for me, ive since given up on it an just left it unplugged.
12-10-2014, 05:57 PM
#730
I got the wrong hfl and lost the plastic wrapping so I can't return it it's for a 05 tl I'm selling it for cheap someone buy it so I can buy the 07 because they are different darn it 
12-26-2014, 02:36 PM
#734
Good news! I was able to repair my Acura Bluetooth module. As you may recall it suddenly quit pairing with any phone but passed the onboard diagnostics. It now works fine.
Since Acura, the dealership and the manufacturer of the Bluetooth module all declined to swap out my failed unit to perform a root cause failure analysis, I decided to have a look at this infamous module.
It is located in the roof console and takes just a few minutes to remove the bezel where the module is mounted. On the bench, the cover protecting the ciurcuit boards was removed with three torx fasteners and the processor board piggy-backed on the main board was unplugged and set aside on a static control mat. The processor board is not serviceable without specialized test equipment.
So looking at the main board, a switching power supply was obvious. The capacitors used in a switch power supply must have a low ESR (equivalent series resistance) to permit the supplly to start up and operate. Capacitors used in this function must be quality parts with a high temperature rating and appropriate safe voltage rating.
The large capacitor adjacent to the switching inductor exhibited a terrible ESR and for all practical purposes had an open circuit.
This is a surface mounted device and once removed I replaced it with a conventional thru-hole leaded capacitor. I chose a 25 volt 220 uF 105 degree C component. Just for S&Gs, I reassembled the console and the Bluetooth system in the car once again works as well as it did when purchased new.
Costs?
30 minutes to remove and replace the console
30 minutes on the bench to test and replace the bad capacitor
$2.15 for the capacitor
Observations:
The dealership's labor estimate of 30 minutes to an hour is fairly typical. The parts markup is by the dealer and or the manufactureer is where the greed comes in. This is NOT a $650.00 part.
Johnson Control's attitude is very defensive - I am sure that they would not compromise their lucrative contract with Acura to produce these modules. They have no real retail face to the consumer.
Acura's attitude is surprising to me in that they do not care that these modules are failing. That is just my reaction to what I once imagined was an exceptional car company.
Recommendation: If your Bluetooth module is not working and you are out of warranty / goodwill assistance getting it fixed by Acura, take it out and let an electronics technician have a look. You might just be able to repeat my experience.
Good luck!
Since Acura, the dealership and the manufacturer of the Bluetooth module all declined to swap out my failed unit to perform a root cause failure analysis, I decided to have a look at this infamous module.
It is located in the roof console and takes just a few minutes to remove the bezel where the module is mounted. On the bench, the cover protecting the ciurcuit boards was removed with three torx fasteners and the processor board piggy-backed on the main board was unplugged and set aside on a static control mat. The processor board is not serviceable without specialized test equipment.
So looking at the main board, a switching power supply was obvious. The capacitors used in a switch power supply must have a low ESR (equivalent series resistance) to permit the supplly to start up and operate. Capacitors used in this function must be quality parts with a high temperature rating and appropriate safe voltage rating.
The large capacitor adjacent to the switching inductor exhibited a terrible ESR and for all practical purposes had an open circuit.
This is a surface mounted device and once removed I replaced it with a conventional thru-hole leaded capacitor. I chose a 25 volt 220 uF 105 degree C component. Just for S&Gs, I reassembled the console and the Bluetooth system in the car once again works as well as it did when purchased new.
Costs?
30 minutes to remove and replace the console
30 minutes on the bench to test and replace the bad capacitor
$2.15 for the capacitor
Observations:
The dealership's labor estimate of 30 minutes to an hour is fairly typical. The parts markup is by the dealer and or the manufactureer is where the greed comes in. This is NOT a $650.00 part.
Johnson Control's attitude is very defensive - I am sure that they would not compromise their lucrative contract with Acura to produce these modules. They have no real retail face to the consumer.
Acura's attitude is surprising to me in that they do not care that these modules are failing. That is just my reaction to what I once imagined was an exceptional car company.
Recommendation: If your Bluetooth module is not working and you are out of warranty / goodwill assistance getting it fixed by Acura, take it out and let an electronics technician have a look. You might just be able to repeat my experience.
Good luck!
Removed the hfl board looks fine but want to fix it so it stops draining my battery.
12-27-2014, 10:29 AM
#735
I have "baked" my board and have my HFL back! I can't believe I've been without it for 3 years and this is all it took to revive it. Thanks to all who posted. I actually ended up here trying to resolve my battery drain. Not only is that resolved, I get my HFL back as a bonus. If it helps some to make sure they are doing it right, I put a small piece of solder (which I had) on the sheet of aluminum to see if it would melt and convince myself (I'm an engineer) that this wasn't just "sorcery". And sure enough, after 7-8 minutes, it had melted.
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mazen222 (03-11-2015)
01-05-2015, 08:13 PM
#737
Does anybody knows what's the next step on my TL 2007?
The battery still draining out completely, I already disconnect the Hands Free Link (Bluetooth), checked the battery (OPTIMA Yellow cap), alternator checked, and all the results shows PASSED.
The Booting Up message on the display still showing up, after I disconnect the HFL.
This is turning me crazy, I was so happy ridding in my TL!!!
I been dealing with this problem for 2 months already, but in the las 2 weeks I have to jumped charge every day. HELP PLEASE!!!!
The battery still draining out completely, I already disconnect the Hands Free Link (Bluetooth), checked the battery (OPTIMA Yellow cap), alternator checked, and all the results shows PASSED.
The Booting Up message on the display still showing up, after I disconnect the HFL.
This is turning me crazy, I was so happy ridding in my TL!!!
I been dealing with this problem for 2 months already, but in the las 2 weeks I have to jumped charge every day. HELP PLEASE!!!!
01-05-2015, 10:28 PM
#738
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If corroded on the surface, clean and reattach to the battery. If corroded under the sheathing (usually the positive cable), replace and attach securely to the battery.
2) When you say the battery was "tested," was it with a load test? If not, replace the Optima and start from there. Batteries often die due to one bad cell, and some other AZ members have not had good experiences with Optimas.
I'd expect a dash light to illuminate if the alternator was going bad.
01-06-2015, 06:59 PM
#739
Battery ends are good, the battery was charged for 45 minutes, because it was dead at the time I took it to the test, after that they said the battery was good and passed it, they recommend me to take the car so they can check the alternator, so I did it, and same results, PASSED!!!
the only info message that I got on my dash it's the "BOOTING UP" for a while already, I disconnect the Bluetooth and got it with me now to find out that it is discontinued, so now I need to find out what kind of module will be the one that I need to get.
any idea?
the only info message that I got on my dash it's the "BOOTING UP" for a while already, I disconnect the Bluetooth and got it with me now to find out that it is discontinued, so now I need to find out what kind of module will be the one that I need to get.
any idea?
01-06-2015, 07:10 PM
#740
Drifting
Battery ends are good, the battery was charged for 45 minutes, because it was dead at the time I took it to the test, after that they said the battery was good and passed it, they recommend me to take the car so they can check the alternator, so I did it, and same results, PASSED!!!
the only info message that I got on my dash it's the "BOOTING UP" for a while already, I disconnect the Bluetooth and got it with me now to find out that it is discontinued, so now I need to find out what kind of module will be the one that I need to get.
any idea?
the only info message that I got on my dash it's the "BOOTING UP" for a while already, I disconnect the Bluetooth and got it with me now to find out that it is discontinued, so now I need to find out what kind of module will be the one that I need to get.
any idea?
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ososigma (01-06-2015)
01-09-2015, 11:11 AM
#741
It's normal to have the "Booting up" message with the HFL removed. If you want to see if you might have another drain on your battery, you could disconnect the negative terminal on your battery and put a multimeter between the clamp and battery terminal to measure the current with the key off. Use the 10A setting on the multimeter. Also, you need to wait up to 10 minutes for the current to stabilize, as some of the gadgets in our TL take some time to reset after reconnecting the battery. In my case, it starts out at around 0.6 amp, drops within a minute to 0.24A, and then to .043A after 7-8 minutes. Something less than .05A or 50 mA is normal. Anything significantly more, and you'll need to pull out fuses one by one to find where the drain comes from.
01-11-2015, 02:02 PM
#743
I finally fixed mine! (I just hope it stays fixed!) Ok, after some thorough troubleshooting, and lots of reading on this thread, I decided to bake my handsfree bluetooth link in the damn oven!! I know, it may sound crazy, but it worked!
Here is how I came to my wacky conclusion: After reading and reading, dang near everyones hfl at one point or another stopped working, wheather it be altogether dead, on, but not responding, or, like mine, on, responding, but not pairing. This was my 3rd go at it, and I'm stubborn, so I really wanted to figure out if there was ANY way to fix it instead of paying for a new one when CLEARLY Acura should be footing the bill for this obvious design flaw of this SAFETY feature. I took the hf assy out of the bezel, let it hang down and gently pushed, pulled, held, bent, twisted, turned, & tilted it, all the while trying to pair my droid 4 (and my gf's BB). My steering wheel controls would sometimes stop responding altogether during this process. I connected and disconected the green connector, pulled apart the 2 circuit boards (numerous times), which sometimes got me back the steering wheel control buttons, but NEVER successfully paired either phone. THEN, I discovered that when I put pressure on the capacitor on the larger circuit board, (this is the 'infamous' cap that many have replaced) the hfl 'woke up' and made this wierd scratchy noise. (still didn't work, but it reacted when I held slight pressure on it sideways) I thought I had it there, but still couldn't get it to work. Then I moved one spot over to the coil? power supply? next to it. Again, when I held slight pressure on it, the hfl reacted, still not working, but really got me thinking about another post that I read about on here about solder joints. I thought to myself, "self, this could definitely be the problem!" So, I remembered reading (to many posts on this thread, I can't find it again now!) that some folks had luck repairing all types of electronics by baking (or heating with a heat gun) the circuit board(s). This seemed to make sense in this case, as you would not be able to see a tiny, hairline, intermittant bad solder joint on these boards, and when I held pressure on certain components, I had varying results. So, I figured what the heck do I have to lose, it doesn't work now. I like the oven idea much better than the heat gun because the oven would provide even heating as opposed to the directional heating of the gun. I put aluminum foil on a cookie sheet, made little foil 'balls' to raise the boards up off the sheet for even heating and placed the 2 in the preheated 385 degree oven for 9 minutes. I don't know why, but I placed another piece of foil, like a cover over the 2 boards, (not touching the boards) but I didn't want the heat going directly on them, just evenly around them. The idea that the solder would melt and 'reconnect', repairing any potentially bad solder joints seemed to just make sense, and what do you know, IT WORKED! I plugged it back in and it went to the setup menu, then to the phone setup menu, and bam, paired up immediately! She's still hanging there but I talked on it for about 2 hours, 1 hour on my way to work and other hour on the way home. This MIGHT actually explain why some people had good results replacing the cap and some didn't. The cap may not have not necessarily been the cause, it may have been the cap's solder joint or a faulty solder joint of another component.
I really hope some of you have some luck baking your bluetooth! Make some brownies while you're at it! I will try to keep checking in to answer any questions and see if anyone else has any luck with this.
Here is how I came to my wacky conclusion: After reading and reading, dang near everyones hfl at one point or another stopped working, wheather it be altogether dead, on, but not responding, or, like mine, on, responding, but not pairing. This was my 3rd go at it, and I'm stubborn, so I really wanted to figure out if there was ANY way to fix it instead of paying for a new one when CLEARLY Acura should be footing the bill for this obvious design flaw of this SAFETY feature. I took the hf assy out of the bezel, let it hang down and gently pushed, pulled, held, bent, twisted, turned, & tilted it, all the while trying to pair my droid 4 (and my gf's BB). My steering wheel controls would sometimes stop responding altogether during this process. I connected and disconected the green connector, pulled apart the 2 circuit boards (numerous times), which sometimes got me back the steering wheel control buttons, but NEVER successfully paired either phone. THEN, I discovered that when I put pressure on the capacitor on the larger circuit board, (this is the 'infamous' cap that many have replaced) the hfl 'woke up' and made this wierd scratchy noise. (still didn't work, but it reacted when I held slight pressure on it sideways) I thought I had it there, but still couldn't get it to work. Then I moved one spot over to the coil? power supply? next to it. Again, when I held slight pressure on it, the hfl reacted, still not working, but really got me thinking about another post that I read about on here about solder joints. I thought to myself, "self, this could definitely be the problem!" So, I remembered reading (to many posts on this thread, I can't find it again now!) that some folks had luck repairing all types of electronics by baking (or heating with a heat gun) the circuit board(s). This seemed to make sense in this case, as you would not be able to see a tiny, hairline, intermittant bad solder joint on these boards, and when I held pressure on certain components, I had varying results. So, I figured what the heck do I have to lose, it doesn't work now. I like the oven idea much better than the heat gun because the oven would provide even heating as opposed to the directional heating of the gun. I put aluminum foil on a cookie sheet, made little foil 'balls' to raise the boards up off the sheet for even heating and placed the 2 in the preheated 385 degree oven for 9 minutes. I don't know why, but I placed another piece of foil, like a cover over the 2 boards, (not touching the boards) but I didn't want the heat going directly on them, just evenly around them. The idea that the solder would melt and 'reconnect', repairing any potentially bad solder joints seemed to just make sense, and what do you know, IT WORKED! I plugged it back in and it went to the setup menu, then to the phone setup menu, and bam, paired up immediately! She's still hanging there but I talked on it for about 2 hours, 1 hour on my way to work and other hour on the way home. This MIGHT actually explain why some people had good results replacing the cap and some didn't. The cap may not have not necessarily been the cause, it may have been the cap's solder joint or a faulty solder joint of another component.
I really hope some of you have some luck baking your bluetooth! Make some brownies while you're at it! I will try to keep checking in to answer any questions and see if anyone else has any luck with this.
The process presents by TT5TL worked for me. Although I had replaced the capacitor suspect: does not work for me, but this method of baking the boards works.I'll update in a few days to see if the repair lasts. Acura should replace it for free or for a lower price.
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mazen222 (03-11-2015)
01-18-2015, 06:52 PM
#744
2nd Gear
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I had a failed HFL on my 08 RDX as well!!
My father in law had his 07 MDX totaled so I used the blue-tooth module from that 07 MDX on my 08 RDX and it worked just fine. They both has different part numbers and differenet outer plastic casing but the board inside is exactly the same. The only thing I am missing is the phone icon that display on the dash when the phone is paired. I can totally live without it especially the price of the RDX blue-tooth module is more expensive than the MDX blue-tooth module!!
Also from my google search I read a success story using an American HFL module in canadian Vehicle. I think they just change the part numbers and the outer casing and use the same module.
I hope this is helpful to someone out there!!
I hope this helps someone
My father in law had his 07 MDX totaled so I used the blue-tooth module from that 07 MDX on my 08 RDX and it worked just fine. They both has different part numbers and differenet outer plastic casing but the board inside is exactly the same. The only thing I am missing is the phone icon that display on the dash when the phone is paired. I can totally live without it especially the price of the RDX blue-tooth module is more expensive than the MDX blue-tooth module!!
Also from my google search I read a success story using an American HFL module in canadian Vehicle. I think they just change the part numbers and the outer casing and use the same module.
I hope this is helpful to someone out there!!
I hope this helps someone
01-26-2015, 09:22 PM
#745
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2011
Age: 67
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2006 RL HFL module replacement
Mine just quit working last week. Dealer says $1200. Used one on ebay for $500.
Can I replace with TL version or another model or year? I've also contemplated trying to get a computer shop to inspect my board and see if they can re-solder any detached part.
Thoughts? Advice?
Please help!
Can I replace with TL version or another model or year? I've also contemplated trying to get a computer shop to inspect my board and see if they can re-solder any detached part.
Thoughts? Advice?
Please help!
01-27-2015, 01:03 AM
#746
Registered but harmless
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The part numbers are different from the HFLs for the TL, but I don't know if that is due to the HFL module, the bezels/surrounds or both.
Three different approaches:
1. Replace with an OEM RL HFL unit-- dealers on-line are charging $830 - $920 for the new part,
2. Install an aftermarket Bluetooth unit for about $150, or
3. Get a TL unit, remove the HFL module and compare it to your RL module; install the TL module if they are the same.
Three different approaches:
1. Replace with an OEM RL HFL unit-- dealers on-line are charging $830 - $920 for the new part,
2. Install an aftermarket Bluetooth unit for about $150, or
3. Get a TL unit, remove the HFL module and compare it to your RL module; install the TL module if they are the same.
02-19-2015, 09:06 PM
#747
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Hi All, I had no idea Honda Bluetooth modules were that unreliable and problematic. Although I do not own an Acura, have 2013 Honda Accord with the exact same Bluetooth failure. The Bluetooth module (39770-T2A-A815-M1) on 13 Accord is also made by Johnson Controls. I thought Bluetooth modules were highly reliable and trouble free. My Honda dealership wants $219 for the new module since I have logged more than 56K miles in just over two years of ownership. Two year longevity for Bluetooth module is not very good and not acceptable in my book. I bought a used on from eBay for $55 and it works fine for now but not sure how long it will last. I feel your pain and disappointment regarding the Honda Bluetooth performance.
02-27-2015, 10:42 AM
#748
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jan 2011
Age: 67
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Bluetooth Fails
My 2005 TL hands free link went out 3 weeks ago. I've had it since new, so it lasted longer than most, I guess. Ordered a new HFL from Ebay (through an Acura dealer in Tempe, AZ) for $200.00 and swapped it my self. Unplug a few plugs, 4 screws and it took 20 minutes.
03-02-2015, 10:53 AM
#749
FYI - be very careful when baking the HFL. I work in a kitchen. I decided to do it while at work. I was multi tasking at work and the tray slipped our of my hands. The circuit board slip and a bunch of the electronics fell off the board. So it's complete junk now. Not a big deal because it wasn't working anyway.
Does anyone have a spare board that hasn't been baked they'd be interested in sending me?
Thanks
George
Does anyone have a spare board that hasn't been baked they'd be interested in sending me?
Thanks
George
03-23-2015, 07:50 AM
#750
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main board
Good news! I was able to repair my Acura Bluetooth module. As you may recall it suddenly quit pairing with any phone but passed the onboard diagnostics. It now works fine.
Since Acura, the dealership and the manufacturer of the Bluetooth module all declined to swap out my failed unit to perform a root cause failure analysis, I decided to have a look at this infamous module.
It is located in the roof console and takes just a few minutes to remove the bezel where the module is mounted. On the bench, the cover protecting the ciurcuit boards was removed with three torx fasteners and the processor board piggy-backed on the main board was unplugged and set aside on a static control mat. The processor board is not serviceable without specialized test equipment.
So looking at the main board, a switching power supply was obvious. The capacitors used in a switch power supply must have a low ESR (equivalent series resistance) to permit the supplly to start up and operate. Capacitors used in this function must be quality parts with a high temperature rating and appropriate safe voltage rating.
The large capacitor adjacent to the switching inductor exhibited a terrible ESR and for all practical purposes had an open circuit.
This is a surface mounted device and once removed I replaced it with a conventional thru-hole leaded capacitor. I chose a 25 volt 220 uF 105 degree C component. Just for S&Gs, I reassembled the console and the Bluetooth system in the car once again works as well as it did when purchased new.
Costs?
30 minutes to remove and replace the console
30 minutes on the bench to test and replace the bad capacitor
$2.15 for the capacitor
Observations:
The dealership's labor estimate of 30 minutes to an hour is fairly typical. The parts markup is by the dealer and or the manufactureer is where the greed comes in. This is NOT a $650.00 part.
Johnson Control's attitude is very defensive - I am sure that they would not compromise their lucrative contract with Acura to produce these modules. They have no real retail face to the consumer.
Acura's attitude is surprising to me in that they do not care that these modules are failing. That is just my reaction to what I once imagined was an exceptional car company.
Recommendation: If your Bluetooth module is not working and you are out of warranty / goodwill assistance getting it fixed by Acura, take it out and let an electronics technician have a look. You might just be able to repeat my experience.
Good luck!
Since Acura, the dealership and the manufacturer of the Bluetooth module all declined to swap out my failed unit to perform a root cause failure analysis, I decided to have a look at this infamous module.
It is located in the roof console and takes just a few minutes to remove the bezel where the module is mounted. On the bench, the cover protecting the ciurcuit boards was removed with three torx fasteners and the processor board piggy-backed on the main board was unplugged and set aside on a static control mat. The processor board is not serviceable without specialized test equipment.
So looking at the main board, a switching power supply was obvious. The capacitors used in a switch power supply must have a low ESR (equivalent series resistance) to permit the supplly to start up and operate. Capacitors used in this function must be quality parts with a high temperature rating and appropriate safe voltage rating.
The large capacitor adjacent to the switching inductor exhibited a terrible ESR and for all practical purposes had an open circuit.
This is a surface mounted device and once removed I replaced it with a conventional thru-hole leaded capacitor. I chose a 25 volt 220 uF 105 degree C component. Just for S&Gs, I reassembled the console and the Bluetooth system in the car once again works as well as it did when purchased new.
Costs?
30 minutes to remove and replace the console
30 minutes on the bench to test and replace the bad capacitor
$2.15 for the capacitor
Observations:
The dealership's labor estimate of 30 minutes to an hour is fairly typical. The parts markup is by the dealer and or the manufactureer is where the greed comes in. This is NOT a $650.00 part.
Johnson Control's attitude is very defensive - I am sure that they would not compromise their lucrative contract with Acura to produce these modules. They have no real retail face to the consumer.
Acura's attitude is surprising to me in that they do not care that these modules are failing. That is just my reaction to what I once imagined was an exceptional car company.
Recommendation: If your Bluetooth module is not working and you are out of warranty / goodwill assistance getting it fixed by Acura, take it out and let an electronics technician have a look. You might just be able to repeat my experience.
Good luck!
06-30-2015, 11:53 PM
#752
FYI - be very careful when baking the HFL. I work in a kitchen. I decided to do it while at work. I was multi tasking at work and the tray slipped our of my hands. The circuit board slip and a bunch of the electronics fell off the board. So it's complete junk now. Not a big deal because it wasn't working anyway.
Does anyone have a spare board that hasn't been baked they'd be interested in sending me?
Thanks
George
Does anyone have a spare board that hasn't been baked they'd be interested in sending me?
Thanks
George
07-19-2015, 06:59 PM
#753
Acura Dealer - taking bullets from me concerning my findings rather than providing customer satisfaction on my RL 2005 - give an inch is a good metaphor but they have a mile to walk.
Love this post - as it offers hope that this can in fact, as I surmised, be fixed. As with computers, "have you rebooted" being clue one - but from there - swap a capacitor etc all makes sense except WHY won't they simply learn how to do this repair vs making a loyal Acura RA customer hate them and become an "Anti-brand ambassador"
I went back and forth with Acura of Oakland and their GM, slow to respond, and which with corporate speak, as he built a firewall around my satisfaction on this. I had just dropped over 2K on a timing belt/brake package on my RL and he insisted after many delays that he followed the Acura Man. protocol to test by Bluetooth Module. Of course a few miles late that d@#$ Serive B light came on as I have Syn Oil but that is another issue - hopefully I can clear the d*** warning light.
It is crystal clear that these modules are of defective design - and in fact IMO should be recalled. Time for Acura to man up on this one
[/B]
The "Stealership" after weeks of hemming and hawing "generously offered me to give me a 20% discount" as a one time "favor" for about $1450 or so plus tax. Really? - sooooo generous of them to mitigate their ream rate profit on this module of questionable quality. I should give them a tip for being so generous.
So compiling what I have learned in this terrific stream - I am going to fix this thing - which the Stealership maintains is not fixable, and will see how this turns out
Problem is - the Stealership and changed my love of the RL to making the brand Acura equate more or less to "sucking just like ever other dealer" - ergo my loyalty as we approach new car time - is zero - and may the best car model ( who appears to lie the least) win our purchase.
What an astonish #fail - as an approach. Bummer as the AWD RL drives awesome and I can touch 30MPG on the highway - but - next time.....
Love this post - as it offers hope that this can in fact, as I surmised, be fixed. As with computers, "have you rebooted" being clue one - but from there - swap a capacitor etc all makes sense except WHY won't they simply learn how to do this repair vs making a loyal Acura RA customer hate them and become an "Anti-brand ambassador"
I went back and forth with Acura of Oakland and their GM, slow to respond, and which with corporate speak, as he built a firewall around my satisfaction on this. I had just dropped over 2K on a timing belt/brake package on my RL and he insisted after many delays that he followed the Acura Man. protocol to test by Bluetooth Module. Of course a few miles late that d@#$ Serive B light came on as I have Syn Oil but that is another issue - hopefully I can clear the d*** warning light.
It is crystal clear that these modules are of defective design - and in fact IMO should be recalled. Time for Acura to man up on this one
[/B]
The "Stealership" after weeks of hemming and hawing "generously offered me to give me a 20% discount" as a one time "favor" for about $1450 or so plus tax. Really? - sooooo generous of them to mitigate their ream rate profit on this module of questionable quality. I should give them a tip for being so generous.
So compiling what I have learned in this terrific stream - I am going to fix this thing - which the Stealership maintains is not fixable, and will see how this turns out
Problem is - the Stealership and changed my love of the RL to making the brand Acura equate more or less to "sucking just like ever other dealer" - ergo my loyalty as we approach new car time - is zero - and may the best car model ( who appears to lie the least) win our purchase.
What an astonish #fail - as an approach. Bummer as the AWD RL drives awesome and I can touch 30MPG on the highway - but - next time.....
07-19-2015, 08:40 PM
#754
Cruisin'
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 18
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Baking Success
Great thread - so much info. HFL hasn't been able to pair with any phones for the last 6 months in my '05 Nav. So today I finally has some time so I baked, cooled, baked again and now it's working.
Hopefully this fix will last as I've used HFL pretty much daily since I bought the car brand new back in '05 and I hate having to wear an in-ear BT mic in the car.
Hopefully this fix will last as I've used HFL pretty much daily since I bought the car brand new back in '05 and I hate having to wear an in-ear BT mic in the car.
07-28-2015, 11:34 AM
#755
10th Gear
Well the baking method lasted a few months for me...went out again and didn't get a chance to try it again or replace it.
Came home yesterday after a 2 week long business trip and the car battery was completely dead, I'm assuming due to the HFL unit not working and staying on "Booting Up".
Is there any drawbacks to just popping open my unit and unplugging it or just taking it out? Not sure I want to spend the money for a replacement yet.
Came home yesterday after a 2 week long business trip and the car battery was completely dead, I'm assuming due to the HFL unit not working and staying on "Booting Up".
Is there any drawbacks to just popping open my unit and unplugging it or just taking it out? Not sure I want to spend the money for a replacement yet.
07-28-2015, 07:38 PM
#756
Well the baking method lasted a few months for me...went out again and didn't get a chance to try it again or replace it.
Came home yesterday after a 2 week long business trip and the car battery was completely dead, I'm assuming due to the HFL unit not working and staying on "Booting Up".
Is there any drawbacks to just popping open my unit and unplugging it or just taking it out? Not sure I want to spend the money for a replacement yet.
Came home yesterday after a 2 week long business trip and the car battery was completely dead, I'm assuming due to the HFL unit not working and staying on "Booting Up".
Is there any drawbacks to just popping open my unit and unplugging it or just taking it out? Not sure I want to spend the money for a replacement yet.
07-28-2015, 10:08 PM
#757
Registered but harmless
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Age: 59
Posts: 14,846
Received 1,106 Likes
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764 Posts
I use the phone in the car often enough that it justified spending $180-$220 on a new HFL from one of our Acura dealer vendors.
It took less than 10 minutes to remove and replace the HFL unit.
08-02-2015, 01:32 PM
#758
[x] FWCC [x]
So I guess this is it for my HFL then lol...i don't need it that bad but it was definitely a good feature to have! Time to buy a $30 bluetooth piece! lol with higher range and better quality.
08-04-2015, 03:58 PM
#759
Would someone with experience be willing to replace the necessary capacitors on my '05 TL w/NAV HFL board?
It's been burning through batteries and I'd like to get it fixed but don't have the tools or experience. Will pay $$$ for labor and parts. I'm in Oregon, but can always ship it if need be.
It's been burning through batteries and I'd like to get it fixed but don't have the tools or experience. Will pay $$$ for labor and parts. I'm in Oregon, but can always ship it if need be.
08-22-2015, 10:22 PM
#760
5th Gear
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Kentucky, USA
Posts: 5
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** Summary so far - and a success story!
I actually joined AcuraZine specifically so that I could share my success story. I have a 2006 TSX and the HFL stopped working (it would not see the phone and would not pair).
First, let me re-cap the first 19 pages:
The early HandsFreeLink (HFL) / Bluetooth modules are subject to failure after some number of years. There is a working theory that a capacitor failure is likely the problem and there is mixed success with replacing this capacitor. It worked for some and not for others. Common problems are that the HFL does not respond to the button press, shows a message of 'Booting Up', or will not pair phones ("No Phone has been detected").
The entire module is very easy to replace - but the price of the module can be an issue. The older TL module can be had for less than $200 while the 2006-08 TSX module (39770-SEC-A01) is currently selling for more than $800 new and $100 used.
The module is above the center roof console in the early TL's and behind the passenger kick plate (just in front of the front passenger door) in the TSX.
Another theory is that the solder has cracked and you can bake it to repair it. This is what worked for me. Follow back a few pages and you will see pictures - but at a high level, pull the printed circuit board out of the plastic enclosure, separate them into 2 parts (some are only a single board - seems most are 2 parts), elevate them slightly off of a cookie sheet with foil on it ( I used more foil on the corners to elevate the boards about an inch) and bake in a pre-heated oven at 385F for 8 minutes. Allow it to cool gradually for about 20 minutes, reassemble and then test again.
Pro-Tip for TSX drivers: Leave the HFL module casing in-place bolted to the frame (Don't use an 11mm socket to remove it) - just pry the cover off and remove the circuit board. It's a lot quicker to put it back together.
So in summary: If you have a 2004 - 2008 or so TL or TSX with HFL, first remove the module and try to bake it to see if that solves your problem. If it does not, try to replace the entire module if the price is low enough.. Good luck!
First, let me re-cap the first 19 pages:
The early HandsFreeLink (HFL) / Bluetooth modules are subject to failure after some number of years. There is a working theory that a capacitor failure is likely the problem and there is mixed success with replacing this capacitor. It worked for some and not for others. Common problems are that the HFL does not respond to the button press, shows a message of 'Booting Up', or will not pair phones ("No Phone has been detected").
The entire module is very easy to replace - but the price of the module can be an issue. The older TL module can be had for less than $200 while the 2006-08 TSX module (39770-SEC-A01) is currently selling for more than $800 new and $100 used.
The module is above the center roof console in the early TL's and behind the passenger kick plate (just in front of the front passenger door) in the TSX.
Another theory is that the solder has cracked and you can bake it to repair it. This is what worked for me. Follow back a few pages and you will see pictures - but at a high level, pull the printed circuit board out of the plastic enclosure, separate them into 2 parts (some are only a single board - seems most are 2 parts), elevate them slightly off of a cookie sheet with foil on it ( I used more foil on the corners to elevate the boards about an inch) and bake in a pre-heated oven at 385F for 8 minutes. Allow it to cool gradually for about 20 minutes, reassemble and then test again.
Pro-Tip for TSX drivers: Leave the HFL module casing in-place bolted to the frame (Don't use an 11mm socket to remove it) - just pry the cover off and remove the circuit board. It's a lot quicker to put it back together.
So in summary: If you have a 2004 - 2008 or so TL or TSX with HFL, first remove the module and try to bake it to see if that solves your problem. If it does not, try to replace the entire module if the price is low enough.. Good luck!