Bluetooth Fails
05-08-2013, 02:06 AM
#521
oh, didn't know what I was thinking. I meant to say the plastic connector between the 2 boards. it fell off the tin foil and touched the surface of the oven. I might have been thinking about switching the burnt bulbs in my HVAC while typing that out. Silly me
05-11-2013, 10:12 PM
#522
Hmm.. interesting development.
So I just had an idea after reading what you did to get it to work again.
What if I potted the entire board. This would prevent it from separating and could prevent heat from transferring into it.
I currently don't have one, I pitched the two that I had out since I couldn't get them to work.
But I may purchase a new one and pot the entire thing inside of the plastic black case that goes over it.
That would prevent components from lifting and should help with the heat transfer in the roof since plastic is not a good conductor of heat.
So I just had an idea after reading what you did to get it to work again.
What if I potted the entire board. This would prevent it from separating and could prevent heat from transferring into it.
I currently don't have one, I pitched the two that I had out since I couldn't get them to work.
But I may purchase a new one and pot the entire thing inside of the plastic black case that goes over it.
That would prevent components from lifting and should help with the heat transfer in the roof since plastic is not a good conductor of heat.
05-12-2013, 05:32 PM
#523
Advanced
Hi Guys,
I just learned today that Canadian models have different kind of HFL modules, I was really hoping to get it from the States for less than $200.
If you can believe it, Acura is selling it up here for almost $500 (tax included), I am not surprised no more.
For my fellows Canadians (and not only
), do you guys know how to adapt the American HFL model to the Canadian HFL connector?
Thanks.
Catalin
I just learned today that Canadian models have different kind of HFL modules, I was really hoping to get it from the States for less than $200.
If you can believe it, Acura is selling it up here for almost $500 (tax included), I am not surprised no more.
For my fellows Canadians (and not only
), do you guys know how to adapt the American HFL model to the Canadian HFL connector?Thanks.
Catalin
thanks!
05-15-2013, 04:28 PM
#525
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I have a HFL Module for sale if anyone is interested. It was installed in the car for only 2 weeks and works perfectly. The only reason I am selling is because we sold the car and the new owner was not interested in the bluetooth functionality lol.
05-15-2013, 05:07 PM
#526
Advanced
thanks.
05-16-2013, 08:15 AM
#527
Can't send you PMs. Your quota is full.
05-21-2013, 08:42 PM
#529
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Hey guys i found this one hope helps
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...FQqk4Aod1kkAZQ
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...FQqk4Aod1kkAZQ
05-23-2013, 05:13 PM
#531
anybody still have the original pics from mmclendon? his links are no good
lfpayne, can't PM. do you still have the HFL unit for sale?
lfpayne, can't PM. do you still have the HFL unit for sale?
05-30-2013, 12:07 PM
#532
Hi,
I was reading one post in AcuraZine about hidden feature of Acura TL such as making a phone call on the phone and transfer it to HFL in TL, and I was so motivated to do this function though my HFL died last year! So I tried baking HFL circuits in the oven last night (7pm), it worked! and all phone calls were made properly and even old phone-book information were still there. I was a little worried about battery in this morning but it was ok, I came to work with no issue as usual, HFL was still working. I do not know how long this lasts and will update if I see any battery issue or HFL failure again! FYI, I used foil to cover top & bottom and foil ball to support underneath circuit panel. 385 degree 8 mins.
I was reading one post in AcuraZine about hidden feature of Acura TL such as making a phone call on the phone and transfer it to HFL in TL, and I was so motivated to do this function though my HFL died last year! So I tried baking HFL circuits in the oven last night (7pm), it worked! and all phone calls were made properly and even old phone-book information were still there. I was a little worried about battery in this morning but it was ok, I came to work with no issue as usual, HFL was still working. I do not know how long this lasts and will update if I see any battery issue or HFL failure again! FYI, I used foil to cover top & bottom and foil ball to support underneath circuit panel. 385 degree 8 mins.
05-31-2013, 05:20 PM
#534
My hfl link is acting up too. I've had the car for 2/3 weeks and it has never worked. I worked for like 15 min. today but wouldn't pair to my phone,now back to no response. I have a 2006 Tl with Navi..My board looks nothing like the one's I 've seen on the thread..
http://
http:
//
http://L=http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/jsmack27/media/photo3-1_zpsb10909ac.jpg.html]
[/URL]
http://
http:
//http://L=http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/jsmack27/media/photo3-1_zpsb10909ac.jpg.html]
[/URL]
Last edited by jsmack27; 05-31-2013 at 05:30 PM.
05-31-2013, 09:10 PM
#535
My hfl link is acting up too. I've had the car for 2/3 weeks and it has never worked. I worked for like 15 min. today but wouldn't pair to my phone,now back to no response. I have a 2006 Tl with Navi..My board looks nothing like the one's I 've seen on the thread..
http://
http:
//
http://L=http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/jsmack27/media/photo3-1_zpsb10909ac.jpg.html]
[/URL]
http://
http:
//http://L=http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/jsmack27/media/photo3-1_zpsb10909ac.jpg.html]
[/URL]Uhm, that's the homelink board for opening your garage door.
After you pop out the black piece with the homelink and lights look back up where it was.
There are 4 like 8mm bolts you take out then remove the bezel that the other assembly was snapped into. Your HFL is in the front part of this, one more connector and the whole thing comes out.
06-03-2013, 06:13 PM
#537
Well I found a guy that was close and was parting out a 05 TL, so I bought the Bezel with the hfl in it for $40 total. I installed it today and the button works now!! but now I have a new problem. The car won't recognize my iphone 4s. I did the system clear step and when it gets to the part to search for phones, my iphone doesn't see the car.
06-06-2013, 10:16 AM
#538
-------Tim-------
Well, my Bluetooth has been out for awhile now. Came back to see if any new tricks worked, and found the baking idea. Tried to for 7 min......let it cool. Reinstalled it, no go. Waited til the next day, baked it @ 385 for 9 min this time, and low and behold, It Worked! Has been working fine for a few days now. We will see for how long! Thanks for the idea! 
The following users liked this post:
sniperside (06-07-2013)
06-08-2013, 06:05 PM
#540
N00b Extraordinaire
HFL Firware updates
Well I found a guy that was close and was parting out a 05 TL, so I bought the Bezel with the hfl in it for $40 total. I installed it today and the button works now!! but now I have a new problem. The car won't recognize my iphone 4s. I did the system clear step and when it gets to the part to search for phones, my iphone doesn't see the car.
06-08-2013, 06:37 PM
#541
N00b Extraordinaire
Pot's bad. Mkay?
Hmm.. interesting development.
So I just had an idea after reading what you did to get it to work again.
What if I potted the entire board. This would prevent it from separating and could prevent heat from transferring into it.
I currently don't have one, I pitched the two that I had out since I couldn't get them to work.
But I may purchase a new one and pot the entire thing inside of the plastic black case that goes over it.
That would prevent components from lifting and should help with the heat transfer in the roof since plastic is not a good conductor of heat.
So I just had an idea after reading what you did to get it to work again.
What if I potted the entire board. This would prevent it from separating and could prevent heat from transferring into it.
I currently don't have one, I pitched the two that I had out since I couldn't get them to work.
But I may purchase a new one and pot the entire thing inside of the plastic black case that goes over it.
That would prevent components from lifting and should help with the heat transfer in the roof since plastic is not a good conductor of heat.
06-08-2013, 08:04 PM
#542
cooked everything for 9min. no go. they proceed to precision solder all caps/components individually. still no go. i keep getting the "Booting Up" when in my HFL menu. i just need to order me a new one and put this past me
06-09-2013, 06:25 PM
#543
-------Tim-------
^sorry to hear that. To be honest I didn't have my fingers crossed that it would work, and am still surprised it did. I did not seperate the boards, and also placed the boards on the foil balls (4 of them to raise it off the cookie sheet).
Before the baking, all I had was "booting up" on the MID under HFL!
Before the baking, all I had was "booting up" on the MID under HFL!
06-13-2013, 07:09 AM
#545
new hfl module arrived yesterday. replace the old with the new within 10 mins and immediately was able to pair my phone and setup my phonebook. sigh!!! its good to have my bluetooth again
06-16-2013, 07:18 PM
#546
I replaced the cap. Re_touched the solder on other power supply caps too. I powered the unit and measured the voltages all levels are stable. But it did not work. But thanks for all the ideas.
06-19-2013, 01:38 AM
#547
Still trying to get a mic input to work on it though, bluetooth headsets are borked on the N7 unless they've come out with a fix recently.
I'll probably never purchase another HFL again.
06-19-2013, 08:58 PM
#548
Advanced
Hi Guys,
I just learned today that Canadian models have different kind of HFL modules, I was really hoping to get it from the States for less than $200.
If you can believe it, Acura is selling it up here for almost $500 (tax included), I am not surprised no more.
For my fellows Canadians (and not only), do you guys know how to adapt the American HFL model to the Canadian HFL connector?
Thanks.
Catalin
I just learned today that Canadian models have different kind of HFL modules, I was really hoping to get it from the States for less than $200.
If you can believe it, Acura is selling it up here for almost $500 (tax included), I am not surprised no more.
For my fellows Canadians (and not only
), do you guys know how to adapt the American HFL model to the Canadian HFL connector?Thanks.
Catalin
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...php?p=14165089
Thanks to mattymac, if it goes well, he (she
) just saved me about $400 which is the difference that the Canadian dealers are ripping us off, sorry, charging us up here.Cheers.
06-24-2013, 11:17 PM
#550
Try turning off your WiFi on the iPhone. For some reason it was interfering with my ability to pair my iPhone 5 to my TL ('06). It would time out at the last step, but after turning off the WiFi it went through smoothly.
06-29-2013, 09:06 PM
#551
Advanced
Yes, of course I will update the 'fix'.
What temp did you bake your modules and for how long?
I don't remember where I wound up reading about the temp & time. I just kept clicking and reading, and clicking on another link and reading & that led to another post, & so on... I would think that even the way you place the boards on the cookie sheet and where you place the foil 'balls' would make a big difference, as if you were to put the boards in the oven upside down without the foil balls underneath certain components to support them, you could have components dropping right out of the board, or creating an intermittant connection instead of fixing one... again, idk anything about this, I'm just looking at it from a common sense point of view...
What temp did you bake your modules and for how long?
I don't remember where I wound up reading about the temp & time. I just kept clicking and reading, and clicking on another link and reading & that led to another post, & so on... I would think that even the way you place the boards on the cookie sheet and where you place the foil 'balls' would make a big difference, as if you were to put the boards in the oven upside down without the foil balls underneath certain components to support them, you could have components dropping right out of the board, or creating an intermittant connection instead of fixing one... again, idk anything about this, I'm just looking at it from a common sense point of view...
Thanks.
07-03-2013, 10:57 PM
#552
Hey Guys, I just signed up specifically for this thread and more or less revive the issue. I have a 2005 Acura TL myself, I was experiencing HFL problems and getting stuck at BOOTING UP, so after investigation of the issue and much help from you guys. I have fixed the issue.
I own a few Smartphone/Computer repair shops in Florida but we will pretty much fix anything with a PCB.
The conclusion I have come to is the problem all comes down to the board connector, after many hours of examining both boards and testing every circuit with a multimeter and power source my HFL is hot from the harness all the way in. So I disconnected the top board and tested all the pins in the connector, same thing all fine. So I did what a few members did, I applied pressure to the connector and sure enough the HFL Booted and everything worked perfectly. Within a few minutes the Bluetooth disconnected and would no longer pair with my phone or any other for that matter. So to get to what I did, I pulled the HFL out again and returned to my shop, most guys using ovens it's a great tip but risky as you could cause more damage to the PCB. We have a SMD Rework station, it is a small station that produces hot air which is controllable and regulated, I used the smallest nozzle I had and reflowed the main Bluetooth chip. What I did it directly heated the chip at 90 degrees Celsius for 120 seconds, than increased to 120 degrees celsicus and all the way up to 300 degrees Celsius. The reason for this is you do not want to "shock" the chipset by raising the heat to fast. Once the chip reached 300 degrees Celsius on the surface (you can verify by user a laser thermo) I let it cool for 45 minutes. Next thing I did was checked the capacitor and added some thicker solder points using some Rosen Core. Next thing was the connector, this was the culprit, same thing I heated all the points till the solder liquified and than cooled. Next I joined the boards together and used a silicon based adhesive and painted the connector to join together, this created a tight seal but if ever need to split a razor blade would slice right threw it. After than I took foam and cut a thin rectangular piece and seated it on the bottom of the board than reassembled so when putting the shroud back on and replacing the 3 screws it would apply pressure to keep the connector locked. After all that my HFL worked perfectly and the voice recognition works amazingly. I know this is a very long post for my first post but hopefully it'll help someone. I am also considering offering a service to do all of this and warranty it through my company and offer a mail in service. If anyone has any questions and need help DIY Ill be more than happy to help anyway possible.
I own a few Smartphone/Computer repair shops in Florida but we will pretty much fix anything with a PCB.
The conclusion I have come to is the problem all comes down to the board connector, after many hours of examining both boards and testing every circuit with a multimeter and power source my HFL is hot from the harness all the way in. So I disconnected the top board and tested all the pins in the connector, same thing all fine. So I did what a few members did, I applied pressure to the connector and sure enough the HFL Booted and everything worked perfectly. Within a few minutes the Bluetooth disconnected and would no longer pair with my phone or any other for that matter. So to get to what I did, I pulled the HFL out again and returned to my shop, most guys using ovens it's a great tip but risky as you could cause more damage to the PCB. We have a SMD Rework station, it is a small station that produces hot air which is controllable and regulated, I used the smallest nozzle I had and reflowed the main Bluetooth chip. What I did it directly heated the chip at 90 degrees Celsius for 120 seconds, than increased to 120 degrees celsicus and all the way up to 300 degrees Celsius. The reason for this is you do not want to "shock" the chipset by raising the heat to fast. Once the chip reached 300 degrees Celsius on the surface (you can verify by user a laser thermo) I let it cool for 45 minutes. Next thing I did was checked the capacitor and added some thicker solder points using some Rosen Core. Next thing was the connector, this was the culprit, same thing I heated all the points till the solder liquified and than cooled. Next I joined the boards together and used a silicon based adhesive and painted the connector to join together, this created a tight seal but if ever need to split a razor blade would slice right threw it. After than I took foam and cut a thin rectangular piece and seated it on the bottom of the board than reassembled so when putting the shroud back on and replacing the 3 screws it would apply pressure to keep the connector locked. After all that my HFL worked perfectly and the voice recognition works amazingly. I know this is a very long post for my first post but hopefully it'll help someone. I am also considering offering a service to do all of this and warranty it through my company and offer a mail in service. If anyone has any questions and need help DIY Ill be more than happy to help anyway possible.
07-04-2013, 07:12 PM
#555
Advanced
Thanks for sharing, I can see that you put some time into it and we all appreciate your feedback. Also thanks for offering to help others.
I would be cautious though, in your case the culprit was the connector, but any part on the board can get a poor connection and there are quite a few on board (especially the SMD ones).
Do you believe that the poor ventilation of the module combined with the heat it generates is what loosens the solder connections?
07-06-2013, 07:06 AM
#557
How do you still have warranty on an '06? My bumper to bumper expired in July of '12 on my '08. HFL module crapped out in May of this year. Dealer and Acura customer care were no help. Just replaced this weekend ($175 for the new module). I plan to get into the failed module to see if I can repair (or have someone repair it) and save as a spare.
07-08-2013, 09:46 AM
#558
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Does anyone have the photos that are mentioned in this thread? I have tried to go to the link but it appears to be gone. My HFL is out and I'd like to give this repair a shot but I'm not sure which capacitor is being referenced. I have found out that all of the units are the same only the housing is different so I can just buy one on e-bay, but I figure if I can get it working this way it's worth it to try.
07-11-2013, 06:22 PM
#560
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Instructions
You gave a link to a site here you had posted pictures but it seems to be broken. Can you repost pics that show which caps we should be looking at.
Good news! I was able to repair my Acura Bluetooth module. As you may recall it suddenly quit pairing with any phone but passed the onboard diagnostics. It now works fine.
Since Acura, the dealership and the manufacturer of the Bluetooth module all declined to swap out my failed unit to perform a root cause failure analysis, I decided to have a look at this infamous module.
It is located in the roof console and takes just a few minutes to remove the bezel where the module is mounted. On the bench, the cover protecting the ciurcuit boards was removed with three torx fasteners and the processor board piggy-backed on the main board was unplugged and set aside on a static control mat. The processor board is not serviceable without specialized test equipment.
So looking at the main board, a switching power supply was obvious. The capacitors used in a switch power supply must have a low ESR (equivalent series resistance) to permit the supplly to start up and operate. Capacitors used in this function must be quality parts with a high temperature rating and appropriate safe voltage rating.
The large capacitor adjacent to the switching inductor exhibited a terrible ESR and for all practical purposes had an open circuit.
This is a surface mounted device and once removed I replaced it with a conventional thru-hole leaded capacitor. I chose a 25 volt 220 uF 105 degree C component. Just for S&Gs, I reassembled the console and the Bluetooth system in the car once again works as well as it did when purchased new.
Costs?
30 minutes to remove and replace the console
30 minutes on the bench to test and replace the bad capacitor
$2.15 for the capacitor
Observations:
The dealership's labor estimate of 30 minutes to an hour is fairly typical. The parts markup is by the dealer and or the manufactureer is where the greed comes in. This is NOT a $650.00 part.
Johnson Control's attitude is very defensive - I am sure that they would not compromise their lucrative contract with Acura to produce these modules. They have no real retail face to the consumer.
Acura's attitude is surprising to me in that they do not care that these modules are failing. That is just my reaction to what I once imagined was an exceptional car company.
Recommendation: If your Bluetooth module is not working and you are out of warranty / goodwill assistance getting it fixed by Acura, take it out and let an electronics technician have a look. You might just be able to repeat my experience.
Good luck!
Since Acura, the dealership and the manufacturer of the Bluetooth module all declined to swap out my failed unit to perform a root cause failure analysis, I decided to have a look at this infamous module.
It is located in the roof console and takes just a few minutes to remove the bezel where the module is mounted. On the bench, the cover protecting the ciurcuit boards was removed with three torx fasteners and the processor board piggy-backed on the main board was unplugged and set aside on a static control mat. The processor board is not serviceable without specialized test equipment.
So looking at the main board, a switching power supply was obvious. The capacitors used in a switch power supply must have a low ESR (equivalent series resistance) to permit the supplly to start up and operate. Capacitors used in this function must be quality parts with a high temperature rating and appropriate safe voltage rating.
The large capacitor adjacent to the switching inductor exhibited a terrible ESR and for all practical purposes had an open circuit.
This is a surface mounted device and once removed I replaced it with a conventional thru-hole leaded capacitor. I chose a 25 volt 220 uF 105 degree C component. Just for S&Gs, I reassembled the console and the Bluetooth system in the car once again works as well as it did when purchased new.
Costs?
30 minutes to remove and replace the console
30 minutes on the bench to test and replace the bad capacitor
$2.15 for the capacitor
Observations:
The dealership's labor estimate of 30 minutes to an hour is fairly typical. The parts markup is by the dealer and or the manufactureer is where the greed comes in. This is NOT a $650.00 part.
Johnson Control's attitude is very defensive - I am sure that they would not compromise their lucrative contract with Acura to produce these modules. They have no real retail face to the consumer.
Acura's attitude is surprising to me in that they do not care that these modules are failing. That is just my reaction to what I once imagined was an exceptional car company.
Recommendation: If your Bluetooth module is not working and you are out of warranty / goodwill assistance getting it fixed by Acura, take it out and let an electronics technician have a look. You might just be able to repeat my experience.
Good luck!