I've heard a lot of good things about the Massive Audio RK6 on here and I'm really tempted to get a set if the price is right.

Are there any better speakers for the money? $200-250 Range.

 

Depends on what you want to do. The rk6 require alot of power. What do have for an amp?

 

No amp yet.

 

What is your total budget then. Including installation supplies, amps, speakers, etc.

 

I'd say $400 for amp/speakers and $50-100 for etc.

Might I add, I have 2 12" Cerwin Vega VMax and Audiopipe 1500d. Doesn't sound great but it works for me.

 

Look at the HAT Imagine series. Great reviews and right around $225 or so I believe. Look into buying a nicer quality, used amp then a new, cheaper amp for the $200 remaining. Make sure to sound dampen the doors, or you will be severely disappointed by lack of midbass. Good luck.

 

The massives don't have an adjustable crossover. Many other sets do not have adjustable crossovers either. If this is important to you, then find one that is adjustable.

Here are some more sets to look at:
Image Dynamics CTX65, Boston Pro 60, Focal Access, Hertz ESK or Morel Maximo 6. The Morels or Focals would be my top choice.

I echo the sentiment to deaden your doors. 4 square feet on each door will help a lot.

 

Make sure you get an amp that takes balanced input. I'll save you some hassle. Some JL and most kicker do. You'll either need that, a amp that takes speaker level inputs, a line out converter, or a line driver/processor that can convert balanced>unbalanced.

 

I know someone that has some RK6's for sale for cheaper than your budget


Things you NEED to do:
1. Deaden (& seal if you have the $) doors
2. Buy amp that can accept balanced inputs OR buy RF-BLD or Audiocontrol units


Component Sets: Already covered a good range above..

Amps: Check your local craigslist for good buys. If you're not sure, post what location is closest to you on Craigslist and we can help



$400 for amp speakers isn't too bad. Are you installing this? You also need to look at speaker depth and size. Some speakers will fit right in when you use a 1/2" or 3/4" MDF ring..some will not! (..RK6)

 

That's when the jigsaw with the metal blade comes out. You'll likely need to remove the plastic seal around the speaker in the door card as well.

 

hmm the RK6 won't drop in even with MDF rings? What did you do to make them fit?

Good info guys. I'll read up on them after work.

 

Massive magnet, so they need a descent amount of metal removal. Almost any speaker is going to require both a spacer and *some* metal removal.

 

Most 6.5" comp. sets won't just drop right in. Mostly due to depth but the others are due to depth and magnet size. I cut about 1/4" around the existing metal. Enough that the MDF ring will still mount but the magnet would fit in.

All speaker recommendations are great budget set ups. Good luck!!

 

What did you use to cut the metal?

 

Easiest way to do it-

Hold down your speaker ring where you want it. (Or just a template the size of your magnet)draw around it with a sharpie. Use a jigsaw with a metal blade to make straight cut to this line from the center. You then have a choice. You can use a hammer to bend back the tabs you have created or you can now go around with the jigsaw and cut off all the tabs. Tabs make it much easier to cut off the excess metal in sections rather than have to make a long curved cut. Touch up exposed metal with paint and install your ring.

 

I used a dremel...SUPER EASY with the right metal bit. But yeah, like Geeky said, buy some 3/4" MDF rings for 6.5" mids and use that as a template. You're going to need MDF rings one way or the other so might as well order them.

Here's the one's I have. They are oversized in the middle to fit the RK6 magnet. They are also recessed so it sits flush. Pretty nice for $18 shipped. Good seller

http://cgi.ebay.com/Massive-Audio-RK...item256349c902

 

Yeah I saw that ad. Definitely would get that.

Does the tweeter drop right in? I prefer it to have a stock look and not have it sticking out.

 

You're going to have to do some work with any tweeter. Part of the issue with the stock grill is that the opening is really small. It looks like a big tweeter, but its almost laughable when you pull it out. So you'll either have an opening that's too small, have to fabricate grill covers, or top mount your tweets. I top mounted mine, put you may be able to cut out the holes in the stock grills, epoxy in the new tweeter and then cover it with grill cloth.

 

I was reading up on the JL Audio 300/4. I hear it accepts balanced inputs.
Can I get away with mounting it under the passenger seat?

Just ordered a set of the Massive Audio Rk6. Seems to fit my needs more than the other speakers you guys posted.

Thanks for all your help.

 

polk audio db6501

or better

polk audio mm6501

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m...-speakers.html

 

How much did you order the massive's for??

 

About $180 BNIB.

Not sure of what amp to get now.

 

Could have saved ya $$ on mine! For an amp, depends..are you installing this stuff?

You're at $180. Plus $20 for rings so $200. Which leaves roughly $250-300 for amp and install kit. Plus if your amp doesn't accept balanced then tack on another $100-200 to make it work. I would highly suggest spending more right now and deadening the doors. Even sealing them will help. You're product is only as good as the install. Also, the 300/4 is a good amp but the massive's are power hungry and like 200+. Hope you listen loud because they don't move much until they are turned up quite a bit, but by then the tweeter is screaming. I'd look into an amp that can do active if you can so you can tone these down.

 

I will try to seal and deaden the doors next month or so. My focus is to get the speakers and amp installed.

I was thinking if I can install the amp under the passenger seat then I can save some money on 8 gauge wire and make it easier on myself so I don't have to run wires to the trunk.

I will be doing the installation myself. It's my first time doing door speakers/tweeters.

and 200W? I thought 150W RMS was already pushing it.

 

Have you looked to see what amp's you can find on DIYMA or craigslist?? You might be able to find a smaller amp but generally they're a bit more expensive. PDX, ARC, etc.

 

Yeah I've been scavenging the DIYMA classifieds for a good amp. I actually got the RK6s there.

 

Rainbow and Hybrid would come to mind.

 

I don't understand balanced inputs on an amp.

Does it mean I can solder RCAs to the signal before the stock amp and hook it up to an amp that accepts these inputs?

What about speaker inputs? Wouldn't that be the same or will it have more noise since it's after the stock amp?

Or could I just get a Navone LOC like I did for my subs?

 

The signal from the HU to the stock amp is balanced. Balanced signals were made to reject noise and are very good at it. This signal is full range and very flat. This is the best signal to use IMO.

The signal after the amp is speaker level. You can use these, but they are modified by the stock amp.

Certain amps accept balanced signals. If they do not, then they will be really noisy.

A LOC on the preamp signal will not help. A LOC on the post-amp signal will allow you amps to work, but will suffer from the standard LOC signal loss.

There are many amps that accept a balanced signal and many others that don't. Check with the manufacturer. You can buy a line driver for $75 that will convert the signal - a Rockford Fosgate BLD.

 

The audio control matrix ($150) is probably a better buy in the long run since it is 6 vs 2 channels, but buying and amp that is balanced to start is the best bet. Kicker seems to make the cheapest ones I could find with balanced input. JL audio accepts balanced input on some of their line. It is sometimes referred to as differential input, so look for either term.

 

I don't know why too many people would need more than 2 non-processed channels. One for a 4 channel or 2 channel amp. The sub doesn't need one since it could LP out the noise and/or use the speaker level inputs. That leaves one of the 2 channels still unused.

If you need 6 channels, then put that $150 towards a processor IMO.

 

Sure. I'm just thinking expansion. If you eventually want to amp everything, the bld is too little and its more money later on. Plus if you have an isimple, some people complain about the line level being too low. You could use the extra channels to drive the line into the HU. I agree you're better off just buying a used processor rather than spending a ton of money on locs and line drivers though.

 

The massives LOVE power..well the mid does.

a bridged 4 channel would be ideal imo.

 

Would you suggest a MB Quart onx4.60? I was looking at some arc audio minis but this MB Quart caught my eye.

Or should I get something a little more powerful?

 

Passive or active??

 

Passive.

 

I'd go with the 4.80 for only $20 more. In all honesty though, I'd go with the Q so you can go active. Don't forget you'll need a RF-BLD, Audiocontrol Matrix/etc, or processor also.

 

What about the Q means you can go active where you can't with the others?

Other options are
-An amp that takes speaker level inputs
-An amp that takes balanced inputs.

 

I think I'll save the money for sound deadener

With the 4.80, how much power would I give the RK6?

 

I hear people giving them 150w each and one said 250w each. I can't find a definitive answer for how much power the rk6 should get.

I think I will be ordering a MB Quart 4.80 and a Navone LOC within the hour.