Audio install nightmare FYI

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Old 10-03-2011 | 10:23 AM
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flyromeo3's Avatar
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Audio install nightmare FYI

If anyone plans on installing more than 1 amp.
I highly suggest upgrading your power wire.
Especially if running an 8gauge wire.

My components
MB Quart 4.60 amp
Alpine M500 amp
Audiocontrol LC8i


After mixed reviews, I can CONFIRM the LC8i, IS NOT a line driver. I took the signals pre-amp and the output is just to low..
I cranked the volumne to 35 before I can slightly hear anything. So, I ended up using the post-amp signal.

Lc8i powers up fine. I used one of those low voltage triggers so my factory radio can power on the amps.
I tuned it according to the manual. As soon as I connected the power to my amps and proceeded to turn on the radio.
It would trip my circuit breaker under the hood.

....ohh btw,...I need new hydraulic hood holder( whatever they are called......) my hood closed on my head, and its not a fun feeling.

back to the story.

As soon as I disconnected my amps, and turned on the radio. It wouldn't trip the breaker. LC8i powered up fine.

Ultimately I disconnected the LC8i and placed everything back the way it was.

Left my Alpine amp connected with no problems.


The only thing I can think of are:

1. Power wire needs to be upgraded..I have a feeling this MB Quart amp is pulling a lot of energy

2. I have positive and negative distribution blocks. Would that have anything to do with why it would trip? I was using the same distribution blocks prior to this without any hiccup.

I'm so frustrated, I was at this for about 8.5 hours yesterday. Ended up having to rip my radio out because at one point it wouldnt turn on..... I looked at the radio fuse and it was good. I thought perhaps there is a fuse behind the radio,...which after I gutted the dash out, I found out there wasnt.

I ended up read the fuse panel diagram wrong and in fact the fuse was blown to the radio.....


So,.....my solution....get a bigger power wire and pray a bit longer.

The MB quart amp works fine as I connected it to my battery backup bootser and hooked up my ipad to it just to see if it works.

I'm really leaning towards the problem being that small power wire.


im writing this on my ipad so if this doesnt make sense I'll correct when i get back to the office.
Old 10-03-2011 | 11:22 AM
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garrett's Avatar
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no offense intended but why would you even consider using such a small power wire?

at that distance if your running anything over 200 RMS you need at minimum 4 gauge then if your running anything over 500 or so RMS you need at minimum 2 gauge. In your situation i would be running no less then 0 gauge to the distribution block then 2 or 4 gauge to the amps depending on the size of the power input on the amp.
Old 10-03-2011 | 12:18 PM
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I had the wire in there already for my single amp.
Figured I could get away without running new wire.

Now i have to search for my 2gauge wire in my garage someplace.
Old 10-03-2011 | 01:18 PM
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These should be set it stone:

More Power = Always!
Largest Gauge Wiring = Always!
Old 10-03-2011 | 01:21 PM
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hmm...so 8guage wire is a no-no? would that cause your interior lights to flicker? would that cause your amp "power button light" to flicker?

what if you have distribution blocks with ONE 4guage input going to TWO 8guage outputs? what then?
Old 10-03-2011 | 01:33 PM
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I'm sure a 5-6ft run of 8ga. like you have is okay. It's when you're running from battery to the amp in the trunk (20ish feet) of all 4ga. Are you getting flicker?
Old 10-03-2011 | 01:43 PM
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I am running 2 JL amps with 800 watts total on 4 gauge and before that, i was running a 800 watt infinity amp. 4 gauge is fine as long as you have the proper sized fuse or in my case circuit breaker. Just remember the smaller the gauge of wire then the current will be higher. Your amps need a certain amount of power and if they have to get that power through a smaller wire then you will have a higher amount of current. Make the wire larger and it will be able to get the power it needs without having to draw as much current. Since you are drawing just under 1000 watts total, I say you would have no problem with a 2 gauge. You could go 0 gauge if you wanted to, its up to you. Just so you know, make sure that your ground cables are the same gauge as your power cables.
Old 10-03-2011 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
I'm sure a 5-6ft run of 8ga. like you have is okay. It's when you're running from battery to the amp in the trunk (20ish feet) of all 4ga. Are you getting flicker?

yeah my interior lights flicker and the "power button" display on the amp flickers when the sub is B00MING hard. i DID NOT use the cap yet tho, i think i will on the next install...

sorry to jack your thread, OP...but this is all good information for anyone really.
Old 10-03-2011 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SharksBreath
yeah my interior lights flicker and the "power button" display on the amp flickers when the sub is B00MING hard. i DID NOT use the cap yet tho, i think i will on the next install...

sorry to jack your thread, OP...but this is all good information for anyone really.

Dont waste your money on a cap, thats not what there designed for. USE that money and buy a optima, stinger, or kinetic battery and upgrade the big 3.
Old 10-03-2011 | 02:01 PM
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^i already have the CAP...came with the amp deal.

you're telling me to buy a new car battery? my battery is brand new...

elaborate on this "big 3"...
Old 10-03-2011 | 02:11 PM
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All batteries are not created equal. Which one did you buy?

Also, the "Big 3" is an electrical upgrade in which you upgrade 3 short wires under the hood with 0 or 2 gauge wire to help out the electrical. I get no dimming with a PDX 1.1000 and MB q4.150 and I'm using 0ga. power/grounds. It's literally a few dollars more for the larger wire, it's just common sense over a cap.
Old 10-03-2011 | 02:16 PM
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^i have an interstate battery. idk...it was $75.

trunk, can you PM me more on this 'big 3'? i'd like to do that. thx man.
Old 10-03-2011 | 02:53 PM
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ironically im using 2 gauge wire for my amp ground.

I have two separate ground points for my two amps which I will be using.

Also, definitely going to get rid of the factory amp and replacing it with a matrix.

Only thing is I would have to get another line driver for the center channel and am not sure which one to purchase.
Down the road I plan on installing the OEM navi unit which as I have read. Utilizes the center channel.
Old 10-03-2011 | 03:01 PM
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Sell the Audiocontrol unit and don't buy whatever else you want. Just pick up a processor and be done with it. It'll take car of everything with many less headache moments.
Old 10-03-2011 | 11:36 PM
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http://www.google.com/#hl=en&cp=21&g...w=1366&bih=675
Old 10-04-2011 | 12:28 AM
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just for reference

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/am...uge-d_730.html

only goes up to 70A, but you get the idea.
Old 10-04-2011 | 08:42 AM
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This page has a great calculator that you can use to determine the voltage drop at the end of your power wire. This is what you need to design around.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Old 10-05-2011 | 10:10 AM
  #18  
flyromeo3's Avatar
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here's my update:

-bought some RCA end connectors. Going to make RCA ends using the signal after the OEM radio.

- will sell my LC8i and hope to use that money to supplement the purchase of a matrix unit.

- found my 2 gauge wire. I had it in a shopping bag in the back seat of my s4.

- 80 AMP circuit breaker fuse---as opposed to the 30amp one I have.
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