Just curious if dynamat makes a difference in sound quality or loudness. I'm aware it will keep the trunk from rattling which is it's main purpose but most people add the dynamat when adding the sub and don't have a before and after comparison. I've done the doors, deck, driverside footwell (failed experiment), and under the rear seat. Thinking about the trunk but I don't want to waste more money. I don't care if the trunk rattles to people outside as long as it sounds good inside.

 

i added a 12 inch alpine type r with kenwood mono amp...

only thing dynamatted is rear deck which was done by the dealer...

i put a piece of velcro under the license plate so it doesnt rattle...

i dont hear any rattle inside the car...just if all my doors and windows closed u can hear the trunk rattle a bit from the outside...

the system hits nice for 1 12inch

my old CL had 2 kappa perfects and i had to dynamat everything because the whole car would rattle...TL sounds nice...

 

I used dynamat on my trunk lid, and the rear deck. I didn't have enough to do the entire trunk, so I decided to apply the mat to the most rattle prone area, the trunk lid. It helped tremendously. The rear deck is also rattle free and sounds excellent. I don't think you have to cover the whole trunk personally, unless you are pushing some major power.

My install

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/tech14-complete-audio-installation-643839/

 

One thing I've noticed about the TL is the bass is almost as loud with the doors closed and windows rolled up as it is with the door open or the windows down. I can't hear vocals but the bass is very noticable even at low volumes.

I've also noticed that the exact same subs with the exact same amp were nearly twice as loud in my GN. The TL seems to eat up the bass on the inside. This is partially what I was hoping to fix with some dynamat in the trunk.

 

I'll let you know soon. My custom box is done and I'm picking it up tomorrow. I'm putting in a 12w6 and I dynamatted every square foot of my trunk.

 

I took out my stock sub in the rear deck and left it open. I am going to install a 6" port tube into the liner that covers the bottom of the deck in the trunk. I hope it will let a bit more of the bass through. I will let you know if I notice any change.

 

hmm. That sounds interesting. Let us know how that works. I'm in the process of reassembling and was debating whether or not to cut a hole in in the bottom cover just under the stock sub location.

 

I too am interested, please let us know how that works out! If can pics would be nice?

 

I picked up my custom sub enclosure today so I threw everything together to test operation of all the components before buttoning up the car. I installed a 3Sixty.2 so I had to take extra time to configure it for OEM integration. When I finally turned on the system this is what I looked like

Oh boy does it hit hard! I started scrambling through my CDs to find the best audio quality and began feeding them into the HU. I would never have imagined that a single 12" sub could be so loud and clear! I cranked it up to the point where my interior light began to dim and rolled up the windows and shut the door. It sounds even better when the windows are up. With the windows still rolled up, I got out and went around to the back of the car. To my surprise, there was not a single rattle anywhere aside from the license plate. I placed my hand under it and lifted it off the trunk lid until the rattle went away. There was absolutely NO rattle at a substancial volume level. I credit this to making the decision to dynamat the entire trunk, including the spare well and the trunk lid.

My components and sub compliment each other perfectly, and I am VERY HAPPY with the results for all the effort I put into this build. I will post a write-up of my component install (with pics) since it was not a straightforward, bolt on upgrade.

 

There is an easy solution to this. 60-120mil of mat based/ liquid deadener (approx 6 layers of liquid) layered with a closed foam typed deadener on top.

The combination of these two products will:

1. better insulate the cabin from outside noise such as road, wind, exhaust and engine drone.
2. adding mass to any panel lowers the resonant frequency of said panel. in turn this translates into an elimination of / total loss of all rattles.
3. A GOOD sound deadener will also have some barrier properties. In English, some of the sound that reaches the deadener will be reflected back. This is why a thick layer is is often preferred. (60-120mil)
4. A foam based deadener can either act as a barrier, or an absorber depending on its properties.

Your overall goals often dictate how much and where you apply the sound deadener. You will notice a dramatic sound quality enhancement if you treated all the doors. At the same time make sure to treat all interior plastic panels as well. (kicks, A, B, and C pillars.

Depending on how far you want to go I recommend gutting the car and deadening the floor, and firewall.

The roof is debatable for some, but for me it is a must.

To deaden the TL IMO it would take between 300-400sq ft of deadener. This is a combination between liquid, mat, open and closed foam for a complete solution.

 

everything in my car is covered...i have 3 10inch jl w6v2's vented through the elbow rest....if it wasnt covered in sound deadener it wouldnt sound tight.