Any suggestions on '08 ELS 5.1 sound system upgrades?
05-09-2011, 11:38 AM
#121
That amp will probably be birthed about 150W+ at 4 ohms and 300w+ at 2 ohms. Since you will be using the crossover, I think that 150W to the massives would be fine.
Get a set of ID CXS62. They are pretty good for silk domes:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CXS62-V-2-IMAGE-...item19bead4825
I have a set that was used or a month if you are interested - PM me.
Focal Polyglass would sound good on 150W. They have more detail than the ID would. They are super efficient and make more sound with less wattage.
FWIW and IMO, the HD 600/4 is not even as clean as the slash series. The difference was barely noticeable with the TN 52s, but with the TBE and TN53K in both of my cars, you can tell a pretty big difference.
Get a set of ID CXS62. They are pretty good for silk domes:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CXS62-V-2-IMAGE-...item19bead4825
I have a set that was used or a month if you are interested - PM me.
Focal Polyglass would sound good on 150W. They have more detail than the ID would. They are super efficient and make more sound with less wattage.
FWIW and IMO, the HD 600/4 is not even as clean as the slash series. The difference was barely noticeable with the TN 52s, but with the TBE and TN53K in both of my cars, you can tell a pretty big difference.
05-09-2011, 11:42 AM
#122
^^ Is that about as cheap as they come? Thats a little over budget.
05-09-2011, 02:16 PM
#123
Team Owner
I have never noticed a difference in sq between the 2. The hd 600/4 is a great amp..and that's a lot coming from me lol.
2 600/4's would be awesome. There honestly aren't that many amps out(that i know of) that'll give u a nice amount of power in a small package.
If space isn't an issue, there's soundstream, dls, zapco, sundown, and a bunch of others that escape me at the moment.
If space is an issue, the vibe audio litebox is a decent contender.
2 600/4's would be awesome. There honestly aren't that many amps out(that i know of) that'll give u a nice amount of power in a small package.
If space isn't an issue, there's soundstream, dls, zapco, sundown, and a bunch of others that escape me at the moment.
If space is an issue, the vibe audio litebox is a decent contender.
Depending on the IB15s, I could finally choose my next amp. I only need 250 watts each to drive them to full excursion. I could do a 900/5 and a 600/4 for the whole system. If I have to stick with the Tempest X for a while, the HD 900/5 would not push it. That setup would be perfect because every channel would be used. I hate leaving unused channels.
I'm not sure I mentioned it but my JL 6450 died. Well one channel died. Running the mids and tweeters passive on only 4 channels now.
05-09-2011, 02:29 PM
#124
Dogmatic Dinosaur
My wife wanted some new tunes in her TL after hearing mine. I bought these. I ended up with some Focal KRX2, so the ID CXS are back in the box.
They are very nice for a silk dome tweeter set... and this is from a metal tweeter guy. I do not usually care for silk domes, even high end ones. The stock crossover is also very nice with many options and settings - they crossovers are better than most. You need to consider the crossovers too since you are going to be using them.
That is as cheap as they come unless you get some used ones. They are around. They come in 2 and 4 ohm versions, so make sure and get the 2 ohm if you buy used.
I gave you my 2 choices - ID CXS for silk or Focal Polyglass for metal around the $300 range. There are lots of good comp sets out there, so be sure and get lots of opinions.
They are very nice for a silk dome tweeter set... and this is from a metal tweeter guy. I do not usually care for silk domes, even high end ones. The stock crossover is also very nice with many options and settings - they crossovers are better than most. You need to consider the crossovers too since you are going to be using them.
That is as cheap as they come unless you get some used ones. They are around. They come in 2 and 4 ohm versions, so make sure and get the 2 ohm if you buy used.
I gave you my 2 choices - ID CXS for silk or Focal Polyglass for metal around the $300 range. There are lots of good comp sets out there, so be sure and get lots of opinions.
05-09-2011, 06:16 PM
#125
Drifting
Space was a major factor in wanting the 600/4. I want to end up with only two amps for everything and it would be nice to have them under the seats. I doubt anyone will be able to steam my IB subs from the trunk area and with the amps in the cabin with seat removal necessary to get to them, I would feel a lot better about leaving the car in parking lots.
Depending on the IB15s, I could finally choose my next amp. I only need 250 watts each to drive them to full excursion. I could do a 900/5 and a 600/4 for the whole system. If I have to stick with the Tempest X for a while, the HD 900/5 would not push it. That setup would be perfect because every channel would be used. I hate leaving unused channels.
I'm not sure I mentioned it but my JL 6450 died. Well one channel died. Running the mids and tweeters passive on only 4 channels now.
Depending on the IB15s, I could finally choose my next amp. I only need 250 watts each to drive them to full excursion. I could do a 900/5 and a 600/4 for the whole system. If I have to stick with the Tempest X for a while, the HD 900/5 would not push it. That setup would be perfect because every channel would be used. I hate leaving unused channels.
I'm not sure I mentioned it but my JL 6450 died. Well one channel died. Running the mids and tweeters passive on only 4 channels now.
Rated power is 225 watts x 4 into 4 ohm or 400w x 4 into 2 ohm.
Bridged power is 450w x 2 into 8 ohm or 800w x 2 into 4 ohm.
The pairs of channels are independently bridgeable.
Two or four input configuration.Channels 1+2 feature 24dB per octave Linkwitz Riley High and Low Pass crossovers.
Channels 1+2 can run in FLAT mode (Pre-amplifiers completely bypassed), High Pass, Low Pass or Bandpass.
Channels 3+4 feature 24dB per octave Linkwitz Riley High and Low Pass crossovers.
Channels 3+4 can run in FLAT mode (Pre-amplifiers completely bypassed), High Pass, Low Pass or Bandpass.
Channels 3+4 in addition feature SUB MODE which introduces a 24dB per octave variable subsonic crossovers and a 40Hz constant Q equalizer.
DREADNOUGHT Is well suited to running front stage only 3 channel systems
Level controls accommodate input levels up to 8.0v RMS.
Pre-amplifiers utilize a fully isolated power supply for zero ground loops.
Pre-amplifiers drive the main amplifiers in a fully balanced mode.
Class D amplifiers utilize high-speed high current low gate charge MOSFETs.
Fully regulated power supply delivers power independent of battery voltage.
There are a total of thirteen regulated power supplies.
The power supply utilizes twelve 110 amp MOSFETs in a source follower configuration for maximum bandwidth.
Low ESR 105°C capacitors are used in the power supply.
Very high efficiency owing to the smart power supply.
Tiffany RCA's with Teflon inserts are used for ultimate quality and reliability.
Made in the USA
Bridged power is 450w x 2 into 8 ohm or 800w x 2 into 4 ohm.
The pairs of channels are independently bridgeable.
Two or four input configuration.Channels 1+2 feature 24dB per octave Linkwitz Riley High and Low Pass crossovers.
Channels 1+2 can run in FLAT mode (Pre-amplifiers completely bypassed), High Pass, Low Pass or Bandpass.
Channels 3+4 feature 24dB per octave Linkwitz Riley High and Low Pass crossovers.
Channels 3+4 can run in FLAT mode (Pre-amplifiers completely bypassed), High Pass, Low Pass or Bandpass.
Channels 3+4 in addition feature SUB MODE which introduces a 24dB per octave variable subsonic crossovers and a 40Hz constant Q equalizer.
DREADNOUGHT Is well suited to running front stage only 3 channel systems
Level controls accommodate input levels up to 8.0v RMS.
Pre-amplifiers utilize a fully isolated power supply for zero ground loops.
Pre-amplifiers drive the main amplifiers in a fully balanced mode.
Class D amplifiers utilize high-speed high current low gate charge MOSFETs.
Fully regulated power supply delivers power independent of battery voltage.
There are a total of thirteen regulated power supplies.
The power supply utilizes twelve 110 amp MOSFETs in a source follower configuration for maximum bandwidth.
Low ESR 105°C capacitors are used in the power supply.
Very high efficiency owing to the smart power supply.
Tiffany RCA's with Teflon inserts are used for ultimate quality and reliability.
Made in the USA
05-09-2011, 07:07 PM
#127
Hey guy's... what is the best set up for under 1000? Is it possible to stay under the cap and replace all interior speakers (dash, door, deck) no sub? Will it be a waste to add sound processor(along lines of jbl ms-8) and no amp?
05-09-2011, 09:33 PM
#128
05-09-2011, 09:37 PM
#129
My wife wanted some new tunes in her TL after hearing mine. I bought these. I ended up with some Focal KRX2, so the ID CXS are back in the box.
They are very nice for a silk dome tweeter set... and this is from a metal tweeter guy. I do not usually care for silk domes, even high end ones. The stock crossover is also very nice with many options and settings - they crossovers are better than most. You need to consider the crossovers too since you are going to be using them.
That is as cheap as they come unless you get some used ones. They are around. They come in 2 and 4 ohm versions, so make sure and get the 2 ohm if you buy used.
I gave you my 2 choices - ID CXS for silk or Focal Polyglass for metal around the $300 range. There are lots of good comp sets out there, so be sure and get lots of opinions.
They are very nice for a silk dome tweeter set... and this is from a metal tweeter guy. I do not usually care for silk domes, even high end ones. The stock crossover is also very nice with many options and settings - they crossovers are better than most. You need to consider the crossovers too since you are going to be using them.
That is as cheap as they come unless you get some used ones. They are around. They come in 2 and 4 ohm versions, so make sure and get the 2 ohm if you buy used.
I gave you my 2 choices - ID CXS for silk or Focal Polyglass for metal around the $300 range. There are lots of good comp sets out there, so be sure and get lots of opinions.
http://cgi.ebay.com/CXS62-V-2-IMAGE-...#ht_6213wt_902
The ID seem to be popular with the TL owners.
05-09-2011, 09:56 PM
#130
Drifting
You won't find them cheaper than that
So you have 2 options
Bigger amp with the massives
Smaller amp with the id's
The former would be the cheapest considering your discount
So you have 2 options
Bigger amp with the massives
Smaller amp with the id's
The former would be the cheapest considering your discount
05-10-2011, 12:20 AM
#131
Whats the next step down for ID's that will still be the best bang for the buck? And also what did you mean by the smaller amp, like a 300-2?
05-10-2011, 12:42 AM
#132
Seems like these HERTZ set is pretty popular too
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-M...ht_4698wt_1167
And also I assume this is the other ID set that would be cheaper.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/CTX65CS-Image-Dy...#ht_500wt_1156
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-M...ht_4698wt_1167
And also I assume this is the other ID set that would be cheaper.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/CTX65CS-Image-Dy...#ht_500wt_1156
05-10-2011, 09:31 AM
#134
Dogmatic Dinosaur
There are tons of Rainbow, Hertz, Focal, Morel and other FAKE sets out there. Don't ever buy from the south pacific without lots of homework. Be careful.
The CTX is a fine set. It is not as good as the CXS. If you go used, your money can buy a better set. You can browse DIY Mobile Audio, Car Audio.com, etc. for a while to find a used set of something.
If you want the massives, then get them. You won't be able to rock the midbass with tons of wattage since you will be using the crossovers, so 150W will be more than enough for the way that you are running them. Even though those are 250W RMS sets, you won't be able to tolerate the tweeters on the crossover, even at -12db, with 250W going to them. I don't see how you could get to 250W RMS on that set without a 4 channel amp and a processor. I heard a set of these last week and the silk dome on this set is not as nice as the ID to my ears (again, I usually don't like too many silk domes, so get more opinions).
This set is better than all of those, IMO, in your budget. Focal Polyglass V1:
http://cgi.ebay.com/FOCAL-165V1-POLY...item1e5d758780
There is a focal V1 set also on ebay for $150 shipped, but it is from Thailand. If you can get them to send you a serial number in an actual picture, and then confirm that number with Focal, then they would be worth buying... otherwise, they are fakes.
The CTX is a fine set. It is not as good as the CXS. If you go used, your money can buy a better set. You can browse DIY Mobile Audio, Car Audio.com, etc. for a while to find a used set of something.
If you want the massives, then get them. You won't be able to rock the midbass with tons of wattage since you will be using the crossovers, so 150W will be more than enough for the way that you are running them. Even though those are 250W RMS sets, you won't be able to tolerate the tweeters on the crossover, even at -12db, with 250W going to them. I don't see how you could get to 250W RMS on that set without a 4 channel amp and a processor. I heard a set of these last week and the silk dome on this set is not as nice as the ID to my ears (again, I usually don't like too many silk domes, so get more opinions).
This set is better than all of those, IMO, in your budget. Focal Polyglass V1:
http://cgi.ebay.com/FOCAL-165V1-POLY...item1e5d758780
There is a focal V1 set also on ebay for $150 shipped, but it is from Thailand. If you can get them to send you a serial number in an actual picture, and then confirm that number with Focal, then they would be worth buying... otherwise, they are fakes.
05-10-2011, 10:47 AM
#136
So many options, once I think I know where im leaning towards another set gets thrown in the mix. I guess I should of originally posted a poll to see what members prefer. Ughh guess back to reviews.....
05-10-2011, 11:23 AM
#137
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Reviews are only as good as the reviewer. Be careful.
If you are into strong bass and midbass, then this is where the ID and Massive sets really shine - the low end midbass on these sets are really good whereas the higher end (tweeters) and higher midbass are not as detailed as some. The Hertz and Focal sets are more musical with more detail in vocals and instruments and not quite as much low end bass - the higher end midbass is very good (lower vocals and instruments). These are the trade off in sets in your price range.
The best thing that you can do is to stop in to a shop and listen to some silk dome tweeter sets and some metal tweeter sets. See what you like. When you listen to either, don't stand right in front of them, rather between them (if facing forward) or off to the side. Some people complain about sets being too "harsh" but most of the time, they don't have them set up right (staged). They won't be pointing right at you in the car.
Any set in your price range will have it's pros and cons.
If you are into strong bass and midbass, then this is where the ID and Massive sets really shine - the low end midbass on these sets are really good whereas the higher end (tweeters) and higher midbass are not as detailed as some. The Hertz and Focal sets are more musical with more detail in vocals and instruments and not quite as much low end bass - the higher end midbass is very good (lower vocals and instruments). These are the trade off in sets in your price range.
The best thing that you can do is to stop in to a shop and listen to some silk dome tweeter sets and some metal tweeter sets. See what you like. When you listen to either, don't stand right in front of them, rather between them (if facing forward) or off to the side. Some people complain about sets being too "harsh" but most of the time, they don't have them set up right (staged). They won't be pointing right at you in the car.
Any set in your price range will have it's pros and cons.
05-10-2011, 11:40 AM
#138
Well you need to find out whether you're decision is based on budget or your particular need for Sound Quality.
Price (cheapest to most expensive):
1. ID CTX
2. Massive Audio RK6
3. Focal Polyglass
4. ID CXS
They all have different sounds. I've heard the ID tweeter can be smooth at low volume but get harsh at higher volumes. From reviews, I don't think the CTX is in the same league as the other 3. The Focals I heard were pretty damn bright, but I like a more warm silk tweeter. There's always going to be better stuff out there no matter what you get, but I thought it'd be better to go with the RK6's and spend more money on deadening/sealing. You can read other people's reviews all day long, but your ears are different. Either find a store that sells ID, Massive Audio, Focal, CDT, etc or just buy one and see if you're happy. You could sell them for $30 less than you bought them for on DIYMA and they'd be gone pretty quickly. I'll have mine in this weekend hopefully. I'm doing deadening and install starting Friday. Gonna be a helluva job but hopefully it comes out okay.
Price (cheapest to most expensive):
1. ID CTX
2. Massive Audio RK6
3. Focal Polyglass
4. ID CXS
They all have different sounds. I've heard the ID tweeter can be smooth at low volume but get harsh at higher volumes. From reviews, I don't think the CTX is in the same league as the other 3. The Focals I heard were pretty damn bright, but I like a more warm silk tweeter. There's always going to be better stuff out there no matter what you get, but I thought it'd be better to go with the RK6's and spend more money on deadening/sealing. You can read other people's reviews all day long, but your ears are different. Either find a store that sells ID, Massive Audio, Focal, CDT, etc or just buy one and see if you're happy. You could sell them for $30 less than you bought them for on DIYMA and they'd be gone pretty quickly. I'll have mine in this weekend hopefully. I'm doing deadening and install starting Friday. Gonna be a helluva job but hopefully it comes out okay.
05-10-2011, 12:42 PM
#139
Dogmatic Dinosaur
I have owned many of the sets mentioned (CTX, CSX, ESK and Polyglass... not the Massive), and have had the CXS and the Polyglass in a 3G TL.
I can assure you that none of the sets will be "bright" or "harsh" if you get them installed right (in the right location). The stock TL locations are all off-axis (not pointing directly at you) and you should be OK. If you point them right at you, cross them over wrong, or use a noisy amp, then they can sound bad... but so can anything if you do it wrong. Even VERY expensive speakers can sound bad on-axis. Remember, when listening to speakers in a shop on a board, to move to the side of them, or inbetween them to make an opinion. I think that most "harsh" or "bright" opinions of many speakers are from listening on-axis on a board somewhere.
If you are near KC, you can come by and listen to some Focals in my cars.
I can assure you that none of the sets will be "bright" or "harsh" if you get them installed right (in the right location). The stock TL locations are all off-axis (not pointing directly at you) and you should be OK. If you point them right at you, cross them over wrong, or use a noisy amp, then they can sound bad... but so can anything if you do it wrong. Even VERY expensive speakers can sound bad on-axis. Remember, when listening to speakers in a shop on a board, to move to the side of them, or inbetween them to make an opinion. I think that most "harsh" or "bright" opinions of many speakers are from listening on-axis on a board somewhere.
If you are near KC, you can come by and listen to some Focals in my cars.
05-10-2011, 01:02 PM
#140
So for these RK6 the Rockford fosgae t-400-2 or t-400-4 would be underpowering them to the point of it not being worth it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Massive-RK6-...ht_1199wt_1104
The focals, would you say jda123 are better than the ID's you've heard in your past? Since not doing a sub in the near future i wouldn't mind some better mid-bass in the 6.5.
I've only had experience with alpine type r components I installed in my Trans Am about 5 years ago(tweeter sound was,ok). As for my other cars grand cheroke with upgraded infinity components (actually sounded really good w/ aftermarket HU). My last car had the thx upgrade with NAV and never really felt the need to change anything minus a L7.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Massive-RK6-...ht_1199wt_1104
The focals, would you say jda123 are better than the ID's you've heard in your past? Since not doing a sub in the near future i wouldn't mind some better mid-bass in the 6.5.
I've only had experience with alpine type r components I installed in my Trans Am about 5 years ago(tweeter sound was,ok). As for my other cars grand cheroke with upgraded infinity components (actually sounded really good w/ aftermarket HU). My last car had the thx upgrade with NAV and never really felt the need to change anything minus a L7.
05-10-2011, 02:34 PM
#142
I have owned many of the sets mentioned (CTX, CSX, ESK and Polyglass... not the Massive), and have had the CXS and the Polyglass in a 3G TL.
I can assure you that none of the sets will be "bright" or "harsh" if you get them installed right (in the right location). The stock TL locations are all off-axis (not pointing directly at you) and you should be OK. If you point them right at you, cross them over wrong, or use a noisy amp, then they can sound bad... but so can anything if you do it wrong. Even VERY expensive speakers can sound bad on-axis. Remember, when listening to speakers in a shop on a board, to move to the side of them, or inbetween them to make an opinion. I think that most "harsh" or "bright" opinions of many speakers are from listening on-axis on a board somewhere.
If you are near KC, you can come by and listen to some Focals in my cars.
I can assure you that none of the sets will be "bright" or "harsh" if you get them installed right (in the right location). The stock TL locations are all off-axis (not pointing directly at you) and you should be OK. If you point them right at you, cross them over wrong, or use a noisy amp, then they can sound bad... but so can anything if you do it wrong. Even VERY expensive speakers can sound bad on-axis. Remember, when listening to speakers in a shop on a board, to move to the side of them, or inbetween them to make an opinion. I think that most "harsh" or "bright" opinions of many speakers are from listening on-axis on a board somewhere.
If you are near KC, you can come by and listen to some Focals in my cars.
So for these RK6 the Rockford fosgae t-400-2 or t-400-4 would be underpowering them to the point of it not being worth it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Massive-RK6-...ht_1199wt_1104
The focals, would you say jda123 are better than the ID's you've heard in your past? Since not doing a sub in the near future i wouldn't mind some better mid-bass in the 6.5.
I've only had experience with alpine type r components I installed in my Trans Am about 5 years ago(tweeter sound was,ok). As for my other cars grand cheroke with upgraded infinity components (actually sounded really good w/ aftermarket HU). My last car had the thx upgrade with NAV and never really felt the need to change anything minus a L7.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Massive-RK6-...ht_1199wt_1104
The focals, would you say jda123 are better than the ID's you've heard in your past? Since not doing a sub in the near future i wouldn't mind some better mid-bass in the 6.5.
I've only had experience with alpine type r components I installed in my Trans Am about 5 years ago(tweeter sound was,ok). As for my other cars grand cheroke with upgraded infinity components (actually sounded really good w/ aftermarket HU). My last car had the thx upgrade with NAV and never really felt the need to change anything minus a L7.
I hear someone knocking! Score!! My deadener is here
05-10-2011, 02:34 PM
#143
Banned
. Just good deep/smooth midbass.
05-10-2011, 02:49 PM
#144
Drifting
05-10-2011, 04:17 PM
#145
Yeah...probably shouldn't have said bright. My bad. Being off axis will tone them down quite a bit. Install is everything though so I always say, try them multiple ways until you find what you're looking for. I wish I was closer to KC, I'd like to have a listen.
The type-r and below components are pretty crappy, and the Infinty tweets are pretty damn bright like Eggy said. If you like those then you'd like the Focal. Probably the "brightest" tweet of all of them but still not Infinity bright. I'd scratch the t400-2 as it's just not much power. Go with the t600-2 or t400-4(bridged). You'll be able to run anything ya get just fine with those.
The type-r and below components are pretty crappy, and the Infinty tweets are pretty damn bright like Eggy said. If you like those then you'd like the Focal. Probably the "brightest" tweet of all of them but still not Infinity bright. I'd scratch the t400-2 as it's just not much power. Go with the t600-2 or t400-4(bridged). You'll be able to run anything ya get just fine with those.
05-10-2011, 04:37 PM
#146
Dogmatic Dinosaur
The Focals will be fine with about 100-125 watts. They are more efficient than the others listed and will make more sound with less wattage.
You can run the ID CTX or CSX off of 125-150 watts too. Same with the ESK.
The t400-2 will be fine with any of these sets using the crossover. None of these tweeters are good enough to put 200W to the set through the stock crossover, even at -6 or -12db, for very long.
You can run the ID CTX or CSX off of 125-150 watts too. Same with the ESK.
The t400-2 will be fine with any of these sets using the crossover. None of these tweeters are good enough to put 200W to the set through the stock crossover, even at -6 or -12db, for very long.
05-10-2011, 05:18 PM
#148
Are those focals i posted from ebay on my last post about the best price you can find new ($300)? Seems like most of you can say that there a good bang for the buck. I've read positive things on them on diym btw as well.
05-10-2011, 05:21 PM
#149
Drifting
The Focals will be fine with about 100-125 watts. They are more efficient than the others listed and will make more sound with less wattage.
You can run the ID CTX or CSX off of 125-150 watts too. Same with the ESK.
The t400-2 will be fine with any of these sets using the crossover. None of these tweeters are good enough to put 200W to the set through the stock crossover, even at -6 or -12db, for very long.
You can run the ID CTX or CSX off of 125-150 watts too. Same with the ESK.
The t400-2 will be fine with any of these sets using the crossover. None of these tweeters are good enough to put 200W to the set through the stock crossover, even at -6 or -12db, for very long.
05-10-2011, 10:08 PM
#150
Dogmatic Dinosaur
$300 for a set of Polyglass is very good. The V3 (new ones) are $500 or more. The Polyglass V1 are better than all of the new line of Polyglass except for the V3, IMO... so they are a good buy. They are better than the new VBs. Not gonna be any cheaper unless you go used. FWIW, Polyglass are beyond entry level. Some (most) brands don't even offer a high end that sound as good as the Polyglass do.
I get the headroom thing, but what has illadelph ever posted that leads you to believe that headroom is a concern? This whole tread is about playing 'em as you get 'em.
I get the headroom thing, but what has illadelph ever posted that leads you to believe that headroom is a concern?
This whole tread is about playing 'em as you get 'em.
05-10-2011, 10:30 PM
#152
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Headroom is a lot of the suggestions that people have made in this thread - extra wattage, extra channels, etc. It is not necessary, but very nice and usually cheaper to add on now than to rebuy later.
05-10-2011, 10:44 PM
#153
Oh gotcha, well either way I go it seems like the RF t-400-2 or t400-4 will work for either situation. I just want to get stuff ordered. As far as i know im going to need....
1. Sound deadner (how much have you guys ordered or ran just for the two doors?)
2. 3/4 MDF rings on ebay
3. Components/amp
As far as wiring my installer will be all set there. Im going to read more install threads about modding the plastic on doors to get the drivers to fit and all.
1. Sound deadner (how much have you guys ordered or ran just for the two doors?)
2. 3/4 MDF rings on ebay
3. Components/amp
As far as wiring my installer will be all set there. Im going to read more install threads about modding the plastic on doors to get the drivers to fit and all.
05-11-2011, 09:18 AM
#154
Dogmatic Dinosaur
4 square feet of deadener will do each door. I used something (hushmat maybe? I forgot) that was 12x24 inches per sheet and it took 2 sheets each.
The plastic on the door panels will not need to be changed. Depending on the set that you buy, 3/4" rings might not be enough to keep from enlarging the hole for the driver. 3/4" is enough depth-wise. If you end up with the Polyglass or the CXS, then your installer will need to cut just a bit of metal - no biggie for a good installer. Most good/decent 6.5" drivers will require the metal to be cut.
The plastic on the door panels will not need to be changed. Depending on the set that you buy, 3/4" rings might not be enough to keep from enlarging the hole for the driver. 3/4" is enough depth-wise. If you end up with the Polyglass or the CXS, then your installer will need to cut just a bit of metal - no biggie for a good installer. Most good/decent 6.5" drivers will require the metal to be cut.
05-11-2011, 09:19 AM
#155
Drifting
$300 for a set of Polyglass is very good. The V3 (new ones) are $500 or more. The Polyglass V1 are better than all of the new line of Polyglass except for the V3, IMO... so they are a good buy. They are better than the new VBs. Not gonna be any cheaper unless you go used. FWIW, Polyglass are beyond entry level. Some (most) brands don't even offer a high end that sound as good as the Polyglass do.
I get the headroom thing, but what has illadelph ever posted that leads you to believe that headroom is a concern? This whole tread is about playing 'em as you get 'em.
I get the headroom thing, but what has illadelph ever posted that leads you to believe that headroom is a concern?
This whole tread is about playing 'em as you get 'em.I still feel that he should go for the extra power "if" his budget allows for it.
05-11-2011, 10:51 AM
#156
Yeah unfortunately the t-400 is about as much as I want to spend on an amp. It seems like MANY other people doing this front stage are using an even smaller amp that I plan on using.
05-11-2011, 03:07 PM
#157
Oh gotcha, well either way I go it seems like the RF t-400-2 or t400-4 will work for either situation. I just want to get stuff ordered. As far as i know im going to need....
I would definitely go with the t400-4 if you can
1. Sound deadner (how much have you guys ordered or ran just for the two doors?)
Here's my deadening products (I'm fully deadening/sealing doors and doing a little bit of the trunk deadening):
26 CLD Tiles @ 2.45 = $63.70
1 54"X41" sheet MLV @ 29.62 = 29.62
2 sheets 1/8" CCF @ 14.95 = 29.90
3 Velcro Strips, adh. 2 sides, 2-pack @ 3.25 = 9.75
1 8 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement @ 8.50 = 8.50
Sub Total: $141.47
Shipping: 28.01
Total: $169.48
Don (owner Sound Deadener Showdown) recommended 7 CLD tiles per door (2 on inner skin/5 on outter). This leaves me 12 tiles for the trunk/trunk lid area. I don't have too many rattles back there from the inside so I should be okay. If not, i'll order more no big deal. Don is a great guy to work with, will help you and reply back to e-mails within the day, etc. SDS and Second Skin are the 2 best products on the market for this job. Basically you put down the CLD tiles, then the CCF, then the MLV. That's deadening, sound barriers, etc and will hopefully sound amazing when all said and done (this weekend!).
2. 3/4 MDF rings on ebay
I bought my rings, which came in today actually, from this guy. He's got plenty of rings but he custom made rings for the Massive RK6 guys to fit around the magnet. They're 1" MDF with 1'4" recessed, and they fit in there PERFECTLY. Definitely professionally quality, if that's possible with MDF rings lol. Shoot him and e-mail and tell him what ya need and he'll make them and send them out, $20 shipped.
3. Components/amp
As far as wiring my installer will be all set there. Im going to read more install threads about modding the plastic on doors to get the drivers to fit and all.
Shouldn't need to cut the plastic around the speaker on the door panel. If you do, just smooth it away until it's near flush. That's probably what I'm doing just because I don't want to worry about my speakers hitting a sharp edge on high excursion.
You'll most likely have to cut the metal ring in the actual panel though, like JDA stated. Not very hard and shouldn't take but a few minutes. You might even be able to make a few cuts (every 1" or so) around the ring and just bend it back. Lame....but it would work the same if you didn't have the tools.
I would definitely go with the t400-4 if you can
1. Sound deadner (how much have you guys ordered or ran just for the two doors?)
Here's my deadening products (I'm fully deadening/sealing doors and doing a little bit of the trunk deadening):
26 CLD Tiles @ 2.45 = $63.70
1 54"X41" sheet MLV @ 29.62 = 29.62
2 sheets 1/8" CCF @ 14.95 = 29.90
3 Velcro Strips, adh. 2 sides, 2-pack @ 3.25 = 9.75
1 8 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement @ 8.50 = 8.50
Sub Total: $141.47
Shipping: 28.01
Total: $169.48
Don (owner Sound Deadener Showdown) recommended 7 CLD tiles per door (2 on inner skin/5 on outter). This leaves me 12 tiles for the trunk/trunk lid area. I don't have too many rattles back there from the inside so I should be okay. If not, i'll order more no big deal. Don is a great guy to work with, will help you and reply back to e-mails within the day, etc. SDS and Second Skin are the 2 best products on the market for this job. Basically you put down the CLD tiles, then the CCF, then the MLV. That's deadening, sound barriers, etc and will hopefully sound amazing when all said and done (this weekend!).
2. 3/4 MDF rings on ebay
I bought my rings, which came in today actually, from this guy. He's got plenty of rings but he custom made rings for the Massive RK6 guys to fit around the magnet. They're 1" MDF with 1'4" recessed, and they fit in there PERFECTLY. Definitely professionally quality, if that's possible with MDF rings lol. Shoot him and e-mail and tell him what ya need and he'll make them and send them out, $20 shipped.
3. Components/amp
As far as wiring my installer will be all set there. Im going to read more install threads about modding the plastic on doors to get the drivers to fit and all.
Shouldn't need to cut the plastic around the speaker on the door panel. If you do, just smooth it away until it's near flush. That's probably what I'm doing just because I don't want to worry about my speakers hitting a sharp edge on high excursion.
You'll most likely have to cut the metal ring in the actual panel though, like JDA stated. Not very hard and shouldn't take but a few minutes. You might even be able to make a few cuts (every 1" or so) around the ring and just bend it back. Lame....but it would work the same if you didn't have the tools.
05-11-2011, 03:35 PM
#158
05-11-2011, 08:12 PM
#159
Dogmatic Dinosaur
I apologize for the bad photo, but here is a shot if the birth sheet on my t400-4. In case you cannot read it, it says 246 at 4 ohms bridged - plenty o' power.
