Any suggestions on '08 ELS 5.1 sound system upgrades?
04-23-2011, 02:16 PM
#41
Drifting
Skar audio is having a presale on the vvx 10's
Cool little sql sub
The much anticipated SKAR VVX-10 Presale is now open for a short time.
The shipment is due in May 24-25th (we aren't expecting any delays, but it is possible - keep that in mind when preordering)
MSRP - $169.99
Pre-Order Price - $119.99 *Free Shipping on any amount in the continental 48 US States*
Available in both D2 and D4 Coils.
Email is the fastest way to place an order or ask questions
kevin@skaraudio.com
If you want to make a direct order, the above email is also my paypal
Regards,
Kevin
The shipment is due in May 24-25th (we aren't expecting any delays, but it is possible - keep that in mind when preordering)
MSRP - $169.99
Pre-Order Price - $119.99 *Free Shipping on any amount in the continental 48 US States*
Available in both D2 and D4 Coils.
Email is the fastest way to place an order or ask questions
kevin@skaraudio.com
If you want to make a direct order, the above email is also my paypal
Regards,
Kevin
Cool little sql sub
04-23-2011, 03:47 PM
#42
mmm fun! That looks like a nice beefy 10
OP- Once you upgrade your front components, you're going to have to deaden the door to get any midbass whatsoever. So factor in about $75-150 for deadening. Without proper installing and deadening, any speaker will sound way below its potential and you'd just be wasting money. Here are a few <$300 components that are the talk right now:
1. Massive RK6
2. Image Dynamics ctx65cs
3. Hertz ESK-165
4. HAT Imagine
5. CDT EF-61FG
6. DLS R6A
7. Alpine SPX-17REF
8. Boston Acoustics SR60
9. Pioneer PRS720
10. Focals...don't know much about each model though
OP- Once you upgrade your front components, you're going to have to deaden the door to get any midbass whatsoever. So factor in about $75-150 for deadening. Without proper installing and deadening, any speaker will sound way below its potential and you'd just be wasting money. Here are a few <$300 components that are the talk right now:
1. Massive RK6
2. Image Dynamics ctx65cs
3. Hertz ESK-165
4. HAT Imagine
5. CDT EF-61FG
6. DLS R6A
7. Alpine SPX-17REF
8. Boston Acoustics SR60
9. Pioneer PRS720
10. Focals...don't know much about each model though
04-23-2011, 04:11 PM
#43
Team Owner
04-24-2011, 01:06 PM
#44
What is lose if I add front components? is the 5.1 gone after adding a different amp to the equation? I find 40 max volume not really enough for me. That and an all-around better sound is what I am looking for, all while keeping the stock head-unit.
04-24-2011, 02:09 PM
#46
Banned
He has 08 so he'd still get the simulated 5.1 from the Dolby II. He picks up the car today so he doesnt even know how the system sounded before nhe made this thread or what he was getting himself into.
mmm fun! That looks like a nice beefy 10
OP- Once you upgrade your front components, you're going to have to deaden the door to get any midbass whatsoever. So factor in about $75-150 for deadening. Without proper installing and deadening, any speaker will sound way below its potential and you'd just be wasting money. Here are a few <$300 components that are the talk right now:
1. Massive RK6
2. Image Dynamics ctx65cs
3. Hertz ESK-165
4. HAT Imagine
5. CDT EF-61FG
6. DLS R6A
7. Alpine SPX-17REF
8. Boston Acoustics SR60
9. Pioneer PRS720
10. Focals...don't know much about each model though
OP- Once you upgrade your front components, you're going to have to deaden the door to get any midbass whatsoever. So factor in about $75-150 for deadening. Without proper installing and deadening, any speaker will sound way below its potential and you'd just be wasting money. Here are a few <$300 components that are the talk right now:
1. Massive RK6
2. Image Dynamics ctx65cs
3. Hertz ESK-165
4. HAT Imagine
5. CDT EF-61FG
6. DLS R6A
7. Alpine SPX-17REF
8. Boston Acoustics SR60
9. Pioneer PRS720
10. Focals...don't know much about each model though
04-24-2011, 08:05 PM
#48
Exactly what I told him. Adding speakers and bypassing amps isn't an inexpensive thing. Speakers, amps, dynamat, amp kit's & install will take you way over the money he's looking to spend.[/QUOTE]
I have an installer and hook-ups for audio equipment and if I have to go over my budget its not a problem, really. But thanks for chiming in, i'm not here to get in arguements so please keep your criticism out of the thread.
I have an installer and hook-ups for audio equipment and if I have to go over my budget its not a problem, really. But thanks for chiming in, i'm not here to get in arguements so please keep your criticism out of the thread.
04-24-2011, 08:07 PM
#49
^^^
You also told me to buy $79 front components from an online website (in which your putting in your car), that doesn't really compare to the speaker choices listed above. But again, thanks.
You also told me to buy $79 front components from an online website (in which your putting in your car), that doesn't really compare to the speaker choices listed above. But again, thanks.
04-24-2011, 08:53 PM
#51
04-24-2011, 11:45 PM
#55
Banned
I told him he'd need to go with a processor if adding amps which is then when he changed his mind about going the amp route. Thats when i offered the idea of doing infinity Reference or Kappas because you WILL need a processor. My last car (08 Accord EX-L Navi) had all Memphis M-class speakers with Kicker C8 replacing the stock sub in same location with amps and Audio Control LC7 processor.
For thye record EGG. This kid wants to run a 2 channel amp running components while also using stock namp to continuing to give power to rears and center. This is a shitty set-up vs changing all the speakers and running a 4chl amp. He quoted that as going over budget...lol. He's gotta pay to play...lol.
Last edited by ParaSurfer1979; 04-24-2011 at 11:49 PM.
04-25-2011, 09:49 AM
#56
I'd go with new RF amps if you can get them that cheap. Post up which one's you can get and for what price first. ...just to make sure you're still getting a good deal and what you need!
What's your overall budget? I know you said 200-300 on front comps would be okay. But if you can give us an overall idea we can pretty much piece together a whole system together for ya
Parasurfer- About running 4 new speakers and getting a 4 channel rather than just doing fronts off a 2-channel, I'd rather do the later of the 2. I personally think running a $350 front soundstage is better than $200 fronts and $150 rears. Music should come from in front of you
When I install my RK6's I'm just unhooking the rears, or fading everything to the front...not sure if fading everything to the front will take away from the sub though? (anyone know?)
What's your overall budget? I know you said 200-300 on front comps would be okay. But if you can give us an overall idea we can pretty much piece together a whole system together for ya
Parasurfer- About running 4 new speakers and getting a 4 channel rather than just doing fronts off a 2-channel, I'd rather do the later of the 2. I personally think running a $350 front soundstage is better than $200 fronts and $150 rears. Music should come from in front of you
When I install my RK6's I'm just unhooking the rears, or fading everything to the front...not sure if fading everything to the front will take away from the sub though? (anyone know?)
Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 04-25-2011 at 09:53 AM.
04-25-2011, 10:27 AM
#57
Dogmatic Dinosaur
You need to keep the fade at least 1 step back from full front, or else it will shut off the sub. My guess is that you will want some rear fill, so don't unhook them until you are sure.
I am too confused with the recaps or some IMs with the "i told him" and the "you said" crap, so I am out on the rest of this. Get the RF stuff if you want - the price is good enough. The RF comps are considerably better IMO than infinity reference and a million times better than the stock. You need about 4 square feet of deadener for each door, so budget in that $40 bucks, or so - it is well worth it.
I am too confused with the recaps or some IMs with the "i told him" and the "you said" crap, so I am out on the rest of this. Get the RF stuff if you want - the price is good enough. The RF comps are considerably better IMO than infinity reference and a million times better than the stock. You need about 4 square feet of deadener for each door, so budget in that $40 bucks, or so - it is well worth it.
04-25-2011, 10:44 AM
#58
You need to keep the fade at least 1 step back from full front, or else it will shut off the sub. My guess is that you will want some rear fill, so don't unhook them until you are sure.
I am too confused with the recaps or some IMs with the "i told him" and the "you said" crap, so I am out on the rest of this. Get the RF stuff if you want - the price is good enough. The RF comps are considerably better IMO than infinity reference and a million times better than the stock. You need about 4 square feet of deadener for each door, so budget in that $40 bucks, or so - it is well worth it.
I am too confused with the recaps or some IMs with the "i told him" and the "you said" crap, so I am out on the rest of this. Get the RF stuff if you want - the price is good enough. The RF comps are considerably better IMO than infinity reference and a million times better than the stock. You need about 4 square feet of deadener for each door, so budget in that $40 bucks, or so - it is well worth it.
Btw my budget is flexible. After i get some numbers on the processor and amp im going to go from there. As most of you say the processor is VERY important i'm going to say its a must then with keeping everything else stock and trying to make everything work together as best as possible.
04-25-2011, 11:14 AM
#59
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Without model numbers, I am going to assume the 200-2 is the new P200-2 amp.
The P200-2 is a little light for 4 ohm components at 50W. It is fine for 2 ohm components at 100W. If you get it, get 2 ohm components.
I would rather see you get a T400-4. It is 100W at 2 ohms for the fronts and probably 400+W at 2 ohms bridged a little bit later on down the road for a subwoofer (and it will probably do closer to 450-475w). It is 60W at 4 ohms, but mine birthed around 75w. If I remember, I can post the sheet when I get back home.
The main differences here are:
1). 4 channels vs. 2, so you are set for a subwoofer later on (which you will want eventually).
2). The T400.4 is 2 ohm stable when bridged for twice the power to a sub.
3). The T series are WAY better amps than the P series - less power needed to run, less musical distortion and less heat.
The T400-4 are $219 new & shipped on ebay. I am running one in my olds powering a set of focal components in the front and a little Sundown SA8 in the trunk at 2 ohms. It is a nice amp that puts out about 460W at 2 ohms bridged on the rear channels.
This is a bit technical, but since it is 2 ohm stable when bridged, that means that it is 1 ohm stable normally. Usually speaking, 1 ohm amps are very reliable and sound good when used at 2 or 4 ohms since they don't get too hot for the individual resistors, capacitors, transistors, etc. This is usually a sign of a well built, good quality amp.
Spend the extra hundy and get a better component amp now, and be set for a sub later.
The P200-2 is a little light for 4 ohm components at 50W. It is fine for 2 ohm components at 100W. If you get it, get 2 ohm components.
I would rather see you get a T400-4. It is 100W at 2 ohms for the fronts and probably 400+W at 2 ohms bridged a little bit later on down the road for a subwoofer (and it will probably do closer to 450-475w). It is 60W at 4 ohms, but mine birthed around 75w. If I remember, I can post the sheet when I get back home.
The main differences here are:
1). 4 channels vs. 2, so you are set for a subwoofer later on (which you will want eventually).
2). The T400.4 is 2 ohm stable when bridged for twice the power to a sub.
3). The T series are WAY better amps than the P series - less power needed to run, less musical distortion and less heat.
The T400-4 are $219 new & shipped on ebay. I am running one in my olds powering a set of focal components in the front and a little Sundown SA8 in the trunk at 2 ohms. It is a nice amp that puts out about 460W at 2 ohms bridged on the rear channels.
This is a bit technical, but since it is 2 ohm stable when bridged, that means that it is 1 ohm stable normally. Usually speaking, 1 ohm amps are very reliable and sound good when used at 2 or 4 ohms since they don't get too hot for the individual resistors, capacitors, transistors, etc. This is usually a sign of a well built, good quality amp.
Spend the extra hundy and get a better component amp now, and be set for a sub later.
04-25-2011, 04:45 PM
#61
Without model numbers, I am going to assume the 200-2 is the new P200-2 amp.
The P200-2 is a little light for 4 ohm components at 50W. It is fine for 2 ohm components at 100W. If you get it, get 2 ohm components.
I would rather see you get a T400-4. It is 100W at 2 ohms for the fronts and probably 400+W at 2 ohms bridged a little bit later on down the road for a subwoofer (and it will probably do closer to 450-475w). It is 60W at 4 ohms, but mine birthed around 75w. If I remember, I can post the sheet when I get back home.
The main differences here are:
1). 4 channels vs. 2, so you are set for a subwoofer later on (which you will want eventually).
2). The T400.4 is 2 ohm stable when bridged for twice the power to a sub.
3). The T series are WAY better amps than the P series - less power needed to run, less musical distortion and less heat.
The T400-4 are $219 new & shipped on ebay. I am running one in my olds powering a set of focal components in the front and a little Sundown SA8 in the trunk at 2 ohms. It is a nice amp that puts out about 460W at 2 ohms bridged on the rear channels.
This is a bit technical, but since it is 2 ohm stable when bridged, that means that it is 1 ohm stable normally. Usually speaking, 1 ohm amps are very reliable and sound good when used at 2 or 4 ohms since they don't get too hot for the individual resistors, capacitors, transistors, etc. This is usually a sign of a well built, good quality amp.
Spend the extra hundy and get a better component amp now, and be set for a sub later.
The P200-2 is a little light for 4 ohm components at 50W. It is fine for 2 ohm components at 100W. If you get it, get 2 ohm components.
I would rather see you get a T400-4. It is 100W at 2 ohms for the fronts and probably 400+W at 2 ohms bridged a little bit later on down the road for a subwoofer (and it will probably do closer to 450-475w). It is 60W at 4 ohms, but mine birthed around 75w. If I remember, I can post the sheet when I get back home.
The main differences here are:
1). 4 channels vs. 2, so you are set for a subwoofer later on (which you will want eventually).
2). The T400.4 is 2 ohm stable when bridged for twice the power to a sub.
3). The T series are WAY better amps than the P series - less power needed to run, less musical distortion and less heat.
The T400-4 are $219 new & shipped on ebay. I am running one in my olds powering a set of focal components in the front and a little Sundown SA8 in the trunk at 2 ohms. It is a nice amp that puts out about 460W at 2 ohms bridged on the rear channels.
This is a bit technical, but since it is 2 ohm stable when bridged, that means that it is 1 ohm stable normally. Usually speaking, 1 ohm amps are very reliable and sound good when used at 2 or 4 ohms since they don't get too hot for the individual resistors, capacitors, transistors, etc. This is usually a sign of a well built, good quality amp.
Spend the extra hundy and get a better component amp now, and be set for a sub later.
04-25-2011, 04:50 PM
#62
Banned
Without model numbers, I am going to assume the 200-2 is the new P200-2 amp.
The P200-2 is a little light for 4 ohm components at 50W. It is fine for 2 ohm components at 100W. If you get it, get 2 ohm components.
I would rather see you get a T400-4. It is 100W at 2 ohms for the fronts and probably 400+W at 2 ohms bridged a little bit later on down the road for a subwoofer (and it will probably do closer to 450-475w). It is 60W at 4 ohms, but mine birthed around 75w. If I remember, I can post the sheet when I get back home.
The main differences here are:
1). 4 channels vs. 2, so you are set for a subwoofer later on (which you will want eventually).
2). The T400.4 is 2 ohm stable when bridged for twice the power to a sub.
3). The T series are WAY better amps than the P series - less power needed to run, less musical distortion and less heat.
The T400-4 are $219 new & shipped on ebay. I am running one in my olds powering a set of focal components in the front and a little Sundown SA8 in the trunk at 2 ohms. It is a nice amp that puts out about 460W at 2 ohms bridged on the rear channels.
This is a bit technical, but since it is 2 ohm stable when bridged, that means that it is 1 ohm stable normally. Usually speaking, 1 ohm amps are very reliable and sound good when used at 2 or 4 ohms since they don't get too hot for the individual resistors, capacitors, transistors, etc. This is usually a sign of a well built, good quality amp.
Spend the extra hundy and get a better component amp now, and be set for a sub later.
The P200-2 is a little light for 4 ohm components at 50W. It is fine for 2 ohm components at 100W. If you get it, get 2 ohm components.
I would rather see you get a T400-4. It is 100W at 2 ohms for the fronts and probably 400+W at 2 ohms bridged a little bit later on down the road for a subwoofer (and it will probably do closer to 450-475w). It is 60W at 4 ohms, but mine birthed around 75w. If I remember, I can post the sheet when I get back home.
The main differences here are:
1). 4 channels vs. 2, so you are set for a subwoofer later on (which you will want eventually).
2). The T400.4 is 2 ohm stable when bridged for twice the power to a sub.
3). The T series are WAY better amps than the P series - less power needed to run, less musical distortion and less heat.
The T400-4 are $219 new & shipped on ebay. I am running one in my olds powering a set of focal components in the front and a little Sundown SA8 in the trunk at 2 ohms. It is a nice amp that puts out about 460W at 2 ohms bridged on the rear channels.
This is a bit technical, but since it is 2 ohm stable when bridged, that means that it is 1 ohm stable normally. Usually speaking, 1 ohm amps are very reliable and sound good when used at 2 or 4 ohms since they don't get too hot for the individual resistors, capacitors, transistors, etc. This is usually a sign of a well built, good quality amp.
Spend the extra hundy and get a better component amp now, and be set for a sub later.
04-25-2011, 04:56 PM
#63
Honestly I have had multiple sub setups in all my cars, but right now all i want to do is front components. So im not too worried about the sub amp right now. Would a good in-between be a 300-4 or 300-2? Tomorow I am getting prices for ALL this RF stuff from my guy so i'll have an idea of how cheap i can get it.
04-25-2011, 04:58 PM
#64
Dogmatic Dinosaur
No, that is not exactly what I told him. I would likely never recommend Infinity speakers of any kind to anybody.
illadelph - if you are certain that you will never want a sub or rear speakers, then go ahead with a 2 channel. I will reiterate our concerns that a T series is worth the little bit of extra money over a P series. Also, check all of these guy's prices against eBay for a sanity check. If you are uncertain about a sub some day, then get the 4 - the extra 2 channels are pennies compared an additional amp down the road.
Good luck.
illadelph - if you are certain that you will never want a sub or rear speakers, then go ahead with a 2 channel. I will reiterate our concerns that a T series is worth the little bit of extra money over a P series. Also, check all of these guy's prices against eBay for a sanity check. If you are uncertain about a sub some day, then get the 4 - the extra 2 channels are pennies compared an additional amp down the road.
Good luck.
04-25-2011, 05:01 PM
#65
Banned
No, that is not exactly what I told him. I would likely never recommend Infinity speakers of any kind to anybody.
illadelph - if you are certain that you will never want a sub or rear speakers, then go ahead with a 2 channel. I will reiterate our concerns that a T series is worth the little bit of extra money over a P series. Also, check all of these guy's prices against eBay for a sanity check. If you are uncertain about a sub some day, then get the 4 - the extra 2 channels are pennies compared an additional amp down the road.
Good luck.
illadelph - if you are certain that you will never want a sub or rear speakers, then go ahead with a 2 channel. I will reiterate our concerns that a T series is worth the little bit of extra money over a P series. Also, check all of these guy's prices against eBay for a sanity check. If you are uncertain about a sub some day, then get the 4 - the extra 2 channels are pennies compared an additional amp down the road.
Good luck.
04-25-2011, 05:06 PM
#66
Drifting
04-25-2011, 05:19 PM
#67
Banned
04-25-2011, 05:45 PM
#70
No, that is not exactly what I told him. I would likely never recommend Infinity speakers of any kind to anybody.
illadelph - if you are certain that you will never want a sub or rear speakers, then go ahead with a 2 channel. I will reiterate our concerns that a T series is worth the little bit of extra money over a P series. Also, check all of these guy's prices against eBay for a sanity check. If you are uncertain about a sub some day, then get the 4 - the extra 2 channels are pennies compared an additional amp down the road.
Good luck.
illadelph - if you are certain that you will never want a sub or rear speakers, then go ahead with a 2 channel. I will reiterate our concerns that a T series is worth the little bit of extra money over a P series. Also, check all of these guy's prices against eBay for a sanity check. If you are uncertain about a sub some day, then get the 4 - the extra 2 channels are pennies compared an additional amp down the road.
Good luck.
04-25-2011, 07:10 PM
#73
Drifting
04-25-2011, 07:11 PM
#74
04-25-2011, 07:11 PM
#75
Banned
04-25-2011, 07:14 PM
#76
Banned
04-25-2011, 07:41 PM
#77
Team Owner
This is getting a little weird.....
Back on topic, I highly recommend those IDs. In my limited experience, just about every model ID will compete with comps costing a bit more. They have good midbass and the tweeters are detailed but not harsh. I've heard the set in question in "Neel's" sound comp TL, well the midbass anyway (he had horns) and it sounded great and with more power than I ever imagined they would take.
I'm thinking about selling my CTX-65 set. They were going in the rear but I might take a different route. I'll sell them very cheap, maybe $50 because I had to take the back off of one of the tweeters. It's fully functional but it needs to go under the factory grills since it's now ugly.
Back on topic, I highly recommend those IDs. In my limited experience, just about every model ID will compete with comps costing a bit more. They have good midbass and the tweeters are detailed but not harsh. I've heard the set in question in "Neel's" sound comp TL, well the midbass anyway (he had horns) and it sounded great and with more power than I ever imagined they would take.
I'm thinking about selling my CTX-65 set. They were going in the rear but I might take a different route. I'll sell them very cheap, maybe $50 because I had to take the back off of one of the tweeters. It's fully functional but it needs to go under the factory grills since it's now ugly.
04-25-2011, 07:44 PM
#79
This is getting a little weird.....
Back on topic, I highly recommend those IDs. In my limited experience, just about every model ID will compete with comps costing a bit more. They have good midbass and the tweeters are detailed but not harsh. I've heard the set in question in "Neel's" sound comp TL, well the midbass anyway (he had horns) and it sounded great and with more power than I ever imagined they would take.
I'm thinking about selling my CTX-65 set. They were going in the rear but I might take a different route. I'll sell them very cheap, maybe $50 because I had to take the back off of one of the tweeters. It's fully functional but it needs to go under the factory grills since it's now ugly.
Back on topic, I highly recommend those IDs. In my limited experience, just about every model ID will compete with comps costing a bit more. They have good midbass and the tweeters are detailed but not harsh. I've heard the set in question in "Neel's" sound comp TL, well the midbass anyway (he had horns) and it sounded great and with more power than I ever imagined they would take.
I'm thinking about selling my CTX-65 set. They were going in the rear but I might take a different route. I'll sell them very cheap, maybe $50 because I had to take the back off of one of the tweeters. It's fully functional but it needs to go under the factory grills since it's now ugly.