well, I did the center channel upgrade in the best buy parking lot.....definitely a big difference. Tweeters are next.

I do have an extra Infinity Reference 3017CF with a Honda harness and bass blocker for sale now.....$30 shipped. Will post in black market shortly as well.

 

Replacing the dash speakers are very easy. There's really no tearing up the dash. Everything has a cover that pops out where the speaker is attached to it. You will have to do some cutting of plastic and glueing to get the new speakers to fit into the covers, but it's not that bad.

 

Adobe.....you mean you just dropped these tweeters so they are working with the stock 6" mids in the doors ? That can only mean that the crossover between the stock mids and stock tweets must be a passive crossover (aka cap, actually not a crossover at all). From what I understand the stock mids in the doors are actually reproducing the full range, is that right ? If that's the case then there is probably just a frequency cap/filter that keep the low and mid frequencies from reaching the tweeters.

How about the efficiency of the Infinity tweeters ? Do they need more power than the stock tweeters to play at equal volume or is there no difference ?

 

Yes passive, simple crossovers. Per the audio schematics I'v seen stock doors are operating at full frequency. The stock tweeters have a capacitor (single order high pass) glued right to the Tweeter. The Infinity tweeters come with what I believe to be 2nd order xovers. I didn't tear them apart (heat shrunk covered) but it looked like a capacitor and inductor in there. There is plenty of room in the dash under the tweeters for the xovers.

As far as efficiency goes I don't know what the stock ones were rated at. I seem to like the treble still at +/- 0 which is the same as before. The new Boston S35 center is at +1 now, that's up 1 tick.

I've toyed with the idea of making some low pass filters for the door drivers. I'd start simple with a simple air coil inductor (1st order) and target the same frequency Infinity says the 1011t xover is set at. That simple addition will usually clean up the low end quite a bit since the drivers are no longer trying to produce frequencies beyond their useful range. It's just been way to frikin cold in CT lately.

 

Adobe & Crook - do you guys happen to know if the Acura / Honda harness sold on Crutchfield will also fit for the tweeters? I was looking to use that harness for the tweeters, simply so i could go back to OEM if i needed. Also how do you guys plug into the Infinity cross-overs that come with it...do you have any pics of that part?? thanks in advance!

 

No, there is no harness for the tweeters that I know of. Here is what I did. Post 13 of this thread
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...9&postcount=13

I think others just used wire taps on the OE wires but they are very short and it is tough to get in there.

 

It's the wiring I worry about - what the heck is a crossover?

Is this more involved than just connecting 2 wires from the old to the new?Sounds like most are using the Infiniti 1011 for the tweeters......I'm not worried about making then fit right but the wires.....augh....!! I don't do electrical but can I do this?

 

I saw your question about the crossover was answered in the other thread.

The wiring is actually what I thought was the easy part. Most of it is just plug and play with the harnesses and a little soldering except for the tweeters which you have to get a little creative for. Adobeman's explanation is perfect for that. Once you get all the parts you'll see what has to be done. I thought getting everything to fit back in way was trickier especially the door speakers.

 

You did a great job - you guys are my inspiration........I just went out this morning and pulled the tweeters and center so would have an idea of what I was dealing with. (One metal clip in the center went down the dash somewhere - shit)

Those tweeter wires are very very very short..........&*^&*%(

I wonder if I can get any more play from underneath? or if I can find something for that plug. Looks like the other posts have been cutting it off I think.


The crossover thing had me stumped but Kennedy fixed me on that one.

I have to see how these tweets are being wired - now that I kinda know what I'm looking at I'll have to figure out the instructions Adobe has posted.

 

Same thing happened to me when I did the center upgrade. Had to pay $3 at the dealer to get a new one!

Unfortunately there is no play at all in the tweeter wires. I did the pin method and that worked really well as it will just plug into the existing connector and you don't have to worry about doing any soldering in that small space.

 

I popped the cover back on without it - no problem..... but, me being OCD I have to replace it ...... I've talked to Adobe a bit (PM) and we are thinking wire taps would be best for me. I really don't solder and I don't know what the pins and heat shrink things are.....lol

I'll know better what I can handle on my own once the speakers arrive - I might even pay a bit to have a shop wire up the tweeters.

 

The reason I got the clip replaced was because when you screw the new center channel into the cover it fits really snug and kinda bent the plastic enough so that when we put it back in it stuck out on both side, but especially the side without the clip. After getting the clip, it fits much better, but the cover is still bend up a tiny bit on the other side. Maybe we screwed it too tight. I don't know. I'm living with it. It's not that noticable anymore.

 

Just looking for opions about the following - my younger brother stopped by this afternoon - he at least owns a soldering iron.........lol. (Actually he has better wire skills than me and offered his help)

He thinks we can solder and heat shrink an extention to the exisiting stock wires (keeping the plug if I really want to - or just cutting it off)........

Sound about right all you electrical guys?.....LOL

 

Are you asking this for the tweeters? I would use Adobeman's pin solution. I bought a set of the pins at Fry's or you can probably find them at other electronics stores. It was pretty easy to solder the pins to the crossover wire and then it plugs directly into the existing connector. No need to cut it off.

 

Does this sound like the thing I need??

.1" Header Square Straight Wire Pin, 10-Circuit

GC Waldom:
FRYS.com #: 1899410
Molex KK Interconnection System for PC Boards
PN# WMLX-111 Waldom

 

Ok - so I got the new tweeters in the mail...i was taking out the old ones and noticed that it was VERY hard to unplug the OEM Harness plug, before i just break this damn thing off - is there a trick to getting it to unplug?

 

Not sure of the actual description or part number right now. It should look like the picture Adobeman has in post #13. If I can find what I did with the one we bought I'll take a real picture of it and post it.


It shouldn't be that difficult to unplug. Not that it slides right off, but a little force and it should come out.

 

Great thanks - I think you are right - the pins are the way to go. Now I just have to find someplace that has them - there is no Fry's out east here - did manage to find one place on the internet that had exactly what I need in fact they had the same picture of it......but the will only do minimum orders of $50.00....LOL It's a .29 cent item

 

It's kind of locked on - you have to push in on the release wich is part of the speaker piece then release the plug.....hard to describe but look close at the plug and you'll see where it separates from the rest of it. There is a piece you have to push in to release the speaker

 

80 Pin Dual Row Vertical Solder Tail Breakaway Stripeline

Found this on Fry's .com - they don't list the .100 in the description so I am hoping once it arrives it will be ok.

 

Found something at Fry's online - doesn't state the .100 size but at 1.99 I'll give it a try

40 Pin Single Row Vertical Solder Tail Breakaway Stripeline

 

So I did the tweeter swap last night after work. What a breeze - not hard at all, took about 1 hour total and that was only because i was so anal about it. I used wire taps and left the OEM harness plugs in place - so i can always put the original tweeters back if need be. The hardest part of the whole thing was dealing with the fact that Acura gives us about 3 inches of speaker wire to work with...there is VERY little room to work around in there...but was doable.
If anyones is looking to pay a stereo shop to do this - just look at the pictures in this post - very helpful and a very easy install.
The new infinity's sound better, def more clear up front. I dont think these things will blow anyone off their seats - the OEM ones aren't THAT bad...but it is def an imporvement for sure....much more clear...

 

I've read almost every thread I could find about speaker replacements .......... also asked a few questions (Thank you all) and I have learned a lot!!

Tiny Tweeter - Big Ol' Woofer ......

What are your thoughts good or bad - pro or con - about adding dynomat to the door panels once I've replaced the speakers?

Does this stuff make THAT much of a difference and how much do you use? I saw one door someplace here covered top to bottom in it.

The poster also covered the rear deck and inside the trunk and trunk door itself.... Overkill ???

 

1 1081011T Infinity Reference 1011t 1" Textile Dome Tweeters $44.99
Shipping: $6.99
Order Total: $51.98

Go Go Crutchfield. Should see it mid next week

 

HiFi Sound Connection dot com.........

Infinity 1011t Car Audio 1" Component Tweeter Speakers $44.95
Infinity 32.7cf Car Audio 3 1/2" Coaxial Two-Way Speakers $59.95
Infinity 62.7i Car Audio 6 1/2" Coaxial Two-Way Speakers $82.95
Shiipping (UPS Ground): $14.69


I can't wait to get them!

 

Steve, perhaps I could buy your other half of the 3 1/2" two way speaker?

 

Sure I'm open to it lusid.........always willing to help another member. After all the help I have received it's the least I can do. I even have some extra PINs if anyone can't find them and needs them.

lusid - PM me with your email addy and as soon as my order arrives we can split the centers..... 50 - 50 is cool.

 

Question...If the stock center speaker is a 4 Ohm speaker, and the Infinity 32.7 is a 2 Ohm speaker, isn't that going to be harder on the stock amp, having to drive a speaker with a lower impedance? I noticed alot of people on the forum have used the 32.7 as their replacement speaker for the center, and I'm interested in doing the same, as it will match the 62.7's very well, but has anyone had any problems with using the 32.7?

 

Nope 32.7 is fine, the difference in resistance makes the 32.7 produce 3db louder output. This means you don't have to bump up the the CC settings to get the same output.

 

I got some pics taken for a real detailed step by step process, as I was very nervous about just removing the tweeters to begin with, but once I understood what I was dealing with, it was a piece of cake. The hardest part was actually taking out the tweeter from the mount because you had to pry off one of the clips then move to the other clip so it wouldn't slide back into the same clip that you just loosened.

 

If anyone is having trouble finding the PINs like I was here's a pic. I finally found them online at Fry's - it was a little tough because I had no idea what I was looking for.





I bought the single and another package of double - I wsn't sure what would work better for me.

 

hey steve, I sent you a PM, please check it, and reply back to the email address i provided you.

 

I got it bud - still waiting for my speakers to arrive.........once they do we'll take care of ya

 

Well, I just ordered some Infinity 62.7I speakers for my doors and rear deck, along with the 32.7 for the center speaker and the 1011T tweeters. The 1011T tweeters are listed as no longer being available on Crutchfield's website though, nor are they on Infinity's website, unless you manually enter the address for the product information page:

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/p...=US&Region=USA

Anyway, I found an online store that had pretty good prices (better than Crutchfield) and ordered from them. It's www.caraudioimage.com in case anyone else is interested. I'm now off to go look for a good place to get the JL 8" subwoofer that everyone seems to be using to replace the stock subwoofer.

Question though, is the polarity of the wires on the stock speakers clearly identified? If not, which wire is positive / negative on each of the car's speakers. Also, with the exception of the tweeters, are there connectors for sale that will fit the stock connectors on the car? I'm not too fond of the idea of cutting off the factory connectors...

 

These are some closeups of the Tweeter wires..

 

So in reguards to the Pos / Neg, I have no idea. Someone please do tell

 

In a 2005 TL,

Left Tweeter:
Light Green= (+)
Purple= (-)

Right Tweeter:
Blue=(+)
Red=(-)

 

This is just an informative post for those of you who are not using the "pin" method and are wondering how you can tap into the stock tweeter wires without cutting off the harness plug.

I think they call this a "T" tap in the soldering world. I just invented this technique so no one else has seen this before.

The green wire represents the stock tweeter wire and the blue wire represents the wire from the aftermarket tweeter.


Take some wire strippers and adjust their cutting depth so they will only score the wire's insulation and not cut through or make contact with any of the copper strands of stock tweeter wire. Score the insulation by lightly clamping on the wire, turn the cutters 90 degrees and lightly clamp again. Remember, all you need to do is create an indent on the insulation. If your cutter's make contact or indent the copper then you've weakened the wire strand as far as NASA is concerned.
Use the cutters to grip the insulation at the score line, pull slightly on it to break it at the score line and slide it over on the copper wire to expose the strands. In this photo I have exposed far too much copper but I did it this way so you'll see what I"m talking about. You only need to expose approximately 1/8th of an inch.


Slide a small piece of heatshrink on the tweeter wire.


Twist the end of the crossover/tweeter wire around the wire you just exposed. One or two turns or twists is enough.


Solder the joint. The key to a good solder joint is to touch both wires with the soldering tip. Solder will be drawn towards heat so make sure you touch the wires with the iron tip. Count to one, apply the solder to the tip and both wires. Count to 1 as you heat the wires. Don't be afraid t apply the heat. Watch as the solder absorbs into the strands creating a strong cohesive joint pull back your solder and the iron. Your solder joint should shine, if it's dull then you probably had a cold joint or tried to reheat it several times. Keep practicing.


Bend the wire and slide the heatshrink over the joint.



Heat the heatshrink with a flame to seal it up.

 

Question..

I just went to BB and found some of these speakers on display for 30.

3012CF

» 3-1/2" 2-way speakers (pair)
» Plus One+ poly woofer cone with hi-roll rubber surround
» polycarbonate semi-dome tweeter
» power range: 2-25 watts RMS (75 watts peak power)
» frequency response: 85-21,000 Hz
» sensitivity: 90 dB
» top-mount depth: 1-9/16"
» warranty: 1 year


I was wondering if these would are in fact better than the OE CC speakers. Or should I just wait for the 32.7CF's?

 

i would wait, that is what i am doing right now.. If anyone has one center 3 1/2 let me know i will buy.. everyone seems to like the infiniti

Also i purchased the Infiniti 1021t Reference tweeters and will install next week, i have an Acura loaner car today... SO i can't do it

desper